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ANATOLICA.

ANATOLICA;

OR,

THE JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO SOME OF THE
ANCIENT RUINED CITIES

CARIA, PHRYGIA, LYCIA, AND
PISIDIA.

• • ••

• ■

• • •

• "BT'fHfi • * •• •

H.B.M.'s Episc. Consular chaplain, Alexandria.

:• •: /. ;*• •••

• ""•••• • •

Honlion;
GRANT & CO., TURNMILL STREET, E.C.

1874.

LONDON
GRANT AND CO., PRINTERS, TURNMILL STREET, B.C.

• ••#.«(

PREFACE.

Many years ago, when a boy at school, I hap-
pened to receive a copy of Sir C. Fellows's
'* Asia Minor and Lycla." s

Thenceforward it was a dream of my life
to visit the Interesting country therein de-
scribed.

There seemed little prospect of the dream
ever becoming a reality; but circumstances
made me a resident in the East ; and at last
in 1872, during a temporary leave of absence
^ from my post, I was able to accomplish the
long cherished, desire.

It is with some diffidence that I venture to
publish the following account of my journey ;

c30
GO

vi PREFACE.

but it may perhaps contribute something to our
knowledge of a most beautiful and interesting
country, still little known to Europeans, although
so near Europe, and perhaps destined to play
a great part hereafter in the affairs of the
East.

I have tried to describe things faithfully as
I saw them. The brief time I could give to
the journey, and the want of a library of
reference — indeed of all those literary aids
which abound in Europe, but in Egypt exist
not — must be my excuse for any errors or
deficiencies.

Alexandria,

August, 1874.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

On board the Austrian Lloyd's Steamer — Deck Passengers —
Negro Slaves — Slavery in Egypt — The Sporades — Want of
Wood — Sponge Fishery — Leros — Samos — Scio — Mastic^-^
The Gulf of Smyrna — Sanjak Kalesy — Distant View of
Smyrna — Fortress on Mount Fagus — Interior of the City —
Its Climate and Health — Heat — The Imbat — Land Breeze
— Position of Smyrna — Water Supply — Octroi — Exports —
Figs and Raisins — Cemetery at Caravan Bridge — The Meles
— Diana's Bath — Bournabat — Its Gardens — Sunset in the
Plain — Boujah — Camellias at Bournabat — A Greek Drago-
man

CHAPTER II.

Smyrna and Aidin Railway — Aqueducts behind the Castle Hill —
Plain of Boujah — Caravans - Plains of Anatolia — Malarious
Fever — Cholera — Yourouk Shepherds — Kedji Kalesy — The
Cayster — Greek Brigands — Manouli — Aiasolouk — Gateway —
Mosque — Aqueduct — Storks — Changes in the Formation of
the Plain of Ephesus — Instance from Pliny — Port of the
Great Temple — Changes in the Position of the Old City —
Hill of Prion — Street of Tombs — Wild Fennel — Magnesian
Gate — Thermae — Odeum — Theatre — Port of the City of
Ephesus — Earthquake in the Reign of Tiberius— Great Gym-
nasium— Walls of the City and along the Ridge of Coressus
— Monolithic Basin — Stadium — Site of the Temple of Diana
— Its Double Pavement — Pausanias' Account of the Worship
of Artemis — Changes in Name and Position of Ephesus—
Great Quantity of Alluvium deposited by the Cayster —
Harbour of the Old City ruined 24

viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III.

PAGE

Dr. Richard Chandler's Account of the Temple of the Ephesian

Artemis as described by the Ancient Authorities . . .46

CHAPTER IV.

Ravine near the Azizieh Tunnels — Ancient Aqueduct— A Soldier
of the Turkish Contingent in the Crimea — Anecdote of the
Damascus Massacre in 1857— Ravine of the Lethaeus — First
View of the Plain of the Mseander — Mount Messogis— Its
Beauty — Aidin (Tralles) — Cemeteries in the Maeander Valley
— Khan at Nazli — Bazaar at Nazli— The Zeybeks— Zeybek
Robbers— Costume — Our Party — Our Muleteers — Opening in
Mount Messogis — The "Asian Meadow" — Stream and
Bridge of the Maeander — Valley of the Mosynus — Cafe at
Ali Aga Tchiftlik — Formation of the Country— River Ak Soo
(Mosynus) — Chalk Cliffs — Verdure of the Country — Kara Soo
— Its Torrent — Ravines — Khan at Kara Soo — Descent from
the Town — Geera (Aphrodisias) — Walls of the City — Great
Number of Inscriptions — Gateway — Stadium — Temple of
Aphrodite — Agora — Remains of other Temples — Vast Mass
of Ruin — Material — Two fine Sarcophagi — Their present
Use 60

CHAPTER V.

Torrents from Baba Dagh (Mount Cadmus) — Parched District —
Pass of Tcham Beli — Caffinehs in the Mountain Passes —
Tomb of a Muslim Saint — Tcheragh — Cairn — Curious
Custom — Mount Cadmus — Plain of Dawas (Taboe) — View
from Top of Pass — Torrent Bed at Edge of Plain — The
" Stranger's Room " in a Turkish Village — Hospitality of
Turks — Kara Hissar— Dwellings, Furniture, and Food of
Peasantry — Makuf — Kilidja Bolouk — Number and Beauty of
the Children — We lose our Way — Ascent of the Seiteen
Yailas — Volcanic Evidences — Forest — Descent of the Moun-
tain— Cafe at the Mouth of the Bedra Pass — Defeat of the
French Crusaders under Louis VII. in this Pass — Scenery of
the Bedra Pass — Thunderstorm — Plain of Denizli — Town
of Denizli — Khan-^Greek Khanji — Eski Hissar (Laodicea) —
Aqueduct — Benefactors to the Old City— Its fine Wool —
Stadium — Thermae — Gymnasium — Small Theatre —Large
Theatre— Odeum— Sculpture— Destruction of the Antiquities
of Laodicea —Desolation of the City 78

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER VI.

PAGE

Bridge over the Caprus — The Ak Soo (Lycus) — Our Lodging
at Hierapolis (Pambouk Kalesy) — Tree full of Storks' Nests
— View over the Plain of the Lycus — Our Host's Family
— Turkish Women in a better position than Arab Women
— Their Musical Voices — Position of Hierapolis — Effect of
the Petrifying Waters — Watercourses — Deposit of Calc TufF
— The Cascade — Basins in it— Heat of the Water — Its Pro-
perties— Pine Water-vessels — Visit to the Ruins — Bridge
over the Ravine to the West — Mausolea— Rock Tombs —
Street of Tombs — Sarcophagi — Ruins of great Church —
Monument of Stephanus — Other Ruins — Theatre — Great
Source — Its Depth — Deadly Exhalations of Carbonic Acid
Gas — Ancient Accounts of the Plutonium — Strabo — Pliny
— Dion Cussius — Thermae — Gymnasium — Epictetus — Greek
Church suppressed by the Latin Crusaders — Wool of Hierapolis
— Its present Desolation — Return to Smyrna of most of our
Party 97

CHAPTER VII.

Parched District — Bridge over the Lycus — Yourouk Tribe
Emigrating — Shepherd's Bridge — Ravine of the Ak Soo —
Site of Colossse — Barrow— Remains of the Old City — Petri-
fying Streams — Chasm of the Lycus — Explanation of its
Formation — Last Bishop of Colossae — Ride to Khonas —
Beauty of the Country — Village of Khonas — House of
Ibrahim Aga — No Antiquities at Khonas — Beauty of the
Children — Visit of the Villagers — The Kadi — Want of Educa-
tion among the People — Beauty of the Country to the west
of Khonas— The Kazik Pass — Our Escort — Mount Khonas
— Tchukour— Brigands' Place of Ambush — Plain of Karajuk
— Its Rivers — Cibyratic Confederation — Crops— Soil — Irriga-
tion—Geological Formation — Karajuk Bazaar— Khau — Greek
Khanji — Disturbed State of the Country— Arab Servant at
Khan — Ravine and Village of Geunahi — Barren Soil and
Miserable Crops — Eschler Yailas — Desolate Aspect of the
Country — Poverty of the Villagers — Money-lenders — Causes
of Misery in a Turkish Village — Salt Lake of Salda —
Karaatlu — Our Host — His House — Crops — Forests — Care-
lessness in the Management of the Forests— Fires in the
Forests — rOur Evening Meal . . . . . . • 113

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VIII.

PAGE

Rock Carvings at Karaatlu — Dangers of Wealth in Turkey —
The Poppy — Opium — Village of Naoulo — Lake of Yarishli —
View — Inscription over the Village Fountain — Lacina —
Statue near the Lake^Appearance of Country — Beauty of
View over the Lake of Buldour — Village of Yarakeui — The
Villagers — Inscription in the Cemetery — Yasakeui — Rich
Colour of Cliffs and Soil — Buldour — Khan — Our Evening
Meal — Environs of the Town — Guschla — Tchartchin —
Volcanic Formation — Rich Colour of Soil — A Yaila —
Yaraseen — Road through Volcanic Hills to Sparta — Plain
of Sparta — Government Police (Zaptieh) — Pambouk Khan —
Mosque — Greek Schools — Greek not spoken here till quite
lately — An Antique Statue from Cibyra (Horzoom) — How
Sparta was Founded — Its Thriving Appearance — Mines in
the District — Want of Roads — Railroad might easily be
made — We are Summoned before the Governor — Greek
Church — Good Houses— Pretty Situation of the Town — Im-
provement in the Behaviour of the Turks to Christians —
Wealth of People — Climate — Crops — Expense of Transport
— ^Instance — A Railway Projected from Sparta to Adalia —
Bargaining of Orientals — Earthenware Plates , . . 135

CHAPTER IX.

Suburb of Sparta — Pass through Volcanic Hills — Strange Forma-
tion of Strata — Yaila at Foot of Aghlasun Mountains —
Ascent of the Mountain Chain — Fine View from the Summit
— Steepness of the Mountain — Paul Lucas on Ruins of
Sagalassus — Ruined Temple and Fort in the Pass — Village
of Aghlasun — Ravine leading up to the Site of Sagalassus
— Position of the Ancient City — Rock Tombs in Perpendicular
Cliff behind the City — Ruin of a Large Christian Church —
Site of Great Temple — Agora — Portico — Another Temple —
Great variety of Columns — Theatre — Fine Subterranean
Corridor — Architecture and Ornamentation of Buildings —
Thunderstorm — All Antiquities taken by the Government —
Notices of Sagalassus and the Pisidian Race — Their Language
— Government — Arrian's Account of the Capture of Saga-
lassus by Alexander the Great — Strabo's Account of Selge -
Livy's Account of the Expedition of C. Manlius Vulso into
Pisidia — Submission of Sagalassus — Strabo's Notice of the
City 155

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER X.

Page
Cemetery of Aghlasun — Yourouk Tribe Emigrating — Village of

Assarkeui — Ravine of Assarkeui — Stupendous Precipices —
Romantic View of the Mount Taurus Range — Primeval
Forest — We lose our way — Thunderstorm — Descent and
Ascent through the Forest —Arrival at Girmeh (Kremna) —
Our Lodging and Host — Magnificent View of the Valley of
the Kestrus — Ascent to the Old City — Its Position —
Stupendous Precipices — View from the Plateau — Desolate
Aspect of the Country — Thick Forest — Grand Mountain
Ranges and their i'osition — Depth of the Ravine through
which we had come — Zosimus' History of a Blockade of
Kremna — Round Temples— View of Davre — Paved Area —
Site of Agora and Temple — Vast Cisterns — Fluted Columns —
Triumphal Arch — Paved Street — Second Paved Street —
Fortifications of Old City — Seat Quarried in the Rock at
Edge of Precipice — Great Gateway — Mausoleum — Strabo's
Notice of Kremna — Captured by Amyntas — Sandalion —
Kremna made a Roman Colony — Road through the Forest
to Boujak — Our Host — His Opinion about our Journey —
Exactions of Government Officials and Misery of Peasantry —
Plain of Boujak — Native Carts — Aspect of the Country —
Khan at Soosuz — Cafe of Badem Aghadj — Suspicious Com-
pany— Ravine Leading to the Pass of Termessus Minor —
Great Number of Cemeteries — Cretopolis — Village of Beli . 177

CHAPTER XL

Pass of Termessus Minor — Steepness of the Road — Ruins of
the Ancient City and Fort — The Roman Road — Wheelmarks
in the Pavement — Ruins at the Foot of the Pass — The Plain
of Adalia — Its insalubrity — Emigration of its Inhabitants in
Summer — Village of Kovajik — Our Bivouac — Proper Diet for
a Traveller in these Warm Regions — Misery of the Villagers
— Heat — Fleas — Mosquitos — Fever — Want of Water —
Fertility of the Soil — Superior Condition of the Pastoral
Races in Anatolia — Value of Sheep sold in Smyrna by a
Yourouk Chief — Amount of Government Taxes — Aspect of
the Plain of Adalia — Khan of Tchibouk Boghazi — Bridge
over the Duden Soo (Catarractes) — Petrified Deposit on
Surface of Plain — Ateran Cafe — Heat of Plain — Drunken
Greek at Cafe — Lower Plateau on which Adalia stands —
Appearance of Cliff — Deposit like that at Hierapolis— Cause

xii CONTENTS.

PAGE

— Catarractes has flowed in Different Channels — Nedjib
Pasha's Road — Description of Adalia — Old Fortifications —
Port — Wreck of an Egyptian Frigate — Marble Gateway in
Wall — Various Inscriptions — Gateway near the Port — Exports
of Adalia — Notices of Adalia — Attains Philadelphus —
Louis VII. — Magnificent Ranges of Mountains opposite
Adalia — Climax — Solyma — Bey Dagh — Takhtalu Dagh
(Olympus) — Zenicetus the Cilician Pirate — Alexander's
passage under Climax — Heat, and Danger of Malarious
Fever — We are unable to pass through the vSouth of Lycia . 200

CHAPTER XII.

Collection of Antique Medals at Adalia — Heat in the Plain —
Ignorance of the People concerning the Natural Features of
their Country — Kepez Cafe— Bed of Petrified Deposit —
Theory of its Formation — Sarcophagi — Uzumkoyou Cafe —
Ancient Well — Ruins of Aarassus — Deep Torrent Bed —
Almalu Pass — Gulelik Dagh — Hellenic Wall and Forts in the
Pass — Yenijah Khan Cafe — Ascent to the Ruins of Termessus
— Arrian's Account of the Old City — Its Position — Dense
Vegetation — Ancient Paved Road — Two Ancient Guard-
houses— First Wall — Enclosed Ravine leading up to the
Cit}^ — Vast Number of Sarcophagi — Ruins — Spring — Second
Wall across the Ravine — Another Spring — Ruins — Third
WaU — Site of the City — Difficulty of Examining Ruins —
Fourth Wall — Deep Precipices round the Plateau — Paved
Street — Agora — Cisterns — Ruins of other Buildings — Theatre
— View from the City — Desolation of the Place — Thickets of
Wild Roses — Water Supply at the Khan — Alexander's
Attack on Termessus — It submits to Manlius — Strabo's
Notice of it — The Almalu Pass — Solar Heat — Yaila at Head
of Pass — Plain of Almalu — Appearance of Country — Torrent
of Stenez — Descent into the Plain of Karditch — Great
Extent of these Plains — Bivouac of the Villagers of Soosuz —
Misery of the Peasants ........ 220

CHAPTER XIII.

Heat of the Day— Cold of the Night on this Plateau — Yaila —
Desolate Country — Plain of Almalu — Its Sterility — The Over-
shot Mill — Horses break down — Town of Almalu — Position
— Mountains round it — Description of Almalu — Khan —

CONTENTS. Xlll

PACK

Account of Riot at Smyrna — Prejudices of Greeks against
Jews— Our Supper — Osmanlis do not make good Cheese —
Cheapness of Living at Almalu — Petmez — Koshaff — Tahilnn
— Yaourt — Pilaff — A Native Dinner — Temperate Diet of the
People — The Bazaars of Almalu — Costume — Fine Physique
of the People — English and Turkish Crimean Medals — Dress
— Descent — Trade of the Place — A Retail Tradesman —
Mosque of Omar Pasha — Fine Spring — Change of our Route
— Fortunate Escape in Consequence — Brigands attack
Leveesi, Makri, and Kalamaki — This Band afterwards
broken up — Horse Dealing — Cold and Rain — Mount
Massicytus (Ak Dagh) — Deserted Village of Tchobansa —
Alarm of our Muleteer — Description of the Country — Yaila
on the Mountains — Kiziljah Dagh — Rabat Dagh — Douroular
— Yalinli, Deserted Village — Curious Ancient Gateway and
Polygonal Masonry — Heavy Thunderstorm — Lake Caralis —
Souood Gol — Village of Souood — The Stranger's Room —
Heavy Rainfall — Severity of the Climate in Winter — Keep
for the Cattle in Winter — Drainage of the Lake — Fever . 241

CHAPTER XIV.

District of Igneous Rock to West of Lake Caralis — Rich Pastur-
age— Baindir — The Caularis Amnis of Livy — Pastoral Beauty
of this District — Heavy Rain — Plain in Front of Horzoom —
Immense Expanse of Wheat — The River Dollomon — Posi-
tion of Horzoom — The Stranger's Room — Our Host — The
Mudir of Horzoom — Opinion of our Host about our Journey
— His Domestic Arrangements — Polygamy — We Sup with
our Host " alia Turca " — Visit to the Ruins of Cibyra — Poor
Salary of the Mudir — Position of Cibyra — Stadium — Theatre
— Odeum — Ancient Sculptures and Money found there —
The Villagers had used up the Inscribed Stones — A Statue
broken up by them in hope of finding Money inside it —
Strabo's Notice of Cibyra — The Tctrapolis — Military Strength
of Cibyra — Its Kings — The Language of its People — Its
Chief Industry — Polybius' Account of the King Moagetes
and the Roman Consul Manlius — Trade of Cibyra — Ancient
Coin — Igneous District to North of Cibyra — Yussuftcha —
Plain of Karajuk — Violent Storm — Difficulty of Advancing
— Halt at Bedrebey — Miserable Condition of Villagers —
Beautiful Evening — Seasonable Rains — Heavy Taxation of
Villagers — Tobacco Regie at Constantinople — Women

xiv CONTENTS.

PAGE

Unveiled— Bad Accommodation— Hadji Payam — Evgarrah —
The Domou Pass over Boz Dagh — Armed Zeybeks — Grace
and Agility of our Guide — His Sandals — Village of Kilidja —
Sebastopolis— Descent to Uzoumbounar — Varieties of Marble
and Lava — Reception by the Villagers — Difficulties of Travel
in Anatolia — Its Advantages 259

CHAPTER XV.

Plain of Dawas — Head-waters of the Harpasus — Springs in the
River-bed — Return to the Tcham Beli Pass — The armed
Cafejis escort us through the Forest — Attack by Brigands on
the Servants of a French Merchant — Sheikh's Tomb at foot
of the Pass — Extreme Beauty of this Spot — Continued
Descent from the Highlands — Change in the Season and
in the appearance of the Country — Harvest — Aphrodisias —
Descent into the Mosynus Valley — Long Ascent to Kara
Soo— Heat in the Valley of the Mosynus — The Cafe at Ali
Aga Tchiftlik — Exhausted appearance of the People — Site of
Antiocheia ad Mseandrum— Change in the Springs owing to
advance of Summer — Ancient Wells — Vultures — Wooden
Bridge over the Maeander — Tchingannis (Gipsies), the only
People who importuned us for "Bucksheesh" — Turks
superior to Arabs in this respect — Cafe at Nazli — Mocha
Coffee — Use of Coffee among the Turks — Carelessness of
Peasants as to their way of Living — Their wretched Dwellings
— Reason — Lack of Gardens and Vegetables in the Interior
— Neglect of Domestic Matters — Decadence of these Coun-
tries— Their Flourishing State in former Ages — Population —
Art — Luxury — Testimony of Livy on this point — A Change
for the better may be expected — Unpleasant Ride from Nazli
to Aidin — Heat — Camels — Arum Dracunculus — Fertility of
Maeander Valley — Might be much increased — Torrent Beds —
Kiouschk — Heat of Aidin — Khan — Antiquities at Aidin —
Departure for Smyrna — Illness of our Interpreter — Brigandage
in this District — Greek and Zeybek — Malaria in the Plain of
Ephesus — Tourbali (Metropolis) — Heat of Smyrna — Garden
of Cafe — Italian Theatre — Hotel Miiller — Excavations at
Pergamus .......... 282

CHAPTER XVI.

Difficulties of Travel in Anatolia as compared with Syria — Drago-
mans— Supplies — Tent Life — Climate— Malaria — Malarious

CONTENTS. XV

PAGE

Districts — Lycaonia — Beauty of the Country — Mountains —
Antiquities — Sporting— Game — The Tiger — Lion — Panther
— Anecdote of a Panther — Forest — The Woodless District —
Destruction of Forests — Causes — Carelessness of Government
and People — Brigandage — Present State of Country — Govern-
ment tries to maintain Order — Diary of Mr. Colnaghi in
Lycia in 1854 — Excesses caused by Want and Desperation of
Peasantry — Our own Experience — Lefteri, the Brigand of
Bithynia — Feeling of People towards Europeans — Sentiments
of Turks of higher Rank — Change since Crimean War —
Resources of Empire can only be developed by European
Help — Turkish Distrust of Europeans — Anecdote of Abbas
Pasha, Viceroy of Egypt — Treatment of Orientals by Euro-
peans often Unjust — Canal of Suez— Jealousy of European
Employes — Corruption of the Administrations — Publicity
stifled — No Public Opinion — Want of Education among the
Turks — Education among other Races of the Empire —
Ottoman Patriotism — Rayah Patriotism — Discordant Popula-
tions of the Empire — The Ruling Race— Gradual Rise of the
Christian Populations — Comparison of Osmanli with European
— His good Qualities — Often deteriorated by contact with
Europeans — Disadvantages of Agricultural Population —
Heavy Military Expenditure — Provinces sacrificed to Con-
stantinople— Want of Labour and Capital — European Im-
provements a doubtful Benefit to People without a Reform of
Government — Apparently Defenceless State of Constantinople
— Fleet — Comparison of Turkey with Russia — Conquest of
Turkey by Russia dangerous to Europe — Concessions made
to Russia — What is the greatest danger to Ottoman Empire
— Population of Turkey — Polygamy — Plague — Cholera —
Causes of Decline in Population — Decline in some Districts
undoubted ; but in others doubtful ..... 299

CHAPTER XVII.

Old System of Provincial Government — Its Abuses and Advantages
— The Vilayet System — Provincial Medjlis — Representation
— Provincial Government good in Theory — Purchase of Offices
— Reason why Public Works are so Expensive in Turkey —
Instance — Degrees of Offices in Provinces — The Kadis —
Their Authority Declining — Taxation of the Empire — Taxes
on Land — The Dime — Farmers of this Tax — The Vergui —
Mortgages on Land in Turkey — The Kharaj — The Bedeliyeh
— Conscription — Exemption of Christians from Serving in the

Xvi CONTENTS.

PAGE

Army — Professional Money-lenders — Their Dishonesty —
Government Agricultural Banks — Their Failure — Difficulties
of Agriculture in Turkey — Impartiality of the Government in
Matters of Religion — Religious Bigotry generally Diminish-
ing— Syria and Ibrahim Pasha — Conversion of Mohammedans
not to be Lightly Expected — Difficulties in the vi^ay of it —
Different Religious Ideas of Muslim and Christian —
Simplicity of El Islam— Its Inferiority to Christianity —
Sdperscitions Engrafted on Mohammedanism — Muslim has
generally come in contact with a less pure form of Christianity
— Morals of Europeans — Growing Tolerance of Muslemin —
Education of their Children — American Schools in Egypt —
Prospects of the Conversion of Mohammedans to Chris-
tianity 323

APPENDIX.

A. — Mithridatic War and Massacre of Romans in Asia Minor . 347

B. — History of Aphrodisias 348

C. — March of the Consul Manlius against the Gaulish Tribes of

Asia Minor .......... 349

D. — The Lycian Confederation ...... . 352

E. — Cilician Piracy and its suppression by the Romans . • • 353
F. — Ottoman Law — and the sources whence it was derived . . 356

G. — The Pastoral Races of Asia Minor 358

H. — Locusts in some Provinces of the Ottoman Empire . . 359

I. — The Mountain System of Lycia 361

K. — The Famine of 1874 i^ Asia Minor 364

Routes • 370

Time Table 371

General Route 373

CONTENTS. XVU

LIST OF MAPS, PLANS, AND HELIOTYPE, LITHO-
GRAPHIC, AND WOODCUT ILLUSTRATIONS.

General Map and Detailed Map of the Author's Journey
Facing the Title Page.

PAGE

Distant View of the Bay and City of Smyrna . . . ,10—1
Caravan Bridge and Part of the Great Cemetery, Smyrna . . 17 — p

View from the Castle Hill, Aiasolouk, showing the Excavations on
the Site of the Temple of Diana. Prion and Coressus in the
distance. .... ....... 29 — f

The Mosque of Sultan Selim, Aiasolouk, from the East, and the

Plain of the Cayster. 30 — I

Plan of Ephesus . . . . . . . . . .32—'

Laodicea — Remains of the Gymnasium, of the Stadium, and the

Petrified Aqueducts on the right 37 '^'^

Laodicea — General View over the Stadium 39"^^

The Castle and Mosque of Aiasolouk, from the Stadium of Ephe-
sus. Mount Gallesion in the distance . . . . . 41 — f
Specimen of the Section of Chalk Cliffs in the Valley of the

Mosynus 70 —

Sections of the Ascent from the bed of the Mosynus to the Town
of Kara Soo, and of the Grassy Slopes or Terraces in the
Mosynus Valley . . . . . . . . . 72 ""

The Temple of Venus at Aphrodisias (Geera) .... 74 — /

Hierapolis — General View 91-^ ^

Hierapolis in Phrygia and the Petrified Cascade . . . . 99 — (^

Distant View of the Cascade, Hierapolis . ... . . 100--/

Water Vessels (large) made of a section of Pine Tree . . . loi- —
Ruins of a large Christian Church, Hierapolis . . . . . 103— /^

The Theatre at Hierapolis lod — ^

View from the Theatre, Hierapolis, looking S.W. . . . 107- /*

Supposed site of the Plutonium, Hierapolis 108^ ?

Hierapolis — The Thermae ... . . , . . .1 10-^ '

The Theatre at Hierapolis, 346 feet in diameter . . . . 115
Style of Tombstones at Colossoe . . , . . . . 115—

Cairn or Barrow at Colossae . .116

Sarcophagus at Eski Yerrah, near Buldour ..... 144-

Sagalassus 158 —

Rock Tomb Inscription at Sagalassus 161

Xviii CONTENTS.

PAGE

Specimen of Hexagonal Columns and Plinths at Sagalassu^;. . 165^

Curious Architectural Stone at Sagalassus 165

Stones of the Arches of the Ruined Theatre at Sagalassus . . 167
Ornaments on many of the Pedestals, Sagalassus . . . . 169

Rock with round projecting Buttresses in the Assarkeui Ravine . 178^^
PlanofKremna .......... 183^'

Diagram of the bearings of the Ranges of Mountains seen from the

Plateau of Kremna 186

Gatewa) of Kremna ......... 192-^

Ploughs, and Cart-wheel of Solid Wood and an Iron Tire at

Boujak . . . . . . . . . . . 196

Gulelook Dagh, the ancient Termessus . ..... 201 —

Marbles in the Gate of the Port of Adalia 215-^

Sarcophagus at Ariassus . . . . . . . .223^

Ancient Gateway in the Village of Yalinli ..... 225 -^

Greek Shields carved upon the Sarcophagi at Sagalassus . . 227

Spring with pointed Recesses, Termessus ..... 228 '^

Theatre at Termessus, 208 feet in diameter . . . ..231

Theatre of Cibyra — diameter 266 feet 272

The Stadium of Cibyra. ........ 273

FAC-SIMILES OF ANCIENT INSCRIPTIONS, &c.

ANATOLICA.

CHAPTER I.

On board the Austrian Lloyd's Steamer — Deck Passengers — Negro
Slaves — Slavery in Egypt — The Sporades — Want of Wood —
Sponge Fishery — Leros — Samos — Scio — Mastic — The Gulf of
Smyrna — Sanjak Kalesy — Distant View of Smyrna — Fortress on
Mount Pagus — Interior of the City — Its Climate and Health —
Heat — The Imbat — Land Breeze — Position of Smyrna — Water
Supply — Octroi — Exports — Figs and Raisins — Cemetery at
Caravan Bridge — The Meles — Diana's Bath — Boumabat — Its
Gardens — Sunset in the Plain — Boujah — Camellias at Boumabat
— A Greek Dragoman.

On the i6th of April, 1872, I left Alexandria for
Smyrna, by the Austrian Lloyd's steamer Trehi-
sonda. The ship was crowded, so that I had
some difficulty in obtaining a berth.

The annual emigration of Europeans from Egypt
had begun ; for when once the cotton season is
past, little business remains to be transacted, save
an occasional purchase of the Khedive's sugar, or
speculations in the Egyptian funds, and every one
who is able to leave, passes the summer in the
cooler and healthier climate of Europe.

2 ANATOLICA.

Most of the passengers were Greeks, bound
either to the islands or to Constantinople ; there
were a few Russians, but I was the only English
passenger. The scene on board was amusing : a
mountain of baggage, of the most nondescript
character, cumbered the deck; over and around
this, surged a vociferating, gesticulating, strug-
gling crowd — Greek, Turk, Persian, Circassian,
Armenian, Jew, Syrian, Arab, Maltese, &c.

In order to spare expense, the Orientals are
usually deck passengers, and a portion of the
deck is always arranged for their accommodation.

Some of the more fortunate had already secured
snug corners, where on outspread carpets and
" lahafs " they calmly squatted, discussing the
eternal coffee and tchibouque, or amicably feeding
in small family parties, from copper bowls full of
salad, black olives, sardines, salt cheese, yaourt, &c.

From all I have ever heard, the beauty of
Eastern ladies, even of the highest rank, is not
transcendent ; but had the native ladies who were
passengers on board the Trehisonda been beauti-
ful as " houris," they could not have veiled their
charms more carefully from the profane gaze.

Each family had rigged up a kind of extempo-
raneous tent, by tying up pieces of chintz, calico,
cr canvas, from the interstices of which one could
catch at times the flash of a pair of dark eyes, or
a hand of a waxen and unhealthy tint, would be
put forth for a moment ; but during nearly the

ANATOLICA. 3

whole voyage the women sat or slept with exem-
plary patience, seldom quitting their position.

We had on board a number of pilgrims returning
from Mecca, many of whom had purchased, on
their passage through Egypt, negro slaves, both
male and female. I was told at Smyrna that
information of this fact had been sent on by tele-
graph to Constantinople, and that on their arrival
the police would be waiting to arrest them, and
deprive them of their unlawful possessions ; and,
indeed, when afterwards I reached Constantinople
at the end of May, some twenty black female slaves
were taken from our ship by the police authorities.

Whether this would improve the condition of the
slaves themselves is very doubtful — probably for
them it would be only a change of masters ; nor
can much be expected from a few spasmodic
attempts to stop the slave trade at one port,
while it is perfectly legal and unfettered through
out the Empire in general.

I know not how it may be in other parts of the
Ottoman Empire, but in Egypt every Moham-
medan family which is able to afford it keeps
one or more black slaves ; even the Copts and
Syrians, who are Christians, and many of the
Greeks and Levantines, have no scruple in pur-
chasing negresses for domestic service. The traffic
is now somewhat discouraged and obliged to be
carried on in secret, still a negro female ser^'-ant
may be readily purchased for from £20 to ^30.

B 2

4 ANATOLICA.

It is true that invariably domestic slaves are
very kindly treated, and the sale of a slave except
from poverty on one side, or bad conduct on the
other, is considered a disgrace to the owner.

Once in the hands of a master, their lot is
certainly tolerable enough, but the atrocities of the
slave-hunts in Central Africa, and the brutalities
of the " jellabs " (dealers) quite overpower any con-
siderations of this nature ; and now that the con-
science of civilised Europe is aroused, we may
hope that soon this iniquitous traffic will be no
longer tolerated. Perhaps amongst other eventual
benefits to which the Canal of Suez w^ill powerfully
contribute, will be the suppression of the slave
trade in the Red Sea and Persian Gulf.

In justice to the Egyptian authorities, I must,
however say, that they are trying to put down the
sale of slaves gradually. But it is difficult to
effect. The custom of the country, and the reli-
gious feeling of the Muslim, uphold domestic
slavery. Yet if the importation of black slaves
from the Soudan, by the Nile, and by the ports of
the Red Sea, were rigorously interdicted, slavery
would in time come to an end of itself, and the
Egyptian Government, if sincerely desirous of
doing so, could easily effect thus much.

It would be far more difficult to prevent the
sale of white slaves, as this would necessitate an
interference with the domestic affairs of their
subjects, upon which perhaps neither the Sultan

ANATOLICA. 5

nor the Khedive could venture, even supposing
them willing to attempt it.

The expulsion of the Circassians from the Cau-
casus districts in 1863-4 gave an immense impulse
to this traffic, for numbers of that unfortunate
people were obliged to sell their children to save
them from dying of absolute starvation, and many
were purchased by Turks and Egyptians really
more from charity than any other motive.

I recollect seeing, in 1864, two young Circassian
children openly exposed for sale in the Great
Square at Alexandria, and the native crier walking
up and down with them, and soliciting purchasers.
I do not think that this would be tolerated at the
present time.

During the cotton crisis of 1862-6, when Egypt
was gorged with gold, the richer " fellahs " (native
cultivators) began to venture upon the luxury of
Circassian slave-wives ; but it was regarded with
the utmost disfavour by the Turkish authorities,
and I heard of one instance where a very
wealthy Egyptian " fellah " was summoned before
the "Mudir" (governor) of the province, sharply
reproved for his presumption, and deprived of a
white slave-girl whom he had purchased.

So long as the present state of Government and
Society endures at Constantinople, a reform of
this, as of many other abuses, is not to be looked
for.

Our deck passengers did not settle down in

6 ANATOLICA.

their places without many disputes; the arbiter
of their quarrels was a stout, - good-humoured
Greek belonging to the ship, who acted as a
kind of quartermaster-general.

He was a veritable walking polyglot ! and
gradually, either by force of tongue or of arm,
he managed to arrange the motley crowd ; so
that by the time we had lost sight of the low
sand-hills of Egypt, everybody had recovered his
good humour.

Gradually as night drew on, the breeze freshened,
and we had a rough sea with all its unpleasant
concomitants.

Next day the high mountains of Crete appeared,
far away on our left, like a faint cloud upon the
sea, and on the morning of the i8th we were
amongst the group of islands near Rhodes.

Henceforward we had a smooth sea, all the way
to Smyrna, and land always in sight, either the
mainland or some of the islands.

The latter are all volcanic ; rising from the sea
in abrupt, precipitous cliffs, and generally with
bare and lofty peaks of fantastic form ; amongst
them the outline of Episcopi (Telos) is very
remarkable. Though all are savage and sterile
to look on, they contain fertile valleys. Their
formation is mostly Trachytic, in colour of a faint
red, or ash grey, of various shades, over which
sparse olive groves throw a greenish tint.

A few patches of scrub-oak, and scattered pines.

ANATOLICA. 7

are the only forest trees to be found in them,
although thirty or forty years ago many of them
were covered with magnificent forests.

But the ravages of the Greek War of Indepen-
dence, the constant export of firewood and char-
coal, and the careless improvidence of people and
Government alike, have destroyed the wood in
nearly all of them ; and in consequence, the
springs and rivulets are fast drying up, so that
soon many districts in them will become abso-
lutely barren, for want of water.

Although . hot in summer, their climate is re-
markably healthy. Their principal products are
oil, fruits, wine (some of exquisite quality and
unknown in Europe), raki, soap, sponges, and
charcoal. Syme (which we saw far on our right)
and Calymnos are the islands which produce most
sponges, and their people are very skilful divers.
But all the islanders, more or less, pursue this
branch of industry ; some of the more enterprising
even go as far as the coasts of Crete, Syria, and
Barbary. The sponge grows from the rock, in a
rounded, cup-like shape, but covered with a tough
and shiny black skin, under which is an offensive
white liquid, which must be squeezed out to pre-
pare the sponge for market. The best qualities
grow at a depth of thirty fathoms, and I heard at
Smyrna anecdotes of the difficulty and hardship
endured by the divers in bringing them up from
this great depth. Attempts have been made to

8 ANATOLICA.

use the diving-bell in the deep-sea sponge-fishery,
but without much success. The divers take a
heavy weight in their hands, in order to sink
quickly ; they remain from one to two minutes
under water, and are sometimes drawn up insen-
sible, or with the blood oozing from nose or
mouth ; skilful divers will make from eight to ten
descents per day, but after they have reached the
age of thirty-five or forty years, the deep-sea
diving becomes too severe for them, the pressure
upon the heart and lungs being dangerous to life.

Our vessel glided past the long low island of
Stanchio (Cos) ; behind it rose the high mountains
on the mainland, above Boudroum (Halicarnassus) ;
and there being passengers for Leros, we passed
between Leros and Calymnos, and stayed for about
an hour in the little bay of Klidhi. The channel
between the two islands is narrow and fiiU ot
islets, and as we passed between one of these
and Calymnos, it seemed but a stone's throw
from the deck to either side ; but as in all these
volcanic formations, the water close to the land
is of great depth.

The little town of Klidhi appeared to be clean,
and there were many good houses on the heights
round the bay.

After leaving Leros, we passed Patmos on its
eastern side, and at about 3 P.M. reached Samos,
coasting along it near enough to distinguish the
few scattered cottages upon the cliffs on this

ANATOLICA. 9

remote side of the island, and the deep rugged
ravines by which the surface of the land is seamed.

Samos appears richer and better wooded than
any of the islands we had yet seen ; a lofty ridge
of mountains rises in the middle of the island,
and behind them on the mainland we could dis-
tinguish the famous chain of Mycale.

We reached Scio (Chios) late at night, and nothing
could be seen except the lights on shore. Many
of our passengers landed here, for Scio is a very
favourite residence of the Greeks from Egypt, many
of the leading Greek merchants of Alexandria being
natives of the place. About midnight lighters came
alongside bringing barrels of fruit (oranges and
lemons) for Odessa ; also sundry vendors of hand-
knitted stockings, sweetmeats, and gum mastic,
came on board. This gum is obtained by punctur-
ing the stem of a species of lentisk which grows
here, and Scio produces the best quality ; the
Oriental ladies are very fond of chewing it, and
attribute many curious properties to it, but it
is chiefly used to give flavour to raki, a spirit
distilled from grape " must,'' and after preparation
known by the name of mastic. The natives, both
Christian and Muslim, are great lovers of this
spirit. The gum seemed to fetch a high price, but
I noticed that our Greek passengers drove very
hard bargains with the seller.

April 19th. — Soon after daybreak the steamer
entered the estuary of Smyrna. On every side

10 ANATOLIC A.

except the west were ranges of mountains. On our
right rose two peaks of beautiful outline and almost
exactly alike, called " The Two Brothers " (Mount
Corax). All along the south side of the estuary-
extended the range of Mount Pagus ; between its
base and the sea was a level tract beautifully culti-
vated, and full of villages and country houses ; but
I was told that beautiful as this district appeared,
at certain seasons (especially in autumn) the most
deadly malarious fevers prevail in it. The northern
shore of the estuary is flat (evidently formed by the
alluvium of the Hermus, deposited in the course of
ages), and the hills lie much farther back from the
sea. The water is everywhere turbid and full of
shallows, especially opposite the mouth of the
river ; but although centuries back it was predicted
that Smyrna would experience the same fate as
Ephesus, and that its harbour would become an
inland lake, owing to the encroachment of the river
deposits, this result seems as far off" as ever.

About half an hour's steaming from Smyrna, and
on the south side of the estuary, is the fort Sanjak
Kalesy, built in 1656 to defend the city from the
attacks of the Venetians, who had just destroyed
the Turkish fleet in the Hellespont. It stands upon
a low spit of land projecting into the sea, but, as a
defence, it is contemptible.

After passing this point we had our first view of
Smyrna " the lovely," " the crown of Ionia," " the
ornament of Asia," rising from the water's edge

ANATOLICA. 1 1

towards the ridge of Pagus at the back of the
city ; and most picturesque and beautiful was
the scene : the harbour crowded with ships and
steamers of all nations (conspicuous among them
the Austrian ironclad Ltssa], innumerable sailing
boats and caiques darting across the blue water ;
then the line of the Frank city, with many a
brilliantly painted cafe projecting into the sea on
piles ; then, rising gradually to the acclivities of
the Castle hill, the Turkish town with its quaint
wooden houses painted in the brightest colours,
and interspersed with gardens and trees ; many a
white minaret and cupola towering above the low
dwelling houses. Behind and above all, crowning
the summit of the rounded volcanic hill, stands
the old fort with its square towers and battle-
mented walls. Founded by Alexander's greatest
captains, Antigonus and Lysimachus, it has stood
the brunt of many a siege from Byzantine, Turk,
and Christian hosts, till now, dismantled and
ruinous, it is finally abandoned. Conspicuous
also, miles away, dark broad patches of green
mark the burial-places of the city. They are the
groves of cypress trees with which the Muslim
loves to plant his cemeteries, and which are as
fine, though not so extensive, as those of Con-
stantinople.

The head of the estuary is backed by mountains
not high, but exquisite in colour and in shape : on
the north, Manisa Dagh (Sipylus) ; on the south.

12 ANATOLIC A.

Nif Dah (Olympus). In these ranges are two
openings, one due east leading to the plain ot
Nymphi, the other to the south-east leading to
Boujah and Sedikeui. Through the latter passes
the Smyrna and Aidin Railway. Round the head
of the bay are scattered the trees and country
houses of Cordelio, and due east across the rich
plain may be perceived the village retreats of the
Smyrniots, conspicuous among them the dark
towering cypresses and luxuriant gardens of Bour-
nabat.

The vessels in port seemed very far inferior in
number to those in the harbour of Alexandria,
but the export of fruit — the great staple of Smyrna
— had nearly ceased for the season. I found the
Custom-house people very civil ; of course here, as
everywhere else in the East, a little " bucksheesh "
helps matters amazingly ; and I afterwards heard
that the British Consulate had recently been
obliged to complain of the treatment that tra-
vellers sometimes received from the Custom-house
officers. However it may have been, I was treated
very civilly, and my baggage not even examined.
My porter led me to the Hotel d' Europe. Smyrna
is not rich in hotels, and there is not much choice.
This hotel is tolerable, the table is good, but the
rooms inferior.

However beautiful may be the appearance of
Smyrna from the sea, the illusion disappears on
landing. It is immeasurably inferior to Alexandria

ANATOLIC A. 13

as a city. Its streets — or rather lanes — narrow and
without side-walks, paved with uneven, angular
stones, excruciating to feet and ankles after half an
hour's walk over them — its houses old and mean,
few above two stories high, and the upper story
mostly of wood on account of earthquakes — down
the middle of almost every street an open gutter,
or sewer, exhaling the most pestiferous odours —
no gas-lamps, no conveyances, except a dozen or
so of antiquated coaches, made to dislocate the
joints of an unlucky passenger, and so cumbrous
that the narrow streets will not allow two of them
to pass abreast — porters staggering along, under
unconscionable burdens — long strings of laden
camels, obliging the stranger to be on the alert,
if he would escape being crushed, as the stolid
brutes, and yet more stolid drivers, trudge on their
heedless path — Smyrna is evidently a city of the
seventeenth, not of the nineteenth century ! The
eastern quarter of the town is somewhat better,
for it has been built within the last twenty-five
years ; still such is the general character of the
town ; and even in the east end, near the Aidin
Railway Station, I noticed a whole quarter of the
town intersected by fetid, open ditches, full of
stagnant, decomposing water, sufficient to account
for any amount or intensity of fever ! A large
quay is being constructed along the sea front of
this part of the town, by French "concession-
aires,'' and a considerable space of ground will

14 ANATOLIC A.

be reclaimed by this work ; but I was told that
in consequence of some misunderstanding with
the authorities, no provision had been then made
to carry the drains of the city out into the sea.
But since that time the concessionaires have made
openings for the drains through the quay, leaving
the authorities to do the rest. Yet the sanitary
state of Smyrna is said to be good ! To judge
from the evil odours of the place, I cannot imagine
how this can be, and if the drainage be yet further
disarranged the consequences may be most dis-
astrous !

Perhaps those who gave me the information
were like the lover with his mistress, "to her
faults," not " a little," but " very blind."

Add to all this, a perfect stagnation of the air
when the " Imbat " (Ipt/Saivo;) ceases to blow, and
then a heat in the shade of 90 to 95 degrees
Fahrenheit, or even higher, at intervals from May
to September !

" Oh," said the Smyrniots, " but when the Imbat
blows, it is very pleasant." Quite true !

If it were not for the westerly breeze which
sweeps up the gulf nearly every day during the
hot months, and is succeeded by the land breeze
from the cool high lands of the interior almost
every night, Smyrna would be in the summer
perfectly pestilential ; indeed, whenever this life-
giving wind drops for any length of time, the
deadliest malady of the Levant, the so-called

ANATOLIC A. 15

" pernicious fever/' may be looked for. Happily,
nature in part prevents the sad effects of man's
neglect and shortcomings. Yet the advantage of
these cool breezes is to a great extent lost, owing
to the unfortunate position of the city hemmed
in on every side by lofty mountain ranges, and
having most of its streets at right angles to the
sea breeze, so that it cannot enter them directly.
Smyrna has no public promenade, and the single
open spot we could find along the beach was the
garden of a cafe near our hotel ; here the European
residents used to assemble every evening to eat
ices and drink beer. An Italian theatre supplied
amusement. The actors were really good, and
the audience fully appreciated them ; numbers of
ladies attended ; indeed, short of taking the rail-
way to Boujah or Bourn abat, one could find no
other spot in which to enjoy a breath of fresh air.

The water supply of the town is excellent. It
arises partly from the aqueducts behind the Castle
hill, partly from artesian wells, which have suc-
ceeded here admirably, and which are very nume-
rous. The whole geological formation is volcanic,
and there appears to be an immense reservoir of
water, and that of excellent quality, at no great
depth below the surface.

Even the most necessary public works are neg-
lected in Anatolia ; one may say that the Govern-
ment does literally nothing for the public good.
I was told that the octroi duty in Smyrna amounts

1 6 ANATOLIC A.

to more than ;^ 5 0,000 per annum, and that out of
this immense sum little or nothing is spent for the
benefit of the town. Whether any account is taken
of the way in which this great revenue is expended
I cannot tell — it simply disappears without result.
Such, at least, was the information I received.

The exports of Smyrna, consisting chiefly of dry
fruits, opium, cotton, madder root, and carpets of
excellent quality, may amount to between four and
five millions of pounds sterling — the value of the
imports is nearly as much ; but there are no means
of obtaining an accurate calculation. In this, as in
most other matters in this blest land, the rule of
thumb prevails !

The finest figs and raisins are brought from the
district near Aidin. The figs are simply allowed to
remain on the tree until they fall of themselves.
Mats are placed to catch them ; they are then
allowed to dry a little on the mats, then slightly
flattened by hand, and packed in boxes for ex-
portation.

Grapes are allowed to ripen thoroughly, then
carefully plucked, and dipped in a ley made of
water and the ashes of vine wood, with a small
quantity of oil mixed with it (I forget the propor-
tions). The clusters are then dried on mats. The
wood ashes being astringent, cause the skin of the
grape to shrivel up slightly, the oil keeps out the
air in a measure. Raisins thus prepared remain
good for ten or twelve months. If kept longer, the

ANATOLIC A. 17

pulp turns wholly or in part into candy ; some of
the clusters attain to a very great size and weight.

But with all its natural advantages the country
cannot prosper as it should, owing to the extreme
corruption of the authorities. I heard several most
amusing anecdotes concerning this ; but I appre-
hend it is the same all over the Turkish Empire.

But, however unpleasant as a residence Smyrna
itself at times may be, the country round it is a
very terrestrial paradise, and the traditional hos-
pitality of its residents is worthily sustained by
the present generation. The days of the great
Levant Company are over, and the trade of Smyrna
is no longer so exclusively in the hands of our
countrymen as in time past (wider and richer
fields having opened to British enterprise), but
w^orthy representatives of the old stock yet remain
in Smyrna.

Amongst my introductions, I had a letter to
Mr. de C, who most kindly invited me to visit
him at his country-house in Bournabat. Accord-
ingly I accompanied him on the evening of April
19th. The railway to Bournabat is a short line
of six or seven miles only, well managed, the
carriages excellent, the stations handsome. After
traversing the suburbs and gardens of the town,
it crosses the Meles near Caravan Bridge. Here
is the great Turkish cemetery ; a vast grove of
old cypress trees flings a solemn shadow over
this spot. The Turks never willingly disturb their

1 8 ANATOLIC A.

cemeteries, nor will they bury twice over in the
same ground; and as they always plant trees
round the graves of their friends, the cemeteries
in Anatolia are very beautiful and picturesque.
Especially is this the case in the valley of the
Maeander. There, one may see in them trees
many centuries old growing as nature permits.

The Meles flows in a deep bed along the edge
of the Cemetery, and the floods of the past winter
had carried away a large portion of the wall that
faces the stream ; but even thus early in the sum-
mer it was but a muddy, scanty brook. Beyond
the Cemetery the line passes through a marshy
tract, and here the trains always go slowly. A
deep and slowly flowing brook forms the marsh.
Its source, which is a warm spring under the hills
to the right, is called by the Smyrniots " Diana's
Bath." The soil round this source is fertile, but
owing to malaria few country houses are built
there. I had no opportunity of visiting it. The
marsh, full of tall canes, is dangerous ; not long
before my arrival a gentleman of Smyrna, who
had entered it to shoot ducks, miserably perished,
smothered in the tenacious mud.

The plain through which we passed was in
splendid cultivation, and many English trees
thrive in this fertile district, which seems to
yield the products both of a temperate and of a
semi-tropical clime. I noticed the alder, willow,
apple, pear, and blackberry. The olive trees

ANATOLIC A. 19

were extremely fine, but most remarkable was
the colour of the poppies ; seen in masses they
appeared now of the deepest crimson, now of the
most resplendent scarlet. Mixed with the rich
blue and yellow of other flowers, and set upon a
ground of greenest turf — for the sun has not yet
scorched up the spring herbage — they display the
tints of those brilliantly varied carpets which the
Oriental workman weaves in such perfection.

Arrived at the terminus, a few minutes' walk
brought us to my friend's hospitable house, where
I was introduced to his family, and after a short
rest we walked out to see the village. Bournabat
is a large, straggling place, consisting mostly of
country houses ; abundant streams of water flow
down every road ; but the great beauty of Bourna-
bat is its verdure. The gardens, mostly enclosed
by high walls, are full of magnificent trees. The
orange groves are very gardens of the Hesperides ;
ripe golden fruit hangs on the same tree side
by side with the blossoms and green oranges of
the present season ; everything was bursting into
bloom ; the air was laden with fragrance, in which
the scent of white acacia and orange blossom was
predominant. From this deep and well watered
soil the cypress towers to an astonishing height,
in a tapering pyramid of dark green foliage.

Amongst the many beautiful gardens that I

saw was one that had belonged to the late Mr.

Whittal.

c 2

20 ANATOLICA.

The Sultan when he came to Smyrna paid a
visit to this place, and expressed great admiration
of it. Certainly the trees are very beautiful ; but
can so much water and vegetation be good for
health in this southern climate ? Yet the residents
at Bournabat make no complaint on that point.

The next garden I saw was that of Mr. E., an
old resident of Smyrna, a British subject, but
speaking only French. His garden, in which he
takes great interest, is rich in rare plants and
trees, but it has not been laid out many years.
His house is very beautiful and fitted up in
exquisite taste ; while, a rare occurrence in the
Levant, he possesses a magnificent library, of
which one very interesting portion is a collection
of all the travels made in the Levant, especially
during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
He received us most courteously, and showed me
several very rare and valuable books ; but as he
was about to leave next day for Europe, I had no
opportunity for further examination.

The last house we visited was that of the Misses
W. Here I was amused at the number and
tameness of the swallows, which had built their
nests in every corner of the portico and covered
terrace.

And now, as day began to wane, a prospect
opened enchanting to eyes that had for years
gazed only on the flat, tame expanse of the Delta,
or the dreary sand-dunes of Alexandria. The

ANATOLICA. 21

plain, tilled like a garden, lay below; opposite
spread the dense groves which mark the Springs
of Bounarbashi. The distant city, and the port,
with its mass of shipping, and beyond them the
graceful mountains on the southern edge of the
gulf, all blue and silver in the clear evening air,
could be just distinguished.

Then as the sun declined, amid orange and
crimson-burnished clouds, towards the west, the
colours of the plain and mountains gradually
altered : the bright gold on the ridges of Sipylus
and Olympus changed to the tenderest rose-tint, to
be succeeded shortly by the deepest, fullest purple ;
then, as evening still drew on, faint green, and grey
prevailed — till, one by one, the stars struggled
forth, like diamonds set in ultramarine, the cool
land breeze began to sigh amidst the waving
branches, and night, "quae colores abstrahit rebus,''
veiled earth's beauties from our gaze.

Such was my first evening in this lovely land !

April 2oth.— Returned to town and called upon
the gentlemen who were to form our party. At
Miiller's Hotel I found a gentleman of Dresden,
Mr. Seiif, who, like myself, was desirous of making
a more extensive journey into the interior, but
hitherto had been unable to find any one who could
accompany him. We agreed to make the expe-
dition together, and I was most fortunate in finding
so pleasant a companion.

In the afternoon I paid a visit to Boujah. This

22 ANATOLICA.

village has not the beautiful gardens of Bournabat,
but it is higher in position, and, I should imagine,
healthier. I called upon the missionaries of the
Church Missionary Society, who had come out to
their summer quarters. It was in this village that
Lord Byron stayed whilst visiting Smyrna. The
house he occupied is shown.

April 2 1 St. — A very hot and oppressive day, the
sun extremely powerful, and not a breath of wind.
I spent the day with my kind friends at Bournabat.
In the village is a pretty little chapel, built by the
late Mr. Whittal ; but owing to the heat the con-
gregation was not numerous.

In a greenhouse belonging to one of the British
merchants (Mr. P.) there was a number of the
finest camellias I ever saw, planted in large tubs.
They were from eight to twelve feet in height, and
covered with hundreds (literally) of flowers, the
beauty and variety of which were truly admirable !
They had been purchased of the late Consul-
General of France.

April 22nd. — Engaged in making preparations
for a start next day. I sent a telegram to our
friend at Aidin, begging him to find us an inter-
preter, and in about an hour and a half he replied
that he had found one. Later in the day, a Greek
of Smyrna, who spoke Italian and Turkish, came
to offer his services, but I could not help laughing
when he seriously told me that we should " require
an armed escort when we left Aidin." Even had

ANATOLICA. 23

we not already engaged an interpreter, this obser-
vation would have decided me against engaging
him.

There is a very good German "Bier-haus'*
(Lohmann's) on the Marina. Here we met to make
the final arrangements. Mr. S. and myself agreed
to start on the morrow, so as to visit the ruins of
Ephesus, and our friends were to join us at
Aiasolouk on the day after.

My stay at Smyrna was so brief, and my time so
fully occupied, that I was unable to visit the many
objects of interest in the neighbourhood, and when
we returned from the interior the heat was too
great, and I myself too fatigued, for sight seeing.

CHAPTER II.

Smyrna and Aidin Railway — Aqueducts behind the Castle Hill —
Plain of Boujah — Caravans— Plains of Anatolia — Malarious Fever
— Cholera — Yourouk Shepherds — Kedji Kalesy — The Cayster —
Greek Brigands — Manouli — Aiasolouk — Gateway — Mosque —
Aqueduct — Storks — Changes in the Formation of the Plain of
Ephesus — Instance from Pliny — Port of the Great Temple —
Changes in the Position of the Old City — Hill of Prion — Street
of Tombs — Wild Fennel — Magnesian Gate — Thermae — Odeum
— Theatre — Port of the City of Ephesus — Earthquake in the Reign
of Tiberius — Great Gymnasium — Walls of the City and along the
Ridge of Coressus — Monolithic Basin — Stadium — Site of the
Temple of Diana — Its Double Pavement — Pausanias' Account of
the Worship of Artemis — Changes in Name and Position of
Ephesus— Great Quantity of Alluvium deposited by the Cayster
— Harbour of the Old City ruined.

April 23rd. — We left Smyrna for Aiasolouk. The
railway passes round the base of Mount Pagus,
through some deep cuttings in the volcanic rock,
and enters the plain of Boujah. It crosses the Meles
near the Great Cemetery, where, overshadowed
by gloomy cypresses, sleep generations of Muslim
dead. The deep ravine through which the stream
runs is spanned by two fine aqueducts, both appa-
rently in ruin,* although at the time of Dr. Chandler's

* I am told that both are still serviceable. The lower is one of the
very few public works constructed by the Turks. It was built in
1674-5, together with the Bazaars and various other public buildings,
by the Grand Vizier, Ahmet Kiuprili. To supply materials for these
works, the City Wall and the Theatre (the scene of Polycarp's martyr-
dom) were demolished.

ANATOLICA. 25

visit in 1764 the lower of the two supplied Smyrna
with water. The Meles, almost dried up in summer,
is subject in winter to sudden inundations, which
cause great damage, and its water, muddy and
unwholesome, hardly deserves the praise Pausanias
bestows upon it, of being the finest stream the
Smyrniots possess. Beyond Boujah, is the large
village of Sedikeui, with a magnificent grove of
cypresses near it. Here the plain, which is only in
part under culture, begins to open, and its dark red
soil is evidently very fertile. Patches of vineyard,
broad fields of wheat, tracts of marsh land covered
with rank vegetation, succeed each other. The
slopes of the hills are grey with olive groves, on
every side rise steep and lofty ranges of moun-
tains, and the plain runs up into far-away nooks
and corners amidst them, till in the extreme
distance all blends together in the blue hazy
atmosphere.

Long trains of laden camels passed continually
on their way towards Smyrna. They moved slowly
along in single file, often 200 to 300 (or more) in
number, and each sub-division of these large cara-
vans was headed by a donkey. The camel ot
Anatolia is a cross from the Bactrian breed, better
adapted for the passage of mountains than the
Egyptian camel. He is larger, and has long bushy
hair down the front of the throat. At the village
of Devlikeui, we were opposite Alaman Dagh
(Mount Galesion), a finely-wooded mountain range,

26 ANATOLICA.

and here the plain was covered with patches of
poppies of the most brilliant crimson, mixed with
bright yellow flowers. Indeed, everywhere the
colour of the flowers is most brilliant. At Khias, tor
instance, was a large pond, covered with tall flags,
that presented a mass of the richest yellow.

The plains in this part of Anatolia seem, at some
remote age, to have formed the bottoms of lakes ;
for many miles together they are perfectly level,
and the mountains rise abruptly from them, as it
their soil had been deposited gradually. Though
not half of the land is cultivated, this rich district
might become, under better auspices, a perfect
garden, such as no doubt it once was.

Already the heat is intense, and the plain being
quite bare of trees, the flocks were lying under the
shelter of huge sheds ; in one of these hung the
shepherd's rough felt overcoat (kepen^k), thick as a
board and proof against wind and weather.

Near Tourbali, the station for Baindir, groves of
fine oak and ash cover the plain, and there is a
beautiful view of the western portion of Mount
Messogis, over which passed the old caravan road,
from Smyrna to Aidin.

Here one of the Englishmen employed on the
railway entered our carriage. He told us that
thirteen or fourteen years before, malarious fever
was very prevalent in that neighbourhood, but that
it had now much diminished, owing to the great
spread of cultivation. It was always most virulent

ANATOLIC A. 27

when land was first ploughed up, but though weak-
ening, it was not usually very fatal. (Upon this
point, however, I have heard a different opinion.)
At the Azizieh station, where he lived, a place some
1,400 feet above the sea level and very healthy,
cholera had appeared in 1866 and had proved most
fatal. Eighteen of the English employes had died.
It is true many of them were not of sober habits,
but the disease was equally fatal to the Greeks, who
were a temperate race. No local reason could be
assigned for the appearance of the epidemic ; the
village was clean, the houses well kept and not
crowded, and both air and water seemed perfectly
pure ; but a case of contagion was established. A
Turk, residing at Azizieh, had bought in Scala
Nova the coat of a man who had died of cholera ;
on his return home he also sickened and died. The
Aga of Azizieh caused the man's clothing to be
burnt, but this had not prevented the spread of the
disease.

On our inquiring if any antiquities had been
discovered here, he said that while engaged in
making a cutting near Tourbali he had found a
large building, several feet underground, with a
fine gateway, over which was a long Greek inscrip-
tion in perfect preservation, but he could not say if
the latter had been saved. This may have been an
inn or a guard-house on the road between Smyrna
and Ephesus.

On all sides were large herds of cattle and flocks

2 8 ANATOLIC A.

of sheep and goats, the property of the Yourouk*
shepherds. These men come down into the plains
for pasturage in the spring, but in the rainy season
they are obliged to withdraw from the lowlands, in
consequence of the inundation of the rivers, which
turns all these plains into marshes. During the hot
months they live in the mountains, as the plains
become most unhealthy after the end of May.

The Yourouks seem to be one of the original
races of the land, not of Turkish descent, although
speaking the Turkish language. They are physically
a fine race, generally well disposed and hospit-
able, professedly Muslim in religion, but, like the
Bedouins, somewhat lax in their practice, and not
supposed to be very orthodox in their belief. At
intervals along the line were groups of their black
goat's-hair tents, and many of their burial-places —
strange, solitary little spots, each grave marked
by a lichen-covered stone, but with no further
record or memorial of the dead. The railway here
passes under the stupendous rock-precipices of
Alaman Dagh (Mount Galesion). High above, on a
precipitous peak of the mountain, stands the Kedji
Kalesy (Groat's Fort), supposed to have been one
of the ancient Persian watch-towers. The rail-
road passes close under it, and alongside the
rapid and turbid stream of the Cayster, now much
swollen by the late rains. After crossing the

* From the Turkish "yurumek," to march, or walk.

Co %

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ANATOLIC A. 29

river we saw on the left a fine old bridge of four
arches ; the sea was on our right, about five miles
distant, and a wide, marshy plain bordered the
river. The pools were full of beautiful water-lilies,
and high above us in the air flocks of vultures and
eagles soared and wheeled.

Any of the waste land we had passed through
may be rented of the Turkish Government on con-
dition of paying a tenth of the produce. But even
these easy terms do not seem to attract cultivators.

In this district brigandage had for the moment
been entirely suppressed. About two years ago a
band of seven Greek brigands from the islands,
with their chief, Manouli, were killed by the
Turkish troops, after a desperate resistance, and
their heads sent to Smyrna.

At mid-day the train arrived at Aiasolouk. The
restaurant at the station is kept by an Englishman.
After engaging horses and a guide from him, we
started to explore the ruins. The Turkish village
of Aiasolouk is on the sides and round the base of
a rocky hill, resembling the hill of Ephesus (Prion),
but inferior in height. It seems to have been built
entirely of materials from Ephesus, and was a place
of some importance under the Seljook rulers of
this country (about A.D. 1300). It contained neither
theatre, stadium, nor temple. The fort on the
summit of the hill resembles the fort of Smyrna,
but contains nothing of any interest. It is
surrounded by heaps ot stones and pieces of

30 ANATOLICA.

marble. A line of wall once encompassed the
crown of the hill, and in this is the Great Gateway.
Materials of every kind have been employed in it
pele mele — blocks of marble and limestone, frag-
ments of columns, architraves, friezes, bases, &c.,
built in as each came to hand. Many fragments of
inscriptions, some in good condition, are inserted
in the masonry. Some of the antique sculptures
above the Gateway, mentioned by Dr. Chandler,
were removed some years ago, but there are still
several bas-reliefs in various parts of the Gateway
and buttresses, principally taken from sarcophagi,
and of a declining style of art. Masses of brickwork
lower down the hill perhaps mark the site of Justi-
nian's Church of St. John. The Mosque, though
now disused and in ruin, is still very interesting.
Its west front, facing the hill of Ephesus, is of
polished blocks of white marble. These, without
doubt, were brought from the ruins of Diana's
Temple, the site of which, as discovered by Mr.
Wood, is near the foot of the hill, and at no great
distance. The rest of the building is of limestone.
The roof, surmounted by two cupolas, is supported
by four large monolithic columns of granite —
brought, as Mr. Wood thinks, from the Great
Gymnasium near the City Port — and many smaller
granite columns lie within the court of the Mosque.
Round the doors and windows fine arabesques and
sentences from the Koran are carved in the pure
white marble. Round the interior of the court a

ANATOLICA. 31

marble portico once stood, and in the centre the
usual basin for ablution before prayer ; but the whole
is much overgrown with bushes and vegetation.

The Aqueduct, which enters the plain from the
hills on the north-east, is constructed of marble
blocks from Ephesus. It consists of huge square
piers, surmounted by heavy arches of brick. The
materials of the piers are of the strangest descrip-
tion— cornices, columns, bases, capitals, plain and
inscribed blocks, all built in together at random.

Many of the arches have fallen, and on the top
of nearly every pier, and in most of the trees
around, storks have built their nests.

The gentleness of the Osmanlis to animals — so
different from the Arabs — is an amiable feature in
their character; amongst them the traveller never
sees the shocking sights which so often excite his
disgust in Egypt — and perhaps of all animals the
stork is their favourite. His tameness is very
remarkable ; often I have approached within twenty
paces of these birds, and they have shown no sign
of fear, but simply stalked off in the most leisurely
way a few yards, and then turned to look at me.
It was apparently the breeding season, and one of
the birds was always on the nest ; the other either
stood near, resting motionless on one leg, or heavily
flying, brought food for his mate ; each time he
returned to the nest, both birds threw back their
heads upon their backs and made a loud clapping
with their beaks.

2,2 ANATOLICA.

We rode as far as the hill (Pactyas) behind
Aiasolouk whence the Aqueduct emerges. A small
brook descends from the hills close by, and this
perhaps was the chief source of supply; but no
water now flows from it towards the Aqueduct.

From the foot of the hill of Aiasolouk the marshy
plain of the Cayster extends without interruption
to the sea. On the north the offsets of Galesus
bound it, and on the south the long ridge of
Coressus. Immediately in front and projecting
into the plain is the hill of Prion — the site of
ancient Ephesus. As seen from a distance it
appears nearly circular in shape, of no great
elevation, and with rocky and precipitous sides.
A deep ravine separates it on the south from
Coressus.

The whole plain seems to have been once a great
inlet of the sea which has been gradually filled
up by the alluvial deposit of the Cayster. This is
in some places fully twenty feet in depth, and even
more on the site of the Great Temple. The same
process has been going on for ages along the
coast line of Anatolia, and especially at the mouths
of the Hermus, Cayster, and Mseander. Pliny
(ii. 29) mentions the vast quantity of silt brought
down by the Cayster and its many tributaries, and
says that even in his own time an island at the
mouth of the river, called Syrie, had been joined to
the mainland in consequence. He also states that
anciently — (perhaps at the time when the Ionian

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ft. '/ **

ANATOLIC A. 33

settlers under Androclus arrivedj — the sea extended
past the north side of Prion up to the very foot
of the Great Temple. Even till the decline of the
city and shrine, an elaborate system of canals and
basins continued to maintain the communication
between the Temple and the sea.

It was upon the west and north-west sides of
Prion that the Ephesus of the victorious lonians
was established, and this continued to be the site
of the city, until the powerful kings of Lydia forced
the citizens to quit the height of Prion and settle in
the level ground around the Temple. From the
reign of Crcesus to the partition of Alexander's
Empire, Ephesus consisted of the Temple and the
city which thus grew up around it ; but Lysimachus
compelled the citizens to return to the former site,
and to this era belongs the construction of the
Theatre, the Stadium, and the long wall which,
passing along the ridge of Coressus, is connected at
either extremity with the walls upon the top and
round the sides of Prion. The limited time at our
command did not permit us to examine the whole
surface of the hill ; but we visited some of the vast
marble quarries with which its sides are honey-
combed, and from which the materials for the city
and Temple were hewn. One of the largest is
the scene of the legend of the " Seven Sleepers."
Vitruvius gives an account of the discovery of
marble on a mountain, by the shepherd Pixodarus,
but without mentioning the name of the mountain.

34 ANATOLICA.

In almost every direction traces of buildings and
foundations of walls are to be seen. • ^

A street bordered with tombs and sarcophagi
passed round the east and north-east sides of the
base of the hill. Much of this street has been
excavated by Mr. Wood, and a number of inscrip-
tions, some very perfect, have been discovered.
This street is considerably above the general
level of the plain, and along it ran the famous
portico of Damianus, of which remains continu-
ally occur. Never in any place have I seen such
rank vegetation. The site of the old city was
entirely overgrown with wild fennel ; the sides of
Prion were covered with its bright yellow flowers,
and stalks of it as thick as the wrist often rose
higher than our heads as we sat on horseback.

At the south-east portion of the hill, we entered
the ravine between Prion and Coressus. The street
of tombs here turns sharply to the right, and passes
through the Magnesian Gate ; another road from
the east, bordered like the former with tombs and
sarcophagi, also enters the gate here. The gate
itself seems to have been blocked up at some time,
either wholly or in part, with masonry. To the
right of it, and lying a little back from the road,
are the ruins of the Thermae, a huge building of
solid and heavy construction, but not beautiful ;
beyond this the ravine opens to its greatest width.
Most of the private houses of the city seem to have
been built on the north slope of Coressus facing

ANATOLICA. 35

Prion ; their foundations may be traced over all
this space; the public buildings of the city stood
along the bottom of the ravine.

A little past the Thermae, on the right, is the
Odeum — which must have been a very beautiful
building — constructed of extremely white and fine-
grained marble. Many of the rows of seats still
remain in sztu, and amid the heap of broken
columns and marble fragments, are a few pieces of
sculpture, and many columns of finely-polished red
and grey granite.

Between the Odeum and the City Gate is a large
basilica ; and two round monuments, probably fu-
nereal, to the left of the path and nearer Coressus.
Beyond the Odeum are ruins of public buildings
on every side. Then at the south-west entrance of
the ravine, and just as the path turns to the right,
are the ruins of the Gymnasium ; of this all that
remains are fragments of its huge walls, once
covered with plaques of marble, as appears from
the apertures pierced to receive the fastenings of
the slabs.

The ruins of the Temple of Claudius lie close to
the Gymnasium. At last, on the west side of the
hill, we came to the famous Theatre. It is of
immense size — nearly 500 feet in exterior diameter
(Wood),* and the rows of seats rise against the side

* Mr. Cockerell (Leake's "Asia Minor") makes it 660 feet — a
discrepancy too great to reconcile. Herr Adler {vide Prof. Curtius'
** Beitrage zur topographie Klein Asiens ") makes it ** over 200
metres." It is strange their estimates should differ so greatly.

D 2

36 ANATOLICA.

of the hill at a somewhat steep angle far above ;
but from their ruinous condition- it is not possible
to ascertain their number.

The substructions of the scena still remain com-
paratively entire, but it is not possible to penetrate
far into the vaults below the proscenium, owing to
the fallen blocks and rubbish. A large portions
seems to have been attached to it. Part of the
scena is still erect, but most of it has fallen ; some
of the marble columns still stand in their places,
but broken off; they are of a fine mottled marble,
red and greenish in colour. All the statuary, bas-
reliefs, &c., appear to have been carefully de-
molished, but much must still exist, buried under
the vast heap of ruin which covers the orchestra
and proscenium. Fragments of inscriptions lie
about. Near the entrance the following was rudely
scratched upon a column : —

e V cr e p w p p a (t i\ e w v

It is not easy to account for the utter and con-
fused ruin presented by the Odeum and Theatre.
Blocks and broken columns, portions of the edifice
the most dissimilar, are mixed in one promiscuous
heap. War and fire, but above all earthquakes,
have been the causes of this destruction. For many
centuries these buildings have been quarries, fi-om
which successive generations have drawn materials
for their grandest edifices, and an abundance still

ANATOLICA. 37

remains ! But we searched in vain for a perfect
inscription, or an unbroken piece of statuary ! It
would be difficult to imagine a more utter destruc-
tion ! The view from the Theatre towards the west
is very grand ; the plain extends for many miles in
an unbroken level towards the sea, but all lonely
and uncultivated or covered with thick marsh
vegetation ; on either side the graceful outlines of
the mountains form a background superior to any
scene painting !

The wide space extending from the west foot of
Prion to the edge of the marsh is full of vast ruins,
whose construction dates from the first and second
centuries of our era. According to the opinion of
Herr Adler the sea once covered all this space, so
that the City Port was at one time close under the
Great Theatre. But the terrible earthquake, which
in the third year of Tiberius destroyed twelve great
cities* of Asia Minor, probably caused the sea to
retire, so that all this wide space was left dry, and,
during the reigns of Tiberius and Claudius, was
used as a site for the great public buildings, whose
ruins still encumber it. Amongst them are the

* Tacit, Ann. ii. 47. The historian does not mention Ephesiis
especially amongst the cities which suffered by this calamity. But it
must have been a fearful visitation. "It happened in the night time.
Vast mountains sank down — tracts of ground hitherto level were lifted
up into heights — the earth clave — eruptions of fire burst forth," Sec.

The west coast of Anatolia has been always subject to earthquakes.
But see a curious statement (Tacit. Ann. iv. 55) by the citizens of
Halicamassus, that for 1,200 (1) years past no earthquake had troubled
them : Pergamus in like manner.

38 ANATOLIC A.

Forum, immediately m front of the Theatre, and a
little further to the north-west' the very extensive
ruins of the Great Gymnasium. This was erected
on substructions of huge arched vaults. The walls
are of rough marble blocks, the roofing of solid
brick-vaulted arches, after the Roman style. The
roofing of the central hall was supported by a
number of granite columns of colossal size ; four of
these now stand in the Mosque of Aiasolouk. In
general style and massiveness this building re-
sembles the baths of Caracalla at Rome.

Beyond it are the massy walls of the town,
skirting the harbour, and running northwards, and
eastwards along the north side of Prion.

The port, once connected with the sea by a canal,
is now a morass, thickly overgrown with canes and
marsh plants. The whole circuit of the harbour on
the city side seems to have been surrounded by
strong walls ; another wall connected these with the
fort at the west extremity of Coressus (erroneously
called St. Paul's prison), and from this may be
traced the wall of Lysimachus (or perhaps of a
yet earlier builder), running along the ridge of
Coressus, and descending its eastern slope, opposite
the Magnesian Gate, the whole forming a vast
circuit of strong defences.

To the north of the Theatre is a fine monolithic
basin (erroneously called the Baptistry of St.
John). It is of a dull, reddish marble, about fifteen
feet in diameter. It may have been the fountain of

w
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ANATOLICA. 39

one of the public places in the city, and afterwards
used as a baptismal font. At the Convent of Bel
Paese, in Cyprus, is a magnificent monolithic
fountain of the age of Trajan, which was used
throughout the middle ages as a baptismal font.
The same may have happened to this Ephesian
basin.

At the north-west corner of Prion is the Stadium,
like the Theatre, the work of Lysimachus. It is
about 850 feet* in length. Its north side rests upon
vast arches, its south side is hollowed from the hill,
but nearly all its rows of seats have been removed.
A little beyond the Stadium, to the east, is a long
range of immense arched vaults of Roman work,
either the substructions of some building that has
perished, or, perhaps, public granaries, stores, &c.,
which may have been connected with the canal
that led to the Temple.

Beyond these another street of tombs, similar to
that on the east side, borders the base of the hill.

The site of the old city is very grand and
beautiful, and it is of vast extent, although the air
is so clear that distances which are really great
seem small. Of this we had constant experience in
the course of our journey. But Ephesus is now a

* This is the measurement kindly communicated by Mr. "Wood.
Chandler made it 687 feet. He may, perhaps, have transposed the
first two figures in his note-book. Adler makes it 229^ metres (about
755 feet). — Vide Professor Curtius' " Beitrage zur topographic
Klein Asiens."

40 ANATOLICA.

very nest of fever and malaria, lonely, waste, and
dangerous. Its magnificent ruins, the very mass
of fine white and coloured marbles still remaining
after so much spoliation, attest its former grandeur;
but now only a few poverty-stricken peasants
cultivate a patch here and there over its buried
palaces and temples.

We had been advised to avoid exposure to the
night air, and therefore retired early. Our host was
very attentive, and we were tolerably comfortable.

April 24th. — We called upon Mr. Wood. He
could not show us the marbles last excavated, as
his assistant was absent with the key of the
magazine.

We examined his plan of the ruins. He thought
that the central hill was Coressus, and not Prion —
partly on account of the name,* for the central hill
is rounded, the other serrated [Trplcu, "to saw"),
and he had also found in the Great Theatre an
inscription, stating that certain images dedicated
to Artemis were taken from the Great Temple,
carried round the Coressian hill, and replaced
in the Temple, and this would most naturally be
the central hill. He thought that a very large

* But the real name of the cent'-al hill is uncertain. It is called
indiscriminately, Pion, Preon, or Prion ; so that no valid argument can
be founded on the meaning of its name. Pausanias constantly names
it Pion, but in various inscriptions it is called Preon (Upriuv). The
former name may have been given on account of the fertility of its
soil ; the latter, from its position, as a hill projecting into the plain.

ANATOLICA. 41

portion of the old city was built on the northern
slope of the other hill. Indeed, both this and
the slopes of all the mountains round are full
of foundations of houses and remains of buildings.
He considered the most remarkable remains to
be those of the old Greek wall which ran up
the side and along the ridge of (his) Prion,
enclosing the fort to the west (St. Paul's prison).
This wall, he thought, was of old Greek work,
earlier than the age of Lysimachus. It extended
to the harbour at the south-west corner of the city,
and he had traced it to the gate near the Stadium,
and onward to the Magnesian Gate. The Temple
had two pavements, the upper supported by massy
columns, thus forming a crypt, from ten to twelve
feet high, which might be employed for the false
miracles, oracles, &c., for which the Temple was
famed. This upper pavement of finely-wrought
marble slabs, about two feet thick, has quite dis-
appeared ; the lower pavement, of good work, but
of irregular blocks of marble, still remains. The
bases of many of the columns, and even one of the
columns itself, had been discovered in situ. We
visited the site of the Great Temple. Very large
excavations had been made, more than twenty feet
deep, and the lower pavement had been laid bare ;
but the late heavy rains had covered all with water,
and very little could then be seen.

To Mr. Wood belongs the fame of having at
length discovered the site of this famous edifice,

42 ANATOLICA.

which was, as the ancient geographers describe it,
distinct but not remote from the- city. Its spoils, no
doubt, were the earliest removed to Constantinople,
for the erection of Justinian's famous church, "St.
Sophia," and when the polished marble blocks of
which it was built, and its magnificent sculptures
and columns — the work of Scopas and his pupils —
had been removed, its foundations were gradually
covered by the silt of the muddy Cayster, and so
left undisturbed for centuries, till the researches
of modern times brought them again to light. The
following is the account of Pausanias (vii. cap. ii)
concerning the worship of Diana : —

" The worship of the Ephesian Artemis existed
there long before the lonians settled in that
country, and expelled or conquered the Carians.
Pindar says the worship was instituted by the
Amazons, when warring against Theseus and the
Athenians, but that Cresos, or Coresos, an autoch-
thon, and Ephesus, son of the river god Cayster,
founded the Temple, and from the latter came the
name of the city. The inhabitants of that district
were Leleges of Carian race, and, in still greater
number, Lydians.

" Other races, and also the Amazons, settled
round this Temple, which was reputed to be very
sacred. Androclus, son of Codrus, led the lonians
to Ephesus, and drove out the Leleges and
Lydians, but did not harm those who dwelt round
the Temple. Androclus was slain in war against

ANATOLICA. 43

the Carians, and was buried at Ephesus, and his
tomb still existed in the time of Pausanias, by the
side of the road which leads from the Temple of
Diana, past the Temple of Olympian Jupiter, to
the Magnesian Gate. This monument was the
figure of an armed man. His descendants continued
to possess hereditary honours under the Emperor
Tiberius. They had the title of *king,' wore
purple, and carried a sceptre, had precedence at the
games, and various other honours."

Pliny (ii. 29) mentions that the city had been
called by many names before it took its final title.
At the time of the Trojan war, Alopes — then
Ortygia and Merges, then Smyrna Trachcea, &c.,
&c. Strabo (xiv. i) says that Prion was anciently
called Lepre Acte, and the slope between it and
Coressus — Opistholepria, "the back of Lepre." The
city of Androclus only included part of Prion and
the ground near the fountain " Hypelceus " — other-
wise called Callipia or Halitoea. This is described
by Hamilton as a beautiful little spring in the low
dry ground at the north of the marsh, not far
therefore from the monolith fountain and the south-
west end of the Stadium. The city of Androclus
gradually spread over Mount Prion, but in later
times the hill became partially deserted, owing to
the vicinity of the Temple, and a new city arose in
the plain near the Temple. This continued till the
time of Alexander the Great ; but Lysimachus
forced the citizens to remove to the slope of

44 ANATOLICA.

Coressus, by taking advantage of a heavy rain
and stopping up the water courses so as to flood
the low ground, and they were then glad to remove.
When Ephesus began to decline, the city of Lysi-
machus was in its turn deserted, and an inner wall
was built from the wall on Mount Prion past the
Theatre to the port. (This may be the heavy brick
wall to the west of the Theatre and near the
morass.) It is likely that even this diminished
area proved too large to be secure, and that the
port being changed into a morass would become
unhealthy, and therefore the citizens finally re-
moved to Aiasolouk.

To the age which witnessed this removal we
must attribute the erection of the Aqueduct,
Gateway, &c., &c. Strabo gives an account of
the way in which the port of Ephesus was ruined.
It had always been shallow, and Attalus Phila-
delphus. King of Pergamus (B.C. 159-138), and his
engineers supposed that by narrowing the mouth
of the Cayster the force of the current would carry
off the deposit of mud. Accordingly the work was
executed, and portions of the embankment wall
still remain. But the event was quite opposite to
their expectations, for the silt being retained in the
port and not carried off by the floods of the river
and by the ebb and flow of the sea, rendered the
harbour shallow, even to its entrance. Yet the
great natural advantages of Ephesus enabled it
it bear even this misfortune, and it was still in

ANATOLICA. 45

Strabo's time (B.C. 54 — A.D. 24) the greatest em-
porium of all Asia within Mount Taurus.

After the death of Lysimachus (B.C. 281) Ephesus
and nearly all the south of Asia Minor fell under
the power of the Greek kings of Syria. It was
here the exiled Hannibal lived, until the ruin of
Antiochus the Great forced him to seek another
asylum. Here, also, took place the famous inter-
view between Hannibal and his conqueror, Scipio
Africanus (Livy xxv. 14). After the defeats of
Thermopylae and Magnesia, Antiochus was obliged
to surrender all Asia within Mount Taurus, and the
Roman Senate then bestowed Ephesus on their
faithful ally Eumenes, King of Pergamus.

On the extinction of the Pergamean line of
kings it was made a province (B.C. 133). That the
Romans did not rule their Asiatic subjects either
mildly or justly is evident from the conduct of most
of the Asiatic cities during the war with Mithridates.
Impelled partly by the threats and promises of
Mithridates, but chiefly by hatred of the Romans,
they rose in arms, and in a single day slaughtered
all of Roman or Italian blood who were settled in
Asia (B.C. 88). Appian (" De Bello Mithr.'' xx.-xxi.)
gives some shocking details of this tragedy, which
recalls to mind similar events in more modern times.
Eighty thousand persons are said to have perished
in this fearful massacre !

The Temple of Diana — though professedly an
inviolable asylum — did not save the unfortunate

ANATOLICA.

Romans who fled thither, for the Ephesians tore
the suppliants from the very statues of the goddess
and put them to death.

Amongst the celebrated citizens of Ephesus were
the painters Parrasius and Apelles.

A list of the Christian bishops of Ephesus is
given in the " Oriens Christianus." It commences
with Timothy and St. John and ends in the year
1 72 1. The number of names given is seventy.

CHAPTER III.

Dr. Richard Chandler's Account of the Temple of the Ephesian
Artemis as described by the Ancient Authorities.

Dr. Richard Chandler in his " Voyage in Asia
Minor," in 1764, has compiled nearly all that can
be found in the ancient writers concerning the
famous Temple of the Ephesian Artemis. His
account is as follows : —

"We would close our account of Ephesus with
the preceding chapter, but the curious reader will
ask, what is become of the renowned Temple of
Diana ? Can a wonder of the world be vanished
like a phantom, without leaving a trace behind ?
We would gladly give a satisfactory answer to
such queries ; but to our great regret, we searched
for the site of this fabric to as little purpose as the
travellers who have preceded us.

" The worship of the great goddess Diana had
been established at Ephesus in a remote age. The
Amazons, it is related, sacrificed to her there on
their way to Attica in the time of Theseus, and
some writers affirmed, the image was first set up by
them under a tree. The vulgar afterwards believed
it fell down from Jupiter. It was never changed,
though the Temple had been restored seven times.

48 ANATOLICA.

The idol, than which none has been ever more
splendidly enshrined, was of a middling size and
of very great antiquity, as was evident from the
fashion, it having the feet closed. It was of wood
which some had pronounced cedar and others
ebony. Mutianus, a noble Roman, who was the
third time consul in the year of our Lord seventy-
five, affirmed from his own observation that it was
vine, and had many holes filled with nard to nourish
and moisten it, and to preserve the cement.* It
was gorgeously apparelled, the vest embroidered
with emblems and symbolical devices, and to pre-
vent its tottering, a bar of metal — it is likely of
gold — was placed under each hand. A veil or
curtain which was drawn up from the floor to the
ceiling hid it from view, except when service was
performing in the Temple.

" The priests of the goddess were eunuchs, and
exceedingly respected by the people. The old in-
stitutions required that virgins should assist them
in their office, but in process of time, these, as
Strabo has remarked, were not all observed. The
titles of some of the inferior ministers are perhaps
recorded on the marble which we found near the
entrance of the valley : the sacred herald, the in-
censer, the player on the flute at the libations, and
the holy trumpeter. It may be imagined that many
stories of the power and interposition of the goddess
were current and believed in Ephesus.

* Pliny.

ANATOLICA. 49

" The most striking evidence of the reality of her
existence and of her regard for her suppliants was
probably furnished by her supposed manifestation
of herself in visions. In the history of Massilice,*
now Marseilles, it is related that she was seen by
Aristarche, a lady of high rank, while sleeping, and
that she commanded her to accompany the Greek
adventurers by whom that city was founded.

"MetageneSjt one of the architects of her Temple
at Ephesus, had invented a method of raising the
vast stones to the necessary height, but it did not
succeed so well as was expected with a marble of
prodigious size, designed to be placed over the
doorway. He was excessively troubled, and weary
of ruminating fell asleep, when he beheld the god-
dess, who bade him be comforted ; she had been his
friend. The next day the stone was found to have
settled, apparently from its own weight, as he
wished.

" Near the path after passing the Aqueduct at
Aiasaluck, in our way from Smyrna, we met with a
curious memorial of the importance of the goddess,
and of the respect paid to her. It is a decree of
the Ephesians inscribed on a slab of white marble,
and may be thus translated : — * To the Ephesian
Diana. Inasmuch as it is notorious, that not only
among the Ephesians, but also ever3rwhere among
the Greek nations temples are consecrated to her,

* Strabo, p. 179. f Pliny.

50 ANATOLICA.

and sacred portions ; and that she is set up, and has
an altar dedicated to her, on account of her plain
manifestations of herself; and that besides the
greatest token of the veneration paid her, a month
is called after her name ; by us Artemision, by the
Macedonians and other Greek nations Artemisi5n,
in which general assemblies and hieromenia are
celebrated, but not in the holy city, the nurse of its
own, the Ephesian goddess : the people of Ephesus,
deeming it proper that the whole month called by
her name be sacred, and set apart to the goddess,
have determined by this decree that the observation
of it by them be altered. Therefore it is enacted,
that in the whole month Artemision, the days be
holy, and that nothing be attended to on them but
the yearly feastings, and the Artemisiac panegyris
and the hieromenia ; the entire month being sacred
to the goddess, for from this improvement in her
worship our city shall receive additional lustre and
be permanent in its prosperity for ever/

" The person who obtained this decree appointed
games for the month, augmented the prizes of the
contenders, and erected statues of those who
conquered.

"His name is not preserved; but he was probably
a Roman, as his kinsman who provided this record
was named Lucius Phaenius Faustus. The feast of
Diana was resorted to yearly by the lonians with
their families.

" A people convinced that the self-manifestations

ANATOLIC A. 51

of the deity before mentioned were real, could not
easily be turned to a religion which did not
pretend to a similar or equal intercourse with its
divinity.

"And this, perhaps, is the true reason why, in the
early ages of Christianity, besides the miraculous
agency of the spirit in prophetic fits of ecstasy,
a belief of supernatural interposition by the
Panagia, or Virgin Mary,* and by saints appearing
in daily or nightly visions, was encouraged and
inculcated. It helped by its currency to procure
and confirm the credulous votary, to prevent or
refute the cavil of the heathen, to exalt the new
religion, and to deprive the established of its ideal
superiority. The superstitions derived on the
Greek Church from this source in a remote period,
and still continuing to flourish in it, would princi-
pally impede the progress of any who should
endeavour to convert its members to the nakedness
of reformed Christianity.

" * Great is the Panagia,' would be the general
cry ; and her self-manifestations, like those of
Diana anciently, would even now be attested by
many a reputable witness. By what arguments
shall a people, filled with affectionate regard for
her, and feeling complacency from their conviction
of her attention to them, and of her power, be
prevailed on to accept our rational Protestantism

* See an instance in the year 408. — Sozornen vii. 5.

E 2

52 ANATOLIC A.

in exchange for their fancied but satisfactory
revelations ?

"The reputation and the riches of their Diana
had made the Ephesians desirous to provide for her
a magnificent temple. The fortunate discovery of
marble in Mount Prion gave them new vigour.

" Mount Pion, or Prion, is among the curiosities
of Ionia enumerated by Pausanias. It has served
as an inexhaustible magazine of marble, and con-
tributed largely to the magnificence of the city.
Its bowels are excavated. The Ephesians, it is
related, when they first resolved to provide an
edifice worthy of their Diana, were met to agree
on importing materials. The quarries then in use
were remote, and the expense it was foreseen would
be prodigious.

" At this time a shepherd happened to be feeding
his flock on the mountain, and two rams fighting,
one of them missed his antagonist, and striking the
rock with his horn, broke off a crust of very white
marble. He ran into the city with this specimen,
which was received with excess of joy. He was
highly honoured for his accidental discovery, and
finally canonised, the Ephesians changing his
name from Pyxodorus to Evangelus, * the good
messenger,' and enjoining their chief magistrate,
under a penalty, to visit the spot and to sacrifice
to him monthly, which custom continued in the age
of Augustus Caesar.*

* Vitiuvius, lib. x. c. 7.

ANATOLICA. 53

"The cities of Asia, so general was the esteem
for the goddess, contributed largely, and Croesus
was at the expense of many of the columns. The
spot chosen for the building was a marsh, as most
likely to preserve the structure free from gaps, and
uninjured by earthquakes. The foundation was
made with charcoal rammed, and with fleeces. (?)
The souterrain consumed immense quantities of
marble. The edifice was exalted on a basement
with ten steps. The architects Ctesiphon of Crete,
and Metagenes his son, were likewise authors of a
treatise on the fabric. Demetrius, a servant of
Diana, and Peonius, an Ephesian, were said to
have completed this work, which was 220 years
about.

" The distance between the site of the Temple
and the quarries did not exceed 8,000 feet, and
no rising intervened, but the whole space was
level plain. Ctesiphon invented a curious machine,
of which a description is preserved, for tran-
sporting the shafts of the columns, fearing if a
carriage were laden with a stone so ponderous as
each was, the wheels would sink deep into the soil.

"Metagenes adopted his contrivance to convey the
architraves. These were so bulky that the raising
of any one of them to its place appeared a miracle.
It was done by forming a gentle ascent higher
than the columns, of baskets filled with sand,
emptying those beneath when the mass was
arrived, and thus letting it gradually down upon

54 ANATOLICA.

the capitals. By this method the prodigious stone
formerly mentioned was inserted over the doorway.

" This Temple, which Xerxes spared, was set on
fire by Herostratus (on the same night in which
Alexander the Great was born, October 13th- 14th,
B.C. 3.56), but the votaries of Diana proved so
extravagant in their zeal that she was a gainer by
his exploit. A new and more glorious fabric was
begun, and Alexander the Great, arriving at Ephe-
sus, wished to inscribe it as the dedicator, and was
willing for that gratification to defray the whole
expense, but the Ephesians declined accepting this
magnificent offer.

"The architect then employed was the famous
projector* who proposed the forming Mount Athos,
when he had finished, into a statue of this king.

" The Temple now erected was reckoned the
first in Ionia for magnitude and riches. It was
420 1 feet long, and 220 broad. Of the columns,
which were sixty feet high, 127 were donations
from kings. Thirty-six were carved, and one of
them perhaps as a model, by Scopas. The order
was Ionic, and it had eight t columns in front.
The folding doors or gates had been continued

* This was Cheirocrates, who also was the engineer and planner of
Alexandria, in Egypt.

+ Twenty-five. (Mr. Revett.)

X If the Temple was 220 feet broad, and the columns were sixty
feet high, it must have had twelve columns in front, for then the pieces
of the architrave from centre to centre of the columns would be
nineteen feet long, and that in the centre intercolumniation twenty-

ANATOLIC A. 55

four years in glue, and were made of cypress
wood, which had been treasured up for four gene-
rations, highly polished. These were found by
Mutianus, as fresh and as beautiful 400 years
after, as when new. The ceiling was of cedar,
and the steps for ascending the roof, of a single
stem of a vine, which witnessed the durable
nature of that wood. The whole altar was in a
manner full of the works of Praxiteles. The
offerings were inestimable, and among them was
a picture by Apelles, representing Alexander
armed with thunder, for which he was paid twenty
talents of gold. The structure was so wonderfully
great in its composition and so magnificently
adorned, it appeared the work of beings more than
human. The Sun, it is affirmed, beheld in his
course no object of superior excellence or worthier
of admiration. The Temple of Diana had the
privilege of an asylum or sanctuary before the
time of Alexander, but he extended it to a stadium,
or half a quarter of a mile. Afterwards Mithridates
shot an arrow from the Angle of the Pediment, and
his boundary exceeded the stadium, but not much.
Mark Antony, coming near him, enlarged it so as

three feet in length, in order to extend the breadth of the edifice to
220 feet. The distance of nineteen feet from centre to centre of
column will exactly answer to 425 feet, the length of the Temple,
supposing the columns to be twenty-three in number and their
diameter seven feet. (Note by Mr. Revett, Dr. Chandler's com-
panion on his journey.)

S6 ANATOLIC A.

to comprehend a portion of the city, but that
concession proving inconvenient and dangerous
was annulled by Augustus Caesar.

"We have mentioned before, that the distance
of the Temple from the quarries did not exceed
8,000 feet, and that the whole way was entirely
level. From the detail now given, it appears that
the Temple was distinct from the present city, and
the distance may be inferred, for Mark Antony
allowing the sanctuary to reach somewhat more
than a stadium from it, a part of the city was
comprised within those limits. It was, moreover,
without the Magnesian Gate, which, I should
suppose, was that next Aiasaluck ; and, in the
second century, was joined to the city by Damianus,
a Sophist, who continued the way down to it through
the Magnesian Gate, by erecting a stoa, or portico
of marble, a stadium or 625 feet in length, which
expensive work was inscribed with the name of his
wife and intended to prevent the absence of the
ministers when it rained. He likewise dedicated a
banqueting-room in the Temple, as remarkable for
its dimensions as its beauty. It was adorned with
Phrygian marble, such as had never been cut in
the quarries before.*

" The extreme sanctity of the Temple inspired
universal awe and reverence. It was for many
ages a repository of foreign and domestic treasures.

* Philostratus, p. 601.

ANATOLIC A. 57

There, property, whether public or private, was
secure amid all revolutions.

" The civility of Xerxes was an example to subse-
quent conquerors, and the impiety of sacrilege was
not extended to the Ephesian goddess. But Nero
was less polite. He removed many costly offerings
and images, and an immense quantity of silver and
gold. It was again plundered by Goths from
beyond the Danube, in the time of Gallienus* a
party under Raspa crossing the Hellespont and
ravaging the country until compelled to retreat,
when they carried off a prodigious booty.

" The destruction of so illustrious an edifice
deserved to have been carefully recorded by con-
temporary historians. We may conjecture it fol-
lowed the triumph of Christianity. The Ephesian
reformers, when authorised by the imperial edicts,
rejoiced in the opportunity of insulting Diana, and
deemed it piety to demolish the very ruins of her
habitation.

" Hence, perhaps, while the columns of the
Corinthian temple have owed their preservation to
their bulk, those of this fabric, with the vast archi-
traves, and all the massive materials, have perished
and are consumed. Though its stones were far
more ponderous, and the heap larger beyond com-
parison, the whole is vanished, we know not how or
whither. An ancient author has described it as

* In the year of Christ 262.

58 ANATOLIC A.

standing at the head of the port, and shining as a
meteor. We may add, that as such too it has since
disappeared.

" It has been supposed that the souterrain by the
morass or city port, with two pieces of ancient wall
of square stone, by one of which is the entrance to
it, is a relic of the Temple ; but that spot was nearly
in the centre of the city of Lysimachus ; and besides,
the Temple was raised on a lofty basement with
steps. The edifice was deemed a wonder, not for
its form, as at all uncommon, but for the grandeur
of its proportions, the excellence of its workman-
ship, and the magnificence of its decorations.

"The vaulted substructions* by the Stadium
might, it is believed, furnish an area corresponding
better with this idea, and more suited to receive the
mighty fabric ; which, however, it has been shown
above, was in the plain, and distinct, though not
remote, from the present city.

"A writert who lived toward the end of the

* These vaulted substructions are in the plain, and support an area
high on all sides above the level of the ground, but on this upwards of
thirty feet, which, from its extent in length and breadth, may be judged
capable of including the peribolus or enclosure of the Temple. The
opposite side of this area joins to the foot of Mount Prion, and ex-
tends itself parallel with the Stadium, near the length of it, forming a
hollow way between them about forty feet wide and eight feet deep,
scattered over with broken pedestals and bases of columns, probably
the remains of the peristyle erected byDamianus, the length of the
stadium. (Mr. Revett.)

t Clemens Alexandrinus, i. p. 44. See the Sibylline verses, lib. v.
p. 607.

ANATOLICA. 59

second century, has cited a sibyl as foretelling, that
the earth opening and quaking, the Temple of
Diana would be swallowed, like a ship in a storm,
into the abyss ; and Ephesus, lamenting and weep-
ing by the river banks, would inquire for it, then
inhabited no more.

" If the authenticity of the oracle were undisputed,
and the sibyl acknowledged a genuine prophetess,
we might infer, from the visible condition of the
place, the full accomplishment of the whole predic-
tion.

" We now seek in vain for the Temple ; the city
is prostrate ; and the goddess gone."

CHAPTER IV.

Ravine near the Azizieh Tunnels — Ancient Aqueduct— A Soldier of
the Turkish Contingent in the Crimea — Anecdote of the Damascus
Massacre in 1857 — Ravine of the Lethaeus — First View of the
Plain of the Mseander — Mount Messogis — Its Beauty — Aidin
(Tralles) — Cemeteries in the Maeander Valley — Khan at Nazli —
Bazaar at Nazli — The Zeybeks — Zeybek Robbers — Costume — Oui
Party — Our Muleteers — Opening in Mount Messogis — The "Asian
Meadow " — Stream and Bridge of the Maeander — Valley of the
Mosynus — Cafe at Ali Aga Tchiftlik — Formation of the Country
— River Ak Soo (Mosynus) — Chalk Cliffs — Verdure of the Countiy
— Kara Soo — Its Torrent — Ravines — Khan at Kara Soo — Descent
from the Town — Geera (Aphrodisias) — Walls of the City — Great
Number of Inscriptions — Gateway — Stadium — Temple of
Aphrodite — Agora — Remains of other Temples — Vast Mass of
Ruin — Material — Two fine Sarcophagi— Their present Use.

At 9 A.M. we left for Azizieh. Our route lay-
through a most beautiful glen, bordered by high
mountains on either side, all well wooded. Before
the Smyrna and Aidin Railway was made, the
caravan road between these two cities passed
through this ravine. It had been roughly paved,
but is now in bad repair. At intervals were the
guard-houses of the zaptiehs, now all in ruin, and
cottages once tenanted by the English employed in
constructing the line ; a beautiful little stream,
buried in thick wood, traverses this glen, and near
the Azizieh Tunnel a fine ancient aqueduct crosses
the ravine, consisting of two ranges of arches —

ANATOLIC A. 6i

three large below, six smaller above. Except that
its ends are broken off it is still in good preserva-
tion. Above the lower range of arches runs the
following inscription in Latin, with the correspond-
ing Greek below : —

DEANA . EPH . ET . IMP . CAESARI . ET . TI . CAESARI .
AUG . ET . CIVITATI . EPH . (OFEL)LIUS . PF . VOX .
POLLIO . CUM . OFILLIA . A . F . BASSA . UXORE . SUA .
ET . O . OFILLIO . PROCULO . F . SUO . CAETERISQUE .
LEIBEREIS . SUEIS . PONTEM . DE . SUA . PECUNIA .
FACIUNDUM . CURAVIT .

The bushes were full of singing birds, amongst
them numbers of blackbirds and nightingales ;
large tortoises crawled at the side of the path ;
there was a great variety of flowering shrubs and
flowers (many English species), but all this verdure
disappears during the heat of summer.

Some friends from Smyrna who were to accom-
pany us joined us at Azizieh. Whilst waiting for
the train I fell into conversation with a man who
had served in the Crimea, under British officers,
in the Turkish Contingent. He had also been
quartered at Damascus during the outbreak of
1857 i^ which so many Christians were massacred,
and he told me that the colonel of his regiment
had been shot, by sentence of a court-martial,
though perfectly innocent of any share in the
massacre ! It was commonly reported that some

62 ANATOLICA.

of the most guilty had been suffered to escape and
innocent men put to death instead of them.

Between Azizieh and Balajik, the country through
which the railway passes resembles the most
beautiful ravines in Cornwall or Devonshire. It is
a deep dell shut in by lofty mountains, which are
crowned with forests of pine and oak. A beautiful
little river (the ancient Lethasus) foams along in its
rocky bed far below ; luxuriant plane trees and
strips of rich pasture border the stream ; torrents
fall in silvery cascades from above ; the intermediate
heights are covered with yellow broom, and with
thickets of arbutus and myrtle. The soil is of a
rich red ; here and there patches of gravel, or rocks
of sparkling white marble and limestone, diversify
its surface.

Near Balajik the railway enters the plain of the
Mseander. The distant mountains, especially Besh
Parmak, on the south side of the plain, are very
beautiful. The chain on the north side, a part
of Mount Messogis, is rugged and broken ; it is a
succession of peaks green and wooded to the
summits, their outlines most fantastic, yet singularly
beautiful. At Karabounar the top of Baba Dagh
(Mount Cadmus), covered with snow, first appears.
At I P.M. we reached Aidin. The modern city lies
on the edge of the plain, close under the lowest
slopes of Messogis ; the ruins of ancient Tralles are
on the high plateau above the town ; but neither
then, nor on our return, had we time to visit them.

ANATOLICA. 63

Messogis itself is composed of some kind of con-
glomerate, with here and there patches of the
brightest red colour. The whole range here is
broken up into detached hills and peaks in the
strangest and most picturesque manner ; the broken
summits are thickly wooded, and deep valleys, filled
with verdure, run up into the very heart of the
chain. These peaks are almost inaccessible, and
abound with game, especially with wild boars,
which are most destructive to the crops. The
Turks shoot them and sell them to the Christians
of the country, who have no scruple in eating
them. Beyond the nearest range of Messogis rose
another range, loftier and less wooded. The range
to the south of the plain (Mount Latmus) is in
complete contrast to Messogis, being a waving but
unbroken chain, with a surface comparatively
smooth.

Mr. Bradech, of Aidin, who was to be the leader
of our party, had our horses ready, and at 3.30 P.M.
w^e started for Nazli.

The plain of the Maeander is the finest district
of Anatolia, fertile, well cultivated, and with
abundance of wood and water. There is even a
good road, enclosed with walls and well-kept
hedges in most parts, and on either side of it are
olive grounds, vineyards, &c., in the highest state
of cultivation ; and it is this district that sup-
plies the finest figs and raisins for the Smyrna
market.

64 ANATOLICA.

Very strange and very beautiful was the appear-
ance of the cemeteries ; they are of vast extent ; in
some places extending for miles on both sides of
the road. They are full of beautiful trees, many of
them plane trees of enormous size, and many
centuries old. As night came on the deep gloom
and silence of these places were most impressive.

Numerous streams from the hills meandered
along the road, and at short intervals fountains of
excellent water fell murmuring into stone basins,
or marble sarcophagi ; these streams are brought
down from the hills on the north in conduits ; and
it is looked upon as a pious action to defray the
cost of such a work.

Our route was as follows: — 4.25 P.M., Imamkeui —
near this is a large mineral spring; 5 P.M., Sekkeui;
5.49 P.M., River Kutchak ; 6.15 P.M., Keuschk ;
here we halted half an hour for refreshment.
Night had now come on, but there was a brilliant
moon. We halted again at Aktcha Keui, and,
close upon midnight, reached the Khan at Nazli, a
large and well-built edifice of stone. A large
room, with divans all round it, was assigned to us,
a supper of eggs and pilaff was served, and we lay
down to sleep.

April 25th. — Rose at 5.30 A.M., and made our
toilet at the fountain in the middle of the court-
yard. It happened to be market-day ; so after
breakfast, and whilst waiting for fresh horses to be
brought, we strolled through the bazaars. A few

ANATOLICA. 65

years back great part of Nazli was burnt, so
that the bazaars are new, and many of the shops
have even iron shutters.

We entered the horse market first. The horses
of Anatolia are much inferior to the Arab horses of
Egypt, and the prices asked were, according to
Eastern custom, absurdly high. There was a
large quantity of coarse native embroidery, but
most of the goods for sale were European. In
some of the shops were lumps of frozen snow, for
cooling water, sherbet, &c., as in Damascus ; and
it being market-day, several sheep were roasting
whole before enormous wood fires. Great quantities
of madder-root, olives in sacks, cheese, grain, flour,
&c., were set out for sale. I saw one man who
wore three silver medals for the Crimean war
(English, French, Turkish). The appearance of
the peasants in their coarse goat's-hair clothing
w^as most clumsy ; but strangest of all is the
costume of the Zeybeks. These people are de-
scended from the ancient Carians, and inherit the
daring and intrepid spirit of their ancestors. Not
many years ago a formidable revolt broke out
amongst them. Even now they are a restless,
unquiet set, and the whole of this district is so full
of forest and mountain that an outbreak would
cause great embarrassment to the Government. It
appears, however, that the worst brigands are
Greeks from the islands, or Greece proper ; the
Zeybeks are better than their reputation ; and.

66 ANATOLICA.

happily, the Turkish Government has no sympathy
for brigandage.

I noticed the dress of one Zeybek dandy in
particular. He wore a very tall square iez of
crimson, with a finely-embroidered turban wound
round it ; a gold-embroidered jacket, quite short,
and only reaching just below the arm-pits ; the
whole throat and breast, as far down even as the
pit of the stomach, was bare (this is the custom
winter and summer) ; round the stomach, and
reaching just below the buttocks, a plaided silk
sash was tightly wound, allowing the shape of the
body to be seen ; under this was a pair of tight-
fitting white breeches, which came to just above
the knee ; below these was a bare space, and then
tightly-fitting gold-embroidered gaiters. In front
of the stomach was a huge leathern belt or case,
called a " sillahhlik," with pouches for carrying
weapons, knives, cartridges, &c. ; it is generally
worn by the country people from Smyrna east-
wards up the valley of the Mseander, but it is heavy
and inconvenient. The whole costume had a most
singular effect. Every one was armed, more or less.

Our party consisted of three gentlemen from
Smyrna, Messrs. Stannius, Barth, and Fisher ; Mr.
Bradech, of Aidin ; Mr. Seiff, of Dresden ; and
myself. Our interpreter was a young Greek of
Aidin, who spoke French well, but was not strong;
he suffered much from fever on our journey, but
towards the end became more accustomed to the

ANATOLICA. 67

privations and hardships of travel in such a
country. At Nazli, our muleteer, Mehmet, joined
us. He was a tall, powerful man, his face deeply
pitted with marks of small-pox. We found him
an excellent fellow, always good-tempered, obliging,
and ready to please. He " got on " admirably
with every one, and took great care of us. Mr.
Bradech had engaged him, and much of the
pleasure of our journey was due to this judicious
selection, for be it remembered a good " katerji "
(muleteer) is one of the chief points to be attended
to. He was to join us for the journey at Denizli ;
until then our " katerji " was a stout, jovial old
gentleman, also named Mehmet — a good-natured
soul, who never hurried himself or allowed any-
thing to put him out. The boy "Emin," a strange,
funny character, with an ugly but shrewd face, was
to accompany our Mehmet. The old Mehmet's
voice was soft and musical. Methinks I hear him
now, as he gently roused the snoring " Emin," and
never lost his temper, however much that mischie-
vous individual might provoke him. Truly he was
a good soul !

At 9 A.M. we left Nazli. The hills behind the
town are a continuation of the Messogis range,
lower, but equally broken ; and at the spot where
the road turns southwards to the Maeander they
are yet lower and less wooded. Opposite Birlebey
there is a remarkable opening in them, through
which a small river issues, and far behind, a wide

F 2

68 ANATOLICA.

extent of richly-wooded and grassy country may
be distinguished through the ravine, apparently a
fine upland basin in the bosom of the mountains.
Dr. Chandler noticed this, and considered it to be
Strabo's " Leimon " (" the meadow "), thirty stadia
distant from Nysa, and which Strabo says, " the
people of the country considered to be the * Asian
meadow' of Homer."

About an hour and a half beyond, a torrent
descends in a large waterfall from Messogis and
enters the plain not far from the town of Kuyudja.
The effect of light and shade on Messogis was
exquisite, and the whole plain up to the foot of the
mountains was magnificently wooded.

Near the river the ground is marshy, owing to
inundations. It is traversed by a stone causeway,
which is in many parts quite ruined, and during the
winter this road must be nearly impassable, but at
present the marsh is covered by the cattle and
tents of the Yourouks and Tchingannis (gipsies).

At lo.io A.M. we reached the Mseander. The
stream, muddy and rapid, but not now deep, is
crossed by a wooden bridge some seventy paces
long, which is in a very ruinous state. It is made
of transverse beams of wood supported by piles
driven into the river bed. We were advised to
dismount and to be careful where we walked, as
many of the planks were broken. And yet this is
the only communication for many miles between
the north and south sides of the river !

ANATOLICA. 69

Emerging from the cultivated ground near the
river we entered a sandy and arid tract. Behind
this and parallel with the river ran the richly-
wooded chain of the Harpasa mountains, and these
turning to our right formed the west side of the
Mosynus valley, which we were now about to
enter. From the entrance of this valley there is a
fine view of the whole range of Mount Messogis
westwards till the view is lost in the distance.

This upper part of the Mseander valley is less
fertile and less thickly peopled than the lower
part. Its soil is sandy or gravelly, and it slopes
rapidly from the mountains down to the river. The
whole length of the valley is thirty hours on horse-
back, and properly to develop the resources of
this rich district the Smyrna and Aidin Railway
should be extended, but of this there seems little
immediate prospect.

Although so early in the season the heat was
intense, and at 12.15 P-M. we gladly halted at one
of the cafes in the village of Ali Aga Tchiftlik.
This pretty little spot is opposite the site of
Antiocheia ad Maeandrum, but we did not visit the
old city, the heat was overpowering and we much
fatigued ; nor could we with the glass distinguish
any remains of buildings on the hill where the old
city stood. The cafe was full ; amongst the guests
I noticed one remarkable figure, a fine athletic
negro, armed and dressed in the most picturesque
way. The people all seemed friendly, and there

70 ANATOLICA.

was a lively conversation among them as to who
we were and what could be our object in coming
amongst them ; some thought we had come from
Stamboul on a Government mission, but they
finally decided that we were only travelling for our
pleasure. Some of them contrasted their own
condition with ours, saying that we were "fortunate
who could go about in this way where and how we
pleased." We lunched in a garden near the cafe
under the shade of a magnificent walnut tree ;
afterwards most of us lay down to sleep on mats
which the cafeji brought. The warm and perfumed
air, blue haze over the distant mountains, the soft
rustling of foliage, a murmur from the little brook
that watered the garden, now and then a few notes
from a nightingale, and the soft sleepy plaint of
the turtle-dove, " Kutcha-ka-chee-a-kutcha " —
such are my memories of the garden at Ali Aga
Tchiftlik.

At 3 P.M. we again started, and in about an hour
passed the village of Yenikeui, situated on a hill
close by the Ak Soo (Mosynus) river.

The character of the country had quite changed
here. On our right the Harpasa mountains ran
parallel with the river and wooded to their sum-
mits. From their base and at right angles to
them a series of great rolling hills descends to the
river, like so many gigantic "reens" or ridges in a
ploughed corn-field. Through these the river had
cut its way. Its bed was very deep, and at

/; m

fi.

ANATOLIC A. 7 1

intervals high and precipitous chalk cliffs overhung
the stream. The section of these rolling hills, as
seen from the river, was somewhat thus. (See
sketch.)

Here and there we passed great grassy slopes
descending from the mountains at a considerable
angle, as evenly as if artificially levelled ; in some
cases the terrace would be broken off abruptly,
leaving a steep precipice of from 200 to 300 feet in
height. (See sketch.)

The general formation of the country is a rapid
slope from the mountains on either side down to
the river. Seen from a distance, the angle of
descent is surprisingly abrupt. The soil near Ali
Aga Tchiftlik is a micaceous sand, mixed with
chalk ; here and there are patches of the deep red
loam already mentioned. Towards Kara Soo, pure
chalk succeeds — the hills on the north-east consist
almost entirely of it ; and it is from this the river
derives its name — " Ak Soo " (" the White Water ").
The valley is well cultivated, and full of fine trees ;
the roads well kept up, and bordered with hedges.
We were surprised at the great extent of the
country. " This land was grandly built," said Mr.
S. ; and all these great rolling hills and deep
valleys were covered with wood, rich grass, and
waving crops of corn, all so exquisitely green that
even England itself, under its best aspect, could
not surpass them. Anything more grand and at
the same time more lovely than the scenery we saw

72 ANATOLIC A.

to-day I had never beheld ; yet even this was
surpassed by the scenery of - the more remote
interior.

We continued to pass up the valley till we
could see behind us only the upper corner of
the Mseander valley, with Messogis beyond it.
Gradually Mount Cadmus appeared, rising to a
snow-covered peak, which glittered like silver
against the deep blue sky. The country between
us and it seemed very vast, and far away in front,
another range — the north end of Boz Dagh —
closed the view. The town of Kara Soo, where
we were to halt that night, is at the top of the
great slope above mentioned, and close under the
mountains. Its name (" the black water ") is
derived from the torrent that passes through it,
and which is clearer than the Mosynus, as it does
not flow through a chalky soil. We had to ascend
to Kara Soo from the river level, and this occu-
pied us one and a half to two hours. The ascent
is very steep, and we had to cross other deep
ravines ON the slope. (See sketch.) These deep
torrent beds protected Kara Soo when it was
attacked by the rebels under Soli Bey Oglu,
in the great revolt of 1739. Night had set
in before we reached the khan. We entered
the town at about 7.15 P.M., after crossing a large
bridge over the stream of the Kara Soo, which
flows in a deep rocky bed down to the Ak Soo.
The little town, famous for its manufacture of

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ANATOLICA. 73

pottery, seems to be very flourishing; its houses
are good, and solidly built of dark stone, though
there are many of wood. The khan at which we
lodged was entirely of wood, like most of the
khans in Anatolia. It was built round a square
open space paved with large rough stones, but
there seemed to be no particular plan in its con-
struction. There was a number of small rooms on
the ground floor, and above them a story of similar
rooms, with rickety staircases leading to balconies,
and a covered gallery running round the square,
and into which each room opened. The whole was
distorted and out of the perpendicular in the
strangest way. The room allotted to Mr. S.,
myself, and our interpreter, though small, was well
matted, and tolerably clean. The khanji supplied
our supper — a pilaff, some yaourt, and a pair of
tough old hens — and we turned in and slept
soundly.

April 26th. — Left Kara Soo at 6.40 A.M. Our
course was down to the Ak-Soo and up the
opposite slope to Geera (Aphrodisias). We de-
scended to the river by one of the many valleys
formed by the rolling hills already mentioned ; but
the scenery, though fine, was not equal to that of
yesterday.

On emerging from the Ak Soo ravine we saw
before us the hills above Geera, Mount Cadmus
towering above them all, and far on the left a
corner of Mount Tmolus, still covered with snow.

74 ANATOLICA.

On our right was a great upland basin, surrounded
by mountains, the Harpasa range forming its south-
east limit, and gradually diminishing in height till
it disappears. The general surface of this basin
seemed even, but the glass showed that it was
furrowed by numerous torrents and ravines. It was
cultivated in a few places, but was mostly in wood
and pasture. The high ground we were passing
was chalky and sterile.

At 8.40 A.M. we reached the gateway in the
wall of Aphrodisias, observing on the sides of the
road that led to it many broken columns and
sarcophagi.

Aphrodisias stands in the plain between Mount
Cadmus and the hills to the east of the Mosynus.
Its remains are very extensive, and, owing to the
material of which it was built — a close-grained
white marble — are still very perfect. The city wall
and the Temple of Aphrodite (Venus) are the most
interesting objects. A large portion of the former
has been removed as far as the level of the ground ;
the portion still standing (except in one place,
where some good Roman brickwork has been
erected) is built of massive cut blocks of white
marble, averaging three feet by four in size ; the
lower part is of very fine workmanship, the blocks
being exactly fitted together. The upper part (like
the Aqueduct at Aiasolouk) is the restoration of a
later age — perhaps under one of the Byzantine
emperors, and after an earthquake. It is a

^ o

ANATOLIC A. 75

congeries of capitals, friezes, architraves, shafts,
bases, &c., put together without selection. The
inscriptions built into the wall are very numerous
and perfect, and of centuries widely remote. It
would require many days to copy them, and per-
haps not a single inscription has escaped notice
by earlier travellers. Part of the gateway is of
fine workmanship, but most is a confused assem-
blage of blocks.

Over the arch outside is a long inscription
defaced, and I could only decipher the words — ^^Ciilp
vyisUs y.ou vUns." Near it is a bas-relief of a winged
Victory, and a lion roughly carved ; inside the

gate in large characters /^ ^JJ another bas-relief

of a winged Victory, and a finely executed cornice
of rams' heads and oxen. The Stadium near the
city wall is about 600 feet long by about eighty feet
broad. It contains eighteen or twenty rows ot
seats, but overgrown with bushes ; the circular
ends are in a little better condition than the rest.
Of the Temple, fifteen fluted Ionic columns still
stand, and a portion of the cella, circular in shape ;
it is of very fine workmanship, and built of the
finest polished white marble, with the fret ornament,
deeply carved upon it

S1515I515L

The Temple has evidently been used for a
Christian church, having been adapted for that

76 ANATOLIC A.

purpose by the erection of rude interior walls, and
on all sides appear Christian emblems and inscrip-
tions.

Near the present Turkish village are the remains
of what was perhaps the Agora, with a portico of
two rows of red granite columns, upon some of
which the architrave still remains, and the site of
other columns which have been removed may be
still distinguished ; but this building is of inferior
style. A few scattered columns still remain erect :
two small, with spiral flutings ; two other, very
beautiful, belonging to a small temple in ruins of
the Corinthian style ; another porticus (perhaps) on
the south side of the city ; and in a field, opposite
the Great Temple, a large single column, of which
only a few feet remain. The whole open space
around the Temple and up to the city wall is
covered with prostrate columns of marble and
granite, and fine fragments of huge size. Much
has been removed in the course of ages, here, as in
every other ruined city of Anatolia, but the pro-
digious mass of ruin still left, and the rich materials
employed, testify to the former opulence of the
city.

In an enclosure belonging to one of the peasants
we saw two large sarcophagi. These are now
used for making *' petmez," and one of them
is, I believe^ the richly ornamented Byzantine
sarcophagus described by Sir C. Fellows. " To
what base uses, &c.. Sec." We observed neither

ANATOLIC A. 77

Aqueduct nor Theatre. Aphrodisias had a
Christian bishop (the last) in the year 1450 A.D.
Of the history of the town almost nothing is
known.

CHAPTER V.

Torrents from Baba Dagh (Mount Cadmus) — Parched District — Pass
of Tcham Beli — Caffinehs in the Mountain Passes — Tomb of a
Muslim Saint — Tcheragh — Cairn — Curious Custom — Mount
Cadmus — Plain of Dawas (Taboe) — View from Top of Pass —
Torrent Bed at Edge of Plain — The " Stranger's Room " in a
Turkish Village — Hospitality of Turks — Kara Hissar — Dwellings,
Furniture, and Food of Peasantry — Makuf — Kilidja Bolouk —
Number and Beauty of the Children — We lose our Way — Ascent
of the Seiteen Yailas — Volcanic Evidences — Forest — Descent of
the Mountain — Cafe at the Mouth of the Bedra Pass — Defeat of
the French Crusaders under Louis VII. in this Pass — Scenery oi
the Bedra Pass — Thunderstorm — Plain of Denizli — Town of
Denizli — Khan — Greek Khanji — Eski Hissar (Laodicea) —
Aqueduct — Benefactors to the Old City — Its fine Wool — Stadium
— Thermae — Gymnasium — Small Theatre — Large Theatre —
Odeum — Sculpture — Destruction of the Antiquities of Laodicea
— Desolation of the City.

We left Aphrodisias at 12.20 p.m. Our route was
through a sandy but well cultivated district, past
the villages of Emir Keui and Sekkeui, and across
several deep torrent beds cut by the streams which
descend from Mount Cadmus when the snow
melts ; and to judge from the appearance of the
torrent beds these must be terrible streams in
spring time. Wonderful for Anatolia, good stone
bridges span them ! There seems a scarcity of
water along this district. No perennial brook or
fountain appears to descend from the mountain on

ANATOLIC A. 79

this side; the soil is full of large rounded boulders
mixed with smaller pebbles and sand, as if it had
been long submerged.

At about 3 P.M., continually ascending from
Geera, we reached the foot of "Tcham Beli "
('* Pine Pass "), otherwise called " Koregoze Beli.*'

This pass has an evil reputation. Not many-
years ago Zeybek robbers rendered this road almost
impassable, and even now the people of the country
tell alarming — perhaps sensational — stories con-
cerning it.

Near the top of the mountain passes in this
country there is generally a cafe, and it is the
custom to stop at all such places and take coffee.
The cafejis are in general half brigands, and this
is a mild way of levying black mail. The repose,
however, the shelter, and the slight refreshment,
are always acceptable enough after the steep ascent
of the passes, and we never omitted conforming to
the custom of the country.

Just before we began the ascent we passed
the tomb of a Muslim sheikh. It was a very
lovely spot, and evidently much respected by the
people. The ascent, though long, was not very
steep, and at 4.50 p.m. we reached the cafe. There
were no very large pines in the forest which covered
all this side of the mountain, but most of the finest
had been felled ; many were lying where they fell,
for wood is so abundant that often the woodmen do
not take the trouble to remove what they have cut

8o ANATOLICA.

down. Many of the trees are cut with the axe
several inches deep, near the root ; the turpentine
flows towards this part, and after a certain time the
tree is felled, and all the wood near the incision is
found to be saturated with turpentine. It is then
used as flambeaux, candles, &c., under the name
" tcheragh." (The same process was described by
Theophrastus (B.C. 372-287) more than 2,000 years
ago.)

At 5.45 P.M. we reached the top of the pass;
near the way side was a large cairn of stones — our
people religiously added their quota to the heap
. — it was close to the tomb of some holy man or
other, and over it was a tree thickly hung with*
fragments of rags, &c., votive offerings it may be.

Quite a different style of country appeared when
we reached the top of the mountain chain. On our
left was Mount Cadmus seen in its length, no longer
from one end only. This great chain, with its three
principal summits, was of a beautiful ash colour, of
various shades, its base thickly covered with forest,

* This must be a relic of some heathen custom, for pure Moham-
medanism does not allow such observances. It is, however, common
enough in Egypt, and I once observed the same thing at the ruined
Temple of Venus, at Af ka, on the Adonis river, in the Lebanon. In
the "Thousand and One Nights " (Lane, vol. iii., p. 222) there is a
very pretty anecdote connected with this custom. Mr. Lane, I believe,
confesses that he can assign no reason or origin for it. But it seems
to be a common superstition amongst Muslims that by tying or nailing
a small piece of their garments to a tree planted over the grave of some
holy personage they may free themselves from any trouble or sickness
that afilicts them.

AXA'l'OLICA. 8 1

but all above bare, except the highest peak, in
appearance the crater of an extinct volcano, which
was still thick with snow and rose to a height of
above 6,000 feet.

Before us, far below, lay the plain of Dawas
(Taboe) famed for its wheat ; on the opposite side
of the plain, seven or eight hours distant, and ex-
tending far to the right, was the chain of Boz Dagh
(" Ice Mountain "), anciently Mons Salbacum —
covered with perpetual snow. Far in the south
rose the great snow-clad mass of Ak Dagh (Massi-
cytus Mons) in Lycia, more than 10,000 feet high,
but only its loftiest summit was visible.

wStill farther to the right we could discern other
snow mountains, portions of the chain above
Moollah, and many smaller ranges rose on either
side of the plain. It was near sunset ; the top of
Boz Dagh glittered like beaten gold in the setting
sun, but the evening shadows had already settled
on the plain, though not sufficiently so to prevent
us from distinguishing the dark woodland and the
bright green of the young wheat and barley.

Involuntarily we drew bridle, and gazed a while
in admiration !*

At the bottom of the pass I noticed the bed of a
torrent, close to the edge of the plain ; a slender
rivulet was trickling along at the bottom of a chasm

* I saw the same view on our return, but it was early in the day, there
WJ\s no contrast of liglit and shadow, and it had by no means the same
charm.

82 ANATOLICA.

full thirty feet deep ; to this depth the stream had
cut its way through the soft red soil of the plain.
The country was well cultivated, the road good and
bordered by hedges or walls of mud brick, and with
abundance of fruit and forest trees. At 8.30 P.M.
we reached the village of Kara Hissar. There was
no khan, so after some delay we were conducted to
the " Musaffir odasy " (" Stranger's room.")*

In nearly every village of Anatolia a house is
set apart for the accommodation of passengers ;
few of them afford much comfort, and this of Kara
Hissar was one of the worst we saw. Perhaps in
former days, when travellers were less common, the
villagers could and did entertain strangers gratis.
Now payment is expected for everything except
the lodging, and indeed in many places the villa-
gers are so poor that they cannot afford to supply
the wants of their visitors free of cost.

Still the will is present ; the poor people are
kind, friendly, ready to oblige, and the European
traveller — though, of course, a great object of
curiosity — is generally treated with civility.

In the course of our journey we met only in
one instance with an entertainer who absolutely
refused all remuneration ; but when we lodged in

• These places, which nearly everywhere afford the only attainable
shelter to the traveller, are generally foundations of private charity —
perhaps charges upon an estate — often of very old date. Every
traveller, whatever be his nationality or religion, may claim shelter in
them.

ANATOLICA. 83

the house of a private person, either the servant, or
some relative of the master, was always ready to
receive our acknowledgment as we were mounting
our horses to start. I do not mention this in dis-
paragement of the hospitality of the people, for
often so large a party as ours must have put our
entertainer to much inconvenience, and the present
given was but an equivalent for what we had con-
sumed.

Knowing the custom of the country, we expected
that food would have been brought. On the con-
trary, not only were we left supperless, but even
our muleteer had great difficulty in obtaining a
little grass for our horses, and no barley could be
had. However, some firewood was brought, and
we lay down on the floor of the room to sleep ; as
might be expected, the night was far from agreeable.
We were the more surprised as one of our party
had visited this village about three years before
and met with a very different reception, for he had
been treated with the utmost kindness, and the
chief people of the place had called to see him.
Next morning we had some little explanation of
their conduct. These people were miserably poor,
owing to the exactions of the Government tax-
gatherers. Still we had offered to pay for what we
needed. Perhaps some party of travellers before
us had treated the villagers badly, and they visited
the faults of others upon us, or they may even have
supposed us to be European employes sent by the

G 2

84 ANATOLICA.

Government upon some mission, and therefore
they wished to appear poor. -

And now to give a short description of the
houses, furniture, and food of the country people.

The dwellings of the peasantry are nearly alike
over the whole interior, except in the large towns.
They consist of one low room square or oblong in
form, often without a window, and only lighted
from the open door. I speak here of the men's
dwelling only : the women of the family almost
invariably live apart. The walls are of clay mixed
with straw, less often, of stones set in clay (a house
of regular masonry is exceedingly uncommon),
sometimes of wood. The flooring is of clay, the
roof of rough poles, over which is laid brushwood
and clay. The roof projects beyond the main wall
of the hut in front, and is supported by posts, thus
forming a kind of porch — indeed, the Greek Temple
is nothing but a refined imitation of the peasant's
hut. These upright posts rest upon blocks of
stone — the spoil of some ancient temple or theatre
when not too distant — and are thus prevented from
sinking into the ground. In general each hut has
also a fragment of an antique column, which serves
to roll the clay roof and so keep it watertight.
The fireplace is large, and, unlike the village houses
of Syria, has a chimney, for here in winter large
wood fires are necessary.

In the matter of furniture the oriental is not
luxurious. A few copper pots, dishes, and ewers, a

ANATOLICA. 8.5

stool to serve as table, some quilted cotton mat-
tresses for sleeping, a few cushions laid upon the
mats against which to rest the back when seated
on the floor — but this is a refinement not often seen
— such is the usual furniture of the peasant's hut.
As they eat together from the same dish or
casserole, plates are superfluous ; knives and forks
are not required, for have they not their fingers r
They lie down on the floor to sleep in the same
clothes they have worn during the day. Having
little or nothing to lose, they are not afraid of
thieves, and the door is only fastened at the top by
a kind of slight latch, which can be easily opened
from the outside. It must be said, too, that they
are in general very honest. The position of their
villages is almost always good. As the plains are
not healthy they usually choose the side of a hill,
and are careful to secure a supply of good water.
Land is not of much value in Anatolia, so that their
huts are built at some distance apart. The door is
open all day long, and they live mostly in the open
air, so that the sanitary state of their villages is
thus better than might be expected. Their food
consists of farinaceous matters, eggs, a few vege-
tables, and various preparations of milk ; meat
they do not taste from one year's end to another.
Their bread is simply flour and water mixed and
poured out in a thin paste upon a hot iron plate
to bake, or rather to be warmed through. Their
drink is water, milk, or coffee without sugar.

86 AXATOIJCA.

Many of the Osmanlis have learnt the vice of
drinking to excess, but the peasant is one of the
most temperate of men, and even if his religion
did not forbid him to drink fermented liquors, his
circumstances in most cases would prevent it.

Such is the style in which the Turkish peasant of
Anaiolia lives. It would be difficult for a man to
exist with less. Even tobacco, of which he is a
great consumer, is now much dearer, owing to the
Tobacco Regie (the new regulation lately estab-
lished by the Government). But whatever other
privations there may be, at least the climate is
exquisite. For the greater portion of the year
mere existence is a pleasure in that land ; but it is
sad to see the condition of the peasantry, deser\dng
as they are of something better !

April 27th. — Left Kara Hissar at 6.15 A.M. In
half an hour we reached Makuf. This is on the
site of the ancient Trapezopolis, but nothing seems
to be left of the old town except a few fragments of
wall. The soil here is of red or pale yellow loam,
disposed in rolling hills, like those of the Mosynus
valley, but not so beautiful. We had now been
gradually ascending for two days, and were high
above the level of the Maeander valley. Our route
was parallel to the line of Mount Cadmus.

At 8.10 A.M. we reached the large and flourishing
village of Kilidja Bolouk. The small children of
the village were very numerous, and I could not
help noticing the great beauty of many among

xWATOLTCA. 87

them. All over this mountain district the children
are fine healthy looking little creatures, with ruddy
complexions and often fine blue eyes and blonde
hair. Two little fellows, apparently brothers,
were quite delighted at our passage, and laughed
and waved their hands till we were out of sight.

At about 10 A.M. we reached Sara Ova, and were
proceeding as Kieppert's map indicated towards
the pass, between the east end of Cadmus and
Khonas Dagh, intending thus to reach Denizli.
Here we fell in with three Turks on horseback, who
were looking for partridges (the "ajil'' of Syria).
They were well mounted, had dogs, guns, and a
decoy partridge in a cage. They told us we had
come out of our way, that the road we were now
following was very circuitous, Denizli being eight
hours distant by that route. We should have
turned on our left tov.^ards the mountain near an
overshot mill we had passed ; this would have
brought us into the Bedra Pass, the direct road
to Denizli. They advised us to cross the Seiteen
Yailas, a shoulder of Mount Cadmus, and so to
enter the pass. Accordingly we followed a deep
ravine leading to the foot of the mountain, by
which, they said, we should find a practicable path
leading over the summit.

The ascent was so steep that we were obliged to
dismount, and, after passing through a thick forest
of pine and oak, we reached the summit in three-
quarters of an hour ; the heat was great, but the

88 ANATOLICA.

pure mountain air kept away fatigue. The three
great ash-coloured peaks of Mount Cadmus towered
high above us ; behind us, far below, lay the plain
of Dawas ; between us and Khonas Dagh lay a
wide district, like a deep amphitheatre, full of
forest and pasture, with scanty patches of cultiva-
tion. It is only when one sees it from a height
that the vast extent of this wonderful country can
be perceived. Khonas Dagh is another great
mountain, separate from Cadmus, in shape like an
inverted basin, with very steep sides, its top
covered with snow, its lower slopes thick with pine
forest. All these mountains are volcanic, and
everywhere are traces of the convulsions of Nature
which cast up their mighty mass. The soil is of
tufa, and of lava in every shade of red, green, and
yellow ; in some places the rock is calcined to a
pale ash colour, in others it is of the deepest red.
I did not notice any continuous lava stream like
those around Vesuvius, but our observation was, of
necessity, limited, and the whole surface of the soil
is composed of tufa, with fragments of calcined
rock and lava of every shade. At intervals patches
of mica-schist occurred — in colour greenish or
yellow and brown, with bright, sparkling surface.
The heat in the ravine had been excessive. On
the top we enjoyed a cool and refreshing breeze,
and, after a short rest, we descended the side of
the mountain, following the cattle paths through
the thick forest. The descent was very abrupt,

ANATOLICA. 89

and we were soon obliged again to dismount and
lead our horses. The fragrance of the pines was
delicious, and amongst many other beautiful
flowers I observed large beds of primroses, a ^
plant I had not seen for now eleven years, and
which recalled pleasant memories of bygone days.
Heavy rain had fallen here on the previous day,
and everything was fresh and fragrant.

Our guide led us directly down the mountain
side, and in about an hour from the summit we
reached a cafe on the main road to Denizli. Here
reposing on turf, green as an emerald, we rested
by the stream, under a fine plane-tree. The cafe
was on a little patch of level ground, shut in by
lofty precipices. Many singing birds warbled all
around, and the sound of the wind in the forest
was strangely sad and musical.

We were now close to the Bedra Pass, which
leads due north to Denizli. It was in this neigh-
bourhood— indeed it must have been in this very
pass — that the French Crusaders, in 1148, under
Louis VII., met with a great disaster. After
forcing the passage of the Maeander, and defeat-
ing the Turkish army near Laodicea, they were
carelessly advancing through the mountains to
the south of Denizli, when their rearguard was
surprised and destroyed by the enemy. Amongst
the slain were thirty of the principal " seigneurs "
in the army ; and the King himself, forced to fight
with his own hands, narrowly escaped death or

go AXATOLICA.

capture at the hands of the infidels. Otho de
Deuil, an eye-witness of the event, speaks of the
inaccessible precipices above their path and the
deep gulfs below ; a description to which this defile
exactly answers.

At 3 P.M. we resumed our journey. A few
hundred yards from the cafe the most difficult
part of the pass begins. Like the Tcham Beli,
it is said to be the scene of frequent robberies ;
indeed a man was then resting at the cafe who
told us he had been robbed and stripped of his
clothes a few days before.

At intervals we passed great caverns hollowed
out in the steep rock precipices. The road is
execrable, but the scenery wonderfully grand. The
pass is here a tremendous ravine through the
mountain chain, and in several spots the road
ran along the edge of precipices 800 or goo feet
deep, down which a stone could be thrown. The
mountains rise steeply above on all sides. There
was not a house in sight ; but high above, on
the grassy slopes, and far away on the opposite
side of the gulf, we could distinguish a few tents of
the Yourouks, the only dwellers in that wild place.

The deep torrent beds, which seamed the moun-
tain sides, were bordered with fine walnut-trees
not yet in leaf; and the spring seemed fully a
month later here than in the plains. As before,
we were much surprised at the extent and ver-
dure of the mountain pastures.

AXATOl.ICA. 91

As we descended from the pass on to the plain
of the Lycus, by a steep rock staircase, a thunder-
storm, which had been raging on the other side of
the plain, over Hierapolis, burst upon us. We
could see it gradually approaching, and when we
reached the northern end of the pass the rain
began to fall in torrents, with very violent thun-
der and lightning. Hierapolis lay almost due
north about five hours distant, and the high cliff
on which the old city stood, covered with broad
patches of white incrustation, shone faintly through
the mist, like a floating cloud. We reached the
khan at Denizli at 7.30 P.M., in the midst of very
violent *] ic^L-iix • i Pfeilizii is ^sti^a^^^lifigtown of some
15,000' or ;2*6,'666' petjpi'e)' full' 'b'f' gardens and fine
trees, iciijid' '.lye^llj '»upp|i6"4o MH'l-h; ' eiecfc,llent water. Its
streets haW 'd toie'rkbly 'good -pci^ed' causeway, run-
ning up the mid4l6',<^^^^'^^' roadway. Our khan w^as
new and clean ; 'but' Yhfe-'khanji, a Greek, had been
indulging too much in raki, and in consequence
paid no attention to our wants. As an instance
of the barbarous way of living in these lands, I
may mention that our interpreter, feeling the ap-
proach of fever, desired some hot water for his
feet ; but the khan could not supply a vessel large
enough either to heat the water required or to
serve as a bath for the feet.

April 28th. — A splendid morning followed the

heavy rain of yesterday. We left Denizli at 9.25
A.M., having been delayed by the difficulty we

92 ANATOLICA.

found in making some necessary purchases. It
was the Greek Easter Sunday, and the Greek
shops were nearly all closed ; but we found a
man who sold what we required. At first he
made a scruple about selling, but at last, observ-
ing that we " were strangers, and on a journey,"
he allowed us to have what we needed. The
charge, however, was high ; so perhaps he quieted
his conscience by adding a few piastres to the
price.

At 10.35 A.M. we reached Eski Hissar (Lao-
dicea). On the way we searched in vain for the
hot spring, like that of Hierapolis, which is said
to have supplied the ^ baths of the oM -city, t The
villagers livings on the S'pot' knew "nothing of it.
But we passed the'-reBraims cf a large .aqueduct,
the arches and piers of which "v/ere co-C^ered with
incrustation deposited by the- wsneih <

Laodicea was built on < -an' "irregular oval hill,
V lyii^g" east and west. This hill is part of a chain

of broken hills of chalk, or chalk-like tufa, which
rises in the middle of the plain of the Lycus, and
corresponds with the Hierapolis chain on the other
side of the plain. The town walls, which can be
traced without much difficulty, enclosed a large
extent of ground.

Its former prosperity may be inferred from the
style and great size of its public buildings. Strabo
says it became great in his time, and in that of the
preceding generation, partly from the benefactions

ANATOLICA. 93

of some very wealthy citizens,* partly from the
excellent quality of the wool produced there. This,
he says, was softer than the wool of Miletus, and of
a deep glossy black {x.opac^'h xp^^f " raven colour," he
calls it). All this district seems to have possessed
a similar property, for Colossse also produced wool
of equal excellence. Many of the public buildings
of Laodicea were of solid white marble ; but most
of limestone, perhaps, in many instances covered
with plaques of marble.

We examined the Stadium first. It is about 220 ^
yards long, but the rows of seats are much over-
grown with brushwood, and many of them have
been: quite 'f-femtiyeci. lAl} '^^o^g llie\ north side of
the Stadium is* a ma'ss'of "bliildirfg' of very solid but
coars^"- 'conitriicUonV. fj^t :eit}i6ir\ end a few arches
remain* (four' at 'tKe east,' nihe*"a;t "the west). The
central portioH ;C(7i1te!m'^ ' a few apse-like recesses
(perhaps niches" 'for 'Vt^fues), some facing west,
others north ; but all in so ruinous a state that
nothing can be clearly made out. The east end of
the building may have been the Gymnasium, and

* Amongst these were Hieron, who bequeathed to the citizens
more than 2,000 talents (nearly ^500,000), and adorned the city with
many gifts besides ; afterwards the rhetorician Zeno, and his sou
Polemon, who for his many excellent qualities was made head of the
State of Laodicea by Antonius, and confirmed in that honour by the
Emperor Augustus. In a.d. 62 the city was partially destroyed by
an earthquake ; but, without any State aid, the damage was made good
by the citizens (Tacitus, Ann. xiv. 27). A Christian Church was early
founded here (i Colossians iv. 15) ; but was soon corrupted (Rev. iii.
14 — 18). The town flourished even to the middle ages.

94 ANATOLICA.

the Thermae must have been here, for in the mass of
masonry at the extreme east end there is a number
of large earthen water-pipes, which are either quite
filled with a stony deposit, or covered with it and
embedded in it, a curious illustration of the petri-
fying quality of the water throughout this district.

Inside the end of the Gymnasium stood a fine
column of red-veined marble. Only a portion of
it is left, and the corresponding column or columns
have been removed. This, too, was covered with a
thick stony crust, looking like a coating of plaster.

No mortar had been employed in all this struc-
ture, and there must be a great accumulation of
rubbish inside : it, ]tl^e;'mH*30Qr;^ being^' far ^tbo, mas-
sive for its presfefit 'height.' ' Lying 'a little to the
north, and connp/:'te(^^'\^^i{1l'; the'fvyrnrn'asi'iinV, is a
long building ofveVy "solid cdnslriictiori, wfth eight
or nine doorways, and ba;s6s , bf^cMbmns in situ —
perhaps a Palaestra. .•■'•"•'■ ••• " •

On the north side of this building, and facing
Mount Cadmus, is a small Theatre, but it is com-
pletely ruined, and only a few of the seats remain.
Exactly opposite the small Theatre, but more to
the north, is a large Theatre, 364 feet in exterior
diameter. It contains fifty-five rows of seats, with
V a diazoma about half-way down. The angle at

which the seats are built is very steep : the cavea
exceeds a semicircle, and the scena lies 7vithin the
curve of the orchestra ; but all in ruin, and covered
with heaps of debris. A remarkable feature in its

ANATOLICA. 95

construction is a deep and wide recess, of a semi-
circular form, in the middle of the ''pulpitum."

Beyond the Theatre are fragments of large
columns, but it is not easy to say of what building
they formed part. The Odeum (or perhaps another
Theatre), facing the west, and entirely of marble, is
in a little better preservation, but only fifteen or
sixteen rows of seats remain. There are nine
staircases down the cavea for the passage of
spectators.

Next the Odeum, and still towards the north, are
the remains of a very fine building, constructed of
large blocks of white marble, but quite ruined ;
also of a second, but of limestone. To the north-
west stood a basilica, but only its foundations
remain. The whole slope of the hill towards west
and north is covered with sarcophagi, all broken or
displaced ; and a street of tombs seems to have
extended westwards to a bridge of three arches,
which crossed the ravine to the west down which
the Caprus runs ; but the arches have fallen.

We searched in vain for an inscription ; but
while resting on the south-west side of the hill one
of our party discovered, amidst the pieces of marble
strewn on every side, two fragments of sculpture,
one the head of a child, and the other a head of a
young girl ; but small as these were, they had not
escaped iconoclastic zeal, for in either the nose
had been carefully destroyed. The proximity of
Denizli has caused much ruin to the antiquities of

96 ANATOLICA.

Laodicea. A Turk was then at work removing
some of the marble seats of the Theatre ; and one of
our party, who had visited this place ten years pre-
viously, said that he had then seen a Greek mason
^ hewing in pieces the really fine bas-reliefs under

the scena of the north theatre, to form Muslim
tombstones ! On the same occasion he had found
the foot of a colossal male statue, but it was too
heavy to remove. If the Ottoman Government
would permit excavations to be made at Laodicea,
no doubt much might be discovered. There is a
small hamlet at the south-east corner of the hill on
which the old city stood, but all else is utterly
desolate. The threatened rejection of the Church
that was "neither hot nor cold" before God — that,
amidst all her wealth, knew not that she was
"wretched, and miserable^ and poor, and blind,
y and naked " — has been fully accomplished !

CHAPTER VI.

Bridge over the Caprus — The Ak Soo (Lycus) — Our Lodging at
Hierapolis (Pambouk Kalesy) — Tree full of Storks' Nests — View
over the Plain of the Lycus — Our Host's Family — Turkish
Women in a better position than Arab Women — Their Musical
Voices — Position of Hierapolis — Effect of the Petrifying Waters
— Watercourses — Deposit of Calc TufF — The Cascade — Basins in
it— Heat of the Water — Its Properties — Pine Water-vessels —
Visit to the Ruins — Bridge over the Ravine to the West — Mau-
solea— Rock Tombs— Street of Tombs^Sarcophagi— Ruins of
great Church — Monument of Stephanus — Other Ruins — Theatre
— Great Source — Its Depth — Deadly Exhalations of Carbonic Acid
Gas — Ancient Accounts of the Plutonium— Strabo— Pliny— Dion
Cassius — Thermae — Gymnasium — Epictetus — Greek Chuich
suppressed by the Latin Crusaders — Wool of Hierapolis— Its
present Desolation — Return to Smyrna of most of our Party.

At 1.50 P.M. we left Laodicea, and passing under
the bridge over the Caprus, turned north to Hiera-
polis. We crossed the Lycus at 2.48 P.M., finding
it rapid, shallow, and turbid with white mud. A
ride of three-quarters of an hour brought us to the
foot of the cliff of Hierapolis,, and we were lodged
in a cottage, near which ran a branch of the hot
stream from the cliff. At the side of our lodging
was a tree not more than twenty feet in height, but
with wide-spreading branches. In this tree not
less than seven pairs of storks had built their nests,
each consisting of a huge bundle of sticks. The
birds, never being molested, showed not the least

98 ANATOLICA.

sign of fear, though their nests were almost within
reach of the hand ! From the door of our lodging
was a fine view of the mountains and the plain of
the Lycus, the latter gloomy and solitary, its chalky
soil sparsely cultivated and full of marshes, with
scarcely a tree to relieve the monotony of its sur-
face. In front, on our extreme left, rose Khonas
Dagh, eighteen or twenty miles distant ; next came
the long chain of the Seiteen Yailas ; then Mount
Cadmus, gradually subsiding into the plain. On its
north side it was still thickly covered with snow ;
but on the south, snow only remained on the highest
peak. Between this and the mountain above Tri-
polis (Boyudjak Dagh) the view was closed by a
part of Messogis, and a little corner of yet another
chain appeared in the extreme distance. From
Boyudjak Dagh the hills circle round, until they
join the heights behind Hierapolis.

The owner of the cottage in which we lodged
had married a Yourouk w^oman. She had a dark
but healthy complexion, and splendid teeth. Seve-
ral other women of the village came in. They
wore no veil, and some were very good-looking,
w4th fine blonde complexions. Their children were
of great beauty. In every way the women of this
country seem superior to the women of Egypt, and
they receive far greater consideration from their
husbands. Here, for instance, one never hears*

xj * I particularly noticed here the soft musical voices of the women.

Their language, which is singularly euphonious, may have something

ANATOLICA. 99

the disgraceful abuse and wrangling so common
between the Egyptian husband and wife.

The ancient Hierapolis was built upon a plateau
or shelf in the side of the mountains to the north
of the Lycus, and about 1,700 feet above sea
level. The south edge of the plateau is formed by
a cliff of travertine (or in great part of travertine),
resting upon the mountain limestone, and about
300 feet in height ; and behind the city, to the
north, rise well-wooded mountains, up to which the
ground rapidly slopes. About half-way between
the cliff and the base of the hills, and nearly three-
quarters of a mile distant from either, is the famous
source of hot water. Its waters have flowed over
the cliff, at different spots, along a distance of
several miles, covering the whole face of the pre-
cipice more or less thickly with a deposit of porous
stone (calc tuff) ; and wherever a branch of the
stream has descended, a long rib of stone, often of
considerable height, has gradually been formed,
stretching out into the plain like a lofty water-
course, along the top of which the water continues
to flow. There are seven well-defined spots at
which the stream has flowed over the cliff at
various ages. The oldest deposit is of a dull ash
colour, the newer white. Close to the present
cascade it is of the purest white, like fine salt. In

to do with it ; but it is a peculiarity of the race. The voice of the
Egyptian women is harsh, grating, and most unpleasant ; but the
negro and Abyssinian slave women resemble the Turks in this respect.

H 2

loo ANATOLICA.

some places a little branch of the stream leaves a
deposit tinged with red ; in others, of a bright

V yellow colour, like sulphur ; near the large fall
again, it is of a beautiful grey. At the foot of the
fall are a number of small shallow basins, one
above another. These are formed of the stone
which is deposited gradually by the water as it
drips from the edge of the upper basins into those
below. The water in these basins varies in colour
from the faintest pearly blue (which is exquisitely
beautiful) to blue with a tinge of red or yellow.
Above are much larger basins, snowy white, with
strong projecting ribs (like the pipes of an organ)
descending from their edges and converging be-
low. Of course the shape and size of these basins
are continually changing.

In many places masses of herbage, leaves,
flowers, sticks, moss, &c.., have been matted to-
gether and covered with the deposit ; but these
beautiful objects are too fragile to bear carriage.
It is a singular and very beautiful phenomenon.
The cliff is easy to mount ; everywhere the ground

x/ sounds hollow, and its whole surface is covered with
stony ribs in the most regular manner, like wave
marks on firm sand. These form an innumerable
number of small basins, none exactly alike, nor at
the same level, but each surrounded by a small
rim. Wherever the water runs over these ribs, the
whole surface of the cliff seems to be in motion in
the strangest way. The hot water of the source is

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ANATOLICA. loi

strongly charged with carbonic acid gas, which it ^
loses when it is exposed to the air ; and then the
water deposits on everything over which it flows a
fine pearly alkaline substance, like salt or snow.
At a distance of fully a mile from the great spring
the water still retains its heat, and minute bubbles
of air form on the surface of the body when bathed
in it, so that when held under water it looks like
frosted silver.

The water is of a mawkish taste, slightly acid,
and ferruginous, and it is so soft that no soap is
needed for washing or to remove grease spots. It
is not wholesome, and good drinking water must
be brought from a considerable distance ; but after
the water of the source has been thoroughly ex-
posed to the air it loses its injurious properties, and
though not palatable, may be drunk. Here I saw
for the first time the wooden vessels used for carry-
ing water. They are made of a section of the pine :
the inside is hollowed from below, and the bottom
is closed by another piece of wood exactly fitted
into it. These vessels are very durable and strong.

Our accommodation was poor; but, thoroughly
tired, we lay down upon the mats and slept as best
we could.

April 29th. — We began our examination of the
old city from the west side. After passing about
a mile along the base of the cliff, we turned up a
ravine on our right, and ascended to the plateau on
which the citv stood.

I02 ANATOLIC A.

Both on the east and west of the city is a long
street of tombs. The road, in continuation of the
western street, was here carried over the ravine by
a bridge. A branch of the stream from the great
source has at some time flowed over this bridge
/ and covered it with the stony deposit from its

waters. The constant dripping of the waters has
gradually filled up the arches, till it now forms
nearly a solid wall, some thirty feet in height,
across the ravine.

On an eminence to the west of the ravine is a
very massy sepulchral building. Its interior is
divided into stories, but the spaces are not large
enough to contain sarcophagi such as those that
were lying around. Outside, upon the top of the
building, is placed a large sarcophagus with coarse
bas-reliefs carved upon it ; and probably the stages
in the interior were intended to receive funereal
urns. Many rock tombs and mausolea are on
the sides of the ravine ; amongst others, one with
an inscription in large letters, but only in part
legible : —

/3ov){?^ ets (xnapoLLT-oTOV .y£Qov61oL

TTVZtOLS^. A..AEEIZ .. . SCQCLVOOTLKCLIC. .

AIETASETO

Tl(3' k1^ KAEriNOZ APXlEPEaE

00- MODXAI AIE

K\EnNoi: AiioXm

* For ncv^ioii ?

ANATOLIC A. 103

The mixture of letters in the inscription is curious.
This man may have been a high priest of Cybele,
whose worship prevailed in Hierapolis.

In a ravine to the north-east of this street of
tombs is the ruin of a large Christian church of
octagonal form, and with the cross inscribed upon
it in many places. The street of tombs extends
for about half a mile. It is bordered by a great
number of sarcophagi, in some parts three or four
deep, and presenting a great variety of shape.
Some of them are really beautiful, but not one
remains unopened or uninjured, and of the in-
scriptions not one of the many we examined was
legible throughout. The material of w^hich these
monuments are made is the mountain limestone, V
which is less durable than marble, and in almost
every case fine lichen has overgrown the crumbling
surface of the stone and obscured the outline of
the letters. Here and there portions of an inscrip-
tion may be found more sheltered, and therefore
in a little better preservation, but most cannot now
be deciphered.

Very solemn and impressive these lines of massy
funereal monuments must have been while as yet
comparatively new and uninjured. Many of them
are of great size.

About the middle of the street of tombs is a wall
of very solid and massive masonry, and close to
it the remains of a large and handsome church,
built of large blocks of stone, without mortar, and

I04

ANATOLICA.

with great open arches. Over the arches is carved
the labarum

Near it, on the other side of the street, is a large
sarcophagus, thus inscribed in large and deeply
cut letters : —

TOTTO TO HPaON

STEOANHI

HEPrA2IATnNBAcDE<QN.

(The Dyers' Company [erected] this monument to Stephanus.)

Beyond this is a triumphal archway (of three
arches), with a round tower on either side. It
bears a Latin inscription, of which only part is
legible. The corresponding Greek is below it : —

SICO PONT MAX TRIB POTE.

3^eyond this is a double row of half-columns [i.e.
having the back part flat). The street passes be-
tween them ; but all are prostrate, and behind
them are the ruins of private houses. The space
between these and the columns had been roofed
over and served as a portico or covered way,
such as existed in most of these ancient cities.

ANATOLICA.

105

Next we passed through the City Gate, with
fragments of wall on its north side ; the arch
of the gateway is closed with massive blocks of
stone, and the doorway is thus left square as at
Kremna and several other places. On its inner
side is inscribed the cross —

A few yards beyond this is another gateway,
with a wall extending towards the hill on the
north. The edge of the cliff was on the south, not
many yards distant. Richly carved fragments
of marble lie scattered about, or are built into
the inner gate.

FragmeTi.ts>>

vVall extending
towards Kills.

Road towards TLcrijiae.

PLAN OF PART OF THE RUINS OF HIERAPOLIS.

X. Street of Tombs.— 2. Massy Wall.— 3. Ruins of large Church.— 4. Tomb of
Stephanus. — 5. Triumphal Arch with Towers. — 6. Colonnade (all fallen). —
7. City Gate.— 8. Inner Gate.— 9. Precipitous Cliff.

A watercourse — now dry — passes from the great

io6 ANATOLIC A.

source towards these gateways. A branch of the
stream has at some time been turned in this
direction, and the water has fastened together,
with its stony deposit, the ruins and debris of the
city over which it flowed in its course. Columns
and fragments of all kinds are embedded in the
stone, the whole forming a kind of wall several
feet above the present level of the ground. Be-
yond this watercourse are the remains of a large
solidly built edifice, with five circular recesses ;
over each is a smaller square recess, perhaps
intended to receive a statue. The upper part of
this building has been restored at a late age in
the same way as the Aqueduct at Aiasolouk, all
sorts of fragments having been inserted in the
wail.

On a higher part of the plateau, and at the
side of the hill, is the Theatre, looking towards
the south-west. It is less injured than any we had
yet seen, and commands a fine view over the site
of the old city. There are twenty-five rows of
seats above the diazoma, twenty below it, others
perhaps being hidden by rubbish. In the w^all
behind the diazoma are some niches, intended
perhaps as waiting places for messengers or
attendants on the spectators. Its diameter (ex-
terior) is 346 feet, interior 100 feet. The scena,
with the rooms for the actors, still in great part
remains. There are five doorways in the scena,
four small and one large ; these are ornamented

ANATOLIC A. 107

along the sides and lintel with sculptures, some
finely executed. The inscription over the great
doorway is illegible, and before the gateway lies
the usual confused heap of bas-reliefs, columns,
&c. ; one or two figures, however, have escaped
demolition. There are four vomitoria : two round
for the upper rows, two square for the lower.
In the centre of the "pulpitum" there appears
to have been a deep niche.

South of the Theatre is the great source ; it is a
large and deep pool of water, of a slight blue tint.
We had no means of measuring its depth, but we
could see at a depth of about tv^^enty or twenty-five
feet fragments of columns and portions of a w^ell-
made marble pavement. On one side of the
pool is a deep rift in the rock at the bottom.
The eye cannot penetrate far into this gloomy
gulf, but it must be of great depth. Probably
this deep reservoir was artificially formed to
collect the water of the hot spring (for its sides
are steep as if the rock had been cut), and the
white marble pavement was then laid at the
bottom. The effect of the blue tinted water
above the pure white marble was, no doubt,
very beautiful. It would seem also that a
temple once stood over the source, and its
fragments, thrown down perhaps by an earth-
quake, are still faintly visible through the clear
water. The same force has rent and distorted
the solid wall-like watercourses formed in the

\-/'

1 08 ANATOLICA.

course of ages by the different streams that have
issued from the source. From every hollow in
the ground along the bottom of the hill, from
every little patch of marsh, carbonic acid gas
issues with a hissing sound ; bubbles of the gas
rise incessantly from the bottom of the great
source and mount upwards to the surface, like
flickering particles of silver. The villagers told
us that several persons had been drowned while
bathing here, overpowered by the noxious gases,
but, as they thought, dragged down by an "efreet"
who lived in the spring. Goats, too, were some-
times killed, and one of our party found two
sparrows just dead ; they had alighted to drink
and were stifled by the vapour. Doubtless the
exhalations from the waters and earth are some-
times very concentrated and deadly.

Strabo (xiii., 4), after speaking of the hot spring,
mentions the Plutonium, " a deep aperture under a
small cliff in the hill side above the town, large
enough for a man to enter. In front of it was
a square enclosure about fifty feet in circum-
ference, and this is filled by a thick, misty vapour,
so that it is difficult to see the ground. The air
outside this enclosure is quite pure in calm
weather, but all animals that enter it die directly:
even bulls are killed by the vapour. But the
eunuch priests of Cybele (a,moy.mo\. Fdxxoi) can go
in without hurt, so that they even approach the
aperture and stoop down and look into it — and

ANATOLICA. 109

plunge into it — so long as they hold their breath
firmly, which they did till they seemed to be
choking. Perhaps all eunuchs had this immunity,
or perhaps only the eunuchs of this temple could
do so ; or they were saved by a divine Providence,
as in cases of enthusiasm ; or perhaps employed
strong antidotes." He is in doubt which.

Pliny (lib. ii., cap. 93), after mentioning similar
deadly exhalations at Soracte, Sinuessa, Puteoli,
Amsanctus, &c., speaks of the Plutonium ot
Hierapolis as being " innocuous to the priest of
the Mighty Mother [i.e., Cybele) only." Dion
Cassius (lib. Ixviii., cap. 27), speaking of Trajan's
visit to an orifice in the earth near Babylon,
from which a deadly mephitic vapour rises, says
that he had " himself examined another similar
aperture at Hierapolis, in the province of Asia,
and made trial of the vapour with birds, and
himself stooped over and looked at the vapour —
that it was enclosed in a kind of receptacle (iv
^E^x{jt.svYi rm)y and there was a place from which to
see it (S-e'ar/jov), and that it kills all animals, except
men who are eunuchs ; he did not know the
reason, but relates exactly what he saw and
heard," &c.

Probably this aperture has long been blocked
up. We saw nothing resembling it. Caution is
necessary in examining the spring, or the unwary-
walker may suddenly fall into one of the many
deep gulfs of hot water ; the marshy ground

£/

no ANATOLIC A.

round the source is full of them, and they are
often half hidden by a thick fringe of rushes
growing round their margin.

On the edge of the cliff, and not far from the
waterfall, are the remains of the Thermae and
Gymnasium — enormous masses of ruin. Of the
Thermae a huge vaulted hall and mighty arches
remain, connected with the Gymnasium by walls
of immense solidity. Along their outer base runs
the principal channel of the hot water from the
source. All these buildings are constructed of
great blocks of limestone, without mortar, but
admirably fitted together, and from the holes
in the stones they seem to have been formerly
covered with plaques of marble. The arches are
truly gigantic in their proportions and in the
blocks of which they are built. The Gymnasium
attached to the Thermae is filled with debris,
over which the waters have flowed, depositing
their incrustations. The whole surface of the
interior sounds hollow beneath the foot. We
observed the square pillars mentioned by Sir C.
Fellows. They are of some kind of coarse con-
glomerate, and strangely w^arped by the sun ;
they may have belonged to courts in which the
bathers could take exercise after the bath. Along
the edge of the cliff, and just over the waterfall,
are other ruins, consisting of massy walls much
out of the perpendicular ; and not far distant
was a large basilica with three naves. The east

ANATOLICA. 1 1 1

side of the city has also its street of tombs and
numerous sarcophagi ; but in consequence of the
overpowering heat we did not visit them.

Hierapolis in the time of Pliny was devoted
to the worship of Cybele. It was the birthplace
of the famous stoic philosopher Epictetus, slave
of Epaphroditus, the infamous freedman (libertus)
of Nero, who helped his master to put an end
to his life, and long afterwards was for this
banished and finally executed by the Emperor
Domitian.

A Christian Church was founded there at a
very early period, and St. Paul (Colossians iv., 13)
mentions " them in Hierapolis." Its last bishop
was in A.D. 1066. Doubtless the Greek Church
there was treated in the same way as in other
places by the Latin Crusaders, who seemed to
have suppressed it whenever they had the power
and to have established the usurping Church of
the West in its place ; but here, as elsewhere,
the rival Churches soon fell before their common
enemy, the victorious Muslim. Of the time when
the city was finally abandoned we have no record.

Hierapolis, like its neighbour Laodicea, owed
most of its prosperity to its woollen manufactures.
Strabo says that the mineral properties of its
water rendered the root dyes of Hierapolis (mad-
der, &c.) so excellent that they might even vie
with the rich scarlet and precious sea purple.
And it was famous as a bathing place. Its pure

112 ANATOLICA.

air, its abundant waters, the beauty of its posi-
tion, the romantic woods and mountains in its
neighbourhood, all helped to make it famous in
the ancient world. But its glory has disappeared
like a dream ! I have seen few spots more
V gloomy and depressing than the old Thermse

of Hierapolis. The rich gifts of nature are
still there, but in place of the flourishing city,
with its polished and wealthy citizens, only the
black tents of a few wandering shepherds and the
poor peasants of Pambouk Kalesy are left. This
title, signifying " Cotton Fort," is the name by
which the place is known to the Turks ; but the
ruins of the old city have no tenants except the few
Yourouks who bring their flocks to pasture there.
Our friends from Smyrna and Aidin left us at
3 P.M., intending to travel all night, so as to
escape the heat, which in these great plains is
already intense. For the rest of the journey only
Mr. Seiff, myself, our interpreter, and the two
muleteers remained..

CHAPTER VII..

Parched District — Bridge over the Lycus — Yourouk Tribe Emigrating
— Shepherd's Bridge — Ravine of the Ak Soo — Site of Colossse —
Barrow— Remains of the Old City— Petrifying Streams — Chasm
of the Lycus — Explanation of its Formation — Last Bishop of
Colossae — Ride to Khonas — Beauty of the Count v — Village
of Khonas — House of Ibrahim Aga— No Antiquities at Khonas —
Beauty of the Children — Visit of the Villagers — The Kadi — Want
of Education among the People — Beauty of the Country to the
west of Khonas— The Kazik Pass — Our Escort — Mount Khonas
— Tchukour— Brigands' Place of Ambush — Plain of Karajuk —
Its Rivers — Cibyratic Confederation — Crops— Soil — Irrigation —
Geological Formation — Karajuk Bazaar— Khan— Greek Khanji —
Disturbed State of the Country — Arab Servant at Khan — Ravine
and Village of Geunahi — Barren Soil and Miserable Crops —
Eschler Yailas— Desolate Aspect of the Country — Poverty of
the Villagers — Money-lenders — Causes of Misery in a Turkish
Village — Salt Lake of Salda — Karaatlu — Our Host — His House
— Crops — Forests — Carelessness in the Management of the
Forests— Fires in the Forests — Our Evening Meal.

April 30th. — Left Hierapolis 6.30 a.m. in weather
cloudy and very sultry. Our course was due
east, along the base of the hills, over a soil
chalky, dry, and scantily covered with herbage,
all which will soon be scorched up as summer
advances. After passing the villages of Dagh
Keui, Ghirlani, and Eldenizli on our left, we
crossed one of the tributaries of the Lycus,
descending from the hills on the north. In the

114 ANATOLIC A.

plain to our right were the villages of Aktche
Tchesmasy and Tchetmejas. ' At 8.40 A.M. we
crossed the Lycus (Tchorouk Soo) by a good
stone bridge, and ascended the hills to the south-
east of the stream.

The plain of the Lycus is bordered by two
\y ranges of barren chalky hills : one the range of
Hierapolis, the other that of Laodicea. Close
behind the former rises a higher limestone range,
but between the range of Laodicea and the high
mountains to the south of it lies the plain of
Denizli. All these high mountains are volcanic,
and the highest point of Khonas Dagh appears
to have been the crater of a volcano.

The country to the east and north-east of the
Lycus is very parched and barren ; no villages
appear in it, but the black Yourouk tents are
at this season thickly scattered over it. When-
ever we passed near any of them the fine and
powerful shepherd dogs would bound fiercely
towards us, but their masters were most careful
in calling them off. Nowhere, indeed, had we
reason to complain of the peasants on this point.
On our way we met a large Yourouk family or
tribe en route for some other pasture ground.
They had thirty or forty camels, many cattle,
and some hundreds of sheep and goats ; they
were well dressed, and some of the men mounted
on good horses ; their women (who did not wear
a veil as most of the Muslim women) were

■v^*^ ^■^

r-'' v<v

v^"o^

v^.

'"^^^^

^*vii!^^J*^

^sm^?^

STYLE OF TOMB STONES AT COLOSS/t.

THE THEAlRh OF hluRAPOLIS, 346 JEfci IN DTAMliTER.
(Only half the rows 0/ seats m tht cavea are represented. )

ANATOLICA. 115

really good-looking. Altogether they seemed in
good circumstances ; their roving life enabling .
them to escape the exactions of the Government
officials better than the village peasants, who
are, in a manner, tied to the soil.* -

The ruins of Colossse (or rather the site of
Colossae, for of ruins we saw none deser\'ing the
title) are on the north side of the Lycus. By
mistake we had crossed the stone bridge, which
here spans the river, and were passing up the
south bank. Some shepherds whom we met
directed us to a spot where we could recross
the stream — here a deep and rapid torrent — by
a bridge which the Yourouks had made for the
passage of their cattle. It consisted of trunks
of trees laid across from two rocks on opposite
sides of the stream, and covered with brushwood
and earth. We dismounted, and crossed this frail
structure singly.

The river descends rapidly tlirough a narrow
valley, betw^een cliffs of chalk or limestone.
Though not so large or beautiful as the valley
of the Mosynus, this is a very picturesque spot,
and reminded me of the valley at the great
source of the Orontes, in the Anti-Lebanon.

We reached the site of Colossae at 1 1 A.M. It
is on the cliff, which here borders the river ; and

* In some provinces they cannot quit their villat^es without a
special permit — even their destination must be specified ; but in
the interior this rule is less strictlv enforced.

1 2

ii6 ANATOLICA.

exactly opposite to it, on the other side of the
Lycus, is a curious cairn or barrow. (We noticed
several similar artificial mounds in various parts
of Anatolia).

Nothing appears to be left of the town but a
number of rough lichen-covered blocks of lime-
stone and rock tombs, over which were placed
either massive stones or monuments, nearly all
of the same shape. We saw no remains of a
city wall, no theatre, and apparently no public
buildings of any importance — nothing but rude
limestone blocks scattered over a space of half
to three-quarters of a mile square. In this poor
upland valley, with a barren soil, and far out
of the route of traffic, Colossae could never have
been a place of much importance. Strabo,
however, says that they made good profits from
s/ their wool, which was of the same raven black
{ytopoi^r} x9^^ ^^ ^^ wool of Laodicea.

A bridge crosses the river, close to the barrow
above mentioned, and near it three streams
unite : one — the largest — flowing from east to west,
another, called the Ak Soo, from the north-east
(this is probably the head water of the Lycus,
and possesses strongly petrifying qualities) ; the

ANATOIJCA. 1 1 7

third falls in a considerable waterfall over the
south cliff. The rocky banks of the river are
full of tombs, but we nowhere saw a single
inscription, nor the slightest record of the old
town. While riding up the north bank of the
Tchorouk Soo we passed several petrified water-
courses like those of Hierapolis. Near the bridge
the whole north bank of the river seems to be
a deposit of the Ak Soo, and the stream, which
turns some overshot mills near the bridge, emits
a fetid odour of sulphuretted hydrogen — indeed
the whole country, for many miles round, seems
to abound with waters like those of Hierapolis.

We searched, with no better success than
previous travellers, for the spot in which Hero-
dotus says the Lycus disappears under ground
and again emerges after a course of about five
stadia (about half a mile), " ss x^Tpca yrjs h(^oixxujv

(Herod, vii., 30).

Hamilton, whose description is very exact,
supposes that this place was the narrow ravine
below the bridge, and that the Ak Soo once
entered the Tchorouk Soo there^ and not as now
above the bridge, and that the "chasma" was
simply a crust under which the river flowed,
formed by the constant deposit of the Ak Soo,
along the edge of the cliff till it met the similar
deposit of the stream, which (as before said) falls
over the cliff into the Tchorouk Soo on the south

iicS ANATOLIC A.

side. Yet it is not easy to see how this could
occur, for the streams would be diverted from
their course by the stone they themselves
deposited long before they could cover over a
ravine which, though narrow, is yet — relatively
to such an operation — wide. Doubtless lapse of
time, earthquakes, &c., have caused great changes
in the surface of the country here ; but, altogether,
this question of the "chasm" of the Lycus is
still one of the unsolved difficulties of ancient
geography. A bishop of Colossae (the last) is
mentioned under the reign of Manuel Comnenus
(a.d. I 143 — I 180).

The ride from Colossse up to Khonas is very
pretty. It passes through a belt of cultivated
and richly-wooded country, amidst trees of many
kinds — oak, walnut, ash, elm, vine, cherr}'', pear,
plum, and apricot. It is one of the few spots
we saw — out of the valley of the Mseander —
which seemed well planted with fruit trees. We
rode through shady lanes, passing many small
streams and fountains. At intervals w^ere antique
fragments, a few broken columns, or a piece of
roughly sculptured marble, but we did not obser\'e
any important remains, although doubtless part
of the city was on this side of the river.

Near Khonas itself the land is barren and
stony. We reached the village at 2.30 P.M., and
were lodged in the house of Ibrahim Aga, one
of the principal men of the place. The master

ANATOLIC A. 119

himself was absent ; his horse had been stolen,
and he was endeavouring to recover it.

The house was situated in a large courtyard
overshadowed by fine trees — plane and walnut.
On one side of it a fountain of excellent water
poured in plentiful stream into an old sarco-
phagus. In front was a tall wooden erection some-
thing like an election platform, but roofless and
dilapidated ; upon this visitors sat, under the
shade of the trees, and enjoyed pipes and con-
versation. The house itself consisted of one good-
sized room — low and dark — with the usual small
windows and low doorway, but well matted and
tolerably clean.

A negro slave waited upon us and showed us
every attention. While coffee was being served
— the first and indispensable point — the notables
of the village called to see us : at their head
Mustafa Effendi Almaluli, the Kadi of Khonas.
He was a man of some forty years, tall and thin,
with handsome, finely-cut features, and very
courteous and well-bred. After giving the neces-
sary orders for our comfort he retired, and soon
the rest of our visitors followed. We then went
out to see the village. There are no ancient
remains — only a deserted mosque on the side of
the hill ; and although we questioned our visitors
closely, we could obtain no certain information
as to any ruins in the neighbourhood — perhaps
the villagers neither knew nor cared about their

I20 ANATOLICA.

existence. Few travellers visit this retired spot,
but we heard that about two years before, two
Europeans had stayed a while in the village.
This was the only occasion on which I heard
the word " Giaour " (unbeliever), and then no
offence was meant. It was synonymous with
European. The position of the village at the
foot of Khonas Dagh is fine ; it is clean, well-
built, and healthy. But our hosts complained of
poverty, " their land was not productive " —
barakat yok ! ("there is no blessing!") — they
said. The majority of the people are Muslim,
but many Greeks live amongst them. As at
several other places, so here, I could not help
remarking the great beauty of the children,
especially one little girl of six or seven years,
most picturesquely attired, who was engaged
filling a pitcher at one of the many fountains
in the village. Her hair was of a beautiful flaxen
colour, and as she turned to look at the " Giaours "
with her bright blue ey^s, in which a kind of
tranquil surprise was evident, I thought I had
never seen a more perfect picture !

Towards sunset we returned to our lodging.
Visitors again dropped in, and Mustafa Effendi,
who was a native of Almalu, understanding that
we intended visiting Lycia, gave us some in-
formation as to the best routes, &c. He said
there was no fear of brigands in Lycia — this,
as will be seen, was not quite correct — but he

ANATOLIC A. 121

strongly advised us to take an escort through
the Kazik Pass, the route we were to follow on
the morrow. In reply to my inquiries for antique
coins, I was told that about eighteen months
back the Ottoman Government had sent men
round and collected all the antiquities, coins,
&c., which the villagers possessed. A few were
brought, but none worth buying, and the prices
asked were ridiculously high. On inquiring of
the village moollah, who was one of our visitors,
as to the state of education in the village, he
frankly confessed " it would be best to say that
of education there was none."

Our supper was sent from the " hareem " of
our host. It consisted of rice, soup, a dish of
stewed peas, another of beans, yaourt, and
pilaff, with flat cakes of unleavened bread.

After a long and desultory conversation our
visitors left us. The circle of their ideas was
limited, but they were intelligent and very polite.
Some of them were extremely fine and handsome
men.

May I St. — Up at 5 A.M. The kadi again came
to bid us adieu, and brought with him our escort, a
zaptieh (native policeman), and two of his own
servants, a negro and a fine young Turk. At
7.25 A.M. we started. The previous day had been
intolerably close and sultry, but clear ; to-day was
dull and gloomy. We might easily have imagined
ourselves in a mild, dull July morning in England.

122 ANATOLIC A.

At first our route was to the west, through a
beautifully wooded and grassy district filled with
birds and wild flowers, and like some neglected bit
of forest country in England.

At 9 A.M. we reached the entrance of the Kazik
Pass. It is a broad and well frequented road,
rising very gradually, and passing through a wide
valley in the mountains. There is but little wood,
except on the slopes of the hills, and the scenery
is far inferior to that of the Bedra Pass. As we
turned southwards we could distinguish Denizli in
the plain ; between us and it lay a number of
grassy hollows, fresh and green, only frequented
by the Yourouk shepherds.

Mount Khonas rose on our left, some 4,000 feet
without a break, its summit crowned with pines
and tipped with snow ; it was of that beautiful ash
colour already noticed in Mount Cadmus. Here
and there in the hills on our right were patches of
deep red soil, and below one of these lay the
village of Tchukour — as its name implies, a deep
hollow surrounded by high mountains. This
mountain basin was well cultivated, and to it the
road gradually ascended, and still ascended beyond
it, till we could feel the cold breeze coming over
the snow, which was at no great distance above
us. Just at the head of the pass our guides pointed
out a small lake on the left, thickly embosomed
in trees — a usual place of ambush for any robbers
who might be lurking in the neighbourhood.

ANATOLIC A. 123

After passing this our guards left us, and we
reached the summit of the pass by a steep rocky
path. We could still plainly see Hierapolis, which
lay due north from us, on the other side of the
plain.

After an hour's rest at the cafe a short descent
brought us into the plain of Karajuk [pron.
Karayouk).

This magnificent district — the ancient Cillanian
plain — extends in an unbroken level for nearly
fifty miles towards the south-east, to the base of
the mountains which form the northern limit of
Lycia.

It is watered by the Gerenis Tchai (Indus Amnis)
and its tributaries. This river, rising in the moun-
tains of Lycia, flows northwards and north-west
till within three or four hours of Karajuk Bazaar ;
then it turns suddenly to the south-west, and under
the name of Dolomon Tchai (Calbis) enters the sea
some forty miles west of Makri in a large, deep,
and rapid stream. Pliny (v., 2^) says that "the
Indus, rising in the Cibyratian mountains, receives
sixty perennial rivers and more than a hundred
torrents."

The cities of this district — Cibyra, Bubon, Bal-
bura, and ^noanda — formed a rich and powerful
confederation. Of these cities the first was able
alone to raise within six days the heavy con-
tribution exacted by the Roman Consul Alaulius
in 189 B.C., which amounted to 100 talents (nearly

124 ANATOLICA.

;^25,ooo) and 10,000 medimni of wheat (15,000
bushels).

The level of this plain is considerably above
even that of the plain of the Lycus ; for we had
now reached the great central plateau of Anatolia.
The temperature was sensibly colder. On every
side mountains were in sight, many still covered
with snow, and far in the south rose the high
ranges of Lycia.

Fine crops of grain and opium are grown here,
but a large portion of the soil is now either lying
fallow, or left uncultivated because of the heavy
taxes or high rent demanded. There are few
trees, very few villages, and no streams in this part,
but at intervals we passed large wells. The
apparatus for raising water is like the Egyptian
" shadoof." Two upright posts support upon a
pivot a long pole, to the extremity of which a brass
chain and bucket are attached. The low^er end of
the transverse pole, being heavy, serves to draw up
the water bucket when full. The subsoil of the
plain is very tenacious of water, and even a slight
rain disappears slowly. The plain is a tertiary
formation, and the chalk crops up, especially on its
south-west edge, in hills of considerable height.
In a few places occur igneous rocks [e.g., to the
east and north of Cibyra), and iron ore is plentiful.
The great mountain ranges around it are of lime-
stone. A dense haze hung over the plain, soon a
heavy thunderstorm burst over the pass we had

ANATOLIC A. 125

just left, and a cold, driving rain began to fall ; the
temperature was many degrees colder than we had
lately experienced, and we gladly sheltered our-
selves in the khan at Karajuk.

Karajuk Bazaar is a small village, containing
only about 200 residents. The number of passers-
by is, however, great. We met long trains of
camels, and many travellers on foot and on horse-
back, and at certain seasons of the year fairs are
held here, which are very numerously attended.

Near the khan are large sheds for sheltering the
camels and their loads. The khan itself is simply
a square yard, surrounded by a wall of unbaked
brick, and with a row of small one-storied chambers
along the sides of the square ; these have a flat
roof made of brushwood covered wath clay. The
chamber assigned to us had been plastered inside
with clay, which had fallen off in great part and
exposed the mud bricks of which the walls were
built. There was a small window, closed by two
boards — of course no glass — and the door as usual
low and narrow ; there were several chinks in the
wall, wide enough to insert the hand, and useful
now as ventilators ; but fortunately the roof was
good.

The khanji, a Greek who had been a seaman,
and had visited nearly all the ports in Anatolia,
knew a little Arabic, having lived a while in
Alexandria. He was very attentive, made us a
huge fire of pine logs, which was very acceptable,

126 ANATOLIC A.

prepared us a tolerable supper, and then favoured
us with his company to smoke a tchibouque or two
and drink a few cups of coffee. He said that
the country was in a very disturbed state : the
Kaimakam of Karajuk had been disgraced, by
orders from Stamboul, for some serious offence ;
the Medjlis (village council) had been dissolved,
and at present there was no authority in office.
He told us the usual tales about brigands, " that a
leading member of the Medjlis had been robbed
only a few days before, the people were lazy and
therefore poor, they were too fond of the chase,
and very ready to attack travellers," &c. Perhaps
his account was somewhat highly coloured ; still,
as the country we should pass through on the
morrow was wilder and more solitary than that
we had hitherto seen, and we should at all events
require a guide, we agreed to hire an armed Turk,
whom the khanji recommended, to accompany us
as far as Geunahi. The servant at the khan was
an Arab from Jaffa, who by some chance had
found his way to this out-of-the-way place. He
complained of the poor pay he received, of the cold
and inclement climate (" Kool hoo jebal," " it is all
mountain," he said) ; but he had married a woman
of the country and could not leave, though he
wished himself back again at his beloved Jaffa.
His delight at hearing his native tongue was
great.

Although our room was unpromising, the mats

ANATOLIC A. 127

were clean, there were no fleas for a wonder, and
we passed a tolerable night.

May 2nd. — At 8.45 a.m. we left Karajuk. Our
route was due east, up a narrow ravine, between
rounded hills covered with large loose boulders of
granite and sienite. These hills form the east
limit of the plain, and all this part consists of
granitic and sienitic formations. Further up the
valley, limestone, and limestone mixed with granite
ridges and boulders appear.

A small stream traverses the valley ; along it
the soil was cultivated, but not continuously ; by
far the greater part was waste or covered with
brushwood. After passing the small villages of
Auschar and Sertchalik, at 9.15 a.m. we reached
Geunahi, a large village at the foot of a conical
hill, on which a few magnificent pines were
growing. I never saw thinner or more wretched
crops than those around this village ; it seemed as
if they would not repay the cost of seed and
labour. The people are wretchedly poor ; even the
cemeteries, with their rough wooden monuments
instead of stone, show signs of poverty.

After passing Geunahi we ascended to a tract of
country, barren, rocky, and uninhabited, called the
Eschler Yailas. Even grass fails here ; there is
nothing but stunted woods of pine ; the whole
district is volcanic, and it seems as if a devouring
fire had passed over it.

At the very top of the ascent from Geunahi

128 ANATOLIC A.

there is a spot which looks like a veritable robbers'
trap : the track passes through a narrow opening
in the tufa rock to a small open space with high
and steep sides, and the only exit is by another
narrow opening like the former. Two or three
resolute men might easily rob a whole party if
they could but surprise them in this spot.

Nearly at the summit of the Eschler Yailas is a
guard-house ; its inmates could afford no pro-
tection in case of real danger, but on this lonely
tract it is pleasant to find a human habitation.

The zaptieh at the guard-house was a native of
Geunahi, and he confirmed our impression of the
poverty of the village and district. He said the
peasants could only afford to eat bread made from
"tchudar" [i.e.^ rye). Each person required for
the year's consumption about 350 Turkish piastres
worth of this (about;/j2 15s.) ; in addition to this is
the expense of their clothing, &:c. " The village
was heavily indebted," and once in the hands of
the money-lenders the villagers speedily sink into
the most wretched condition. They obtain w^hat
clothing, implements, &c., they require from the
native merchants of Aidin, Denizli, &c., who of
course make a charge in proportion to the risk
(2.^., much beyond the fair price).

The villagers pay as long as they have the
power ; for the Turk is really an honest man.
When the creditor finds that his debtor can pay no
more he generally applies to the authorities, and

ANATOLICA. 129

the defaulter is imprisoned ; but when at last it is
evident that nothing more can possibly be obtained
of the man he is released.

An attempt had been made by the Government
to afford relief by the establishment of agricultural
banks in various districts, which should make
adv mces to the peasants at a lower interest than
the very exorbitant rate demanded by the Arme-
nia: money-lenders ; but it had failed. In general
the beginning of monetary troubles in a Turkish
village is inability to pay the Government taxes,
owi g to failure of the crops, &c. The poor people
hav« then no other resource but application to a
mon 3y-lender ; and once embarked in this unfor-
tunate course the villagers are always in a state of
pove'ty. This perhaps accounts for the striking
contiast often to be seen between two neighbouring
villages — the one is indebted, the other free from
debt.

A few hundred yards from the guard-house we
crossed the highest point in the yaila, and saw
below us in a deep hollow surrounded by well
wooded hills of no great height the salt lake of
Salda (or Salta), with the village of Salda at its
west end ; Kaiadeveh (the village indicated in
Kieppert's map) is at its east end. The waters of
the lake have the same bluish metallic lustre that
all salt lakes present, and a plentiful incrustation
of salt has formed all round the edge of the
water.

I30 ANATOLIC A.

The road, which is very good, descends nearly to
the level of the water ; then passing Kaiadeveh on
the left, it rises to a high plateau. Here another
great plain opens, only half cultivated, without
trees, and surrounded by bare hills. On the left
were the Yalanlish mountains, and far in front rose
the snowy top of Dauruz Dagh, the mountain above
Sparta.

At 2.35 P.M. we halted at Karaatlu, a small vil-
lage in a hollow of the plain built in the midst of a
group of Dolomite limestone rocks, which here
project in white masses from the in general level
surface.

We were entertained in the house of " Karaatluli
Hadji Omer Zadeh Ali Aga," the Kadi of Karaatlu.

Our host was not so handsome as the Kadi of
Khonas, but he was dignified and courteous and
seemed much respected by the people of the
village. His house, which was the best we had yet
seen, was of unbaked brick raised upon a stone
foundation, and consisted of a spacious inner room
ceiled with pine planks, which were supported by
extremely fine round beams of pine. The floor
was well matted ; there were carpets, and large
cushions to rest upon. The fireplace was spacious,
and round the walls hung weapons of various
kinds, amongst them some fine old Arnaout flint
guns. There were some attempts at ornamenta-
tion— a clock, flowers, &c., were rudely painted
upon the walls in red, yellow, green, and blue.

ANATOLIC A. 131

From the road outside six or seven steps led up to
a wide wooden stage, upon which the door of the
reception room ("salaamlik") opened. On a level
with this stage, and not separated from it, was a
spacious summer room ; its roof was supported
by fine beams of pine, but its sides were open.
Throughout all this district it is the custom to live
during the warm season in such a summer room,
for in the cool pure air of this high plateau flies
and mosquitoes are seldom troublesome. Some of
these open rooms are really handsome in their
way. Attached to this outer room is a large
balcony extending several feet over the roadway,
and it is here that the master of the house and his
friends sit during fine weather. Nearly all the
houses in this part of Anatolia are formed more or
less upon a similar plan. I need not say that the
women's part of the house (" hareem ") is quite
separate, and that no stranger can enter it.

After taking the customary cup of coifee we fell
into conversation with our host. He said their
village only contained about 150 people; their
land was good, but although surrounded by moun-
tains they suffered much at times from drought.
Last year the crop of opium was large and of good
quality, but this year no rain had fallen at the
favourable season. The wheat harv^est begins at
about our month of August. In winter the cold is
intense, deep snow lying over the whole country.
Their village had two men serving in the army;

K 2

132 ANATOLIC A.

sometimes they supplied more. He assured us
that there were no brigands in all that district — the
forests were not extensive ; and on these wide open
plains cavalry can act with effect, so that brigands
have less chance here than in the thickly-wooded
districts further west.

The magnificent beams of pine wood in his
house gave me occasion to ask about the forests ;
V he said that no care whatever was taken of them,

but that so rapid and plentiful was the growth of
the pine forest in the mountains that he did not
think the supply likely to fall short. He had to
bring his firewood from a mountain, at about one
hour's distance ; any one might freely take what
he required, and if building timber is needed a
woodman is sent, who marks on the bark the name
of the man for whom it is intended, and then fells
the tree. He thought that there would be great
difficulty in enforcing the rules of the Forest
Administration, lately established at Constanti-
nople, for the feeling of the whole country was
opposed to any restriction in the use of the forests.
I afterwards heard the same thing at Constanti-
nople ; a great disturbance even had been caused
in various places on the north coast of Anatolia by
an attempt to prevent the villagers from exercising
their right of "foresting," a privilege they had
enjoyed from time immemorial. And yet, if this
country should be at all opened up by railways and
roads, it will be absolutely necessary for the

ANATOLICA. 133

Government to take in hand the management of
the forests.

Already the export of timber from some ports
is large, and when the demand becomes great,
however well wooded a country may be its forests
are soon exhausted, unless care be taken to protect
and replant. In the course of last summer the
Levant Times — a Constantinople journal — contained
notice of a terrible fire that had broken out in the
forests on the mainland near Rhodes, and said
that it rivalled in extent the great fires in America,
for it extended from Boudroun to Marmarice, a
distance of seventy miles. I know not if this be
correct or not. Again, in 1873 a very large extent
of forest along the banks of the Jyhoun in Cilicia
was destroyed in the same way. The shepherd
tribes burn the dry grass in autumn in order to
obtain fresh pasturage, and thus the forest often
takes fire, and immense mischief is done.

Nor is the mischief limited to the mere destruc-
tion of the wood. In these southern regions the
disappearance of forest is inevitably followed by
drought, till — as in most of the Greek islands and
throughout nearly the whole of Syria and Pales-
tine— there is a chronic scarcity of water and rain,
which every few years causes a famine.

We sat smoking and talking, and dreadfully
hungry, till at length our supper appeared. First,
a number of deep copper dishes (casseroles) were
brought in containing the food ; these were placed

134 ANATOLICA.

near the fire ; next, a low stool (khursi) — the native
table ; upon this was placed a large round copper
tray (sunneeah), a copper pot of soup, and a
number of flat cakes of unleavened bread ; some
wooden spoons and a few green onions were laid
round the tray, and we sat down to our meal. It
consisted of a dish of stewed peas, a dish of
poached eggs, served up with tomatas and yaourt
slightly flavoured with garlic (and very palatable),
a pilaff, and some sweet thickened milk. The sup-
per was good, but it was rather embarrassing to be
surrounded by fifteen or twenty people all curiously
watching our awkward attempts at eating in the
native style, and yet all perfectly polite. After we
had eaten, the attendants finished what was left of
the supper, a large closet in the wall was opened,
some "yorghans" (quilted coverlets of cotton) were
brought out, and we lay down upon them on the
floor to sleep.

CHAPTER VIII.

Rock Carvings at Karaatlu— Dangers of Wealth in Turkey — The
Poppy — Opium— Village of Naoulo— Lake of Yarishli— View —
Inscription over the Village Fountain — Lacina— Statue near the
Lake — Appearance of Country— Beauty of View over the Lake of
Buldour — Village of Yarakeui — The Villagers — Inscription in the
Cemetery — Yasakeui — Rich Colour of Cliffs and Soil — Buldour —
Khan — Our Evening Meal — Environs of the Town— Guschla —
Tchartchin — Volcanic Formation — Rich Colour of Soil — A Yaila
— Yaraseen— Road through Volcanic Hills to Sparta — Plain of
Sparta — Government PoHce (Zaptieh) — Pambouk Khan — Mosque
— Greek Schools — Greek not spoken here till quite lately —
An Antique Statue from Cibyra (Horzoom) — How Sparta was
Founded — Its Thriving Appearance— Mines in the District —
Want of Roads — Railroad might easily be made — We are
Summoned before the Governor — Greek Church — Good Houses —
Pretty Situation of the Town — Improvement in the Behaviour of
the Turks to Christians — Wealth of People — Climate — Crops —
Expense of Transport — Instance — A Railway Projected from
Sparta to Adalia — Bargaining of Orientals — Earthenware Plates.

May 3rd. — We left Karaatlu at 6.5 a.m. As we
were starting the villagers pointed out to us some
coarse bas-reliefs, on a crystalline white limestone
rock in the village, consisting of two tall standing
figures, but so much defaced and worn that we
could make nothing of them. It was evidently not
Greek work, and I concluded that it was of the
same nature, perhaps of the same age, as the
rock carvings at Eujuk, near Yeuzgatt, which Mr.

136 ANATOLIC A.

Hamilton describes, and which he thinks were
Lydian work.

We learnt that our host had just been released
from a forty days' arrest at Buldour. He was the
Government "menzilji'' (postmaster), and in a
dispute with some one who had injured his horses
had beaten the man severely. The Governor of
Buldour had referred the matter to the Governor of
Kirk Aghadj, and our host had been released ; but
during his arrest his post had been given to
another.

A rich man in Turkey is always exposed to the
exactions of the Government officials, and should
he in the least point transgress the law he is
unmercifully " squeezed." In the old times, before
Tanzimat and publicity became the order of the
day in Turkey, his life was as much at the mercy
of the officials as his fortune. At Aidin several
fearful stories were related to us of the cruelty of
Hafiz (or Tahir ?) Pasha, who was deposed in 1840
by Sultan Mahmoud. Fortunately even in these
remote districts of the empire such cruelty as that
of this man is now almost impossible, although
it cannot be denied that grievous injustice and
oppression is of common occurrence.

Our course was due east over the plain, which

was covered with fine crops of young wheat and

poppy. In this elevated district the latter is not

yet in bloom, but in the more sheltered valleys the

^ fields were gay with its flowers, which were of white

ANATOLIC A. 137

and lavender or deep slate colour. It is a some-
what precarious crop ; cold weather at seed time
injures both quantity and quality of the drug ; rain
falling after the incision has been made in the seed
vessel, washes off the milky sap before it has
coagulated, and great care is required in scraping
off the opium when dry ; this is done by the
women and children of the villages.

Two hours' ride brought us to the village of
Naoulo. From the high ground near the village is
a fine prospect of the lake of Yarishli, with water
of the deepest blue, and beyond it range after
range of mountains, till the view was closed by
Dauruz Dagh, covered half way down from its
summit with snow. From Naoulo we descended
into the deep depression in which the lake lies, and
passed through Yarishli. The village fountain is
surmounted by a cornice of close-grained lime-
stone, bearing a long inscription, but much of it is
illegible.

The people of the village told us that at the west
end of the lake stood a statue with its arm ex-
tended, but even had their information been less
vague, to visit it would have taken us far out of our
way.

They even pointed out the spot where the figure
stood ; but though we carefully examined the
whole neighbourhood with the telescope we could
perceive nothing of what they mentioned.

The old town of Lacina was in this place, and, as

138 ANATOLIC A.

usual, there were a few columns, &c., in the
Cemetery ; but we neither saw nor heard of other
remains, and only stopped long enough to copy
the following inscription. Great part of the first
line is quite illegible : —

LINE

I. nACIKAI . .. TONAIAMONH .... inNMETI
...TXlNKPIAHN...NnAA...NTO...

2.EOTHPOMATP ANXaNEINOT.

3. NEAC HPAC lOTMAC (rest illegible) K A I TON
.... A I C.

4. CYNnANTOCOIKOTTX^NCEBACTnNKAI
lEPACCYrKAHTOTKAIAHMOYTOYPXlMAinN
EniAN©YnATOYTOYAAMri POTATO Y.

5. TAPIOYTITIANOYTHTAYKYTATHnATP

lAITilNTAKINEXlMAHMnMETAnACACAP(x)
ACTEKAIAEITOYPriACKAIAIAnOPITION
{T AK I N EaU pro A A K I N E n N ?)

6. nPECBIACACHN(Y)CENEni0EONKOMUO
AONTPYOXlNAnOAAUNIAOYYnOCKOMENOC
AnOnPOIKOCIAAOCOYIN {J>ro 0 Y T A ?)

7. TPOCIAIACHPnAOCnPOC4>IAOTEIUHC
AMENOCMETATHCrYNAIKOCAMUINEAAOY
KAIEICTONBACIAXITHC.

8. 0YrATPOCA...nNAOTONEniTnKAIAYT
ACAIABIOYMETEXEINEK T E AECTO BAAAN E
lONHAPEAnKEN.

Many of the letters are much defaced. As nearly
as I could make out this is the inscription. Much
is quite illegible, and it was not easy to examine

ANATOLICA. 139

owing to the position of the stone and the intense
sunlight.

It records the dedication of a bath to his " dear
native place " — the Demos of Lacina — by a certain
Tryphon, the son of Apollonides, who had borne
sundry public charges and duties — amongst others
apparently a deputation to the Emperor Commodus.
He gives the bath " complete/' with the consent of
various relatives, on condition that they should
" have the use of it during their life." The date of
the inscription is A.D. 211 — 217, during the reign of
the Emperor Caracalla.

On mounting the hill at the east end of the lake
we entered a wide sterile plain, bordered by low
rocky hills quite bare of vegetation ; and here
commenced a tract of country such as we had not
yet seen. There were at rare intervals a few
scanty patches of wheat, but most of the ground
was covered with bitter or aromatic herbs, which
scarcely afforded pasturage for a few miserable
sheep. No village was in sight, but on reaching
the highest point in the plain we had a magnificent
prospect. Below us was the lake of Buldour,
encircled by ranges of mountains, one behind the
other, and at its extremity one of the snow moun-
tains we had seen from Karaatlu — Borlu Dagh.
It was a lovely sight, and we stopped involuntarily
to look at it. The foreground was the plain,
covered with pale, dull green or yellow herbage ;
then the patches of white clay and shining salt at

I40 ANATOLIC A.

the nearer end of the lake ; next the gardens and
walnut and poplar trees of Yarakeui ; then ranges
of mountains, sinking downwards towards the
lake in most beautiful outlines — a fitting frame to
the deep blue waters. The bright sunlight seemed
to throw a faint haze over all, and yet the colour-
ing was wonderful ! Some of the mountains were
violet, with great patches of carmine, showing the
presence of the red loam so often mentioned ;
masses of deeper violet marked the pine forest on
the mountain sides ; one range immediately under
Borlu Dagh had no trees on its summit, and it
appeared of a pale rose tint ; the glittering snow-
topped peak, some fifty miles distant, towered
above all. Every day has disclosed some variety
of beautiful scenery in this wonderful country —
there is no monotony; but so far as regards colour
the district we passed through to-day surpasses
all ! The nearer hills and mountains are bare
of trees, the soil is sterile and not a tenth of it
cultivated, but the colouring surpassed anything I
could have imagined.

We rested an hour in the village of Yarakeui, at
the " strangers' room " (musafiir odasy), and nearly
all the male inhabitants of the village came to
look at us. They stared, and yet they were very
polite ; they made us coffee, for which they refused
all payment. One old peasant was spinning string
from flax fibres. I examined his string, and in
return he timidly examined my riding gaiters.

ANATOLICA. 141

*' Yawuz ! Yawuz ! " (excellent) he exclaimed. Our
interpreter told him that the ornamental sewing
was the work of young ladies, at which there was
a general laugh. But when I explained that not
only such things but even boots and clothing were
sewn by machinery, they seemed to enter into the
idea, although they could not have seen, scarcely
even have heard of, a sewing machine.

On inquiring for antique coins, one man said,
with a laugh, they " could not get modern coins,
much less ancient." Though evidently very poor,
they were clean. I noticed one quite in rags, but
his clothing was of exemplary cleanness. It is
true the women do most of the work !

At 12.30 P.M. we left Yarakeui. In passing
through the Cemetery I copied from a column the
following well preserved inscription : —

KA-nGAAFIAE

THC KATACKGTHC

TOT MNHMGIOT nPONOI

AN nOIHCAMGNOT KAA

AIKAGOTC AIC TOT TG

NOMSNOT ANAPOC
^ ATTHC. ^

Arundel reads " ^Is- v\ov yz\oixivov " — probably
correctly. Colonel Leake explains this inscription
(thus read) in the following manner : — (" The
monument) of Claudia Pelagia, constructed by

142 ANATOLIC A.

Callicles, who was doubly the son of her husband "
— I. e.^ the father of Callicles married Pelagia, after
which Callicles married the daughter of Pelagia
by a former husband. But I read the inscription
as written here, viz., Vis rou ysvofji^evov.

The road passed through a pretty shady lane
to Yasakeui. The two villages were not more
than a mile and a half apart, but the latter seemed
much the more prosperous, and is cleaner and
better built. Having passed through the village
near the Government house (Beylik Konak), we
rode along a small muddy stream which ran
towards the left, and, keeping close to the lake, we
crossed another stream by an angular wooden
bridge with stone piers. Here the rocks approach
close to the lake, only leaving room for the road.

I noticed the rich colour of one cliff, which dis-
played five or six shades of red and yellow, some
very pale ash, and some cream colour ; and close
to it was a rock almost carmine ! The blue of the
sky was in brilliant contrast with the yellow cliff.
All this district is of volcanic formation, and the
hills are of a pale cream colour, and formed of soft
tufa, which is washed down in great quantity by
the rains. Soon after 3 P.M. we reached the
guard-house, built in the midst of a group of
rounded white limestone rocks.

At 5 P.M. we entered Buldour, a large and well
built town situated in a recess at the foot of tufa
hills, which rise high above it.

ANATOLIC A. 143

As we passed along the streets to the khan the
people stopped to gaze at us, and our interpreter
said their remarks were far from complimentary.
The town has eight mosques ; perhaps this may
have had something to do with their dislike to
Christians — if, indeed, they have any — but a
European traveller is a rarity here, and whatever
they may have said they were not outwardly rude.
I noticed here also the number and healthy
appearance of the children. Many were of extreme
beauty, their complexion generally blonde, eyes
almost always fine, teeth beautifully white, and
with a very intelligent look. The khan was good,
but the khanji at first not very civil. However,
our muleteer, Mehmet, soon brought him to
reason, and he gave us a good room, and even
found us some quilted coverlets (" yorghans "),
necessary at night in this pure, bracing atmo-
sphere.

There was no meat or pilaff to be had, so the
usual dish of eggs was served up, followed by
raisin sherbet cooled with snow, with a few raisins
left at the bottom, and called "koshaf." We
finished our repast with yaourt and a sweet dish
called " tahhunn," made of " pekmez " [i.e., inspis-
sated grape juice) flavoured with sesame oil. Our
bread, of excellent quality, was not the usual
round flat cake, but oval and much thicker.

May 4th.— We left Buldour at 8.35 A.M. The
streets of the town are paved with large stones ;

144 ANATOLIC A,

the houses are well and solidly built ; the bazaars
well stocked. Judging from th6 size of the town it
may contain 15,000 to 18,000 people, and it seems
a busy, thriving place. Our road was towards the
east, along the base of the tufa hills, which over-
hang and almost surround the town. The gardens
of Buldour stretch along the shore of the lake to
the left, but they are not extensive, as the soil soon
becomes salt, large patches of salt appearing at
the east end of the lake. To the north and east
stretches the plain of Ketchi Bourlou. Heavy
clouds cast a violet hue over the mountains, and
these were reflected from the motionless surface of
the lake as from a mirror.

At Guschla, the first village we passed, we again
saw the cypress, a tree we had not observed since
we left the Mseander valley. Guschla is built of
stone, but all the villages from Kaiadeveh east-
wards to this place are of unbaked brick. There
are few antiquities in this neighbourhood. A few
fluted columns, some of them of coloured marble,
are in the Cemetery of Buldour ; and at Eski Yerrah
(9.55 A.M.) there was on the roadside a hollowed
stone, now used as a drinking trough. It bore the
Greek shield and lance on one side, on the other a
vase and a flambeau or quiver.

In the Cemetery was a plinth bearing in front a
female bust, and on one side a triple bunch of
grapes ; but the inscription was illegible.

The village possesses two mosques ; one shaded

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ANATOLIC A. 145

by a magnificent poplar, and with an abundant
fountain in front.

At 10.35 A.M. we reached Tchartchin, and turned
into the hills on our right. Here the torrents had
cut very deep channels in the loose soil ; and this
not being homogeneous, but formed of a mixed
mass of substances, the waters had forced a passage
through it in a strange way, leaving high detached
pinnacles of harder substance. The loose soil,
which is carried down in great abundance to the
plain, is of soft clay filled with pebbles.

On the east side of Tchartchin I observed a ridge
of rock of a deep rich carmine colour, and in the
cliffs near it were beds of dark grey tufa inter-
mingled with horizontal strata of sandstone. In
one bank cut by a torrent the earth displayed four
or five shades of lake, carmine, olive, and many
shades of ash colour. Ridges and detached peaks
of whitish limestone projected through all, and the
hills above us were tossed one above another in
the wildest confusion. At some remote age a
tremendous volcanic eruption had taken place in
this immediate neighbourhood.

After a very steep ascent to the summit of a hill
we reached at 11 A.M. a small "yaila,"*a level

* This is the general name for the mountain pastures and elevated
basins in the highlands of the interior. Even in the great heat of
summer the air in these districts is bracing, and at night even cold.
Many of them are of great extent, and afford pasture all through the
summer ; others are well cultivated. The literal meaning of the word
*'yaila"is "a summer encampment." Most of the villages on the

146 ANATOLIC A.

grassy spot at the top of the mountain path,
watered by a clear streamlet. The air here was
bracing, even cold, and we had a fine view of
Dauruz Dagh towering above all the mountains
round it, and never free from snow.

At 11.55 A-M- we began to descend, and at the
foot of the mountain passed the village of Yara-
seen. It lay under the hills to our right, sur-
rounded by poplars and walnuts not yet in leaf.
The hills were rounded and barren. Everywhere the
soil was a light tufa dust ; and I observed a large
column of dust fully 200 feet in height carried
along by a whirlwind. We were now on the high
road to Sparta or Isbarta (the ancient Baris) —
descending through a narrow winding ravine in
the chalk-like tufa hills. Everywhere along our
course were tufa and lava of the most varied
tints, and near the village of Lawuz was a large
quantity of trachyte.

At 2.45 P.M. we emerged on the plain of Sparta,
which on that side was barren, but below ex-
tremely fertile, producing fine crops of grain.
V Like all the plains in Anatolia it is surrounded by

lofty mountains — those on our right, like the
heights we had passed, pointed volcanic peaks of
all shades of colour. Above them rose the snowy
chain of Aghlasun ; Dauruz was in Iront, and

coast and in the low plains have a corresponding " yaila," to which
they emigrate every summer, and which bears the name of the village —
e.g.^ Seydeleer yailasy — literally, " Seydeleer its yaila."

ANATOLICA. 147

Borlu Dagh, which we had seen from Naoulo, lay
to the north-east.

As in the morning, the mountains and the plain
were covered with the most beautiful tints. Indeed
the whole country east from Karajuk presents
quite a different aspect from that on the coast,
and, in its way, is equally or even more beautiful.
Vegetation is still backward in this elevated
district. We rode into Sparta with one of the
Government zaptiehs. It seems that the new
Grand Vizier*, Mahmoud Pasha, is determined, if
possible, to put down brigandage, and has greatly
increased the number of zaptiehs. The Govern-
ment provides these men with horses, weapons,
and uniform, and they receive 300 Turkish piastres
(about -£2 I OS.) per month. Living is very
cheap, and a tolerable horse only costs 800
piastres.

We alighted at the Pambouk khan, which did
not look inviting, and proved to be the dirtiest and
most wretched in which we had yet sojourned. In
front of it is a fine mosque — fine, that is, for
Anatolia — with a cloister of pointed arches, and
having its roof covered with sheets of metal.

In the evening we called upon a Greek gentle-
man who resides here (Mr. Shere^f-ed-din-Oglou),
to whom I had an introduction from the Imperial

* Since this was written the Sultan has changed his Ministers, not
once, but many times. A few months was the average duration in
office of a Grand Vizier.

L 2

148 ANATOLIC A.

Ottoman Bank at Smyrna. He was from home,
but we were received most kindly by his father,
who, like all the elderly people in Sparta, could
only speak Turkish. About eighteen months ago
Greek schools were opened in Sparta to teach the
rising generation their ancestors' language. These
schools are very well attended, and the younger
Greeks can in consequence now speak Roumaic :
but I was told that the Greek Bishop of Adalia is
opposed to them, as thinking they will corrupt
the orthodoxy of his people.

We waited a long time for Mr. S. junior. Mastic
(raki) and rahat lokoum (the Turkish sweetmeat)
were offered, and we sat smoking and beguiling
the time by trying to keep up a conversation in
Turkish. At length we returned to our wretched
quarters, where we had left our interpreter suffering
from an attack of fever. With some difficulty we
induced him to take a strong dose of quinine,
which happily relieved him for the time ; but he
never quite lost the fever, and on our return to
Aidin we left him there sick.

The attentions of the khanji a little reconciled
us to the khan.

May 5th. — We had intended to start early, but
Mr. S. came and very kindly pressed us to accept
his hospitality. Accordingly we went to his house,
where again coffee, mastic, sweetmeats, and to-
bacco were offered. Mr. S. is a most agreeable
and well-informed man. He speaks French with a

ANATOLIC A. 149

little hesitation, but well, and with a good accent,
having received his education at Smyrna. He
brought us to the house of a neighbour to show
a statue from Horzoom (Cibyra), which its pos-
sessor had bought for two Turkish liras (about
£1 I2S.) It is a young and graceful male figure,
about two feet and a half in height, standing, with
long wings, and holding in one hand an eggy in
the other something like a small cup inverted.
It had been broken, but was stuccoed together :
though not without merit, it is not of very fine exe-
cution. It seems to represent the genius of Birth.
Next we called at the house of an old Greek
gentleman near the river. He, too, could only
speak Turkish, but he gave us a history of the
foundation of Sparta : that it was colonised by a
party of Spartan emigrants, under their king, who
had been expelled from the Peloponnesus in a
civil war. I know not what authority there may
be for this particular account, but there seems to
have been considerable settlements of Laconians in
this neighbourhood. Strabo expressly says that
the great city of Selge was founded first by
Chalchas (no doubt the legendary account), after-
wards by the Lacedaemonians.

Isbarta is either upon or near the site of Baris,
and Lucas* was told that extensive ruins, probably
of old Isbarta, existed at a place called Dourdan,

* A French traveller who made three veiy extensive journeys in
Asia Minor in the years 1705, 1706, and 1715.

I50 ANATOLICA.

in the mountains to the west of the present city.
I noticed very few remains of afitiquity in Sparta,
but the town seems a modern thriving place, and
such towns are not favourable to the preservation
of ancient monuments.

We returned to a dinner alia Franca, at which
we were waited on by our host's younger brother
and sister, this being the patriarchal custom in
families here ; also, it may be intended to show
special attention to guests.

We tasted some of the wine of the country, but
it is not of good quality ; on the other hand, the
mastic was excellent.

Our host told us in course of conversation that
there is a coal mine near Buldour, but unworked ;
there are also various other mines in the same
neighbourhood. A railway would be of the
greatest advantage to that district, and there
would be no great natural difficulty in the way of
extending the Smyrna and Aidin Raihvay to
Sparta, as the line of country to be traversed has
no great mountain chains, these for the most part
lying parallel to the proposed route ; indeed,
nearly all the way from Aidin to Sparta the
country is level or rises gradually, although, of
course, the elevation of Sparta above the sea is
considerable (3,250 feet).

Wood is scarce here, and in consequence char-
coal is burned ; this is brought from forests at a
considerable distance.

ANATOLICA. 151

On returning to the khan we found that a
messenger had been sent to summon us before the
Governor, in order to show our passports and
"explain what was our object in thus wandering
about the country."

The Governor, it seems, is a man of the old
school — a somewhat bigoted Muslim. Accordingly
taking with us our travelling firmans, we went to
the Governor's audience room ; but we did not
find it necessary to produce them ; we were
received politely enough by the officials, and our
passports (teskery) alone proved sufficient. "Khosh
geldiniz, safa geldiniz " (" you are welcome,'') said
the secretary, and the interview was soon over.
We did not see the Governor, he having gone to
pay a visit to Hussein Avni Pasha, ex-Minister of
War, who is exiled here on a charge of malversa-
tion.*

He is said to lead a very comfortable life, and has
not been deprived of his property, although exile
from Stamboul is a sad infliction to a Turk of high
rank. I afterwards heard that he is a very
polished and agreeable man, and that the charge
against him was a mere political manoeuvre.

We were then taken to see the new Greek
Church, which presents nothing remarkable.
During our walk we noticed many very good

* He has long since been recalled, and even nominated to a post in
the Administration. He is now (1874) Grand Vizier. Such are the
vicissitudes of Turkish official life.

152 ANATOLIC A.

houses. A large part of the town was burnt
about three years ago, and a new quarter, of ex-
tremely well-built stone houses, is rising on the
site of the fire.

The position of the town is really pretty — it is
built on the slope of a long hill, and almost every
street is traversed by a brook. A number of well
kept gardens and groves of fine trees — especially
along the sides of the torrent, which rises in the
heart of the Aghlasun mountains and flows down
through the town — give a great charm to the place.
The population consists of about 150 Armenian
families, about 3,500 Greeks, and from twelve to
fifteen thousand Osmanlis. The latter were for-
merly very bigoted and intolerant. Our host said
that a few years ago he could seldom enter the
bazaar (market) or pass through the streets without
being insulted ; now, however, matters are quite
changed, but he attributed the improvement en-
tirely to fear.

There are no large fortunes in Sparta — there are
no great risks and no great gains in business there
— and two, three, five, or at most ten thousand
pounds are the " fortunes " of Sparta.

Our host praised the climate. Cholera had
never reached the town, and fever is rare. Vegeta-
bles and fruit, especially apples, come to great
perfection. The export consists chiefly of wheat,
of which a large quantity is sent to Adalia on
camels. The cost of transport is of course thus

ANATOLICA. 153

rendered enormous.* Wheat, which will fetch at
the seaports from TP. 25 to TP. 30 per " kyla,"
may be bought in the interior for from TP. 6 to
TP. 8 per"kyla."

The temperature is very cold in winter, owing to
the great snow-covered mountain ranges in all
directions, but in summer the climate must be
exquisite.

Mr. Wood had mentioned to us when we saw
him at Ephesus the reputed discovery of an im-
portant ancient city a day's journey north of
Sparta ; but the account of it had been much
exaggerated, for our host, who had himself dis-
covered it, said that it presented nothing remark-
able. We parted from our hospitable friend with
regret.

At the khan we had a curious instance of the
way in which Orientals transact business. We
required a few common earthenware plates, but

* The " Koniah," a Turkish journal of- Constantinople (July, 1873),
mentions that a staff officer of the Ottoman army had been appointed
to examine the country between Ad alia and Isbarta with a view to the
construction of a railway between these two towns. The journal
declares that "if this design be carried out it will be absolutely
necessary to improve the harbour of Adalia, which is at present bad
and inconvenient." Of course there may be other and more practica-
ble passes in the mountains, but by the route we came it would be
well nigh impossible to carry a railway ; and such is the nature of the
whole country that the expense would be enormous whatever route
were taken. One would think that in that district at least a plain road
would be preferable ; but there seems, as before said, no great difficulty
in caiTying a line from Aidin to Isbarta, and so on through the interior.
Surveying parties are exploring many districts by order of Government
with a view to the future construction of railways.

154 ANATOLICA.

the shopman demanded at the rate of is. 2d. each
for them, and I afterwards bought exactly the
same plates in the bazaar for about 3d. each. The
far-famed willow pattern is not here to be seen.
Almost all the trade of the place is in the hands
of Greeks, and they, like true Hellenes, only im-
port earthenware bearing the portraits of King
George and his Queen.

CHAPTER IX.

Suburb of Sparta — Pass through Volcanic Hills — Strange Formation
of Strata — Yaila at Foot of Aghlasun Mountains —Ascent of the
Mountain Chain — Fine View from the Summit — Steepness of the
Mountain — Paul Lucas on Ruins of Sagalassus— Ruined Temple
and Fort in the Pass — Village of Aghlasun — Ravine leading up
to the Site of Sagalassus — Position of the Ancient City — Rock
Tombs in Perpendicular Cliff behind the City — Ruin of a Large
Christian Church — Site of Great Temple — Agora — Portico —
Another Temple — Great variety of Columns — Theatre — Fine
Subterranean Corridor — Architecture and Ornamentation of
Buildings — Thunder Storm — All Antiquities taken by the
Government — Notices of Sagalassus and the Pisidian Race — Their
Language — Government — Arrian's Account of the Capture of
Sagalassus by Alexander the Great — Strabo's Account of Selge —
Livy's Account of the Expedition of C. Manlius Vulso into
Pisidia — Submission of Sagalassus — Strabo's Notice of the City.

May 6th. — Left Sparta at 7.25 a.m. A pretty
suburb extends all along the steep hill slopes
above the town up to the foot of the mountains,
and all this space is covered with gardens and
vineyards, for the vine flourishes well in this
volcanic soil. A shady lane bordered by fine trees
led to the mill and village of Dere Maalleh. Here
we entered the mountains by the narrow rocky
ravine down which the torrent flows towards
Sparta. The road led towards south-west up the
bed of the river, whose waters foamed over huge
boulders that had rolled down into it from the

156 ANATOLICA.

heights above. The sides of the ravine were in
some parts high hills of light cream coloured tufa
(like the volcanic hills we had passed through
between Buldour and Sparta), through which pro-
jected ridges of limestone and marble ; and round
each little projecting peak a heap of the finest
dust had gathered, which was dispersed in clouds
by the slightest puff of wind. In other places
great rocks and cliffs of trachyte rose high and
steep on either side ; far above towered the red
peaks of the mountain chain. In some parts the
strata had been cut through by the river and left
standing in abrupt banks, in others the soft dusty
soil had been washed away and the harder sub-
stances left bare, thus forming high cliffs and rocks
often several hundred feet in height. In one place
I observed a pinnacle fifty or sixty feet high, just
like a gigantic pin ! In several places the rocks
nearly met, scarcely leaving room for the passage
of the stream when the rains and snows of winter
have swelled its waters. The torrent itself, which
we were obliged to cross continually, lay at a vast
depth, as if in some deep cutting ; in the course of
ages it has forced itself a way through all this
strangely jumbled mass of volcanic substances,
around and amid which it winds in the strangest
fashion. The length of this singular ravine from
its entrance at Dere Maalleh to the foot of the
main chain of Aghlasun is from six to seven miles,
or even more. We noticed the remains of a

ANATOLICA.

bridge and what seemed to be the ruins of a small
fort when about half way through the pass.

At 9.30 A.M. we reached a small yaila at the
foot of the pass over Aghlasun. Here a number
of men appeared on the ridge far off to our right
and began to advance towards us. The agility
and ease with which they descended the steep face
of the mountain were very striking, but before
they could come up with us we were already half
way up the steep ascent of the pass. At this
amphitheatre-like yaila the torrent whose course
we had been so long following, diverges, and its
sources are not far distant in the very heart of the
great limestone ridge.

Arrived at the top we looked down upon the
maze of volcanic hills through which we had just
come. Far below, a corner of the plain of Sparta
could be seen. Borlu Dagh lay north-north-east.
The highest ridges of Aghlasun still towered
above us i ,000 feet or more ; patches of snow lay
all around. As usual there was a cafe close to the
highest point in the pass, and a few paces beyond
this, a glorious panorama of mountains appeared,
range beyond range, of the most fantastic shape,
and the main chain of Taurus — all snow — in the
extreme distance. (These were the mountains we
afterwards saw from Kremna, and that view of
them was the wildest and strangest of all.) It
occupied us three-quarters of an hour to descend.
The mountain rose close behind us on our left like

158 ANATOLIC A.

a vast precipitous wall, as steep as if scarped by
art for nearly half way down, and our path was
extremely rugged and difficult. Below, and also
towards the left, lay the pretty plain and village of
Aghlasun.

At 11.30 A.M., continually descending, we came
to a fountain at the foot of the pass, and on a very
lofty hill to the left of the fountain, a high square
doorway (of which only the uprights and lintel
remained) with other buildings was visible — these
marked the site of Sagalassus. The French
traveller Paul Lucas (1706) mentions these ruins
in the account of his route from Aghlasun to
Isbarta : — " J'y contemplai longtemps, des mer-
veilles, que je ne croiois moi-meme qu'avec peine ;
je veux dire des villes entieres, dont les maisons
sont baties des plus grosses pierres de taille,
quelques-unes meme de marbre. Quoique ces
lieux soient tout charmans et d'une magnificence a
enchanter. Ton n'y remarque aucuns habitans ; de
sorte que Ton les regarderoit plutot comme les
pais des fees, que comme des villes veritablement
existantes."

It must be admitted, however, that the remains
of Sagalassus as at present existing scarcely come
up to this description ; for not a single entire
edifice now remains erect, and hardly even any
ruin of importance, although the stupendous foun-
dations, columns, &c., every-where to be found
sufiiciently mark its former magnificence.

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ANATOLICA. 159

The road to the village of Aghlasun turns left-
wards down a valley, high above which, on the
lefthand side, is the shelf or terrace at the moun-
tain side upon which the old city was built. A
small stream traverses the valley — (the Kestrus of
Sagalassus, which forms the head waters of the
Adalian Kestrus — " Ak Soo ") — and a short dis-
tance down its course, beyond the fountain, there
is a heap of large square limestone blocks on the
lefthand side, apparently the ruins of two small
forts or block-houses. Further on, upon the right,
is the ruin of a small circular building of fine
workmanship. Friezes, architraves, fragments of
roofing carved in lozenges, and a great heap of
broken columns lie piled together and overgrown
with brushwood, but we found no inscription.

At 12.10 P.M. we reached the village, and were
installed in one of the best " strangers' rooms " we
had yet seen. Vegetation was much more forward
here than in the district we had lately traversed,
the high wall-like mountains forming a screen to
the valley, which was beautifully green and con-
tained many fine walnut and poplar and a few
cedar trees.

After a short rest we took one of the boys of the
village as guide, and rode back by the road we had
come, until opposite the lofty hill near the fountain
(already mentioned); then we turned up a broad
ravine on our right, thick with trees and brush-
wood. The ascent soon became so steep that it

i6o ANATOLIC A.

was necessary to dismount and lead the horses, and
the high abrupt sides of the ravine prevented any
view of the ruins till near the top. The surface of
the hill was covered with the hewn stones that had
been carried down in the course of ages. No trace
of a paved road appears, but doubtless one exists
buried under the soil, for this ravine formed the
chief approach to the city. Precipitous cliffs defend
it on all other sides, and these are yet further
strengthened by strong walls built along their
edge. The ascent occupied fully half an hour.

The site of Sagalassus is a plateau or shelf of
irregular width and uneven surface, about a mile to
a mile and a half in length, and about i,ooo feet
above the plain, its general direction lying north-
west and east. This shelf is backed by a high
cliff, almost perpendicular, and all honeycombed
with rock tombs. The general surface of the
plateau slopes upwards from its southern edge to
the foot of this cliff, and longitudinally towards the
east, but it is very irregular, and is divided by
several deep valleys or depressions so as to form
various smaller separate plateaux or hills ; it is
narrowest where we ascended. At various parts
on the side of the heights and along the edges of
the plateau — which extended back both on right
and left beyond the steep ascent above mentioned
— were portions of the old walls of the city, mostly
built of hewn stone, but in some parts of rough
polygonal masonry. Very numerous rock tombs

ANATOLICA.

i6i

are sunk in the face of the precipitous cliff at the
north. They are mostly square or arched niches,
many high up and far out of reach. These must
have been reached by means of ropes from the
edge of the cliff above. All had been once closed
with slabs, but not one has escaped desecration,
and the inscriptions which covered them are
illegible. As in the monuments of Hierapolis, the
surface of the stone is corroded and covered with
fine lichen, although inside some of the tombs the
marks of the chisel are as fresh as if cut yesterday.
Of the many inscriptions I examined, the follow-
ing was the only one I could at all decipher. The
letters were roughly cut, apd of archaic form.

At the north-west extremity of the plateau and
to the left of the ascent are the remains of a large
building with an apse (but angular, not round) at
its south-east end. Portions of its walls are still

1 62 ANATOLIC A.

standing, but most of it is level with the ground.
Along the top of the walls that form the apse,
both on the inside and outside^ runs a cornice of
sculptured masks ; these were no doubt taken from
some earlier building. It has evidently been used
as a church, for the cross was carved in several
places, amongst others over the great central
doorway. It had a portico at its north-west : the
fluted columns composing it are lying as they fell,
and there are other columns of granite and fluted
marble within and at the sides of the building.
The edge of the plateau was protected all along
this side by a massy wall, and in several directions
are heaps of ruins, marking the site of what were
once fine buildings. In one place there is a
number of marble gurgoyles of lions' heads.

Turning now towards south-east we crossed the
spot where we had ascended ; all this part was
covered with debris, great fragments of stone, and
prostrate columns. Before us on an eminence
were the remains of a building constructed of
large square stones fitted together without cement.
Only its east and west walls are now standing,
the former curved and out of the perpendicular.

The eminence on which this building stood was
high above all that portion of the plateau, and
commanded a fine view of it.

In the wide ravine below, and to the east and
south-east of this building, once stood the principal
edifices of the old city, built either at the bottom

ANATOLIC A. 163

of the ravine itself or on the sides and towards the
lower extremity of it.

The mass of ruin is here prodigious, but all so
confused and mingled together that it is very
difficult to distinguish one site from another.

As one descends the side of this ravine, the first
ruin is that of a very large building, probably a
Temple, measuring roughly 1 80 feet by go feet : its
area is very well paved, and is at a little lower level
than the ground round it, especially that on the
north. On all sides of this, but especially south-
wards, are vast foundations of massive cut stones
and pavements, and over all of them a prodigious
mass of debris. The ground then sinks consider-
ably southwards, and below the site of the Temple
there is another large oblong area (probably the
Agora) with massive foundation walls, and paved
like the former with well-cut and closely fitted
blocks of limestone or marble.

In all directions from this, extend foundations of
massive walls, but so heaped with ruin that it is
not possible to say what kind of buildings once
stood there.

Again the ground sinks southwards, and a por-
tico of very considerable length succeeds. It had
been apparently a covered street, and led to what
had evidently once been one of the most beautiful
buildings of the old city — a Corinthian temple,
with about thirty fluted columns and richly orna-
mented Acanthus capitals. Yet further down, on

M 2

1 64 ANATOLIC A.

spurs of the same hill, are the rernains of two other
buildings, both of large size. One of these spurs is
separated from the main plateau by a deep ravine
with steep sides, and overhangs the road to Agh-
lasun. It may have been this height which Arrian

calls 0 X6(pof 0 Trpo rris itoKzoJS.

The number and variety of the pillars, pedestals
for statues, &c., &c., which encumber the paved
area of the Temple, Agora, and the line of the
covered street, or portico, is most surprising — they
must amount to several hundreds — but I did not
observe one unbroken or uninjured. Most are
fluted. Intermingled with them are numbers of
hexagonal pedestals, and I noticed one extremely
fine octagonal pillar. On a huge fragment of
stone lying near it is carved in high relief a finely-
executed female face of the purest Greek type. The
cheeks are rather full, the temples receding from
the cheek bone, so that the outline of the face is
oval. The mouth and chin are beautifully ren-
dered, although the material is coarse* — even the
dimple on the chin is given. The nose, as is
always the case, is broken. The hair rises to a
" fascia " above the forehead, and falls in ringlets
down the side of the face. On the hair above the
temples on either side are two small wings. A
wreath of fruit and flowers, ending below in a large
bunch of grapes, connected the face with other

* It appeared to me to be of limestone, but it was very mach cor-
roded by exposure and might have been white marble.

/?',-*

Tv#; ' •

:/^--:-r:~'!P<;^''

V-^'-"

:* '

e>.

SPECIMEN OF THE HEXAGONAL COLUMNS AND PLINTHS AT SAGALASSDS.

ANATOLIC A. 165

sculptures that have disappeared. The wreath is
supported on either side of the face by a winged
infant figure, which is of course mutilated. Be-
sides the fluted columns there was also a large
number of plain hexagonal shafts. Their bases
have elaborate mouldings, and they are placed
upon massy plinths consisting of a single block.
(See sketch.)

I observed also a very large mass of stone of the
annexed shape. The central part was concave like

the under side of a shield. Perhaps it was a por-
tion of the roof of a portico.

Amid the heaps of cornices, architraves, capi-
tals, &c., &c., I found no sculptures except the
single piece mentioned ; but much must still exi^,
though in all probability mutilated.* The materia]
mostly employed seems to have been the fine
mountain limestone ; but all is so corroded by time
and exposure, and so overgrown with lichen, that
it is difficult to distinguish what is, from what is
not marble.

* My companion saw other sculptures, but few and ill preserved.

1 66 ANATOLIC A.

Heaps of rough stones and red tiling mark the
site of the private houses of the city, and fragments
of thick red pottery or tiling, mixed with pieces of
a very fine red pottery and bits of glass, are plenti-
fully scattered about. I observed no cisterns, but
doubtless they exist under the pavement of the
Agora and other public buildings, for there ap-
peared to be no stream from the heights or aque-
duct to supply water to the city.

For travellers, who can of necessity only afford
time for a cursory examination, it is almost impos-
sible to reduce to any orderly mental arrangement
such a chaotic mass as the ruins of this fine old
city present. It was the same at Kremna. Could
we have remained several days on the spot we
might have given a more detailed description, but
as it was we could only give three or four hours in
each case, and even for that, very great fatigue and
exposure had to be endured ; and, unfortunately,
after all, I lost afterwards the rough plan I had
taken of these most interesting places.

The Theatre facing the south-west is on the side
of the hill towards the eastern end of the plateau ;
high above the city, but with no very remarkable
view. It is in fine preservation. As the slope of the
hill is very abrupt, part of the circuit of the cavea is
supported by very massive and well-built arches, the
stones of which are admirably fitted together and
most of them bevilled (see next page). Under the
scena there appeared to be vaulted corridors or

ANATOLIC A. 167

passages, but they are so filled and cumbered with
fallen blocks and rubbish as to be inaccessible.
On either side of their entrances very heavy masses
of masonry project like strong buttresses — perhaps
they are only the prolongations of the side walls —
and at the point where the slope of the hill is

steepest is a very large and solid erection, extend-
ing from the outer wall of the cavea beyond the
south-east end of the scena— too large to be called
a buttress, but most likely intended to support the
heavy mass of the cavea at the weakest point.

There are sixteen upper and twenty-four lower
rows of seats, separated by a very spacious diazoma
about ten feet wide. On the whole the cavea is in
good preservation, although several large walnut
trees have grown up amidst the rows of seats and
displaced the huge blocks of which they are built.

The scena also is in good preservation ; it has
five doorways, and the uprights of the great central
door are still standing ; part of the orchestra and
the proscenium are covered with the usual confused
mass of ruin. We could find no inscription or
statuary, but there are a few" pieces of sculptured
friezes, &c., all ill-preserved, owing to the nature of
the stone.

1 68 ANATOLICA.

An extremely fine arched corridor passes com-
pletely round the Theatre under the upper rows of
seats — even under the portion which is excavated
in the hill side — and afforded access to the different
scalse. It is very spacious (twelve or fourteen feet
in height), and being almost uninjured is truly a
noble monument of ancient architecture. The
entrance to it is at the lefthand side of the scena,
where it touches the hill side ; the entrance at the
other extremity seemed to be obstructed, but the
vomitoria were still uninjured.

I was reminded of the masonry in the Thermae
of Hierapolis when I looked on the huge blocks of
which this corridor is built ; one cannot help
forming a high estimate of the artistic skill and
civilisation of the people who could erect such
magnificent buildings as the edifices of this ancient
city.

In front of the Theatre, at a distance of sixty or
seventy yards, is a heap of fluted columns, but all
broken in pieces.

In returning to the place where we had tied up
our horses I crossed a spot where there was a
number of polygonal pillars, and at the door of our
lodging in the village of Aghlasun was part of
one of twenty sides cut with the utmost precision.
The number of rock tombs and sarcophagi scattered
about the east end of the plateau and on the sides
of the ravines is very great ; but of them all I do not
think that a single tomb has escaped violation.

ANATOLICA.

169

Most of the buildings of Sagalassus were of the
Corinthian order of architecture, erected doubtless
under the Romans, but much was of a far earlier
age — perhaps belonged to the finest era of Grecian
art. The echinus ornament, beautifully executed
wreaths of fruit and flowers on the friezes, on the
pedestals a palm branch, the ornament below (what-
ever it may be), a quiver, a shield and lance, masks,
&c. — such is the ornamentation of a great part of
the buildings, all severe and chaste.

ORNAMENTS ON MANY OF THE PEDESTALS, SAGALASSUS.

The heat had been intense during the day.
Scarcely had we finished our survey when clouds
began rapidly to gather, lightnings to play in the
mountains, tremendous peals of thunder echoed
from the precipices above us, and we returned to
our " konak " (lodging) in a heavy thunderstorm.

lyo ANATOLIC A. . ;

My inquiries for antique medals and coins were
unsuccessful. About a year back there were many
in the possession of the villagers, but all had been
collected by orders from Constantinople.

The Pisidian race to which the people of
Sagalassus belonged was one of the many non-
Hellenic peoples of Asia Minor. Pliny (v., 27)
says that they lived in the high ch^n of Mount
Taurus, and were once called Solymi. Strabo
(xii., 7) says that in ancient times certain emigrants
of the Leleges (a wandering Pelasgic race, but
whom Herodotus declares to have belonged to the
Carian race) settled amongst them. They held all
the chain of Mount Taurus from the frontiers of
Lycia on the west to the frontiers of Isauria on the
east, and must have been most troublesome neigh^
hours to the peaceful inhabitants of the plains,
judging from what Strabo says of the people of
Homonada^ a city between Sagalassus and Selge.
These, with the help of the Cilicians, successfully
resisted and at last killed (B.C. 25) Amyntas,
Tetrarch of Galatia, who had conquered nearly
all Pisidia. But afterwards they were reduced by
famine and forced to surrender to the Romans
under Cyrinius,* and he removed 4,000 men of
them, and settled them in the neighbouring cities,

* Sulpicius Quirinius, whose public funeral is mentioned by Tacitus
Ann. iii., 48. He was high in favour both with Augustus and
Tiberius, although not a patrician. He is the Cyrenius of St.
Luke ii., 2.

ANATOLICA. 171

and so left Homonada without any adult males.
Strabo proceeds to say that " there is a fertile
plain in the higher parts of Taurus, surrounded by
precipices almost inaccessible, and divided into a
number of valleys " (probably an extensive and
fertile "yaila"). These Homonadenses used to
cultivate this plain, but had their dwelling places
in the heights above it or in caverns ; but their
usual occupation was to be in arms and harry the
lands of other people, ** having mountains which
defend their country like walls " {sy^ovrss ^pr^

No remains of the Pisidian language are extant
so far as I know. A passage in Strabo (xiii., 4, end)
says that the people of Cibyra (a city which was
on the borders of Pisidia, and of Lydian descent)
" spoke four languages — the Pisidian, Greek,
Solymian, and Lydian — of the last not even a trace
remained in Lydia.'' And although the geographer
may perhaps have applied -here the term " rri
^oXvfjLOJv " [yXcorrri) in a loose way to the " Lycian "
language, yet the Solymi were the aboriginal
people of eastern and north-eastern Lycia, and
were conquered and expelled by the invading
Termilae or Lycians, so that it is not probable the
original languages of those races were alike.

The Solymi appear to have been a Semitic race
akin to the Cilicians. The Lycians came over
from Crete, and, judging from the remains of their
language, were of Persian or at least Zend descent.

172 ANATOLIC A.

It would appear, then, that the Pisidian language
differed both from the Lycian and Solymian
languages.

Doubtless the various dialects of these mountain
races continued till a late age, and Greek never
entirely supplanted them, however much they may
have been affected by Greek culture and civilisa-
tion. (See also Acts xiv., 2.)

The cities of Pisidia seem to have been
autonomous, and mostly governed by rvpa,\Moi
("kings"). They were quite independent, or at
most yielded only a nominal obedience to the
" great king " (the King of Persia) — their rugged
and difficult country and their warlike spirit always
preserving them from subjection.

Xenophon speaks of expeditions made against
them by Cyrus the younger (B.C. 404). They could,
however, combine for common defence, as they
showed when Alexander the Great invaded Asia
Minor (B.C. 333).

Arrian, in his history of Alexander's Expedition
(cap. xxvii.-viii.-ix.), gives an account of the attack
made by the Greek army upon Sagalassus and
Termessus (or, as he writes it, Telmessus). Alex-
ander was obliged to blockade the latter city, for
its natural defences rendered it almost impregnable.
While thus engaged he received an embassy from
Selge,* another strong Pisidian city, but hostile to

* This city, Strabo says, was "founded first by Calchas, afterwards
by the Lacedaemonians. It became a powerful city of 20,cxx)

ANATOLICA. 173

Termessus. During the blockade of Termessus
Alexander proceeds to Sagalassus — otherwise
called Selgessus — " a considerable city, whose
people were the bravest of all the Pisidian race."
Although blockaded, the Termessians had contrived
to send them aid, and the citizens, having posted
themselves on "the height which is in front of their
city, and is as strong for defence as the fortress,
awaited the attack." The Greek cavalry could not
act here, and when the archers and light armed
troops mounted to the assault the barbarians
attacked them on both flanks and repulsed them,
but could not with their own inferior arms resist
the heavy Macedonian infantry, who as soon as
they had forced their way up the height, easily
dispersed the half-armed mountaineers.

Twenty Greeks and one officer, Cleander, were
killed ; of the Pisidians about 500 fell ; the rest,
lightly armed and knowing the ground, escaped.

inhabitants, owing to its good government. Although high up in the
mountains, its soil is extremely fertile, rich in vines and olives, with
abundant pasturage for all kinds of cattle and forests of various kinds
of trees. The city had always maintained its independence, owing to
its very strong position in a district full of precipices and torrent beds,
which are formed by the rivers Kestrus and Eurymedon, These rivers
rise in the Selgian mountains and flow into the sea of Pamphylia. Its
people had made an alliance with Alexander the Great, but were con-
tinually at war with the various kings, his successors, who ruled Asia
Minor, on account of the fertile lowlands of Pamphylia and those
* within the Taurus,' " (i.e. to the north of their mountains). See also
Livy, xxxviii., 39, end. They submitted to the Romans on conditions.
The most remarkable productions of their country were a kind of
fragrant gum from the styrax tree used as incense and the perfume
made from the Selgian iris. (Straboxii., 7.)

174 ANATOLICA.

But Alexander followed them up closely and
captured the town by assault.

Perhaps the strong walls, of which we saw the
remains along the edge of the precipices, were not
then in existence, otherwise it is not easy to see
how the Greeks could thus have stormed the place.

We may suppose that during the troubled times
that followed the partition of Alexander's empire
the mountaineers were left very much to them-
selves. Here and there, in the scanty records of
that age, mention is made of various Pisidian
cities. Antiochus the Great, King of Syria, at-
tacked them, it would seem without much success ;
but after him an enemy arose whom nothing could
resist — the Romans.

After the overthrow of Antiochus in the great
battle of Magnesia, B.C. 189, the Roman Senate
shared the spoils with their allies the Rhodians and
Eumenes, King of Pergamus. To the former was
given nearly all Asia Minor south of the Mseander,
and on the side of Pisidia all the towns, castles,
villages, and lands, except such cities as were free
"the day before the battle in Asia with King
Antiochus." (Livy xxxvii., 56.)

They seem to have governed all these countries
with much harshness, and many complaints were
made to the Roman Senate (Livy xli., 6), but the
Pisidian towns remained independent, and w^hen
twenty-two years later the Rhodians lost the
favour of the Romans by taking the part of

ANATOLICA. 175

Perseus,* the last King of Macedon, and were
punished by being deprived of Lycia and Caria, the
people of Cibyra promptly sent troops to help
Caunus in Peroea, which had revolted from Rhodes.

The only enemies left in Asia Minor after the
defeat of Antiochus were the Gaulish tribes, which
had been long established in Phrygia and Lyca-
onia, and under whose barbarous ferocity the
Asiatic cities had long groaned (Livy xxxviii., 37,
47, end). These the Roman Senate resolved to
subdue, and accordingly the Consul, Cn-Manlius
Vulso, received the command of an army for that
purpose. His march from Ephesus is given in
detail by Polybius and Livy. On entering Pisidia
his chief object seems to have been to exact contri-
butions from its cities and petty kings ; for which
he was afterwards severely censured in the Senate,
and nearly lost his triumph.

Taboe (Dawas) Cibyra, Termessus, Sagalassus,
and Oroanda paid heavy sums. Many of the
smaller cities, rich and prosperous communities,
were pillaged ; their inhabitants having fled at the
approach of the invaders.

The people of Sagalassus, confident in their
numbers and the strength of their city, sent no
deputation to the Roman Consul ; but when he
began to lay waste their lands they submitted, and

* The Rhodians seem to have experienced the usual troubles of
neutrals — or at least of half-hearted allies — in a naval war. (Livy
xliv., 14.)

176 ANATOLIC A.

obtained peace on payment of fifty talents (about
;^ 1 2,000), 20,000 medimni of wheat, and the same
quantity of barley [i.e.y of each 30,000 bushels
nearly). From this time forward but little is heard
of Sagalassus in history. Strabo's notice of it is
brief, and not easy to explain. He says it is a
day's journey from Apamea (which seems much
too little), and his expression, " Kar^^^/SaTiv 'iyovaa,
ay(z^6v ri xal rpixaovriz (7roc^ia>v a<^o rou spvf/.acro^ " (** hav-
ing a descent of about thirty stadia from the fort-
ress ") is obscure. Its prosperity must have gradu-
ally decayed with the decay of the empire, till
Byzantine misgovernment and the invasion of the
Muslim completed its ruin. There is no record of
the time when it was finally deserted, but it long
continued to have Christian bishops.

CHAPTER X.

Cemetery of Aghlasun — Yourouk Tribe Emigrating — Village of
Assarkeui — Ravine of Assarkeui — Stupendous Precipices —
Romantic View of the Mount Taurus Range — Primeval Forest —
We lose our way — Thunderstorm — Descent and Ascent
through the Forest — Arrival at Girmeh (Kremna) — Our Lodging
and Host — Magnificent View of the Valley of the Kestrus —
Ascent to the Old City — Its Position — Stupendous Precipices —
View from the Plateau — Desolate Aspect of the Country — Thick
Forest — Grand Mountain Ranges and their Position — Depth of
the Ravine through which we had come — Zosimus' History of a
Blockade of Kremna — Round Temples — View of Davre — Paved
Area — Site of Agora and Temple — Vast Cisterns — Fluted Columns
— Triumphal Arch — Paved Street — Second Paved Street — Forti-
fications of Old City — Seat Quarried in the Rock at Edge of
Precipice — Great Gateway — Mausoleum — Strabo's Notice of
Kremna — Captured by Amjoitas — Sandalion — Kremna made a
Roman Colony — Road through the Forest to Boujak — Our Host
— His Opinion about our Journey — Exactions of Government
Officials and Misery of Peasantry — Plain of Boujak — Native Carts
— Aspect of the Country — Khan at Soosuz — Cafe of Badem
Aghadj — Suspicious Company — Ravine Leading to the Pass of
Termessus Minor — Great Number of Cemeteries — Cretopolis —
Village of BeU.

May 7th.— We left Aghlasun at 6.50 A.M. The
Cemetery contains some magnificent cedar trees
and a few relics of the old city, but all defaced by
lichen and exposure.

In the lane leading up to the village we met a
Yourouk community emigrating. They had forty
or fifty camels carrying their tents, their property,

178 ANATOLIC A.

and the youngest and oldest members of the party;
one camel bore the cradle strapped on its back and
a number of young goats slung in sacks, which
had a very laughable appearance.

As usual several of the children were very
pretty. Here, as almost everywhere, the travellers
we met gave us the usual salute, " Oughourlar" or
" Oughourlar ola ! " — literally, " May there be good
auspices ! " or " May your journey be lucky ! "

Our route was southwards. The mountains we
had crossed the day before were on the left : their
lower slopes were covered with pine and cedar ;
the higher chain, a mighty wall of precipices, was
quite bare and of a deep rose tint.

At 7.45 A.M. we turned on our right and crossed
the Kestrus near an overshot mill. A finely
wooded mountain gorge was before us on the east,
but we turned up the hill southwards. Arrived at
the top by a rocky and broken path, we proceeded
through rounded hills covered with trees and
full of singing birds. Keeping to the valleys
between these hills, we saw at 9.15 A.M. the
broken range of heights over Assarkeui.. This is
a clean and pretty little village in a small plain
which is embosomed in great crags of dark red
rock, and with splendid pine forests surrounding
it. About a mile beyond the village we entered a
deep and narrow cleft in the limestone hills.
Within the pass the path began to descend rapidly ;
the sides of the ravine receded and became

ANATOLIC A. 179

extremely precipitous. For a considerable dis-
tance on the right side were sheer precipices of
bare rock 800 or 1,000 feet high, and almost or
quite perpendicular. But the great beauty of this
place was the wood. Every projecting ridge,
every cleft, had oaks, ilexes, ashes, cornels, &c.,
growing from it. The whole surface of the cliff,
excepting the bare rock precipices, was one mass
of verdure, brushwood and grass growing every-
where abundantly.

This pass must be exquisitely beautiful in the
height of summer, and still more in autumn !
Numbers of singing birds warbled in the bushes at
the bottom of the ravine ; the most beautiful wild
flowers blossomed under the foliage, being thus
sheltered from the sun, which is already very
powerful ; and we passed through whole groves of
myrtle and red-stemmed arbutus.

The Alpine rose and cistus grew abundantly,
and a tree with shiny leaves which in shape
resembled the leaves of the * apple tree, and was
loaded with clusters of snow white flowers like the
snowdrop. The botany of that pass would be
worth studying !

A turn in the path displayed the Taurus due
east from us, but between us and it rose ranges of
steep mountains, one behind another, and all
covered with dark woods. As I have before said,
the shape of these ridges was wild, strange,
beautiful.

N 2

i8o ANATOLIC A.

For two hours and a quarter we went on con-
tinually descending. The oak woods upon the
heights to the right were succeeded by pine woods,
the very finest we had yet seen, for this forest was
too remote for man to destroy, and many of its
largest trees grew on ledges and points quite
inaccessible ; still we continued to descend, the
forest always growing thicker ; huge fallen trunks
lay across our path, as in some wild Canadian
forest. The air was perfumed with the scent from
the various kinds of pine, and under their shade
grew many flowering shrubs unknown to me — the
ravine seemed endless !

Suddenly the faint track we had followed turned
to the right, and we began to suspect that we had
lost our way : no pleasant prospect in these wild
solitudes.

At 1 1.40 A.M. we passed a waterfall in the stream
that traverses the pass, and finding a grassy open
spot in the forest we dismounted and allowed the
tired horses to graze ; our muleteer then went on
to reconnoitre. Mr. S. also passed onwards down
the valley to see if it was practicable to advance
in that direction, but soon returned, and reported
that it was not advisable to go further that way.
We afterwards learned that we might have gone
on in the lonely forest for many hours towards the
Kestrus without meeting a single person.

In the meantime that peculiar moaning sound
which foretells a storm began to rise in the forest.

ANATOLICA.

I8l

The sky had hitherto been clear and the sun's
heat very oppressive ; but now clouds began to
gather with extreme rapidity round the mountain
tops ; the roll of distant thunder was heard, and
the tempest was approaching from every side.

In about three quarters of an hour our muleteer
returned : he had luckily found a wood-cutter, who
agreed to guide us to Girmeh. Accordingly we
began to mount the hill to our right ; but we had
scarcely started when the storm burst upon us
with its full fury : the lightning was blinding and
almost incessant ; the peals of thunder, re-echoed
in these deep gorges, were such as I never before
heard ; the rain descended literally in torrents, and
for nearly a quarter of an hour a shower of hail-
stones as large as peas rattled down upon us.

Then in the midst of all this we began to de-
scend ; and such a descent ! It was far worse than
the descent of the Seiteen yailas. The path, where
there was one, was turned into a torrent ; the noise
of the rain in the wood was perfectly bewildering ;
twice my saddle turned, and I was obliged to dis-
mount and arrange all anew. Had we not fortu-
nately found a guide our adventure would have
been far from agreeable.

The ascent of the mountain side was as tedious
as the descent had been difficult. At length our
tired horses reached the top ; we emerged from
the forest, crossed what seemed a huge landslip
in the hill side, and at about 3.20 p.m. reached

1 82 ANATOLIC A.

Girmeh, a small village at the foot of a vast
plateau of rock, towering high above it, which we
had seen at intervals on our ride that morning.

We were hospitably received in the newly-built
house of Hadji Osman ; the master was sitting
with his friends in the summer apartment outside,
a large fire was burning, and it was very accept-
able, for we were all wet.

The rain had now ceased, and the clouds break-
ing, displayed a magnificent view of the Kestrus
valley, very far below, and of the mountains
beyond it, with Boz Boroun above all.

Nearly all the wide valley below was in thick
forest ; only a few scanty patches of green marked
the cultivated or open spots ; and the few villages
to be seen were all at the foot of the mountains far
on the other side.

It was into this wilderness we were descending ;
we might have gone on five or six hours more in
the forest without finding either a man or a shelter
of any kind, and at the end should only have
reached the Kestrus, now swollen and unfordable
from the rain.

The inner room was given up to us, a good
supper was sent in, and for a wonder we were
left to ourselves.

I heard the master outside chaunt the "asr"
(the evening prayer) in a fine deep voice. At about
9 P.M. I looked out : our host and his friends were
lying asleep round the fire. Not a leaf rustled — a

A'^c.^

e^'

ANATOLIC A. 183

lovely starlit night had succeeded to the stormy
day, and complete, profound stillness reigned !

May 8th. — Rose at 5.30 A.M. ; found Hadji Osman
busily engaged in examining my revolver, which
he pronounced " yawuz yawuz " (excellent !), but
I hastened to take it out of his hand, fearful of
some accident.

Amongst the company was a fine old man (the
second I had met) who had been in the pay of
H.B.M. during the Crimean War; he had served
at Rustchuk, Silistria, and Sevastopol. He spoke
very highly of the treatment he had received, and
said he would gladly serve under British colours
again.

My inquiries for antique coins brought out a
few, but none good.

After breakfast we proposed visiting the ruins
of the old city above us, and Hadji Osman offered
to be our guide. Accordingly he shouldered his
" tufenk," a fine old flint and steel musket, heavy,
silver inlaid, and short-stocked, and we began the
ascent.

The formation of the plateau of Kremna and the
position of the city resemble in some respects those
of the celebrated fortress of Koenigstein in Saxon
Switzerland, though the height and extent of
Kremna are not so great as those of Koenigstein.

It is a plateau of limestone, which is bounded
on three sides by precipices, some extremely deep
and abrupt ; on the fourth side (north-west and

1 84 ANATOLICA.

west) it is accessible by a long steep slope, and
even this is cut off from the opposite hill by a deep
rocky ravine at the bottom. The side we ascended
(at the south-east corner) was evidently much more
precipitous formerly than now, for much earth has
been washed down ; but the east and north-east
side was the most remarkable. It was a precipice
sinking sheer down some 800 or 1,000 feet, like a
wall, to a lower and much larger plateau, in which,
at some miles distance, on the north by east, was
the village of Davre, and this lower plateau again
sloped gradually upwards towards the entrance of
the Assarkeui ravine, where again tremendous
precipices bounded it ; and it was all down the
ravine, under these precipices, that our yesterday's
course lay. The southern and south-western sides
of the plateau were also of vast depth ; yet all
along the edge, and on every accessible ledge, the
old inhabitants had built strong walls, in some
parts of rough, in others of hewn stones, as if to
make security doubly sure.

Arrived at the top, after many halts, we sat
down to rest ; and what a prospect lay before us !
I despair of being able to give by words even an
idea of it ! Some 1,000 feet below were the twenty
or twenty-five houses of Girmeh. From it the
country inclined rapidly in its general formation
to the valley of the Kestrus, which must have
been at least 5,000 feet below us.

We could see the turbid light coloured waters of

ANATOLICA. 185

the river, which had risen and spread far beyond
its banks, rushing along in their winding course ;
till the view down the valley was closed, full
twenty-five miles away, by the mountains ihat
border it. On the opposite side of the valley
ranges of mountains rose one beyond another, of
the most strange and fantastic shape : some like a
saw, others mounting in successive peaks, some
rounded like an inverted basin, some flat tables,
with steep and broken sides ; and over all, except
at rare intervals, spread the dark pine forest. The
high ranges of Taurus, at least 10,000 feet high,
and covered with snow, bounded the view on the
east.

Looking due south we could see the line of the
sea near Adalia, and our guide said that on a
clear day the smoke of the passing steamers was
visible.

Our yesterday's route was now clear : we could
trace it all down the rapidly descending ravine to
the abrupt ridge of rock, with its curious round
projecting buttresses, in front of which we had
halted. It looked very small from the height on
which we were standing. The pine forest through
which we had come continued unbroken, till the
ravine sank out of sight, amidst the confused mass
of ridges, on the western edge of the Kestrus
valley.

Our guide told us that "fever never appeared
at Girmeh, but that in the forest it was at times
very deadly," of course owing to malaria.

1 86

ANATOLICA.

We could see over a vast extent of country, but
there was not a house or a village in sight for
many miles, and fancy itself could not picture a
scene wilder or more strange.

The annexed diagram gives the bearings of the
more prominent ranges of mountains, with names
according to Hadji Osman's dictation.

• Daiiraz B&ah

AdbksuT) Bnph

f^siel Da^

N.E.

Kdozoo KahkBagh

Th&'Ses

Sarp d<agh

S.E. BozBorouitdaph
^ Agherli Bagh

We might have spent hours gazing upon the
wonderful scene below us without becoming weary
of it, but time passed and the heat was increasing,
so we proceeded to examine the ruins.

We had ascended at the south-east corner.
Most of the buildings of the city lay to the north-
west of our point of ascent. On the north-east and
north was an extensive open space cultivated, but

ANATOLICA.; 187

with many oak trees and much underwood scattered
over it.

Perhaps the buildings of the city never covered
this space, but even now it is not easy to tell if a
given spot is covered with ruins or merely the
loose limestones of the soil. Zosimus (a.d. 425)
rela.tes the history of a blockade of Kremna by a
Roman army. It had been occupied by Lydius,
an Isaurian freebooter, and the provisions of the
besieged running short, he caused much of the
plateau to be sowed with corn.

At the point where we ascended, the edge of the
precipice was crowned by the wall of the city, but
now all in ruin. A little westwards from this were
the remains of a round Corinthian building, which
may have been a funereal monument, but not a trace
of inscription could be found. A few columns pro-
jected from the heap of materials of which it was
composed. The capitals and cornice were very
richly carved, but all was thickly overgrown with
bushes and young trees. About 200 yards to the
north, but a little to the right, was a shallow well
nearly filled up, and with a scanty supply of water
— perhaps rain water ; all around this were con-
fused heaps of ruin, amongst them the remains of
another round temple, on an elevated portion of
the plateau. From this we turned leftwards along
the north-east edge of the precipice, which was
here also of vast depth and steep as a wall. The
base of the plateau is here bordered by a wood of

1 88 ANATOLIC A.

fine pine trees ; half way down- the dizzy height a
number of eagles, like so many dark specks in the
calm air, were wheeling and screaming. The
village of Davre lay far below on the north by west.
Continuing the round of the plateau, but inclining
a little inwards, we came to a wide area finely
paved with large square blocks of crystalline lime-
stone or rough marble ; beyond this was another
area similarly paved, but of greater size ; under
both were great vaulted cisterns ; we could trace
them all along, and we descended into several. A
number of stone gutters for water lay all around,
which had fallen from the roofs of the buildings
near. These cisterns were formed of huge oblong
uprights of stone, upon which other blocks had
been laid horizontally. In each cistern were three
rows of uprights, and over them four lines of arch
had been built, the crown of the arch and a few
feet on either side being of hewn stones well fitted
together, the sides of rough stones built up with
mortar. Much soil and a vast accumulation of
rubbish have fallen into these cisterns, so that
perhaps not more than half their depth can now be
seen, and the lower part was doubtless hewn in the
rock. The latter of the open areas was no doubt
the Agora. It seems to have had a portico or
covered corridor on either side, and very surprising
were the number and variety of broken columns,
pedestals, &c., with which these spaces were
cumbered.

ANATOLICA. 189

There was every variety of fluted column : some
had virgated flutings, some concave, in some the
flutings were separated by a flat fillet, in others the
ridge was acute, some were fluted the entire length,
others only in part. There was one large poly-
gonal pillar of fine workmanship (like the twenty-
sided pillar at Aghlasun), but I did not observe
its capital. Numbers of half columns [i.e. with flat
back) and of square pedestals lay about — perhaps
the two inner rows of columns rested on square
pedestals — and there was a number of concave
shell-shaped niches for statues. They were of
great size, and reminded me of similar niches at
Baalbek. The roof that had once covered the
corridor lay broken into huge fragments. Its
stones — which must have been of immense size —
had been carved in sunk lozenge-shaped compart-
ments, each compartment having in the middle a
face in relief; at the four corners round each face
were leaves. Of all that we examined not a single
face remained uninjured : all had either been
purposely defaced or destroyed by time and ex-
posure. On the east side of the Agora was a
triumphal arched gateway, of which the two side
arches still remain ; the middle arch, which was
much the largest, has fallen. We searched for an
inscription on it, but in vain ; under this archway
passed a paved street in an easterly direction.
South and south-west of these paved areas is another
mass of ruin, the heap of materials all overgrown

I go ANATOLIC A.

with underwood and trees. Yet further to the
south and parallel with the edge of the precipice is
another long paved street, which leads on the east
to what had been apparently a fort ; near the
latter was the head of the chief road to the city, by
which we descended afterwards.

This second paved street extended — still parallel
with the precipice — to the north-west side of the
plateau. On this side only (as before said) the
plateau is accessible by a long and steeply sloping
ascent, but here too it was once defended by a
strong, well built wall, of which only detached
pieces are standing, the rest having fallen outwards
in a vast sloping " talus " of great hewn stones. I
could not trace the gateway in it through which
no doubt the street once passed. Outside the wall
and all over the surface of the steep . ascent are a
great number of heavy and coarse sarcophagi and
rock tombs (our guide said there were " beshik
ch5k," " many cradles "), but we did not examine
them.

The street itself is, roughly speaking, about
eighteen feet wide, well paved with square blocks,
and also seems to have had a corridor or covered
way on either side, for there was a large number
of red granite columns and square pedestals along
it, with here and there doorways, some yet stand-
ing. As usual in these ancient cities, many sarco
phagi stood at the sides of the roadway.

None of the columns, so far as I observed, were

ANATOLIC A. 191

erect : most lay at regular intervals, and in one
direction, as if cast down by a single shock of
earthquake.

I observed one large Corinthian capital, but of
inferior work. We saw no bas-reliefs, and I did
not observe a theatre, although in a city which
had evidently been a very considerable place, one
almost certainly existed. The principal material
employed in the city seemed to be the same as at
Sagalassus, but all so corroded that it is hard to
say if any given piece be of marble or limestone.

I subjoin a rough plan of the city, &c. It is,
unfortunately, only from memory, but it may give
some slight idea of this interesting place.

The difficulty of examining the ruins, both from
the growth of wood that has overspread them and
their own confused mass, was so great that we
probably overlooked much, and it is not easy to
assign to each edifice its proper description.

Returning along the paved street we came to a
high projecting mass of rock, close to the edge of
the precipice ; a portion of its outer side had been
cut away so as to leave the rock projecting above ;
underneath this a long seat had been quarried in
the native rock : a stupendous precipice without
any parapet wall sank down in front, and the view
from it was of course magnificent. Here we re-
posed awhile. Our guide gave us his impression
of its use by saying that here " the young ladies
of the old town used to sit and do needlework."

192 ANATOLICA.

We descended by the principal ancient road,
which passed transversely down the face of the
cliff. A little way down it is the Great Gateway, of
which both the outer and inner arch still remained
erect : the outer gate had blocks of stone filling
the space under the arch as at Hierapolis and
Aphrodisias. Further down,, near the side of the
road, there was also a mausoleum or rock tomb ;
my friend looked at it, but I did not visit it.

Very little is known of the history of Kremna. A
fortress of such immense natural strength would not
have been neglected by Alexander the Great. It pro-
bably submitted to him without resistance, but there
is no record concerning it. When the Macedonian
Empire was broken up it was in the hands of its
Pisidian inhabitants, and no doubt continued in-
dependent. It was so not long before our era, for
Strabo (xii., 6) says that Amyntas, King of Galatia,
after conquering Derbe in Lycaonia, and receiving
Isaura from the Roman Senate, attacked the
Cilicians and Pisidians (who were continually
making incursions into his country from the
Taurus), and captured many strong places which
had never before been taken, amongst them
Kremna, but he did not even " attempt to capture
Sandalion, which lies between Kremna and Saga-
lassus." The exact position of this place has not
been discovered : it may have been only a strong
mountain fortress, and not a town. Amyntas next
attacked Homonada, and although the conquest

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ANATOLIC A. iq3

of this place was most difficult, he had carried
many of their fortresses, and even destroyed their
King, when he himself perished by a stratagem of
the King's wife, being cut off by the Cilicians in an
ambuscade. His dominions were formed into a
province, and Kremna being so important a post
was occupied by a Roman colony, " Colonia Julia
Augusta Kremna/*

Ptolemy mentions it (v., 5), and Zosimus (a.d.
425) relates a long blockade of the place by a
Byzantine army.

After that the curtain falls upon its history, but
it must have been a considerable town for a long
time after that event.

At 12.30 P.M. we left Girmeh for Boujak. In the
Cemetery of Girmeh were some fine oak and ash
trees, but no remains of antiquity, as the labour of
bringing objects from the height above would have
been too great.

Our route, which was extremely rough and
rocky, was at first under the southern precipices
of the city ; then across the hill which lay over
against the north-west and west side of the vast
rocky height. It was a most picturesque and
beautiful ride, being for nearly the whole way
through great forests of pine of various kinds,
fragrant and shady, but perfectly solitary. The
number of crystal springs and rivulets which
flowed from the hills across our path was very
remarkable. At 2.30 P.M. we passed through a

194 . ANATOLICA.

small cultivated plain, and at 3.10 P.M. descended
into the large village of Boujak, where we were
lodged in the house of Hadji Ali Onbashi. The
old gentleman, who had made several pilgrimages
to Mecca, was very hospitable, and prepared our
coffee v/ith his own hands, after roasting the berries
before us ; but the night we spent in his house was
wretched in the extreme : the number of fleas was
extraordinary, and for several subsequent days we
suffered from them.

When told the object of our journey, he ex-
pressed his opinion very frankly that " we were
wanting in sense ; one mountain was just the same
as another ; what was the use of going about the
country examining mountains and old buildings
unless " (inquiringly) " it was to find out hidden
treasures ?"

Upon this I told him that treasure was easier to
find in the large modern towns than in old ruins,
and I tried to explain the object of our journey,
but he did not seem to appreciate it.

After supper I happened to clean my spoon with
a bit of the thin native bread, which I then threw
into the fire ; whereupon he carefully removed the
fragments with the tongs, exclaiming, " Geunah-
der, Geun^h-der!" (It is a sin!), and seemed much
discomposed, until I reminded him that I was only
a stranger and did not know the customs of the
country.

He told us that the Government officials had

ANATOLIC A. 195

been very severe and exacting with the peasants
of that district ; some villages, in order to pay their
taxes, had been obliged to sell even their oxen,
and had been reduced to utter destitution ; their
land had been measured unfairly in order to exact
heavier taxes ; but he had heard that a commission
had been issued to examine into their case and
relieve them. On our departure next morning
Hadji Ali refused to accept any payment whatever
for our entertainment, and when we asked for the
servant (a way often employed in order, without
offence, to give some compensation for the expense
and trouble of entertaining strangers) he pointed
to himself, an dsaid, " Khuzmetkar b^n im !" (I am
the servant !) With much difficulty we induced
him to take a few piastres for his servant, and so
thanking him we bade him adieu.

May 9th. — We left Boujak at 6.45 A.M. The plain
of Boujak is fertile, and like all the others in this
region a perfect level surrounded by hills or moun-
tains, which rise steep and abrupt without any
intermediate slope.

It is difficult to account for the formation of
these plains. Were they the result of lake
deposit ? If so, this would account for their per-
fectly level surface. Nearly all the mountains here
are evidently volcanic or of limestone pierced and
displaced by igneous rock. We met a few families
removing. Their carts were strangely made,
being of strong curved wooden ribs fastened to the

o 2

196

ANATOLICA.

body of the cart, which was a single bar of wood.
The wheels were solid discs of wood with an iron
tire, but spokes are not used. Two miserable
oxen, about as large as donkeys, drew these
vehicles.

PLOUGHS, AND CART-WHEEL OF SOLID WOOD AND AN IRON TIRE.

There is a great breadth of wheat, now about
six inches high, and the plain itself is very exten-
sive, one "reach" succeeding another in a very

ANATOLIC A. 197

strange way. The mountains nearly meet and the
plain seems to end, but passing through narrow
ravines between the high rocks one sees reach
after reach stretching on for many miles. Although
the routes to Adalia pass this way there is no road,
only a track, and the rains of the last few days
had changed the surface into mud.

At 8.30 A.M. a village was on the right, called
Soosuz ("the waterless" — a common name here),
and in front of it, on our left, was a large
building which our people called a khan. It was
evidently old, but we did not examine it. It was
visited by Colonel Leake and General Koehler in
1800, who found it to be a portion of a large
edifice, " apparently a church of the earliest ages
of Christianity, having figures of angels sculptured
on either side of a large arched gate." At
9.30 A.M. there was on the right a lofty and steep
rock precipice of a rich deep red colour. A little
beyond were the villages of Koosh Keui and
Oorloo Keui. Here the torrent is crossed by a
small bridge, and the plain turning off to the right
extends out of sight. The road now enters a
narrow ravine, about 200 yards in width, between
rocky and sterile hills. The soil is a chalky clay,
not very fertile, but everywhere sowed with wheat.

We reached the cafe of Badem Aghadj at
10.45 A.M.

Throughout the whole journey I had never yet
seen an "evil-looking" face. On the contrary,

198 . ANATOLICA.

the kindly good nature of* the people was every-
where displayed ; but here was a man with one of
the most sullen and villainous expressions I ever
beheld. I tried to catch his eye, but he would
never look me in the face. His two companions
also looked "dangerous." All three were armed
to the teeth, and were very reserved and taciturn.
Beyond the cafe the road still continues in a
narrow ravine overgrown with trees — walnut, ash,
pear, and oak. Here and there were vineyards,
but most of the soil waste and full of brushwood.
Somehow it looked an ill-omened place !

I was surprised at the number of cemeteries
along the roadside ; but the villages to which they
had belonged, had disappeared, or these may be
only the graves of the many passers-by who have
died while traversing this much frequented road.
The site of the ancient Cretopolis is on a hill to the
right. The glass showed heaps of ruins, but no
building, nor even fragment of a building, appeared
to be erect.

Beyond this the valley again spread out. On
the right was the village of Badem Aghadj, and in
front of it a mound like the mound at Colossae —
perhaps a burial cairn ; and passing this we came
suddenly to one of the most verdant little spots one
could imagine. Here is the entrance to the northern
of the two passes which lead into the plain of
Adalia ; the other, Tchibouk Boghazi, is more to
the south-west, but in the same mountain chain.

ANATOLIC A. 199

A few huts and a few Yourouk tents are dignified
with the name of the village of Beli ("the pass").
The people tried to induce us to remain, but at
Boujak we had been told by old Hadji Ali of a
village named Yumaltskeui on the plain of Adalia,
not far from the foot of the pass ; of this he had
related to us "monts et merveilles " — so we
determined to go on.

CHAPTER XI.

Pass of Termessus Minor — Steepness of the Road — Ruins of the
Ancient City and Fort — The Roman Road — Wheelroarks in the
Pavement — Ruins at the Foot of the Pass — The Plain of Adalia
— Its insalubrity — Emigration of its Inhabitants in Summer —
Village of Kovajik — Our Bivouac — Proper Diet for a Traveller in
these Warm Regions — Misery of the Villagers — Heat — Fleas —
Mosquitos — Fever — Want of Water — Fertility of the Soil —
Superior Condition of the Pastoral Races in Anatolia — Value of
Sheep sold in Smyrna by a Yourouk Chief — Amount of Govern-
ment Taxes — Aspect of the Plain of Adalia — Khan of Tchibouk
Boghazi — Bridge over the Duden Soo (Catarractes) — Petrified
Deposit on Surface of Plain — Ateran Cafe — Heat of Plain —
Drunken Greek at Cafe — Lower Plateau on which Adalia stands
— Appearance of Cliff — Deposit like that at Hierapolis — Cause —
Catarractes has flowed in Different Channels — Nedjib Pasha's
Road — Description of Adalia — Old Fortifications — Port — Wreck
of an Egyptian Frigate — Marble Gateway in Wall — Various
Inscriptions — Gateway near the Port — Exports of Adalia — Notices
of Adalia — Attains Philadelphus — Louis VII. — Magnificent
Ranges of Mountains opposite Adalia — Climax — Solyma — Bey
Dagh — Takhtalu Dagh (Olympus) — Zenicetus the Cilician Pirate
— Alexander's passage under Climax — Heat, and Danger of
Malarious Fever — We are unable to pass through the South of
Lycia.

We entered the pass at 1.50 P.M. In any other
country it would be thought very fine ; but we had
become rather " choice." Still, it is most in-
teresting, because the old Roman road to Attalia
passed through it. At a very short distance from
the entrance the road becomes so steep that it is
necessary to dismount, and about two-thirds of

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ANATOLICA. 201

the way down the pass are the ruins of the Roman
fort that commanded it, built, as usual, of massy-
square stones. Lower down was another fort, and
on all sides are sarcophagi, all broken and their
inscriptions illegible ; the ornament upon most of
them is the Grecian shield. There must have been
also a considerable town in the pass, for along the
road were foundations of many walls and houses.
The colossal statue of a lion recumbent was on the
right, but the material in all these works is coarse
and covered with lichen. The Roman road is
indeed a fine work : it resembles the road between
Alexandretta and Antioch, but is superior to it. It
is made of large boulders of fine crystalline white
limestone, admirably fitted together, but rounded
now and polished smooth as glass by the traffic of
ages. Where a rivulet or watercourse passes, the
stones are set in a red concrete ; a very little repair
is needed to make the road nearly as good as ever,
with such solidity has it been constructed. In
places the wheel ruts are still plainly visible ;
showing that even up and down this steep ascent
— now for many centuries past only traversed by
baggage animals — wheeled vehicles could once
proceed. In the plain at the bottom of the pass
are extensive remains of a town of later Roman
times ; they consist of a Christian church, the
foundations and walls of many houses, and a
great number of sarcophagi.

The descent of the pass occupied us more than

202 ANATOLICA.

two hours, and it was necessary to dismount and
walk nearly all the way, so steep and slippery was
the road.

Arrived at length on the plain, tired and hungry,
we began to look for the village of Yumaltskeui,
but to our surprise nothing like a village was
visible.

The reason was explained by the employe of the
Government Telegraph (which passes this way),
who told us that the villagers had now nearly all
gone off into the mountains to their yailas.

The plain of Adalia is bounded on the north and
west by lofty mountain chains, on the south by the
sea, while towards the east it stretches in an un-
broken level for forty or fifty miles. As seen from the
heights above, it resembles very much the Roman
Campagna, only it is more level, and without the
undulating hills of the latter. Like the Campagna
also, it is fearfully unhealthy during a large portion
of the year, though habitable during the winter
season.

From the end of May it becomes a very danger-
ous residence, in consequence of the deadly malaria
which prevails in it, and in nearly all the lower
plains and valleys along the coast of Anatolia and
Caramania.

The people, therefore, who in winter time live in
the villages on the plain, always pass the summer
in the purer and cooler air of the mountains ; and
we were told that the emigration had already

ANATOLICA. 203

begun, so that we should find most of the villages
deserted even thus early.

We had given our native bread to the cafeji at
Badem Aghadj, trusting to Hadji Ali's magnificent
accounts of Yumaltskeui. True — there were yet
plenty of Yourouks about, and there being a
wedding on foot amongst them in this neighbour-
hood we could at worst claim their hospitality ;
but before doing this we were advised to go to a
village on the plain a long way to the south-west,
and close under the mountains, called Kovajik.
Accordingly after riding about two hours we
passed some black tents and a number of booths
made of sticks covered with matting, reeds, &c.,
in which the people of the village were lodging.

On inquiry we were told that they were always
obliged so to live during the hot season on account
of the fleas with which their cottages swarmed.

Their head man at first either could or would not
do anything for us ; others were more hospitable ;
they said they could supply us with food, but they
advised us to sleep " out " — al fresco. The head
man at length pointed out an empty cottage, but
it did not look inviting ; so we determined to sleep
under a fine ash tree that grew near us. It was a
thing we could scarcely have done with impunity a
few weeks later owing to the malaria.

Accordingly we made preparations to pass the
night. A supper was brought to us of eggs,
yaourt, and bad native bread ; and we lay down —

204 ANATOLICA.

but not to sleep. The fleas, whether native or
imported, were inexorable.

The villagers performed their devotions, and
soon a loud chorus of snores told us that they at
least did not regard fleas ; use, no doubt, made the
infliction light to them. Towards midnight I sank
into a broken sleep, but rose much refreshed,
thanks to the free air and plain food.

The stimulating diet of civilised life is the worst
\/ possible food upon a journey in these warm regions.
Total or almost total abstinence from wine and
spirits (and even to a great extent from animal
food) enables the traveller to resist the sun and
endure an amount of fatigue which will surprise
even himself.

It must be confessed, however, that our diet at
times left somewhat to be desired.

The sunrise over the Pamphylian mountains and
plain was one of the most lovely sights I ever saw ;
but the heat in this corner under the mountains
was soon intense. The condition of these poor
people is truly wretched, and I felt great pity for
them. "Whilst smoking a cigarette just before
starting I fell into conversation with the head man.
He said that when once the summer had begun
the fleas and mosquitos and heat were terrible ;
that in about three weeks from the present time
the fever Would appear, and that was so bad that
" it caught even the birds " (" Kooshleri g^na
tout^r.") (This of course is only an hyperbole

ANATOLIC A. 205

to declare its intensity.) They could not leave
the place, for they had no yaila — their yaila
had been appropriated by a certain Mustafa
Pasha, to form a "tchiftlik" (farm). I asked if
they had petitioned the Pasha of Adalia to
assign them another yaila. He said they had
" asked and asked ; but all was useless, and
that they had suffered horribly from the fever,
though fewer of them died than might have been
expected " ; being accustomed in some degree to
the malaria, no doubt. I said "we had passed
so many void places in the mountains that were
full of pasturage." He replied. Yes, but they
were already appropriated ; there was nothing for
it but to stay and suffer. The soil was good
and the crops splendid, but very little benefit
resulted to them from this, as they had to pay
heavy taxes in proportion.

And in effect the poor peasants of Anatolia are
in a bad condition. Few or none of the cultivators
are well off, while many of the shepherds are even
wealthy — e.g., we had met the day before a large
drove of oxen, attended by five or six Yourouks
mounted on good horses, well armed, and evidently
in good circumstances. Their independent and
manly air formed a strong contrast to the downcast
expression of so many of the peasantry.

I was told by our interpreter that one Yourouk
chief alone sold sheep at Smyrna last year to the
value of 3,500 Turkish sovereigns. They probably

2o6 ANATOLICA.

belonged to a large tribe, or to several tribes ; yet
it seems scarcely credible. Still they are "well
off." They somehow manage to slip through the
fingers of the taxgatherers.

In most districts the Government taxes, I was
told, amounted to about 65 per cent, of the net
profits of the cultivator ; but of course much of this
is absorbed before it reaches the Sultan's treasury.
On the other hand the Yourouk pays some hun-
dreds of piastres to the Government annually for
the right of pasturage in a certain district, and, in
addition, four piastres annually for each sheep, &c.
This is all the direct taxation he has to pay.

May loth. — We left Kovajik at 6.5 A.M. In
addition to its other miseries the village has no
water, except two small wells, and even those at
some distance ; the mountains above the village
containing none. The head man begged our inter-
preter to ask us if we thought " water could be
found in the hills near " ; but not a rivulet descends
into the plain for a long distance.

These poor people show the marks of their suf-
ferings in their withered and yellow faces, and their
children have an almost livid look, quite different
from the fine fresh complexion to be seen in the
mountain or the Yourouk children.

We passed through splendid fields of bearded
wheat. The soil was evidently favourable to crops,
though not to men. The cultivation, however,
did not extend far into the plain, but was mostly

ANATOLICA. 207

confined to the strip of land under the mountains ;
the rest of the wide level was covered with low
brushwood and scattered trees. Numbers of cattle
were grazing, but in a few weeks they and their
owners will be on the mountains, and the plain
will be deserted till winter drives the people down
from the yailas again.

Continuing our route to the south-west we
reached (6.50 A.M.) the khan at the foot of Tchi-
bouk Boghazi ("Pipe defile"). It is a spacious
and solid stone edifice, square in form, and with a
handsome gateway. At 8.10 A.M. we crossed the
Duden Soo (Catarractes) by a long bridge of many
arches. The late heavy rains had caused an
inundation ; the pools were full of beautiful white
water lilies, and from the thick reed beds came
the warbling of reed birds. To the south of the
river the plain becomes stony, and here first
appears one of its peculiar features, viz., the thick
petrified deposit on its surface like that upon the
cliff at Hierapolis.

At 8.55 A.M. we passed two fine ancient walls.
The soil here was gravelly, the gravel being
apparently of limestone burnt to a dull brown
colour.

At 10.15 A.M. we reached the Ateran cafe. The
heat was now very great, for we were no longer in
the cool climate of the high lands. The soil was
a dull red earth, through which projected every-
where rocks of limestone and white marble ; and

2o8 ANATOLICA.

in every direction were masses of the stony de-
posit already mentioned.

The Arnaout cafeji received us with much atten-
tion. He brought some excellent yaourt and very
good raki ; but we were annoyed by a drunken
Greek, a maker of lime, whom we were at last
obliged to treat with some raki in order to be rid
of him. After swallowing in a very few minutes
about half a pint of the fiery spirit he staggered
off. The cafeji said that was his usual condition.

At 11.50 A.M. we left the cafe, and in a few
minutes had our first glimpse of Adalia. That
part of the plain in which the town is situated is at
a considerably lower level than the plain over
which we had been all the morning travelling.
This lower plateau extends up to the Lycian moun-
tains on the north-west, and on the east far on
towards the mountains above Perge.

Its boundary on the land side (the north) is an
elevated cliff from 200 to 300 feet high ; at one
point this cliff is only about a mile from the walls
of Adalia, though it is seldom less than four miles
distant from the sea. It extends from the foot of
Mount Climax across the plain eastwards till it is
lost to view. It appears as if some great con-
vulsion of nature had caused the w^hole of this
lower plain to descend bodily, and that the cliff
marked the line of breakage. The cliff itself at
the point where we descended exactly resembles
that at Hierapolis ; even the little basins are there.

ANATOLICA. 209

thoug-h not of the exquisitely white substance
which is to be seen at Hierapolis. All the in-
dications of water slowly flowing or dripping down
are there ; the ribs of stone, both vertical and
horizontal ; sticks, leaves, moss, &c., all matted
together and covered with the stony deposit — all
are there exactly as at Hierapolis.

That this is a deposit made by water is evident ;
but how account for its wide extent r The peculiar
marks in the stone, the basins, &c., &c., point to
running water as the agent. But what river could
spread so great a mass of deposit — in some
places three feet in thickness — over so wide an
extent of ground as may be seen in the plain of
Adalia ?

Is the deposit matter precipitated by the waters
of some great lake, which afterwards slowly flowed
over the cliff into the sea and was so discharged ;
or must we conclude that the Catarractes (Duden
Soo) alone, constantly changing its channel, has
in the course of ages produced this result ?

The Catarractes now enters the sea by several
mouths to the east of Adalia. This is according
to the account given by Ptolemy (v., 5), excepting
that he calls the river Catarractus ; but Strabo says
the river, which is large and rapid and falls from a
lofty cliff with a sound which can be heard afar off,
is on the west of Adalia. These accounts may
be reconciled on the supposition that the river,
owing to the great amount of deposit it makes, is

2IO ANATOLIC A.

constantly changing its course ; and even now a
small stream which displays the same petrifying
qualities falls over the cliff into the harbour of
Attalia.

From the foot of the cliff near the Ateran cafe
a good road extends for about four miles all the
way to the town. This road was made about
thirty -five years ago by Nedjib Pasha, once
Governor of Adalia. It is still in good condition ;
something even has been done to keep it in
repair.

By this we entered Adalia at 2.10 P.M. The
Yenijah khan at which we lodged was a clean and
spacious building of stone.

Adalia contains about 10,000 to 12,000 inhabit-
ants, many of them Greek. Its bazaars are well
supplied, and it is the " scala " for all the
neighbouring district, but it is a place of no great
commercial activity. Its port, which is small and
inconvenient, but picturesque enough, is a slight
indentation in the rocky shore, which everywhere
terminates in bold and lofty cliffs. The town is
built round the port like an amphitheatre, with
steep streets extending up to a level on the top of
the cliff; the whole is enclosed by a wall about
forty feet high, with tall square towers at interv^als,
a deep dry ditch, a parapet outside the fosse, and
beyond that a wet ditch, and the walls extend down
the cliff on either side to the mouth of the port.
The town now reaches far beyond the old walls to

AXATOT.TCA. 211

an outer line of fortification of modern erection.

Two towers (or rather pier heads), very solid masses

of masonry, rise in the sea at the mouth of the

port ; they are the remains of the jetty by which in

old times the port was sheltered, and from one of

them hang a number of chains, to which vessels

in rough weather fasten their cables. The port is

very unsafe during southerly or south-westerly

gales. In the winter of 187 1-2 an Egyptian frigate

and all her crew of seventy men, excepting two or

three persons, were lost when trying to beat out to

sea ; the force of the gale drove her against the

cliff a few hundred yards outside the port, and she

went to pieces. On the east side of the port I

observed a fine date palm rising amidst the trees

of the gardens above the cliff. No obstacle is now

placed in the way of those who wish to see the

inner wall. Accordingly we walked round the

greater part of it on the edge of the dry ditch.

The lower part of the wall is of fine massy cut

stones ; above that inferior Roman work is built ;

the wretched masonry of the Turks is at the top.

As we passed I noticed a number of water pipes in

the wall filled with stony deposit as in the Thermae

of Laodicea. A short distance beyond these were

the remains of a white marble gateway of extremely

beautiful work, of which a large part seems to be

embedded in the wall — the wall perhaps having

been built under and around it at a later age ; one

portion was quite inside the wall (perhaps a few

p 2

212 ANATOLIC A.

stones have been removed and so this piece has
come to light), and having been thus sheltered it
appears as fresh and perfect as if sculptured only
yesterday, the material being apparently without
a stain and the figures sharply cut. But it was at
too great a height for the subject to be distin-
guished. Two large pieces of a very ornate cornice
are built into the wall edgewise. They have the
echinus ornament carved below and above a rich
acanthus. Higher up in the wall is a long course
of marble bearing the "fret" ornament (Mseander);
but this must have formed part of some other
building, as it is too large to suit the frieze of the
edifice already mentioned. Underneath is another
gateway, having above the doorway a female head
defaced, with acanthus wreaths on either side of it ;
this also is very fine work. Near these fragments
were several inscriptions. One long inscription
was upon a slab of whitish limestone ; this had
been broken into two pieces, which had been
replaced, but in one the writing was reversed. We
heard that the authorities of the town had wished
to open out this gateway and had commenced
removing the stones ; but on the inside of the wall
at the back of the gateway was a private house, the
owner of which was unwilling to give his consent,
and therefore the stones were replaced ; this one
had been broken and was replaced in the careless
way mentioned. I do not, however, attribute
much authority to this account.

ANATOLIC A. . 213

I copied a few of the inscriptions :
I O T .\ I A X A NE K 1" A

TONnrproN

EKT^NI A inN
KATE2TH2EN.

In beautifully clear and regular letters.

" Julia Sancta (or Sanecta) constructed the tower
at her own expense."

The two stones of the subjoined were placed
together, but in No. i the writing was reversed, in
No. 2 it was in regular order ; other portions, how-
ever, seem to be wanting, both at the ends and
between them, .^j^^^^^^,.. , ,|i and the two stones
may belong to |5ni: ■^3|m separate portions of
the inscription, ^^-'"'^^''^^mm^'' I believe the copy
to be correct, but cannot make out the sense of
the inscription. We were obliged to copy in haste,
as sunset was at hand.

No. I.

^^AAlCyN fCA\ re^ TAFTOJX'P
JIAHPOICJTO VAMTQ A^i TQaPTQ 11

1A£:(7T6X PAN
QXY FrJCAG

hN'nQAIN

2 14 ANATOLIC A.

No. 2.

GJisrir 0 AG cjiv ^ €ri 5^ca

OUNTCJ N A^CeXB ^NATAPL^AT : AT^A^^^C
0(^Ane:TrAKArONrA^, ^jUAHiv^

To the left of this inscription and near the
ground was the following, in rudely cut characters
and much defaced : —

€1T/ THCArrs/(AC

Aie TA^ouPCTTec

TATOy Ko fK^ K^
K Po O A 07 o rs ro YA A N
Ctt P>r Tat- Poc
A/VX£ A£ CJ© HyV
(T^O CPTON THCTTAA
KlvJCC CJCTHCTTK/^HC

In the interior wall that skirts the west side of
the harbour there is also a large gateway, which
seems untouched ; the wall has simply been built
up on either side of it. There is a frieze or cornice

|3J

|||

S^ i^ 2-

a s .^

S s ~
5 ^ •->.•

tS3

ANATOLIC A. 215

exactly like that of the Great Gateway, which is
built into the fortifications. The under surface of
the archway is ceiled* with small squares of fine
white marble of pattern No. i. On the inside of
the gateway right and left, and on the wall outside,
similar slabs of marble of patterns Nos. 2 and 3 are
inserted. In all the flower is in relief, but in No. i
it is in a sunk compartment. Of Old Adalia, ex-
cepting the fortifications, very little remains ; even
these have been repaired often and modernised ;
but there must be many other scattered objects of
interest which we did not see, for my friend's time
was so limited that, unfortunately, we had no
leisure to remain long enough in any of these
interesting places ; e,g.y at Adalia we only stayed
one afternoon, and could only take a rapid sur\^ey
of the town and port. The exports of Adalia are
chiefly wheat, timber, and a great quantity of
leeches. There is a large export of wood of ex-
cellent quality, both from the ports on the Black
Sea and from the southern ports. Much of the
timber used in Egypt and Syria comes from
Adalia, and the pine rafters, being full of turpen-
tine and employed in the rough state, are of
surprising hardness and durability.

Attalia was founded by Attalus Philadelphus,

* Perhaps the words *' wXaxwcrEWf T»)y -jruXTif " in the inscription may
refer to this very work, nrxdxuijis is not classical Greek, but irXa^
means " a flat surface of any kind " ; wXaxow {ecclesiastical Greek) means
to cover with flat pieces or plates. Hence TeXaKurms /u.apfA.afov, "one
who overlays with marble."

2i6 ANATOLIC A.

King of Pergamus (B.C. 159 to 138). Its position
near the passes which lead directly from the
interior, and its proximity to Egypt and Syria,
no doubt determined the monarch's choice, for its
port is small and inconvenient, its water bad, and
the district round it barren and unhealthy.

A small town named Corycus already existed
there, and Attalus enclosed this and the new city
with a wall. Attalia is mentioned (Acts xiv., 25)
as the place at which Paul and Barnabas em-
barked on their return to Antioch after the first
apostolic journey.

It was here that during the second Crusade in
1 148 the French King, Louis VII., embarked also
for Antioch, in ships furnished by the Byzantine
Emperor Manuel Comnenus. He was obliged to
leave before Adalia the greater portion of the host
that had accompanied him thus far. The Greek
garrison of the town refused to admit the
Crusaders, who, after the departure of their King,
were nearly all cut off by the Turks, or perished
by sickness or famine : only a few saving their
life by apostasy.

The view from Adalia of the Lycian mountains
Climax and Solyma is most grand and beautiful.
They are far more Alpine in character than the
mountains of the interior : they rise in lofty peaks,
often inclined in the most opposite directions,
whereas the mountains of the interior are, in
general, long connected chains. The whole coast

AXATOLICA. 217

line to the south-west is bordered by them, with
a few detached islands lying off it at intervals.
Seen from Kepez cafe they have the appearance
of narrow towering ridges, rising so closely to-
gether as scarcely to leave room enough for valleys
between their bases.

Especially Mount Climax (lit. " The stairs ") rises
into isolated pinnacles and fantastic crags one above
another ; beyond and above it is the ridge of
Solyma. The highest peak of this range to the
north is the snow-capped pyramid of Bey Dagh,
9,000 feet high. Its southern extremity, Takhtalu
Dagh (Olympus), rises to the height of 7,900 feet
in a bare insulated peak ; its base is broken up
into deep ravines covered with trees ; its central
part is thinly clad with brushwood ; a few patches
of snow lingered on its top. A fortress upon it,
named also Olympus, from which all Lycia., Pam-
phylia, and Pisidia could be seen, was the strong-
hold of the Cilician pirate Zenicetus. He was
master of Corycus [i.c^ Adalia), Phaselis (the port
under this mountain), and many places in Pam-
phylia ; but when the piratical confederacy of
these regions was broken up by the Romans,
under Servilius Isauricus (B.C. 75), all these places
were captured, together with the mountain strong-
hold ; and Zenicetus burnt himself with all his
household. But piracy flourished long after that
time. The great offenders were the Cilicians, and
it required a regular campaign before Pompeius

2i8 ANATOLICA.

the Great could cut up the piratical fleets and
destroy their settlements. vSome of their fortresses
were of immense strength, especially Coracesium
(now Alaya), which is built on a rocky pro-
montory, having two of its sides absolutely perpen-
dicula-r and 500 or 600 feet high.

The sea seems to wash the very base of these
Lycian mountains, scarcely leaving room to pass.
It was by this way, as Arrian relates (i., 25), that
Alexander the Great entered Pamphylia. " Alex-
ander, moving from Phaselis, sent part of his army
through the mountain to Perge : the Thracians
pointing out the road, which was difficult but not
long. Those attached to his person were led by
himself along the sea-side. This road cannot be
used except w^hen the wind is northerly ; when the
south wind blows it is impracticable. When Alex-
ander arrived there, a north w^ind, succeeding to
violent south winds, rendered the passage short
and easy : an accident which by Alexander and
his Court was considered as having happened by
the interposition of some deity." Also Strabo
(xiv., 3) says that Alexander's soldiers took a
whole day to pass, " having the sea up to the
waist."

We had hoped to go through the south of Lycia
to Makri, but already the heat was intense, the
danger of malarious fever was every day becoming
greater, and it was most probable we should find
the villages along the coast deserted. We therefore

ANATOLICA. 219

decided not to take this route. The same reasons
induced us to omit visiting Perge.

We still hoped, however, to visit Makri,* but we
judged it prudent to traverse the high lands of
Lycia, and the road to them was through the pass
of Termessus.

* An intention which we were unable to execute from want of time.

CHAPTER XII.

Collection of Antique Medals at Adalia — Heat in the Plain — Ignorance
of the People concerning the Natural Features of their Country —
Kepez Caf6 — Bed of Petrified Deposit — Theory of its Formation —
Sarcophagi — Uzumkoyou Cafe — Ancient Well — Ruins of Aarassus
— Deep Torrent Bed — Almalu Pass — Gulelik Dagh — Hellenic
Wall and Forts in the Pass — Yenijah Khan Cafe — Ascent to the
Ruins of Termessus — Arrian's Account of the Old City — Its
Position — Dense Vegetation — Ancient Paved Road — Two Ancient
Guard-houses — First Wall — Enclosed Ravine leading up to the
City — Vast Number of Sarcophagi — Ruins — Spring — Second
Wall across the Ravine — Another Spring — Ruins — Third Wall
— Site of the City — Difficulty of Examining Ruins — Fourth Wall
— Deep Precipices round the Plateau — Paved Street — Agora —
Cisterns — Ruins of other Buildings — Theatre — View from the
City — Desolation of the Place — Thickets of Wild Roses — Water
Supply at the Khan — Alexander's Attack on Termessus — It
submits to Manlius — Strabo's Notice of it — The Almalu Pass —
Solar Heat — Yaila at Head of Pass — Plain of Almalu — Appear-
ance of Country — Torrent of Stenez — Descent into the Plain of
Karditch — Great Extent of these Plains — Bivouac of the Villagers
of Soosuz — Misery of the Peasants.

May nth. — A branch of the Imperial Ottoman
Bank is established at Adalia, chiefly for the sake
of receiving the revenue. Having occasion for
some money I called upon the agent, Mr. W., who
did not seem much enamoured of the place. He
said that its climate was unhealthy, the heat in
summer great ; there was no good water, no
society, no sporting — everything, in short, was
dull and unpleasant.

ANATOLICA. 221

He showed me a small but choice collection of
antique coins — amongst them are many coins of
cities in Phrygia and other provinces whose posi-
tion is not made out, and of which no other
memorial exists except their coinage. Amongst
his gold coins were many Polish, German, Vene-
tian, Genoese, &c., of various dates, from 1500 to
1670, which he had purchased of a Turkish family
in Adalia.

We left Adalia at 10.50 A.M. The weather was
hazy, and in the town the heat oppressive, but
outside the town it was tempered by a fine sea
breeze, excepting under the cliff at the end of
Nedjib Pasha's road.

The nearer one approaches them the more grand
the Lycian mountains appear — steep and narrow
and abrupt ridges, of the boldest and most
romantic forms, rise one behind another ; highest
of all, towers the pyramidal snow-capped top of
Bey Dagh.

Under the nearest ridge of Climax to our left
was a large ash coloured patch, consisting of the
soil and pebbles brought down by the rain and
melted snow in spring, which extended several
miles ; nearly the whole of the lower plain is
uncultivated except a little strip along a branch
of the Duden Soo.

It is strange how careless the people seem con-
cerning the natural features of their country !
Not one man in ten seems to know the names

2 22 ANATOLIC A.

of the mountains, or apparently cares to know
them. V

I often asked the name of mountains from people
we met, but seldom could obtain any information.

At 1.7 P.M. We reached Kepez cafe. Beyond
this a few pines begin to appear amongst the
brushwood on the plain ; but on the mountains
and in the plain at their base the pines are
numerous and of various kinds.

In one place I observed a bed of petrified de-
posit, fully three feet in thickness, above the usual
red loam soil. On breaking off a piece at the
bottom it was full of fine sparkling dust. It would
seem as if the mountain limestone chains of these
districts had been forced up by some great con-
vulsion, of which traces remain in the igneous "
rocks which here and there protrude from them
to a greater or less extent ; that the extensive
valleys thus formed amidst them had subsequently
become great fresh-water lakes, and then through
a long period of tranquillity the fine soil which
forms the beds of the yailas and valleys had
been gradually deposited, until another but less
violent disturbance had effected their drainage,
and then the streams which flow from the Taurus,
charged with carbonate of lime, had percolated
the newly exposed surface, depositing everywhere
in their course a bed of travertine of varying
thickness. We arrived at Uzumkoyou cafe at
about 3 P.M. Here the road begins to be bordered

W^v

/r7

^<M

■ ^m^:..

COMMON FORM OF SARCOPHAGUS AT ARTASSUS

.4 Yl

"^^

SARCOrilAC.l S AT AKIASSUS

AXAIOfJCA. 22T,

by a ^reat number of sarcophagi, massy, and of
very rough workmanship : all have been broken
open, and the inscriptions on them are illegible ;
the only ornament they bore was the Greek spear
and shield.

Not far from the cafe is a fine covered well,
the descent to which is by a deep flight of steps ;
the roof is not arched, but made of large hori-
zontal slabs of stone. Of the old town of
Ariassus (or " Aarassus," Strabo xii., ■]) which
stood here, nothing remains but foundations,
heaps of rubbish, and crumbling walls of rubble
masonry. The site is overgrown with brush-
wood, so thick that it is impossible to make a
way through it ; and hence the plan of the town
cannot now be made out, though it is given by
Spratt and Forbes, who consider this to be the
site of Lagon. The latter town, however, must
have been situated nearer to Lake Caralis ; per-
haps at or near the village of Yalinli.

A little distance beyond the well is a deep
torrent bed, full of large rounded boulders and
pebbles ; at present quite dry, but evidently a
vast and violent torrent in the winter season.

The pass of Gulelik Dagh (or the Almalu
pass) forms the chief passage between the plains
of Pamphylia and the Lycian highlands. It is
wide and well frequented, but presents nothing
of much interest until beyond Yenijah khan.

Gulelik Dagh itself is the mountain on the

2 24 ANATOLIC A.

lefthand side of the pass, craggy, broken, full of
precipices, and thickly wooded to the summit.

At the entrance of the pass the rhododendron
grows luxuriantly ; a few hundred yards down
it are the remains of a well-built wall (which
once extended across the valley), and of several
small forts or block-houses of fine masonry.

Everywhere the Yourouks have begun their
annual emigration. In the pass we met a large
tribe of them ; the women were riding (had they
been Arabs the men would have been riding — the
women walking.) A cradle with an .infant in it
was fastened on the back of one of the camels.

In about five hours from Adalia we reached
Yenijah khan cafe. Our lodging w^as wretched
in the extreme and full of fleas, which are now
beginning to cause great annoyance. It was
nothing but a rough shed open to the air in
front ; one portion of it was assigned to us — the
outer part was occupied by some " derveeshes " —
very holy personages, if one might judge from
the respect with which they were treated. They
inquired very curiously about us, but seemed dis-
posed to be very civil.

May 1 2th. — After breakfast the khanji acted
as our guide to the ruins of the old Greek city
of Termessus. Arrian (i., 28) describes it thus : —
" These people (the Termessians) are barbarians
of the Pisidian race ; they inhabit a place extremely
lofty, and precipitous on every side, and the way

ii^J^'

"^M^:)*',-- -^^'■^•i'ft-:

si^'f

'-■-.5,*;j^^->

ANCIENT GATEWAY IN THE ViI.LA(;E OK YALINI.I.

ANATOLIC A. 225

to the city (query the pass of Almalu itself?) is
difficult, for a mountain reaches from the city
down to the road, and the one part of it termi-
nates on the road, but facing it is another moun-
tain not less precipitous, and these mountains
form as it were gates upon the road, and by occu-
pying these mountains with a small force the
passage may be rendered impracticable."

This is a good account of the place : the city is
on the flat summit of a mountain, most difficult
of access, the plateau being edged by a natural
wall of craggy precipices, and externally almost
inaccessible. The whole face of the mountain
and the ruins are thickly covered with trees and
underwood, and the grass on the site of the city is of
extraordinary length and density ; I have nowhere,
except at Ephesus, seen such rank vegetation.

We started on foot from the cafe at 6.45 A.M.
The road, which is not practicable for horses,
leads in a slanting direction up the steep mountain
side behind the cafe, amongst stunted oak trees,
brushwood, and large stones.

At 7.20 A.M. we came to an ancient guard-
house, built of massy square blocks, very exactly
fitted together, without cement. About twenty
minutes higher up is another guard-house, with
two arched gateways, under which passes an
ancient paved road about six paces wide, but pre-
senting nothing remarkable. Inside the gateways
are two vaulted rooms of equally fine architecture ;

2 26 ANATOLIC A.

at intervals between these guard-houses are the
ruins of private houses and many sarcophagi.

The ancient road, of which there were traces
further down, next passes through a wall, now in
ruin, which extended across the whole space
between the side of the mountain on our left and
some cliffs on our right. Hitherto the ascent had
been up the side of the mountain ; it was very
steep ; on the left towered the sheer precipice, on
the right the ground fell sharply down to a deep
ravine full of trees and rocks.

But at 8 A.M., after passing the first wall, we
entered a valley on our left, which rose with a very
steep ascent, and was enclosed on both sides by
precipices, perfectly inaccessible from below. This
valley is about 250 to 300 yards in width ; level
and open in the bottom, but on either side the
ground rises in rough and steep ascents to the
foot of the precipices. Immediately above the
first wall was a long flat area, a kind of natural
stadium.

Here began the ruins of the city ; but all is a
confused heap of huge limestone blocks ; scarcely
anything remains erect, except massy walls pro-
jecting a few feet above the ground. The number
of sarcophagi and tombs of masonry on the left-
hand side is very great ; all, however, of coarse,
heavy workmanship, the stone, as at Kremna and
Sagalassus, covered with lichen — all broken open,
the huge lids displaced or overturned ; and amidst

ANATOLICA.

227

a prodigious number of inscriptions none, so far
as I could see, entirely legible. The usual orna-
ment they bore was the round Greek shield and
lance ; but many other forms of shields also occur.
There was one curious tomb on which was
carved a panther and a lion, holding up between
them in their paws a vase or urn — the last resting
place perhaps of some mighty hunter of the olden
time.

GREEK SHIELDS CARVED UPON THE SARCOPHAGI AT SAGALASSUS.

Heaps of ruins, fallen buildings of great size,
meet the eye on all sides. Upon an eminence to
the right of the path stood a large gateway belong-
ing to a temple ; it was approached by steps, and

Q 2

228 ANATOLIC A.

behind it were the remains of several large
buildings.

The rocks around this enclosed valley are full of
tombs, and many sarcophagi are placed on the
cliffs and peaks about it, some apparently in
positions not accessible except by means of ropes
and ladders. About halfway up the valley on the
righthand side is an abundant spring issuing from
pointed stone recesses, which pours its water down
the ravine. The ground is here thickly covered
with trees and underwood. Beyond this the valley
contracts, and a second wall, much stronger and
higher than the first, extends quite across the
ravine from crag to crag, following the inequalities
of the ground.

Still further, but on the left, is another spring of
excellent water, which, our guide said, never failed.
This also is within three capacious recesses. It
was apparently at the base of some public building,
as the wall above the recesses is still erect to the
height of twelve or fourteen feet, and there is a
small sunken court of fine masonry in front of it.
The wall is built of massy stones all equal in size ;
the recesses are pointed, being formed of blocks
projecting one beyond another, a proof that the
architecture is of an early age. Yet further, and
still on the left, is a building of which much yet
remains, with square doorways and windows ; it is
about fifty paces long, and the walls — of un-
cemented blocks — are still in great part erect.

•V,

.0'

\K.^*J <u.

■^

II:

ANATOLICA. 229

At length about 9 A.M. we reached the highest
plateau. Along the face of a steep ridge, which
terminates the head of the valley by which we had
ascended, a third massy wall of beautiful construc-
tion is built ; it extends from lofty crags on one
side to similar crags on the other, and completely
prevents all access from the enclosed valley to the
city, the only approach being by a long flight of
steps towards the left, and even these steps are
commanded by a high and solid square building,
probably a fort. Beyond this wall lay the old city
on a spacious plateau or terrace, which commanded
a view of the lowlands in two directions, but is
itself commanded by yet loftier crags. We found
it almost impossible to trace out the buildings, so
thickly is the site of the city overgrown with brush-
wood and rank vegetation, through which the only
paths are the tracks made by the Yourouk cattle,
and even through these it was difficult to force a
way, for the place had been abandoned to nature
since the preceding autumn, and the tenants of this
yaila had not yet ascended to it ; besides, our
time wa5 short, the sun extremely powerful, and
we much fatigued by the ascent, which had
occupied more than two hours.

Most of the public buildings stood to the south-
west and west of the steps already mentioned, the
private houses of the town to the north-east and
east end. A large unoccupied space on the north-
west and north is separated from the city by

230 ANATOLICA.

another wall, and is studded all over with a
surprising number of sarcophagi and rock tombs,
but contains no buildings : that portion of it lying to
the north is considerably higher than the city area.
Nearly the whole circuit of the plateau is bordered
by precipices in most part utterly inaccessible from
below ; the north, the east, and the south-west sides
especially, sink down for an immense depth into
ravines which communicate with the plain below.
The few points in the circuit of the plateau at
which an enemy might possibly have surmounted
the natural defences of the place were carefully
strengthened by strong walls of rough blocks.

If its old inhabitants desired security they cer-
tainly found it here. Nothing but famine could
reduce a place so strongly fortified by nature ; and
in the heat of summer the air in the shade and at
night would be deliciously cool, although the
winter might be rainy and inclement.

From the flight of steps already mentioned we
turned to the right and made our way as best we
could through tangled thickets to a street bordered
by pedestals which must have been fully 150 paces
in length, lying north-west and south-east. At the
north-west end of this are foundation walls of
several large buildings, but all is in ruin and com-
pletely overgrown with wood.

Beyond this place, still more to the left, is
the wide area of the Agora, paved with square
blocks of stone and surrounded with many public

ANATOLICA.

231

buildings. Under the pavement is a connected
series of large cisterns built upon arches, and
having the interior lined with cement. I counted
six domed entrances to these cisterns, each with a
round aperture in the pavement above them. The
rainfall here is great, both in winter and early
summer, and these cisterns, which are of great
capacity, would be needful for the water supply,
as the upper city, our guide said, only contains one
small spring.

The most remarkable remains round the Agora

THEATRE AT TERMESSUS, 208 FEET IN DIAMETER.

are those of two large Doric buildings. One ex-
tremely fine room, square and lofty, is almost
perfect ; it needs but a roof and doors to be again
habitable. From the Agora a street with prostrate

27,2 ANATOLICA.

columns on either side (?) led to the Theatre, which
is built in a hollow in the side of the rock, and has
its upper row of seats but a few feet above the level
of the street. There are twenty-eight rows of seats,
and the only entrance seems to be from the direc-
tion of the Agora, by a flight of steps which leads
down to the diazoma.

The construction of the scena and proscenium is
very simple ; in the latter are five doorways, and
access to the orchestra is afforded by a flight of
steps. The Theatre is in tolerably good preserva-
tion. It is constructed of large limestone blocks
as at Sagalassus, but is small, and neither in so
fine a position nor with the splendid view the
Greek theatres usually command. (Probably the
limited area of the city was the cause of this.) It is
not far from the edge of the cliff, and on the south-
east by east it is faced by a side of the neigh-
bouring mountain — scarped like a vast wall, and
towering 300 to 400 feet above the level of the city,
from which it is separated by a profound gulf.
Looking to the south-east there is a view far below
of the sea near Adalia, but it is too distant for any-
thing" to be distinguished except the line of the
coast. On the north-east, looking down the ravine
by which we had ascended, we could see a corner
of the Pamphylian plain and the mountains that
form its northern boundary.

The lonesomeness and remoteness of this strange
old place were more impressive and solemn than in

ANATOLICA. 21,3

any of the other ruined Greek cities we had visited.
It would never be advisable for the traveller to
attempt to explore such places alone or without an
armed guide. The Yourouks, who are almost
the only people frequenting these places, are in
general well disposed ; still there are bad charac-
ters amongst them, and nothing would be easier
than for evil-disposed persons to rob or even
murder a stranger in a place so wild and solitary.
A man might be put out of the way there and no
one ever be any the wiser.

Our interpreter, who was somewhat weakened
by his fever, having fallen behind during the
ascent, we feared he had lost his way in the ruins
and underwood of the ravine ; accordingly we fired
four or five shots as a signal to him. He did not
hear the reports, but as we were descending we
fortunately perceived him.

On the way down our guide pointed out to us
large thickets of roses growing wild. From these
the mountain has its name, Gulelik Dagh (" Rose
Mountain "). He said that panthers, bears, and
deer abound in these mountains.

After a short rest at the spring we continued the
descent at 10.15 a.m., and reached the cafe at
11.30 A.M., much interested and pleased; but had
not time properly to explore this strange old place,
and the fatigue of the ascent and descent on such
a hot day was very great. The level of Yenijah
khan above the sea is about 1,080 feet. Termessus

2 34 ANATOLIC A.

is nearly 4,000 feet high, and the highest point in
the plateau must exceed this by 400 feet. We did
not visit the khan, which is, I believe, a modern
building. As usual in these favoured districts, the
supply of water at the cafe was most abundant, of
exquisite quality, and ice cold.

The first notice of Termessus in surviving his-
tory is the account of Alexander's attack upon
it. After the conquest of Side, Perge, Aspendus,
and all Pamphylia, the Macedonians marched
into Phrygia. On the way "they had to pass
near the city of Telmissus. These people are
barbarians (non-Hellenic), of Pisidian descent.
They inhabit a place very lofty and precipitous
on every side, and the road up to the city is
difficult, for a mountain extends from the city as
far as the road (^".^., the road through the Almalu
pass), and one portion of it terminates on the
road. But facing it is another mountain, not less
precipitous, and these mountains are like gates
upon the road, so that by occupying them with
a small force one may render the passage im-
practicable. And then the Telmissians had oc-
cupied these mountains with their whole force.
Alexander, thereupon, ordered his Macedonians
to encamp on the spot as they were, knowing
that the whole force of the Telmissians would
not remain there when they saw them making
their bivouac, but most of them w^ould retire to
the city, which was not far off, leaving only a

ANATOLICA. 2y^

guard." When the greater part had retired,
Alexander at once attacked the guard with his
archers and spearmen and th(? most active of the
heavy infantry. The Termessians then fled, and
Alexander, passing the defiles, encamped close
to the city. He was unable, however, to capture
it by storm, and a considerable time elapsed
before its surrender. Arrian calls the city Tel-
missus.

The Consul Manlius, during his march through
Caria, &c. (already mentioned), after he had left
Cibyra received envoys from the people of
Isionda, whose town had been captured by the
Termessians, and themselves besieged in their
acropolis and reduced to the utmost straits.
The Consul gladly embraced the opportunity of
interfering ; he relieved Isionda, and forced the
Termessians to buy off hostilities by the pay-
ment of fifty talents (nearly ;^ 12,200).

Strabo's notice of the place is brief (xiv., 3) : —
"Above it (Phaselis) is Mount wSolyma and Ter-
messus, a Pisidian city, overhanging the defiles
through which is the passage into Milyas, and
for this reason Alexander captured it, wishing to
open the defiles." Also (xiii., 4), " Milyas is the
mountain country which extends from the defiles
at Termessus, and from the pass which leads
through them towards the north of Taurus to
Isinda — as far as Sagalassus, and the district of
Apamaia."

236 ANATOLICA.

Termessus was the seat of a Christian bishopric
to a late period. A bishop of Termessus at-
tended the Council of Nicaea (a.d. 325). But it is
evident that the city has been for many centuries
deserted, so that perhaps the diocese merely
retained the title of the old see.

At midday we left Yenijah khan cafe ; a little
beyond the cafe the real ascent of the Almalu
pass begins. Though extremely long, it is not
difficult, and there was even a party of men
employed in repairing the road, a very unusual
thing in this country. Certainly such repairs are
indispensable here, as the torrent which traverses
the pass sometimes washes away portions of the
roadway. This must be a vast and violent stream
in springtime when the snows begin to melt.
The huge boulders of limestone in its channel,
rounded, and almost polished, by the action of
the water, testify to its force.

The road, following in its general direction the
course of the torrent, but continually crossing
and recrossing its b«d, winds under and between
lofty precipices of dark red rock ; these, and the
strange wall-like mountains (vSolymi Montes) which
rose behind us in great ridges, were the chief
features of the pass. There was but little wood,
excepting a few fine pine groves on the heights
above us.

The solar heat as we ascended was great, yet
there was not a heavy enervating heat as in

ANATOLICA. 237

Egypt, but while the sun's rays were fierce and
scorching, the temperature in the shade was cool
and pleasant.

At 1.4 P.M. we reached Injirjik cafe, and at
2.20 P.M. the top of the pass. Just below it was a
beautiful little plain, covered with grass and young
wheat ; it seemed as if we had suddenly removed
from summer to spring. Although at so great an
elevation, this little plain presented exactly the
same features as the great plains : it was per-
fectly level, and surrounded by hills that rose
abruptly from it.

At 4.17 P.M. we began to descend, and passing
a small lake, entered the plain of Almalu. This
is part of the elevated district which extends all
across the interior of Anatolia, and the change
of temperature was here very perceptible. The
soil was a whitish marl ; and this was the first
district on our journey in which we were not in
the immediate neighbourhood of mountains ; here
only one long and lofty range was in view, far
away to the north-west, but low, rocky, treeless
hills bordered the plain. On all sides were ex-
tensive fields of wheat a few inches high, and this
was the only crop. These wheat fields extend
unbroken for miles together.

After a ride of an hour and a half we reached
the bridge over the shallow and muddy torrent
of Stenez.

On inquiring from a passer by we learnt that we

238 ANATOLICA.

were only an hour and a half from the village of
Stenez, instead of being on the road towards
Almalu.

We were advised to cross some rocky hills on the
left and we should find a village called Soosuz,
where we might lodge for the night. Accordingly,
recrossing the stream, we ascended the hill. But
the sun had set, and night was fast approaching ;
there was bright moonlight, but we lost our way,
for the cattle paths in these hills are so like the
ordinary roads that it is very easy in the uncertain
light to go astray. After long wandering we
descended into the plain again, but could find no
village.

On all sides, but at a great distance, we could see
large fires burning brightly. We turned to what
seemed the nearest, and went on till 8.30 P.M.
without appearing to draw much nearer to it. The
cold was piercing, and both men and horses were
tired and hungry. At length we heard voices and
the barking of dogs ; our muleteer rode towards
the quarter whence the sounds came, and we found
that the people of Soosuz, like all the other villagers
of the neighbourhood, were encamped out in huts
of matting and goats' hair, and that the fires we
saw were the fires of similar camps.

They received us well, especially as our muleteer
impressed on them that we should pay for all we
needed. One old man, who had served in the
Turkish army in the Crimea, gave up to us his hut.

ANATOiJCA. 239

and after a while they brought us a pilaff made of
"bulgoor" (very bad indeed), and some yaourt.
We ate enough of it to stay our hunger, and then
lay down in the hut to rest, with a fire of "fiente "
cakes at our feet.

The smoke in part escaped through the rents and
holes in the tent, which were many and large ;
but the remainder was extremely pungent both to
nose and eyes — and the fleas ! whether we had
brought them from Yenijah khan cafe I cannot say,
but they were most annoying.

It was cold, too, even with the fire, for we were
at an altitude of 4,500 feet. I rose several times
and went out, for sleep was out of the question. It
was a lovely, tranquil night ; fortunately there was
no rain, and not a breath of wind, and the stars
shone brilliantly.

Even had the fleas been wanting, the barking
of dogs, the lowing of the cattle, the braying of
donkeys, and loud snores from the huts around
us would have prevented any one from sleeping
w^ho like ourselves was not accustomed to such
a rough style of living. How people can endure
such a wretched life, I cannot think — (even the
water they had was turbid and bad!) They said
they had left their village because of the heat, and
I really think they enjoyed this miserable al fresco
life.

All along our route we saw villagers encamped
in this way. Daylight showed us the great extent

240 ANATOLICA.

of the plain. Distances here are very deceptive ;
the air is so clear that an object seems to be near,
but when one advances towards it the time required
to reach it is often very long.

The mountain opposite the spot where we rested
— i.e.., to the south of the plain — was called by the
villagers Inejik Dagh. I think it is only an offset
of Baraket or Bey Dagh. It is still streaked with
snow.

CHAPTER XIII.

Heat of the Day— Cold of the Night on this Plateau — Yaila — Desolate
Country — Plain of Almalu — Its Sterility — The Overshot Mill —
Horses break down — Town of Almalu — Position — Mountains
round it — Description of Almalu — Khan — Account of Riot at
Smyrna — Prejudices of Greeks against Jews— Our Supper —
Osmanlis do not make good Cheese — Cheapness of Living at
Almalu — Petmez — Koshaff — Tahunn — Yaourt — Pilaff — A Native
Dinner — Temperate Diet of the People — The Bazaars of Almalu
— Costume — Fine Physique of the People — English and Turkish
Crimean Medals — Dress— Descent — Trade of the Place — A Retail
Tradesman — Mosque of Omar Pasha — Fine Spring — Change of
our Route — Fortunate Escape in Consequence — Brigands attack
Leveesi, Makri, and Kalamaki — This Band afterwards broken up
— Horse Dealing— Cold and Rain— Mount Massicytus (Ak
Dagh) — Deserted Village of Tchobansa — Alarm of our Muleteer —
Description of the Country — Yaila on the Mountains — Kiziljah
Dagh — Rabat Dagh — Douroular — Yalinli, Deserted Village —
Curious Ancient Gateway and Polygonal Masonry — Heavy
Thunderstorm — Lake Caralis — Souood Gol — Village of Souood —
The Stranger's Room — Heavy Rainfall — Severity of the Climate
in Winter — Keep for the Cattle in Winter — Drainage of the Lake
— Fever.

May 13th. — At 8.0 a.m. we left Soosuz. Although
it is cold at night, yet the heat in this elevated
plain is very great in the daytime.

The Soosuz villagers told us that in about fifteen
days they should be obliged to leave for a yet
higher yaila in consequence.

The cause of this is that the high mountain
ranges which border the plain stop the breezes ;

242 ANATOLICA.

the same thing is observed in all valleys near high
mountains. The winter climate of these high
plains is most severe.

Our course was over some low hills skirting the
plain. Opposite the village of Inejik we turned
into the mountains on our right and began to
ascend them.

There was no forest, but all around us barren
'rocky heights covered with low brushwood and
scanty herbage. The ascent was long and tedious,
one eminence after another rising before us ; as we
mounted we began to feel the breeze, and gladly
escaped from the stifling heat of Soosnz plain.

We continued to ascend for about three-quarters
of an hour till we reached another yaila. Here
the air was quite chill — frequent showers at times
rendered it even cold. This morning's journey was
dreary and uninteresting ; we saw only a few
shepherds, and even they would soon be obliged
to quit this district, as the sparse herbage is nearly
withered up. There were few or no springs here ;
the only water was of melted snow, and that muddy
and tasteless, for by this time we had become
connoisseurs in water. The hills around had neither
grass nor brushwood — they were more sterile (if
possible) than the hills about Jerusalem ; for hun-
dreds of yards together nothing could be seen but
patches of bare limestone rock.

Our course was due west. There was a fine view
of Bey Dagh, and of the greatest of the Lycian

ANATOLICA. 243

mountains, Ak Dagh (Mons Massicytus). Upon
its long and level ridge the snow lay in an unbroken
sheet of white ; nearer to us another part of the
mountain rose like a great cone, but furrowed by
profound ravines with precipitous sides, upon
whose edges only the snow rested.

The great mountains above the Xanthus at
Orahn could only be faintly distinguished through
the mist and falling rain. On this long morning's
ride we saw only two distant villages, and six or
eight people.

There was no cafe, but at one o'clock we reached
a solitary overshot mill ; we were so overcome
with fatigue that all lay down and fell asleep on
the turf near the little brook that turned the
wheel ; but at 2 P.M. the muleteer roused us, and
said we must start without delay, as heavy rain
was coming on, and it was yet five hours' ride
to Almalu.

The rest of our route lay through much the
same kind of country, low rocky hills, with patches
of half-cultivated whitish soil at intervals. Below,
on the right, was a tract better cultivated, and
with a few villages. One of these, Samar}% on the
opposite side of the plain, just before we reached
Almalu, seemed a considerable place.

Our horses were nearly beaten, and for the first
time since leaving Smyrna I felt utterly tired.
Mr. vSeifTs horse at last could go no further, so
he dismounted, and drove him slowly on before.

R 2

244 ANATOLICA.

At length, at about 6.30 P.M., we passed the
last eminence, and saw the town of Almalu below
us. Externally it is much like a European town,
but the resemblance is only when it is seen from
a distance.

It is built in a hollow like an amphitheatre ;
hills rise closely round it on every side except
the south-west, on which are many orchards and
gardens, opening into a wide plain, the nearer
part of it marshy. At some distance in the plain
is a large lake (Avelan Gol).

The town itself is at an elevation of about 3,500
feet above sea level, but the hills at the back of the
town on the north communicate with the chain of
Almalu Dagh, which extends northwards about
twelve geographical miles, and terminates in Ki-
ziljah Dagh, about 9,800 feet in height.

Very beautiful was the effect of the setting sun,
shining on the Orahn mountains, as seen through
the distant showers of falling rain.

A steep descent brought us into the town. It
seems a busy little place. From its extent I
should judge it to contain about 12,000 inhabitants,
many of them Greek and Armenian. The houses
of Almalu are built of mud bricks set in timber
frames, or of wood ; the roofs are of shingle ; the
streets, as in all these towns, are roughly paved
with boulders of limestone, and copious streams
of water run through the principal ways.

We lodged at a large khan built of wood. The

AXATOLICA. 245

(ireek proprietor received us very hospitably ;
while our room was preparing" they brought us
to the reception room, and offered mastic and
cigarettes. Here we first heard of the dis-
graceful riot that had broken out at Smyrna in
the beginning of May. The most exaggerated
accounts of it were current. " A grand combined
attack had been made by the Greeks on the Jewish
quarter ; the Turkish troops had been obliged to
fire on the mob ; a hundred Jews, some sixty
Greeks, and twenty to thirty soldiers, had been
killed," &c., &c. ; the truth being that, although
many of the rioters had been wounded, only two
poor Jews had been murdered, and that the troops
had not fired upon the people.

The cause of this riot was the old charge, that
the Jews had kidnapped and killed a Christian
child at their Passover. It was true that on this
occasion the dead body of a child had been found,
who had no doubt been cruelly murdered ; but
there was nothing whatever to connect the Jews
with the deed. Our host and his friends (all
Greeks) seemed to give the most devout credence
to the disgraceful charge against the poor Jews ;
and they were not at all shaken in their belief,
although we assured them that in Europe some
centuries back this was the charge usually made
against the Jews when the mob felt inclined to
pillage the Jewish quarter.

When our room was ready and a large fire had

246 ANATOLICA.

been lighted we retired, and soon after our supper
was brought in. It consisted of rice soup, a dish
of fried eggs, "kavourma" of mutton (an ex-
cellent dish), a dish of stewed meat, and some
roast mutton so tough that we could not even
bite it ! Cheese of the usual bad kind finished
the meal.

The Osmanlis do not understand the manu
facture of cheese. Possessing good and pure
^ milk in abundance, they might have excellent

cheese if they had sufficient skill and would take
the pains necessary. But they mix all kinds of
milk together, and the cheese they make is a
salt, indigestible, tasteless compound.

The only good cheese I tasted on our journey
was some given to us by Hadji Ali of Boujak.

I subjoin a list of the charges for all we had
during our stay at Almalu. It will be seen how
cheap living is here, owing to the scarcity of
money —

Turkish
Piastres.

Dinner for three persons, four courses and cheese . . 15

Eggs for breakfast and lunch (about 15) . . . . 4

Butter 3

Yaourt, a large quantity . . . . . . . . 2

Bread (European make), and for two days' con-
sumption also . . . . . . . . . . 5

Room in the khan, attendance, firing, bucksheesh,

&c. ... 15

(about 8s. 6d. English) 44 T.P.

I take the opportunity of describing here

ANATOLICA. 247

some of the peculiar viands we tasted at various
times : —

Petmez or Pekmez. — After the first juice has been
extracted from grapes the residue is boiled up with
a kind of sand called "petmez ochtima." (What
this is I could not discover.) The sand sinks to
the bottom, and the fluid is drawn off and strained.
It resembles fluid honey. It is not eaten alone.
A good summer drink is made of it with snow and
lemon juice.

Koshaff. — Raisins boiled ; the mixture cooled
with snow. A few myrtle leaves are boiled with it
to give it a flavour.

Tahiinn. — A kind of sweetmeat made of petmez
mixed with sesame seed from which the oil has
been extracted.

Poached Eggs. — Served up with tomatas and with
yaourt in which a clove of garlic has been beaten.

Yaoiirt. — This thoroughly Turkish dish is usually
made by pouring boiling milk over a tablespoonful
or two of old yaourt ; when cool it curdles and
becomes slightly acid. It is an excellent dish and
very wholesome. But if no old yaourt can be
obtained for curdling the milk a spoonful of wine
lees, or yeast, or even lemon juice, may be used ;
pour over it a quart of boiling milk. When it is
formed into a curd and become sour take of it a
tablespoonful and a half to serve as ferment to a
fresh quart of milk, as before directed. The Syrian
and Egyptian name for yaourt is "leban." In

248

ANATOLICA.

these countries it is made thus — Place about
three pints of milk in a copper pot upon the
fire. Let it boil, and when cool enough to bear the
finger in it, stir into it about a tablespoonful of old
"leban" that has become a little sour and "turned."
If no " leban " can be had, a little yeast of beer, or
a bit of sour and fermented dough, will serve the
same purpose. If the yeast is thick, mix a little
cold water with it. Stir it gradually in the milk,
cover the vessel up, and allow its contents to cool.

Pilaff. — Take of Damietta rice as required (no
other kind is so good) ; clean and pick well, but do
not wash it. Pour the same measure of water as
of rice into a casserole, and let all simmer very
gently till the rice has absorbed the water ; place
at side of fire and cover with a cloth. Into another
casserole place butter according to taste. When
brown and boiling pour it over the rice. Stir well
with a fork (not a spoon), and serve up. Some-
times a few pine kernels are served with it to give
a flavour, and yaourt always accompanies it. But I
fear none but an Oriental can make pilaff properly.

The usual style of a dinner in a native house
here is as follows. The slaves or servants, as the
case may be, bring in the viands in copper dishes
and set them down by the fireside. Then the
master of the house (generally) brings in and
throws down on the floor a small carpet or a
woollen cloth containing a quantity of thin cakes
of unleavened wheaten bread — very like brown

ANATOLIC A. 249

paper in appearance and taste, though sometimes
it is really good. Then a small wooden stool or
an iron stand is placed. On this is laid a large
copper tray. The bread is then folded and placed
round the tray, with some wooden spoons ; the
dishes are set one after another in the midst, and
the guests sit or squat round the tray and eat from
the same dish. It is etiquette for each to eat only
of that portion of the dish which is near himself.

The meal usually begins with rice soup — some-
times very good ; then various] preparations of
eggs, in which yaourt plays a great part ; stewed
peas or beans, &c. Meat is very seldom eaten.
The last dish is invariably a pilaff (made either of
rice or of an insipid preparation of wheat called
"bulgoor"), with which another dish of yaourt is
usually served. Whatever remains over is eaten
by the attendants. I seldom saw cheese brought,
and never fruit or vegetables (except a few green
onions) ; but fruit was not yet in season. A great
quantity of bread is eaten. The drink is invariably
water ; and a cup of coffee without sugar finishes
the meal. Such is the sober diet of these people,
and certainly they are a fine race of men withal,
though perhaps without the thews and sinews of
the better fed European.

May 14th. — After breakfast we walked through
the bazaars. We were everywhere treated with
courtesy. There was no rude staring or remarks,
such as I fear a foreigner would hear only too often

250 ANATOLICA.

nearer home. It was market day, and a great
concourse of country people had come in. The
variety of costume is greater here than in any other
city of Anatolia we have yet seen ; and the number
of fine handsome men is very remarkable. The diet
of these people consists almost exclusively of fari-
naceous food and various preparations of milk ; yet
they seem wonderfully robust and strong.

We saw many wearing the Turkish Crimean
medal, and one w4th the English medal ; and
evidently these decorations are highly prized.

At this season their dress is either of cotton or
of linen — only a few of the poorest wear home-
spun garments of goats' hair. The variety of
colour and pattern is great. The jacket is usually
more or less embroidered ; the turban white, green,
or red ; imitation Cashmere or the Syrian turban of
silk and flax. The girdle is of imitation Cashmere
or of Syrian or Broussa silk. Many wore the
curious leathern girdle (" sillahhlik ") so common
in the south-west of Anatolia.

A large proportion had very dark complexions ;
but there was not the slightest trace of negro
blood in them, their features being extremely
handsome and expressive. They would seem to
be of a race different from the Osmanlis — perhaps
one of the original races of the land, which in
this remote mountain district has retained for the
most part its purity of descent.

The people seem busy ; dyeing skins is one

ANATOLICA. 251

great branch of industry. There is the usual
medley of articles to be found in an Eastern
bazaar, and I noticed some fine grey and brown
furs brought from the vast forests in the neigh-
bourhood.

At the door of the khan was a tradesman on
a small scale. His stock consisted of coffee, soap,
which he said came from the islands (probably
from Crete), very coarse salt, beeswax, pipeclay,
matches, and cigarette paper.

Near the khan was a fine stone-built mosque.
I made inquiries, but could learn nothing of its
history, except that it was built by a certain
Omar Pasha at his own expense. It somewhat
resembles the Church of St. Sophia in form ;
perhaps is copied from it.

It stands on one side of a large courtyard,
round part of which runs a cloister with pointed
(lancet) arches and plain columns.

In the middle of the courtyard stood a large
round fountain, from which gushed a very
abundant stream of water, clear as crystal. All
round it were seats railed off on the outside, and
over these and the fountain was a wooden cupola
roofed with lead. Inside, upon the seats, a
number of well dressed men sat smoking and
enjoying the pleasant coolness and murmur of
the falling water. Some magnificent trees — two
especially, a poplar and a plane tree — over-
shadowed all.

252

ANATOLICA.

It had been our intention to proceed from
Almalu to Makri either by the Giuubeli pass and
Orahn, or by Arsa and the valley of the Xanthus,
and so back to Aidin by way of Mooghla. But
we were obliged to change our plan, as this would
have occupied more time than we could spare.

As events proved, this accidental change of
route was most fortunate. Had we gone on to
Makri our journey might well have had a very
unpleasant termination ; for just about the time we
should have reached the neighbourhood of Makri
(May i8thj a band of about a hundred men had
come down from the mountains and completely
blockaded Makri and Leveesi. They had boarded
some Greek ships in the port of Leveesi, and
carried off their captains into the mountains in
order to extract ransom from them. The few
Government troops in the district had been beaten
in a regular fight and some of them killed, and
then the brigands had crossed the Sena (?) and
tried to plunder the Government Treasury and
Custom-house at Kalamaki. In short, for a while
the whole district was in their power.

I read afterwards in the London Times of
July 24th, 1872, that troops had been sent from
Mooghla, and this band had been broken up by
the Turkish authorities, and its leader, " Moustat
Oglou," with three of his followers, had been
captured.

Instead, then, of Makri, we determined to go

ANATOLICA. 253

by way of Horzoom (Cibyra). We were delayed
till 3 P.M. by bad weather and our muleteers
bargaining for fresh horses to replace the two
exhausted animals. It was amusing to see the
gravity and seriousness with which the parties
negotiated the exchange, but all in the most
perfect good humour. At length, to the evident
satisfaction of our man, two fine young horses
were sold to him at a very cheap rate, and we
started.

The rain in the morning had been heavy, and
now the sun was obscured and the air cold and
raw, for all this district is very elevated, and
surrounded by snowy mountain ranges. Ak Dagh
(Massicytus) is more than 10,000 feet high, and
still one vast sheet of snow covers it, and the
mountains at the source of the Xanthus are
nearly as high.

We intended to stop that night at the village
of Tchobansa, retracing part of our course of
yesterday, and then turning to north-west.

The plain above Almalu is perfectly flat on
its eastern side, but on the north-west it is uneven
and cut by torrents from the mountains on the
north-west, which form deep ravines, over which
we slowly advanced.

At about 6 P.M. we reached Tchobansa, but found
that the village was quite deserted. Visions of
pilaff and a good fire, &c., had floated before our
minds ; here was the reality : after considerable

254

ANATOLICA.

search, we found a man near the village, and he
pointed out the " strangers' house," and showed us
where we could find some thorns, and some of the
fiente cakes, which here, as in Egypt, are used
as fuel. Then he retired, and, by way of recom-
pense for his trouble, stole our bag of yaourt, which
had been incautiously hung up near the door.

However, the house was new and clean ; we
made a large fire, drew out some of our stores, and
lay down in our blankets to sleep upon the ground,
as best we could.

Our muleteer was in great anxiety, and kept
watch all night, fearing lest thieves should come
down from the hills and steal his horses in this
solitary place ; but he was not disturbed.

May 15th. — Left Tchobansa at 6.15 A.M. Our
course, at first, was over rocky and sterile heights,
intersected by deep ravines ; in the first of these a
considerable stream flowed from left to right. At
intervals we passed smaller streams and springs of
excellent water.

In some of the ravines, where grass and water
could be found, were encampments, and in a few
places men were ploughing. In the ravines the
heat was intense, but the air was cool and pleasant
on the heights, especially at our first halt, 7.45 A.M.,
a pretty little yaila, through which ran a clear
rivulet. There were patches of fine grass, green as
an emerald, and full of clover, and one willow tree,
under which we rested ; the rocks were of the usual

ANATOLICA. 255

dark red colour, and the wheat only a few inches
high.

All this district is in general very barren ; the
pasturage on the mountains is scanty; the country
seems almost deserted.

We left the yaila at 8.26 A.M. At 9.40 A.M. we
reached the top of the ascent, and a large cultivated
plain below us was in sight ; before us was Rabat
Dagh, on our left Kiziljah Dagh. At 9.30 we
passed the village of Douroular, and, descending to
the level ground, directed our course to Yalinli, a
small village marked by a few poplar trees, and
situated at the point of a low projecting spit of
white limestone. Skirting the edge of a small
intervening marsh, we crossed the river by a
wooden bridge, and alighted at the village, which
we found deserted. A high ancient gateway of
large stones was standing in the village : round this
were heaps of square and unhewn stones, and in the
wall of one of the houses was a very fine piece of
polygonal masonry; the middle part of each stone
projecting, the edges bevelled, and the stones
exactly fitted. We found no inscription.

The air and temperature were truly delicious : the
ground was covered with an abundant growth of
aromatic plants, thyme, wild sage, &c., &c. ; this
seemed to be a fertile spot both for tillage and
pasture.

About 2 P.M. clouds began to gather from all
quarters, and a heavy thunderstorm was approach-

256 ANATOLIC A.

ing. Soon it burst upon us, accompanied with
violent showers of hail. The storm lasted nearly
two hours and a half, and an immense quantity
of rain fell — indeed, all the surface of the soil was
changed into tenacious mud.

We could not stop to examine the few villages
we passed, but I noticed in the cemetery of the last
village before Souood a column with a long Greek
inscription, defaced, and overgrown with lichen.

We had now reached the Lake of Souood
(Caralis* Palus). It is an extensive and gloomy
sheet of water, half covered by a thick growth of
reeds and cane ; the high range of Rabat Dagh
rose above it on the side opposite to us. After
vainly attempting to pass along its margin we
retraced our steps, and on crossing a hill, which
projected into the lake, we saw below us the village
of Souood. Its position is not so good as that of
most Turkish villages, for it is] built on the rich
marsh land, almost on a level w4th the lake.

We were received into the house of another Ali
Onbashi, but the bad weather had detained other
travellers besides ourselves, so that the house was
crowded, and in consequence we did not pass a
very pleasant evening.

Inadvertently, too, I left out my soap box, and
in the morning it could not be found. No doubt
some one thought it would make a good tobacco

* Not to be confounded with Strabo's Co'-alis Lacus, now the Lake
of Kcrcli, or Bey Sheher.

ANATOLICA. 257

box, and could not resist the temptation of appro-
priating it. The master of the house showed
genuine regret at the occurrence, but the box could
not be recovered.

As a rule the people are honest ; though they
consider it no theft to help themselves to your
stores. A man who would touch nothing else will
take of your food without scruple.

The master of the house told me that the climxate
in winter is very severe ; snow — sometimes deep
snow — then covers the ground for three months
and a half. I asked how they occupied them-
selves all that time. He smiled, and said " Ishta !
What can we do ? We sit round the fire and
talk."

During summer they cut a large quantity of the
marsh vegetation, and even tender brushwood ;
this they dry and store up for winter forage.
Sometimes when they cannot obtain enough on the
spot they bring it from a considerable distance.
With this, and with a little straw, they manage to
keep their cattle alive during winter.

He also said he had heard that the Government
intended to .drain this marshy lake. Certainly it
would make a fertile district of that which is now
an unhealthy marsh ; for although this village is
very high above sea level malarious fevers prevail
extensively in autumn. But the expense of re-
claiming would be heavy. Many streams enter
the lake, but none, we were told, issue from it ;

258 ANATOLICA.

and, as we could see, the rainfall is at times exces-
sive. It would be necessary to make a large canal
specially for the purpose of drawing off the water,
and it is unlikely that the Turkish Government
would incur the heavy expense this would entail ;
especially as there is a wide extent of reclaimable
land nearer the coast, and likely to be more pro-
ductive.

CHAPTER XIV.

District of Igneous Rock to West of Lake Caralis — Rich Pasturage —
Baindir — The Caularis Amnis of Livy — Pastoral Beauty of this
District — Heavy Rain — Plain in Front of Horzoom — Immense
Expanse of Wheat — The River Dollomon — Position of Horzoom
— The " Strangers' Room " — Our Host — The Mudir of Horzoom
— Opinion of our Host about our Journey — His Domestic
Arrangements — Polygamy — We Sup vi'ith our Host "alia
Turca " — Visit to the Ruins of Cibyra — Poor Salary of the Mudir —
Position of Cibyra — Stadium — Theatre— Odeum — Ancient Sculp-
tures and Money found there — The Villagers had used up the
Inscribed Stones — A Statue broken up by them in hope of
finding Money inside it — Strabo's Notice of Cibyra — The
Tetrapolis — Military Strength of Cibyra — Its Kings — The Lan-
guage of its People — Its Chief Industry — Polybius' Account of
the King Moagetes and the Roman Consul Manlius — Trade of
Cibyra — Ancient Coin — Igneous District to North of Cibyra —
Yussuftcha — Plain of Karajuk — Violent Storm — Difficulty of
Advancing — Halt at Bedrebey — Miserable Condition of Villagers
— Beautiful Evening — Seasonable Rains — Heavy Taxation of Vil-
lagers— Tobacco Regie at Constantinople — Women Unveiled —
Bad Accommodation — Hadji Payam — Evgarrah — The Domou
Pass over Boz Dagh — Armed Zeybeks — Grace and Agility of our
Guide — His Sandals — Village of Kilidja — Sebastopolis — Descent
to Uzoumbounar — Varieties of Marble and Lava — Reception by
the Villagers — Difficulties of Travel in Anatolia — Its Advantages.

May 1 6th. — Left for Horzoom 8.40 a.m. Beyond
the heights at the north-west end of the lake extends
a tract of broken rocky hills, without trees, but
plentifully covered with brushwood and rich grass
even to their summits. This country is in general
much more fertile and picturesque than the district

s 2

26o ANATOLICA.

we had lately traversed. Sometimes small patches
of bare limestone projected from the soil, and
many veins of white and of white and red marble ;
there was also much lava and mica schist exhibit-
ing shades of green, red, brown, and yellow, in
endless variety : but everywhere there was abun-
dance of pasture.

Lava hills are more fertile than limestone ; their
softer, looser texture allowing vegetation to spring
up more freely.

Through openings in the hills we could see
in the distance many well-tilled mountain basins.
In one of them on our left was the village of
Yazeer.

At 1 1 . 1 5 A.M. we reached Baindir. This village
is on a large and rapid brook (the " Caularis
Amnis " of Livy xxxviii., 15). The wood and arable
land belonging to it extend in long narrow valleys
up into the hills in every direction.

By the side of the stream and under the trees
along its margin the sheep and cattle had congre-
gated to avoid the sun, and w^e could hear the
notes of the herdboy's pipe —

lam pastor umbras, cum grege languido
Rivumque fessus quaerit, et horridi
Dumeta Silvani — caret que
Ripa vagis taciturna ventis.

In this pretty pastoral country the scenes of the
old mythology and passages from the classic poets
are constantly present to one's thoughts. It would

ANATOLIC A. 261

have seemed quite natural here had the "god of
Arcadia/' with his retinue of nymphs and fauns,
suddenly appeared, or the huntress goddess with
her maiden troop bounding in the chase through
the woodland glades —

Diese Hohen fullten Oreaden,
Eine Dryas lebt' in jenem Baum,
Aus den Urnen lieblicher Najaden
Sprang der Strome Silberschaum.

But now, alas —

Schone Wesen aus dem Fabelland !
Schone Welt, wo bist du ? . . . .

Soon after midday heavy rain came on, as yes-
terday, and the deep violet colour of the hills as
seen through the showers which were falling in all
directions was very fine.

At 1.35 P.M. we passed on our right the village
of Tchandir, at the foot of a mountain of the same
name, and rested awhile under a fine poplar tree,
near which are a few inscribed stones, but not of
any interest.

From this spot we could see Horzoom ; it was
at the foot of the hills on the opposite side of a
wide plain — part of the plain of Karajuk — and at
about two hours' distance. So that thinking we
could now find our way to it without any difficulty
we allowed our guide to return.

But in the broad expanse of wheat which covered
the whole surface of the plain we could find no
path.

262 ANATOLICA.

We crossed one rapid but shallow stream ; and
heavy rain having again come on, we engaged
another guide at the little hamlet of Osman Kal-
feler, who led us by a ford across a second stream,
deep and swift, and so brought us to Horzoom.

The village is prettily situated at the edge of the
great plain, now as far as the eye can reach one
wide sheet of green. Behind it are uneven chalk
hills, which border the plain on the west and south,
some of them exhibiting large patches of pure
white chalk. Yet further behind these hills rises a
chain of mountains.

To the north are other detached chains, half
visible through the rain, and far to the south
the great mass of the Lycian mountains. Far in
the plain to the south-east of the village is the
lake of Gule Hissar, in which is a high rocky
island, connected with the mainland by an ancient
causeway. But we passed considerably to the
north of it, and so did not visit it.

This is the site of Alimne, which, together with
Syloeum, belonged to Cibyra as a subject town.

Horzoom is full of orchards and fruit trees,
among which are some magnificent walnut trees.

As we rode up we were invited to enter the
house of Hadji Osman, one of the chief people of
the place. It was the " strangers' house " ; the
proprietor had lately bought it, and was about to
rebuild it.

It was a roomy and comfortable wooden building

ANATOLICA. 263

of two stories — its lower floor served for
stables, magazines, &c., &c. The upper floor
was reached by a long and rickety wooden stair-
case. This led to a very wide corridor or covered
gallery, from which the chambers opened.

It was necessary to be careful in walking, as at
frequent intervals there were holes and broken
planks, through which the foot could easily pass.
The Turks never repair ; and although wood is so
abundant and cheap, it had never occurred to the
village authorities to lay down a few new planks,
and so perhaps prevent a broken leg, or some other
severe injury, to those who might be lodged here.

A good fire of pine was soon kindled ; coffee
was brought ; and the people of the village began
to drop in.

In about an hour the " Mudir," Suleiman Aga,
came. He was a stout, heavy looking man, of rather
sullen appearance ; our host, on the contrary, was
handsome, about thirty-five years of age, stout,
and of dark complexion, and on very good terms
with himself.

Time passed slowly enough. Conversation
languished, for we had few subjects of interest in
common, and nothing is more unpleasant than to
be stared at for hours together by a number of
people with whom you find it hard to converse.

Our books, pencils, maps, glasses, &c., were
examined, but Hadji Osman declared he could see
no use in a map, " one mountain was just the

2 64 ANATOLIC A.

same as another." (It was exactly the remark we
had heard from old Hadji All at Boujak, and our
explanations seemed to be as little appreciated as
in that instance !)

On learning that we came from Smyrna he told
the interpreter in joke that he wanted a Greek
wife (" bir coc5na ") from Smyrna. I asked if he
had a wife already. He replied, " Oh yes ! two —
but I wish I had ten \" I told him that we
Europeans had to be content with one — but he
thought ^ka^ a very poor allowance indeed.

I mention this as a specimen of the ideas on
this point of the better class of Turks. The people
as a rule have only one wife ; if no other reason,
the expense of separate households prevents
polygamy ; but of course I do not here speak of
the wealthy or high class Turks. I once knew a
native broker in Cairo who had three wives. He
was obliged to give them each a separate estab-
lishment. But he was a very wealthy man and
could afford it, and in Egypt divorce is disgrace-
fully common and easy.

At last supper came. We sat down with our host
and his friends, and began to eat in the native
style (" alia Turca," as he called it) ; but I presume
we did not succeed very well, for they seemed
much amused, although very polite.

After a while we were left alone, and the room
being clean and the divans well carpeted, we were
very comfortable.

ANATOLIC A. 265

May 17th. — The Mudir and his attendants came
early to escort us to the ruins of Cibyra. While
waiting for us to start he said he had been sent to
this place from Koniah ; but he disliked his post,
the people of the country were of a bad and
turbulent disposition, and his pay was only 275
Turkish piastres per month (about ;£3o per annum
only!), "and I have children,'' he said, "and must
keep up a house, a horse, &c., &c."

Hereupon our interpreter rather maliciously
whispered that "no doubt he made up a good
income in one way or other''; but the poor Mudir
looked as if this was not the case with him.

We started at last, and I think our friends had
not walked so far for many a day as we made
them walk on that occasion ; no doubt it did them
good ! As for the Mudir, with some difficulty we
persuaded the good man to mount his horse, for
the sun w^as hot, and he, being stout, perspired
excessively.

The ruins of the old city, which are neither
extensive nor interesting, are upon the uneven
chalky hills above the village, about 500 feet
above the level of the plain, which is itself 3,500
feet above sea level. Smaller ridges branch off in
various directions from the main hill. One of these,
to the north-east, showed traces of a paved road,
and was bordered by many sarcophagi and monu-
ments ; indeed, there are groups of sarcophagi and
tombs on all the ridges and hill sides.

2 66 ANATOLIC A.

The approach to the hill top is by a ravine from
Horzoom ; at the head of the ascent on the left
are the remains of the Stadium, 650 feet long and
80 broad. One side is partly excavated in the
slope of the hill, and most of the rows of seats
were on that side ; the opposite side is only a low
wall, now much broken down. The south end of
the Stadium is circular. The whole is much over-
grown with bushes, and the blocks displaced and
covered with earth ; indeed, this is in worse pre-
servation than any Stadium we had yet seen. To the
north-east of the Stadium are foundations of many
large buildings on a wide levelled space ; but all
are even with the ground, and the very mass of
ruin is much less than would be expected from the
former size and importance of the city. A few
broken columns are scattered about, and the
foundations of private houses are spread over the
whole surface of the hill.

The Theatre, which is not in very good preser-
vation, lies north-west of the Stadium, and on a
higher part of the hill. It is 266 feet in diameter,
and contains thirty-six rows of seats, but some of
the upper rows seem to have been added at a time
subsequent to the building. The material em-
ployed in it, as also throughout the city, is lime-
stone.

South of the Theatre, a little nearer Horzoom, is
the best preserved building of the old city, appa-
rently an Odeum or a small Theatre.

ANATOLICA. 267

Its front, a lofty and solid wall of hewn lime-
stone blocks, remains almost entire. There are
seven doorways in it, the five smaller half ob-
structed by earth and rubbish ; and within are
circular rows of seats, but nearly covered by soil
and vegetation.

The Mudir told us that statues and antique
money had been found in some vaulted rooms
below this, at a considerable depth below the
ground.

We copied part of an inscription at the top
of the ascent, near what seemed to have been a
gateway ; but the lower part of the stone was
buried in the earth, and, excepting this, we found
no inscription of any interest in the city itself, for
it seems that the people of the village had spe-
cially chosen the inscribed stones for adorning
their mosque and houses, and to place over the
village fountains. One long inscription, now
scarcely legible, is over one of the fountains in
the south part of the village.

It would have been very difficult to obtain ad-
mittance to the houses, and perhaps impossible to
enter the mosque ; but we urged the Mudir to
take care of the inscribed stones, as they were
interesting and valuable.

They inquired if it was really the case that
sometimes money was found inside the antique
statues. I assured them that, in all probability,
nothing of much value would ever be found in

268

ANATOLICA.

these old cities, but the idea that money would
be found in the old statues was quite absurd.

They said that a statue had been found by some
of the villagers, who thought it would be filled
with coin, but when they had broken it to pieces,
they found nothing. I said that " the statue itself,
if left whole, might have been very valuable, but
broken up, it was only a bit of worthless stone ! "

After all, nothing will convince these ignorant
barbarians of the truth of all this ; they cannot
conceive any other motive for the researches of
Europeans except the hope of discovering hidden
treasure.

Strabo's account of Cibyra is as follows (xiii., 4) :
" The Cibyratans are said to be descendants of the
Lydians who possessed Cabalis" (the north-east
division of Lycia), " and of some neighbouring
Pisidians, who afterwards removed with them to
another settlement, very well defended, and about
100 stadia in circuit. The city became great
through its orderly government, and its villages
extended from Pisidia, and the neighbouring
Milyas, to Lycia and Persea of the Rhodians ; and
after three neighbouring citieshad joined them, viz.,
Bubon, Balbura, and (Enoanda, the confederation
was called a Tetrapolis, each of these cities pos-
sessing one vote, but Cibyra two ; for it used to
furnish 30,000 infantry and 2,000 cavalry. But it
was always governed by absolute monarchs, yet
withal discreetly. This despotic government came

ANATOLIC A. 269

to an end under Moagetes, Muraena having put an
end to it, and having annexed Balbura and Bubon
to Lycia. But still the provincial division of
Cibyra is reckoned amongst the most important of
Asia. The Cibyratans used four languages — the
Pisidian, the Solymian, the Greek, and the Lydian ;
of the last there is not even a trace in Lydia. A
special industry of Cibyra is the skilful working of
iron in relief."*

This family pf Moagetes seems to have ruled
Cibyra for a long period of years, for one of the
name was "tyrannus" on the first occasion that
this city appears in history, viz., during the war
against the Gauls of Asia (B.C. 189). Or perhaps
" Moagetes " was but the official title of the ruler.

Strabo speaks of the moderation of these rulers,
but Polybius (xxii., 7) says that the Moagetes in
question deserved special mention for his craft and
cruelty. When the Roman Consul Manlius, on
his " squeezing" expedition through Caria and
Pisidia, approached Cibyra, he sent C. Helvius,
with some troops, to try if the *^tyrannus" was
inclined to submit. Moagetes, on the approach
of the Roman army, begs that his land may not
be ravaged, and offers a present of fifteen talents.
His envoys were sent to the Consul, who gave
them a very angry reception, upon which the King

* The word TopiviaQai probably includes also the sense of '• to chase"
— ** to inlay with other metals" — *' to damascene."

2 70 ANATOLIC A.

begged a personal interview, ,and, to move the
Consul's pity, came in the dress and with the
humble demeanour of a suppliant. He complained
of the poverty of his city, and begged Manlius to
accept the fifteen talents ; but as, besides Cibyra,
he also ruled Syllaeum and Temenopolis (probably
Alimne), the Consul bade him pay 500 talents, and
threatened in case he failed to pay this vast sum
to ravage his lands, and to storm and plunder his
city. With great difficulty, and after much en-
treaty, he persuaded Manlius to accept 100 talents
and 10,000 medimni of wheat (;£24,375, and about
15,000 bushels).

The last of the family was deposed by
Mursena (about B.C. 84).

Cibyra suffered severely from an earthquake
(a.d. 23), and obtained from the Emperor
Tiberius a remission of tribute for three years
in consequence (Tacitus Ann. iv., 13).

The trade of the city in wheat, wood, and
iron was considerable. (Horace speaks of " Ciby-
ratica negotia.") The district round it is rich in
iron ores, and the French traveller Corancez (1809)
mentions that he saw many forges for working iron.
The rock tombs of Lycia, where wood is abundant,
often show stone wrought in imitation of wood-
work ; on the other hand, in Cibyra {vide Spratt
and Forbes) many fragments are found carved in
imitation of iron work.

The following inscription is carved on a marble

ANATOLIC A. 271

block on the lefthand side at the top of the ravine
which leads up from Horzoom to the site of Cibyra.
Much of the inscription is covered with earth.
There are also many other fragments lying about
in the brushwood near it.

aN.TIBEPION.KAATAION
nOAEMX2NAA2IAPXEINin
niKONTIBEPIOYKAATAIOT
rEPnN02A2IAPXOTAI2KAIAP
XIEPEaSAISYON'TIBEPIOY
KAATAIOTAHIOTHPIANOY
A2IAPXOTAAEA(DON'MAPKI
OTAHIOTHPIANOT-ATKIAP
XOTKAI0AABIOTKPATEPOT
A2IAPXOTAI2KA1APXIEPE
nSEKTONON .Z2<AN0nN
(A)HM0 2iaNEPTnN, &c.

All the other legible inscriptions that we saw
were funereal. The Asiarchs are the officers men-
tioned in Acts xix., 31 — "Certain of the chief of
Asia." They were elected annually to preside over
the sacred games which were celebrated all over
Asia Minor in honour of the emperors or the
deities. Although part of the expense was borne
by the provinces, the Asiarch was also obliged to
expend large sums, and only wealthy persons could
discharge the office. In Strabo's time most of
the Asiarchs were chosen from the citizens of

272

ANATOLICA.

Tralles — at that time one of the wealthiest cities in
Asia.

(For the Lysiarchs see Appendix D.)

^ 17s feet

ODEUM, CIBYRA.

1= =

THEATRE OF CIBYRA— DIAMETER 266 FEET.

ANATOLICA.

273

On returning to our lodg-
ing a copper coin of Cibyra
(M. Antoninus) was offered
for sale, but the price deman-
ded was ("bir Louis") a Napoleon,
so that I did not purchase. The
Mudir pressed us to stay, promised
to have a sheep killed for us, &c.,
&c., but we could not spare the
time ; so after giving the servants
a good bucksheesh — that being
the only way of making an ac-
knowledgment for the hospitality
received in such a case as this —
we left Horzoom at 11. 10 a.m.

Our route was through a district
of uneven whitish hills, like that in
which Cibyra stands, and which
extends all along the west side of
the plain. The soil is barren, full
of rounded pebbles of granite, ba-
salt, or hard lava, set in tufa, or
volcanic sand. In many places
great beds of mica schist occur of
many varieties of colour. The
pebbles appear as if rounded by
the long continued action of water,
and in the valleys banks of con- the stadium of
glomerate of these substances rise cibyra.

at the sides of the path. Much serpentine also

•f'

Us C=3

^ _,

2 74 ANATOLIC A.

occurs, and the igneous rocks of all this district
abound in iron ores.

In about an hour we passed the village of Yus-
suftcha. The whole male population of the place
seemed busily engaged in doing nothing, as in
many other places. The whole care of household
or field work seemed delegated to the women.
The Zeybek costume may be seen here in great
perfection.

At 1. 20 P.M. we emerged from the district of
broken hills, and again came in sight of the great
plain of Karajuk. After descending the pine-clad
heights which here border it, we rested a short time
near a deep and rapid stream at their foot. This
is the principal tributary of the Dollomon (Calbis).
We were now passing along the west side of the
plain towards its north-west corner, intending to
cross the Boz Dagh or some of its offsets, and so
enter the plain of Dawas. But scarcely had we
resumed our journey when one of the thunder-
storms which had been traversing the plain and
mountains in all directions burst upon us. Since
we had entered the mountain country there had
been many heavy storms, but I never experienced
so violent and long continued a storm of rain and
hail as this. Our path was a slight hollow through
the expanse of wheat which covered the plain. In
a few minutes this path became a muddy torrent.
The fields were completely swamped, and as it was
very difficult for the horses to make their way

ANATOLIC A. 275

through the stiff tenacious clay at the sides we
were obliged to follow the path, at times sinking
up to the horses' bellies in water and mud. We
pushed on thus for several miles ; though often the
horses would not face the storm, and we were
obliged to stop and turn our backs to the driving
hail and rain.

It was fortunate we had not taken the direct
route to Karajuk through the plain, for the whole
way would have been of this character, and we
should have found no village. At length the tor-
rent turned aside from our pathway into a lower
part of the plain, and we were able to advance a
little quicker ; but the rain did not cease, and it
was evident we could not reach Hadji Payam, our
intended destination, as it would have required
another two hours' march through the flooded
plain. Sunset was near. We did not know the
road — it was certain that it would be a bad road —
therefore at 5.45 P.M. we were reluctantly obliged
to stop at the little village of Bedrebey, which
is built on a small hill in the plain.

Not far from this village the Dollomon sud-
denly changes its course from north-west to south-
west ; we crossed the swollen river by a good stone
bridge, for it had now become unfordable.

The villagers supplied us with what we
needed ; and, at our request, did not trouble
us with a visit ; but the only lodging they
could find for us was a wretched room, dark

T 2

276 ANATOLICA.

and disagreeable, which they allowed to be very
bad accommodation ; but they could give us no
other, so we were fain to accept it.

Scarcely had we unloaded the horses, and
settled down in our wretched lodging, when the
rain ceased ; a faint glow from the setting sun
tinged the hills with pale gold ; the colours of
the distant landscape became indescribably beau-
tiful— some of the mountains were in faint sun-
light, some in tints of the deepest violet ; the
plain and the nearer hills formed one wide
sheet of emerald green — it was another of the
strange and beautiful atmospheric effects so
common in this wonderful land !

It disappeared in a few minutes, and was
succeeded by a placid evening. I could not
help contrasting the extreme beauty of this
country with the wretched state in which its
poor possessors are condemned to live !

We were told that these heavy showers of
rain were very beneficial to the crops ; that
they might be expected to continue for yet
another fifteen or eighteen days. Almost in-
variably the mornings were fine, and up to
mid-day, or one o'clock, not a cloud could be
seen ; but about mid-day clouds would begin
to gather round the mountain tops, the sound
of distant thunder would be heard, and soon
heavy showers would descend over the whole
face of the country.

ANATOLIC A. 277

But it was only thus in the highlands of the
interior. After we had left the plain of Kara-
juk, although we could see and hear the storm
behind us in the hills, no rain fell where we
were ; and it is not till far on in the autumn
that any considerable rainfall occurs in the low-
lands along the sea-coast.

The head man of the village had lived some
time in Alexandria, and could speak a little
Arabic. His house, which was of wood and of
two stories, was extremely neat and clean.
Evidently his travels had enlarged his views.

He said the village only consisted of fifteen
or twenty families. They had very bad water ;
but the expense of a conduit to bring the water
of a spring from the neighbouring hills would
be too heavy for so small a community.

The Government taxes, as usual, were very op-
pressive, and he showed me a small patch of
tobacco, for which they would have to pay a large
sum (I forget the amount). They may not even
grow a few plants free, for their own consumption.
It is hard on these poor people, who have so very
very few pleasures, to be debarred from using
tobacco, almost the only solace within their reach,
and which to them is truly a necessary of life !
The new Tobacco Regie (the monopoly having
been sold to a company by the Government) is the
cause of this.

The Armenian or Jewish capitalist at Stamboul

278 ANATOLICA.

will amass a colossal fortune; the poor patient
villager must submit to yet another squeeze of the
financial screw ! Such is government in Turkey !

I was surprised to see that the women of the
village wore no veil, but I was told that in a few
villages it was customary for the women to go
unveiled.

We spent a very wretched night at Bedrebey :
the close damp air of the room, and the noise of
the horses, which were tethered close to the door,
prevented sleep, and we rose next morning ex-
hausted. The food, too, supplied by the poor
villagers was almost uneatable.

May 1 8th. — We left Bedrebey at 8 A.M., and in
two hours reached the village of Hadji Pay am, a
pretty spot on the hill side, embowered in wood ;
above it are two large wooden houses, doubtless
the houses of the landowners. We could see
Karajuk Bazaar at a distance of about four hours
in the plain, opposite the ravine through which
we had passed on our route eastwards (on May
2nd).

Almost all the plain is sown with wheat, now five
or six inches high ; we rode for hours together
through it. There is but little wood, but a number
of wild pear trees grow sparsely over it. On this
side of the plain I saw no poppies, but it is this
district of Anatolia in which the best opium is
produced.

Next we passed the village of Evgarrah, an

ANATOLIC A. 279

extremely pretty spot ; above it is a wood of fine
pines and juniper trees. In all this district the
juniper seems to flourish, and the cemeteries are
planted with it.

We had now reached the north-west corner of
the plain, and the road to the plain of Dawas
led from it over an offset of Boz Dagh through the
Domou pass.

The pass itself presents nothing of any interest ;
it is not high nor steep. On the highest point
there is (as usual) a guard-house or cafe.

While we were resting here, two well-armed
Zeybeks came up, and we' engaged one of them
to act as our guide to Uzoumbounar.

I could not help admiring the grace and ease
with which he strode on ahead of our party. On
rough ground or amidst rocks he could easily out-
strip the horses.

I noticed also his sandals ; they were of un-
dressed hide, fitting closely to the shape of the
foot, and bound on by thongs over the instep and
above the ankles. They exactly resembled those
seen on the antique vases, &cc.

A long and easy descent through the forest led
to the village of Kilidja ; near it are a few scat-
tered heaps of stone, all that is left of the ancient
Sebastopolis.

The Cemetery of Kilidja seems well cared for.
It is enclosed with a wall. I saw no remains of
antiquity, but a number of grand old juniper trees

28o ANATOLIC A.

stand in it. Their huge trunks and boughs all
covered with lichen testify to their great age : they
must be many centuries old.

The road wound over and among hills covered
with underwood, till the plain of Dawas opened
before us. This is another rich district as large as
the plain of Karajuk, and famous for abundant
crops of excellent wheat.

Far down below us was the village of Uzoum-
bounar, where we were to lodge that night. The
mountains here are full of marble, white, and white
and red, and, as in so many other places, the
varieties of lava are extremely beautiful.

Arrived at the village, we had some difficulty in
finding a lodging ; the first place they showed us
was so bad that we loudly expostulated, for it was
no better than a ruined stable. At last one of the
villagers offered to let us a house for the night. It
was a dilapidated wooden room, the floor and
staircase in very bad repair ; but it was dry and
airy, so that after it had been well swept a few
mats made it tolerable. Nor were we annoyed by
the villagers crowding in. They brought us eggs,
yaourt, bread, firewood, and water, for which they
charged a high price next morning (/>., high for
Anatolia). Our interpreter cooked us some eggs
and a pilaff ; we always preferred his style of
cooking to the ordinary native cookery. For in-
stance, when they brought us fried eggs, often we
could not eat them ; they resembled bits of leather

ANATOLIC A. 281

swimming in butter, and nearly all their dishes are
equally bad.

But in the Orient one must be contented with a
little.

A man needs the digestion of an ostrich, the
skin of a rhinoceros, and the strength of a horse to
travel in Anatolia.

After Smyrna adieu to the conveniences, often
even to the decencies, of civilised life — comfort is
simply unattainable even to a moderate extent,
unless one travels *' en Milordos," with tents,
plenty of attendants, and ample supplies. Even
then there are many unavoidable privations, and
in that way one can gain but little acquaintance
with the people.

Still, with all its inconveniences and privations,
there is an abiding charm about Eastern travel,
which no other kind of travel possesses. One
forgets the grand hotel and the first class railway
carriage — but never the brilliant sunshine, the
noble scenery, the mid-day rest by some pellucid
fountain, or near some picturesque relic of a long
past age. Even the very danger and privation
add zest to one's enjoyment.

For in Anatolia there is danger, often from man,
still oftener from the climate ; beautiful although
the latter be, it is treacherous, and at times even
deadly ; and in case of sickness or a serious acci-
dent the chances of recovery would be small
indeed to the helpless stranger!

CHAPTER XV.

Plain of Dawas — Head-waters of the Harpasus — Springs in the River-
bed— Return to the Tcham Beli Pass — The armed Cafejis escort
us through the Forest — Attack by Brigands on the Servants of
a French Merchant — Sheikh's Tomb at foot of the Pass — Extreme
Beauty of this Spot — Continued Descent from the Highlands —
Change in the Season and in the appearance of the Country —
Harvest — Aphrodisias — Descent into the Mosynus Valley — Long
Ascent to Kara Soo — Heat in the Valley of the Mosynus — The
Cafe at Ali Aga Tchiftlik — Exhausted appearance of the People —
Site of Antiocheia ad Mseandrum— Change in the Springs owing
to advance of Summer — Ancient Wells — Vultures — Wooden
Bridge over the Maeander — Tchingannis (Gipsies), the only People
who importuned us for *' Bucksheesh " — Turks superior to Arabs
in this respect — Cafe at Nazli — Mocha Coffee — Use of Coffee
among the Turks — Carelessness of Peasants as to their way of
Living — Their wretched Dwellings — Reason — Lack of Gardens
and Vegetables in the Interior — Neglect of Domestic Matters —
Decadence of these Countries — Their Flourishing State in former
Ages — Population — Art — Luxury — Testimony of Livy on this
point — A Change for the better may be expected — Unpleasant
Ride from Nazli to Aidin — Heat — Camels — Arum Dracuncvdus —
Fertility of Maeander Valley — Might be much increased — Torrent
Beds — Kiouschk — Heat of Aidin — Khan — Antiquities at Aidin —
Departure for Smyrna — Illness of our Interpreter — Brigandage in
this District — Greek and Zeybek — Malaria in the Plain of Ephesus
— Tourbali (Metropolis) — Heat of Smyrna — Garden of Cafe —
Italian Theatre — Hotel Miiller — Excavations at Pergamus.

May 19th. — ^We left Uzoumbounar at 7.30 a.m.
After crossing the plain of Dawas we halted at
10.10 A.M. near a beautiful little river, deep, and
clear as crystal (the head-waters of the Harpasus) ;

ANATOLIC A. 283

a number of powerful springs were bursting up in
its bed. Here, as in several other places in the
highlands, I observed large beds of watercress, on
which the cattle were greedily feeding.

Just beyond it we re-entered the road by which
we had come at the beginning of our journey (on
April 26th), and leaving the village of Kara Hissar
on our right, we ascended to the Tcham Beli pass.
Boz Dagh and the plain of Dawas, which I had so
much admired when I first saw them, are far in-
ferior to the grander scenery of the interior. At
1. 1 5 P.M. we reached the cafe at the top of the
pass, and left it at 3 p.m. The two cafejis loaded
their guns and accompanied us for about a mile
and a half through the wood. They told our
interpreter that a few days before the servants of a
French merchant who is a buyer of walnut-wood
in that district had been attacked in the pass
because it was supposed they had money with
them ; and one of them had received a sabre
wound, of which he had died.

Our interpreter only told us this when w^e
reached Nazli ; he styled it " le drame de Tcham
Beli," and said he had not mentioned it before for
fear of alarming us.

We could not help laughing at his serious air ;
but although in this, as in other similar cases, we
could not obtain precise information, I believe
that the affair really happened as described.

In descending on foot a steep and rocky portion

284 ANATOLIC A.

of the road Mr. Seiff entangled his spur in his
riding gaiter, and fell, cutting his hand severely.
This, I am thankful to say, was the only accident
of any kind that befell us during the whole journey.

At the bottom of the pass we halted a few
minutes at the sheikh's tomb which I have before
mentioned.

The extreme beauty of this lonely spot was
remarkable, and while I was admiring it in silence
the muleteer coming up said, " Ah, Tchelebi (sir !),
is it not pretty?" "Yes," I replied; "why did
you not bring us here instead of stopping at that
nasty cafe ?" "I forgot it," he said ; " but what a
fine place it would be to kill a sheep in!" [i.e., to
stop and feast).

There were five or six small knolls, crowned by
some fine oaks and a number of venerable plane
trees — one of immense size and hollow ; the turf,
thick and soft as velvet, was exquisitely green ;
from beneath one of the knolls a plentiful spring of
water softly issued with a gentle murmur ; wild
flowers and singing birds were not wanting ; and if
one could choose one's last resting place it would
not be easy to find a spot more tranquil or more
lovely than this. The Turks always show great
respect to burial places, and this moss-covered
tomb has no doubt remained untouched for cen-
turies. We left the place with regret.

Hitherto we had traversed the highlands of
the interior ; henceforward, our course was a

ANATOLICA. 285

constant descent towards the Mseander valley
and the sea-coast.

The seasons, too, seemed changed ; we had
come down from spring to summer ! The trill
of the nightingale, with which nearly every
thicket had been vocal, was now silenced.

When we ascended the valley, about three weeks
before, everything was beautifully green ; the
wheat was yet in bloom, the grass full of gay
flowers. But three weeks had wrought a great
change ; and now the whole face of the country
was covered with ripe yellow crops, and every-
where harvest was proceeding. As usual, the
women were the chief workers ; they were
busily harvesting, in troops of fifteen or twenty ;
but I saw very few men indeed at work. The
grass was fast withering ; in another three
weeks hardly any verdure will be left in the
lowlands. The highest peak of Cadmus, which
was covered with snow when we first passed it,
was now nearly bare ; and the rays of the
descending sun, as it shone full in our face,
smote like burning arrows.

From the foot of the Tcham Beli the wide
valley gradually descends past Geera (Aphro-
disias) to Ali Aga Tchiftlik, w^here the Mosynus
enters the plain of the Mseander.

We passed through Geera without halting.
The position of the town is good ; and, doubtless,
it was healthy, although extremely hot in summer.

2 86 ANATOLIC A.

The beauty of its ruins, and their material —
fine white marble — so different to that of the
older Greek cities of the interior, all testify to
the wealth of this place in old times.

A long ride of two hours, or more, still re-
mained. Kara Soo was clearly visible, high
up, on the other side of the valley ; but there
were several long ascents and descents to
make on this side of the river, and one very
long and steep ascent on the other side, before
we reached our destination.

The valley of the Mosynus slopes very
steeply from the mountains to the river on both
sides, but especially on the west. Though in-
terrupted at intervals, this general inclination
is very regular, both laterally and longitudi-
nally, from above Geera to the river's junction
with the Mseander.

Darkness had come on when we reached the
stream ; we crossed it by a bridge thrown over
the deep ravine through which it flows, and
then we began to mount the opposite ascent.
It was past 9 p.m. when we reached the khan,
both men and horses quite exhausted by the
heat and the ride of above ten hours, not in-
cluding stoppages.

Our object of reaching Smyrna in time for
the steamer of May 25th was now within our reach.
Two long and hot days' journey still remained to
Aidin, but it would be on level ground.

ANATOLICA. 287

Accordingly, tired as we felt, we were in no
hurry to start next morning, although my com-
panion, with his usual energy, was for starting
very early.

May 2oth. — It was past g A.M. when we left
Kara Soo. The heat in this narrow valley, re-
flected from the white soil and from the chalk
cliffs — often eighty to a hundred feet high — was
intense ; and we gladly sheltered ourselves once
more in the garden at Ali Aga Tchiftlik. As
usual, the cafe was full, and we recognised
several faces we had seen there on our previous
visit. Exclamations of " Mashallah ! Ma-ashallah I"
greeted us as we rode up. The people seemed
utterly exhausted ; and, indeed, the heat is as
oppressive as in Egypt, and that without our
splendid sea-breeze.

There are no antiquities in the valley, and
the hill, which is the site of Antiocheia ad
Maeandrum, appears covered only by great
mounds of rubbish and the foundations of
walls.

Our muleteer had invited us to a dinner,
which was to be prepared at his house in
Nazli, we ourselves, of course, remaining at
the khan.

Accordingly he rode forward to make pre-
parations, and we followed at our leisure.

It was not until nearly 6 P.M. that the heat
began to abate. The fountain west of the

288 ANATOLIC A.

entrance to the Ak Soo valley, that we found so
deliciously cool on our journey up, was now
absolutely tepid, and the springs on the low
ground are beginning to drv^ up. The woods
and yailas on the Harpasa mountains still
looked fresh and green — perhaps the frequent
thunder-showers had kept up their verdure ; but
it was evident that burning summer was at
hand. At certain parts of to-day's ride we
observed ancient wells of great depth still in
use. The water is raised by means of the
" shadoof — a high pole working upon a pivot ;
to the upper end of this a long brass chain is
fastened and a wooden bucket. We found the
harvest not more advanced here than about
Geera ; but the crops were richer, the land
being far more fertile.

Not far from the river a flock of vultures
was so busily feeding on the carcase of a
camel that the birds allowed us to approach
within forty or fifty paces before they took
their lazy flight.

The rickety old bridge over the Mseander ap-
pears not likely to remain serviceable much longer
without extensive repairs ; many of the transverse
joists are quite worn, and some are broken. If a
man or horse fell into the stream now, he would
escape with difficulty, if at all. The current is
rapid, and where the river is not deep itself, it has
a deep bed of tenacious mud.

ANATOLIC A. 289

The marshes to the north of the bridge were
full of Yourouks, or more probably Tchingannis
(gipsies of the country). Their cattle were small,
but well shaped ; the children and girls were often
very good looking, and they seemed in comfortable
circumstances. These were the only people we met
during our whole journey who importuned us for
** bucksheesh."

There is a fund of native dignity in the Turkish
character, which generally prevents them from
begging, although evidently they may be ex-
tremely poor ; in this respect the Osmanli pre-
sents a marked contrast to the Arab, especially to
the Arab of the Nile villages.

We reached the khan at Nazli at 8.20 P.M., after
passing through a quarter of the town in which
are many really elegant houses mostly belonging
to Greek and Armenian merchants, and here, for
the first and only time on our journey, they
brought us really good coffee. As a rule, the
coffee given in the interior of Anatolia, even
though the berries be roasted before you and pre-
pared in your presence, is very inferior, and resem-
bles bitter water more than anything else. But
the khanji at Nazli brought the true Arabian
coffee, such as it is when served in a native gentle-
man's house at Cairo — rich, creaming, and aro-
matic.

It is laughable to witness the fuss the Turks of
Anatolia make about their " kahve " ; it is even

2go ANATOLICA.

more ridiculous than the fuss we Britons make
about our beer. Certainly in most cases a glass
of good fresh water would be preferable, but it is
the custom to present the stuff always, and on
every possible occasion.

The carelessness of the Turkish peasants about
their personal comforts, even in the most ordinary
matters, is very strange. Although it would be
very little more expensive to make their houses
roomy and comfortable, they still build and live
in the same kind of hovels that their ancestors
inhabited. The doorways seem expressly con-
structed to break the head of the unwary. I have
seen doorways not more than four feet eight inches
high, and the walls being thick, many a severe
blow have I given my head, when passing, through
raising it too soon. The windows, again — that is,
when there are any — are simply small apertures
in the wall, so that the room is always dark and
ill-ventilated. The people see and acknowledge
the inconvenience, but the only reason they can
give for keeping it up is " custom." It is true
there is a deeper reason — the least appearance of
wealth or comfort would but expose the unlucky
peasant to extortion and injustice ; in this respect
he is no better off than his Arab congener, but,
unlike the fellah, he has no comfortable store of
sovereigns or napoleons carefully stowed away in
the floor or wall of his hut. I looked in vain for
a garden round most of their villages. They do

ANATOLIC A. 291

not know the potato ; it is only just coming into
cultivation along the coast districts. We saw
scarcely any vegetables, and in the large village
of Horzoom the Mudir told us that he had been
obliged to import seeds for his own garden, the
village producing none.

Except in the valley of the Maeander, and a few
of the larger villages, they do not seem even to
take the least care of their fruit trees, and many
of the mountain villages have no fruit trees ex-
cepting the walnut, which grows wild and thrives
everywhere. I have before spoken of their cookery
— had it not been for the excellent yaourt, eggs,
and water, I do not know how we should have
lived. In short, it is difiicult to conceive, without
witnessing it, in what a wretched and barbarous
style the common people of this country live ; of
course the larger towns and villages are a little
more civilised, but I refer to the lower classes in
general. Whether it be from natural apathy, or
the effects of their most miserable government,
these poor people appear utterly careless about
their personal well-being, and, as a rule, sunk in
the deepest poverty. The portion of Anatolia
which we visited is, perhaps naturally, the richest
in the whole country, but the same aspect of decay
prevails almost everywhere out of the ^laeander
valley. How, indeed, can it be otherwise with a
nation whose Government does absolutely nothing
for it, but, on the contrary, drains it of all its

u 2

292 ANATOLICA.

resources, and mortgages the industry of genera-
tions to come ? In short, the provinces are sacrificed
to keep up the capital.

It was not so in ancient times : all those desolate
and lonely districts through which we had passed
were once filled with thriving cities and a teeming
population. The mountainous province of Lycia
alone once contained sixty towns, which in Pliny's
days had diminished to thirty-six,* and the richer
provinces were still better peopled.

Art was yet more advanced in Asiatic Greece
than in Greece proper; the culture and wealth of
the Asiatics are evident from the noble remains of
their cities and public works — grand even in ruin
— and from the immense sums wrung from them
by their Roman conquerors. The refinement and
luxurious style in which they lived are testified by
the historian Livy, who expressly derives from
them the first introduction of foreign luxury into
Rome,t and this at a time when the Romans were

* Pliny, v., 27.
t Livy (xxxix. 6) — "It was reported that he (C. Manlius Vulso,
the Consul, B.C. 187) had corrupted by every kind of indulgence the
discipline of the army, which his predecessor had strictly maintained.
And the tidings of what was done in the province far away did not
injure his reputation so much as that which could every day be seen
amongst the troops. For it was the army of Asia which first intro-
duced foreign luxury into the city. They were the first to import into
Rome couches with' bronze feet, expensive carpets, tapestry, and other
woven fabrics ; and, what was then considered luxurious furniture,
tables with a single stand, and inlaid sideboards. Then, also, enter-
tainments of female lute players, and c^tharists, and pantomimists
began to be customary during banquets, and the feasts themselves
began to be prepared with greater taste and expense. The cook too,

ANATOLIC A. 293

little better than barbarians in all else but the arts
of war.

Sad indeed has been the destiny of these
countries, so highly favoured by nature ; but we
may hope that a change is at hand. The old con-
dition of things cannot continue much longer ; the
arts, the arms, the civilising, humanising influences
of the Christian nations are daily breaking down
the barriers which shut out the Ottoman Empire
from the western world. " The night is far spent,
the day is at hand ! "

May 2 1 St. — Warned by our experience of yes-
terday we started earlier — at 8 A.M. This day's
journey was most unpleasant. The road through-
out is level and with much shade, as it passes
through several extensive cemeteries thickly
planted with trees ; tall hedges of cane border its
sides, and luxuriant vineyards and fig plantations
cover the face of the country. Cafes and places for
rest are numerous, and the supply of water is most
abundant ; at almost every half mile there is a
fountain. But the burning heat, the dust, the long
trains of laden camels, the disgustingly fetid odour
of the " Arum dracunculus," which grew in every
hedge and was now in full flower, all combined to
render this a very disagreeable day's ride.

who by the Romans of an earlier age was both considered and
employed as the meanest slave, began to be held in high esteem ; and
that which had been only a menial service was now considered an art.
Yet what was then seen was hardly even the seed of the luxury to
corrie !"

294 ANATOLIC A.

Mehmet stopped at every cafe, wherever he could
find an excuse for stopping, and we drank at
almost every fountain we passed ; but we obtained
no comfort, and quenched not our thirst.

The hills lie at some distance back from the
road, and the water, deliciously cold where it issues
from the hill side, becomes quite tepid by the time
it reaches the road ; for the water pipes being on
the surface or a very little below the ground, the
sun renders the water quite warm ; had they been
laid at a depth of five or six feet this would have
secured a cool and refreshing draught.

Rich and well cultivated (comparatively) as is
this valley of the Maeander, very much more might
be done with it ; the inundations of the river cause
great damage — these should be restrained by
dykes — and much land is lost in great hedge-rows,
&c. But it is useless to expect in an Oriental the
energy and improving spirit of a European race.
The soil is a whitish clayey earth, which has a
peculiar lustre when smoothed, as if smeared with
white of egg. It is of tertiary formation. The
torrents from Mount Messogis cause much damage.
Their inundations bring down vast quantities of
gravel and pebbles. Streams which at this season
are but scanty rivulets flow in a shallow gravelly
bed often a hundred yards in width.

At Kiouschk, our last station, we had some
difliculty in making our people start, so exhausted
were they. At about 7 p.m. we reached Aidin,

ANATOLICA. 295

and having had enough of khans tried to find a
lodging at an hotel ; but the only hotel had just
been closed owing to the bankruptcy of its pro-
prietor, so we were reluctantly obliged to lodge
once more at a khan. Aidin possesses some very
interesting relics of antiquity : amongst others (as
we heard), one of the best preserved and most
beautiful of sarcophagi lies in the courtyard of the
Government house. But we were so utterly ex-
hausted by the intense and stifling heat that I do
not think anything would have induced us to stay
another day there ; and the ruins of the ancient
Tralles are high above the town, on a flat terrace
projecting from the mountain, so that to visit them
would have necessitated another day's ride. The
modern town seems a well built and thriving place,
but its position is far inferior to the site of the
ancient city.

May 22nd. — After bidding adieu to the family of
Mr. Bradech (who was himself absent from Aidin),
we left by rail for Smyrna.

Our interpreter could not come to bid us adieu at
the railway station, for he was again laid up by an
attack of fever. His Greek friends seemed to think
that we had been very fortunate in escaping all
perils of robbers; but these Levantines are very
timorous, and make mountains out of molehills.
Whatever may once have been the case, whatever
may be the case hereafter, at present in this part of
Anatolia there appears to be but little danger.

296 ANATOLIC A.

Unfortunately there is no certainty that the present
tranquillity will continue, for it depends upon the
goodness of the harvest, the vigilance of the autho-
rities, &c., &c.*

Our companion in the train was a stout
Turkish officer — a very jovial and pleasant fel-
low. He told me that the Zeybeks used to rob
at times ; but that at present the only real bri-
gands were Greeks, who came from the islands,
and sometimes from Greece proper. In short,
the Zeybeks were maligned, and were better
than their reputation ; besides, in that district,
the railway has greatly discouraged brigandage.
The people, too, might be much better off, if
they would be industrious ; but they were idle.

At Aiasolouk we saw the English keeper of
the restaurant ; both he and all the others at
the railway station looked thin and sallow.
Malaria is already appearing in the plain of
Ephesus ; soon it will be dangerous to visit the
site of the old city. Near Baindir I saw on
the slope of the mountain to the west of the
railway, and about ten miles distant, what ap-
peared to be an ancient fortification — a large
space enclosed with lofty walls. This is the
site of Metropolis, half-way between Smyrna
and Ephesus, now called Tourbali.

* The Constantinople journals for July, August, and September,
1873, ^'■^ f^^^ of accounts of brigandage committed in these very
districts — especially near Adalia.

ANATOLICA. 297

The stifling heat of Smyrna reminded me of
the worst autumnal weather in Alexandria.
The Smyrniots say that when the Imbat (sea-
breeze) blows the weather is agreeable. This
may be so ; but only those who have houses
on the sea-beach can enjoy it. The sea-breeze
cannot enter the town, for it is planned in such
a way that the streets are mostly at right
angles to the breeze, and Smyrna has no
public promenade. Unless we took the rail-
way, and went out into the country, there was
but one place where we could obtain even a breath
of fresh air, viz., a small beer-garden near our
hotel. Thither we usually resorted, to eat ices
and hear the Italian comedy, which was really
very well managed. Our hotel (the Hotel
Miiller) was one of the best in Smyrna, which
is not saying very much. The fatigue we had
undergone, and the heat, prevented us from
making excursions in the neighbourhood.

At the hotel was a German engineer (Mr.
Humann), in the service of the Ottoman Govern-
ment, who had lately been employed in making
extensive excavations at Pergamus, and had
been very successful. It is no longer easy for
Europeans to obtain permission for making
antiquarian researches, and it is to be re-
gretted that the Sultan's museum at Constan-
tinople is not better arranged. Though the
destruction of the works of ancient art in these

298 ANATOLICA.

countries has been immense in past ages —
commencing with the early Christian times —
yet intelligent research would, no doubt, find
much still remaining. But for this European
learning and taste are required, and the Egyptian
museum at Cairo is a fine example of what may
then be accomplished.

On May 25th I left for Constantinople.

CHAPTER XVI.

Difficulties of Travel in Anatolia as compared with Syria — Drago-
mans— Supplies — Tent Life — Climate — Malaria — Malarious Dis-
tricts— Lycaonia— Beauty of the Country — Mountains — Antiquities
— Sporting— Game — The Tiger — Lion — Panther — Anecdote of a
Panther— Forest — The Woodless District — Destruction of Forests —
Causes — Carelessness of Government and People — Brigandage —
Present State of Country — Government tries to maintain Order —
Diary of Mr. Colnaghi in Lycia in 1854 — Excesses caused by Want
and Desperation of Peasantry — Our own Experience — Lefteri, the
Brigand of Bithynia — Feeling of People towards Europeans —
Sentiments of Turks of higher Rank — Change since Crimean War
— Resources of Empire can only be developed by European Help —
Turkish Distrust of Europeans — Anecdote of Abbas Pasha, Vice-
roy of Egypt — Treatment of Orientals by Europeans often Unjust —
Canal of Suez— Jealousy of European Employes — Corruption of the
Administrations — Publicity stifled — No Public Opinion — Want of
Education among the Turks — Education among other Races of the
Empire — Ottoman Patriotism — Rayah Patriotism — Discordant
Populations of the Empire — The Ruling Race — Gradual Rise of the
Christian Populations — Comparison of Osmanli with European —
His good Qualities — Often deteriorated by contact with Europeans —
Disadvantages of Agricultural Population — Heavy Military Expen-
diture— Provinces sacrificed to Constantinople — Want of Labour and
Capital —European Improvements a doubtful Benefit to People
without a Reform of Government — Apparently Defenceless State
of Constantinople — Fleet — Comparison of Turkey with Russia —
Conquest of Turkey by Russia dangerous to Europe — Concessions
made to Russia — What is the greatest danger to Ottoman Empire
— Population of Turkey — Polygamy — Plague — Cholera — Causes of
Decline in Population — Decline in some Districts undoubted ; but
in others doubtful.

From the incidents of our journey, it will be
evident that travel in Asia Minor is attended
with considerable privation and exposure. In

300 ANATOLICA.

Palestine and Southern Syria the traveller finds
little or no difficulty. The Syrian and Egyp-
tian dragomans are well acquainted with the
country. The stations for encamping are well
known. The people readily bring supplies. It
is easy to procure what the European stranger
requires. In consequence, tent life there is
possible — even agreeable in fine weather.

But it is altogether different in Asia Minor.
It is almost impossible to find a dragoman
acquainted with the country ; and the supply
of provisions is scanty and bad. Of course a
traveller is more independent if he uses a tent,
and in fine weather he would find it much
more agreeable than lodging in the native
houses ; but a tent adds greatly to the expense
and trouble, as extra men and horses must be
taken.

The climate, too, of the interior is for a
large part of the year rainy and inclement, so
that often it is not advisable, often not possi-
ble, to encamp.

Malarious fever is always to be dreaded in
Asia Minor, and nothing more exposes the tra-
veller to its attacks than becoming chilled after
fatigue and exposure to the sun : a single
night's " camping out " in an unhealthy spot —
and such places are not always easy to dis-
tinguish — may cost a man his life, or entail
upon him months of wasting sickness.

ANATOLICA. 301

In Alexandria I have known several in-
stances of such sickness, and even death, in
the case of travellers coming from the Holy
Land.

The most malarious parts of the country are
the narrow river valleys and the low plains
under the mountains along the southern coast ;
but worst, perhaps, of all is the ancient
Lycaonia, which is a part of the high central
plateau. (In general, however, the interior is
not unhealthy.)

This was once well peopled (Derbe and
Lystra were here), but is now almost de-
serted, without cultivation, and treeless. The
whole district is a succession of barren downs,
parched and almost waterless in summer (ex-
cept in wells of immense depth) ; but inundated
during winter. There being few or no outlets
through the Taurus for the streams to reach
the sea, vast marshes are formed, which gra-
dually dry up in summer, and during the pro-
cess exhale an intense malaria. Almost the
whole district is volcanic and full of salt lakes,
some of which are very large.

There is such an utter absence of the con-
veniences of civilised life amongst the natives of
Anatolia that few men would care to undergo the
inevitable privations of travel in such a country.

But if the traveller has resolution enough to
brave these discomforts, he will be amply

302 ANATOLICA.

rewarded. I never beheld so lovely a country. In
picturesque beauty it is far before Italy in general ;
even the charms of Naples and its environs are
equalled by many a district we passed through,
perhaps not visited once in fifty years by a
European. Then the mountain scenery is both
grand and beautiful : many of the mountain ranges
of Lycia rise above the limits of perpetual snow ;
the ranges of Caria and Phrygia, on the other
hand, less elevated, lose their snow as summer
advances. Indeed the whole province of Lycia is
composed of immense mountain chains intersected
by narrow valleys, which exhibit the most lux-
uriant vegetation, with an almost tropical heat in
summer, and a few elevated plains, some of very
considerable extent.

The antiquities have unfortunately suffered much
from time, earthquakes, and human destroyers, but
even the remains are very fine, and amply reward
the explorer. But the country offers no other
attraction.

There is no " sport" ; a gun on such a journey as
ours is a useless incumbrance. It is true that in
the mountains there are bears and panthers (kap-
lan), and in the winter abundance of woodcock,
and in the marshes wild fowl and snipe ; wild boar,
too, is found everywhere, and in the plains a few
hares and Syrian partridges. But the former is a
troublesome and dangerous chase, and, moreover,
not likely to prove successful, and the latter is not

ANATOLICA. 303

worth the trouble. The tiger (pelenk), though
common further east,* is not known in Asia Minor.
The great Turkish traveller Evliya Eifendi (a.d.
161 1- 1 680) mentions having seen the skin of a very-
large lion in the town of Kara Hissar, near
Erzeroum, which had infested the district for a
period of seven years. This no doubt was a stray
specimen from the country far to the south-east,
for the lion is not now found in Asia Minor. But
it is probable that he was once not uncommon, to
judge at least from the Lycian monuments, on
which the effigy of this animal frequently occurs.
Panthers seem to have been at all times plentiful.
There exist letters from one Coelius, a candidate for
the sedileship at Rome, to Cicero, who was then at
Laodicea, begging him to procure panthers for
Coelius to exhibit to the Roman populace. The
people of Cibyra and Pamphylia are to be asked
to furnish some of these animals, and Cicero seems
to have satisfied his friend's wish.

Much mischief is no doubt done to the flocks by
these animals, but, though I inquired, I heard of
no loss of human life by them, though at one of
the villages (I think Aghlasun) I was told of a
panther that had come up to a little girl a short
distance from the village, and begun to play round
her as a cat round its prey, but before any hurt
was done the creature was frightened away by

* Atkinson, in his "Siberia," speaks of the tiger as very common
and very destructive in that country.

304 ANATOLICA.

some men who hurried up. Foxes, wolves, and
bears are numerous. I saw a number of their
skins at Almalu.

There is an immense extent of forest throughout
Asia Minor. The very numerous mountain chains
are nearly all well wooded, but the forests of the
south are far inferior to those of the Black Sea
coast. Much of the interior, containing the ancient
provinces ofLycaonia, Galatia, part of Phrygia and
Cappadocia, seems to have been without wood
from time immemorial.* Rich as the country yet
is in forests, it would appear to have been richer
still at an earlier period, but the neglect of the
Governments and people, the destructive wars of
which it has been the scene, the incursions and
final settlement there of the pastoral tribes, who
every year destroy by fire a great extent of wood
in order to obtain fresh pasturage — all have helped
to destroy the forests ; nothing, indeed, but the
scantiness of the population and the want of
roads, &c., has in many districts saved those that
still exist. It is not in the nature of an Oriental,
either Government or people, to make the least
sacrifice for future generations ; and as to replant-
ing and restrictions, these are not to be expected.

* Livy (xxxviii., i8) — "Then the army began to march through
the district called ' Axylon ' [i.e., ' the woodless'). It is so called
from its real state, for not only is it without wood, but it does not pro-
duce even thorns or any other fuel. The inhabitants use the dung of
cattle instead of firewood." This practice is common all over Central
Asia, and even in Egypt and Syria.

ANATOLICA. 305

Next, as regards brigandage. At present (1872)
the state of the country is tranquil, and the people
seem well disposed, but it is always uncertain how
long this state of things may continue.

There are no professional robbers amongst the
Turks of south-west Anatolia, as amongst the
Greeks ; and the authorities in general do their
best to maintain public security. But sometimes
the governor of a province is remiss, or poverty
and desperation drive men to brigandage, and then
of course there is great danger ; from the nature
of the country, too, brigands can easily maintain
themselves. In the diary of Mr. Colnaghi's jour-
ney through Lycia (April iith-i8th, 1854) occurs
the following passage* : —

" The district of Asia Minor which we visited is
at present in a very bad state. The greater part
of the country is in the hands of Xebecques, or
mountain robbers, and in many cases the local
authorities have left their posts. On the mountains
near Almalu a band of eighty Xebecques are out ;
near Adalia, on the gulf of Pamphylia, some of
these robbers have killed a Moreote merchant. At
Daliani, nearly opposite Rhodes, the country is in
the hands of a band of four hundred Xebecques,
headed by Ali Bey, son of the Aga of Chorgies
(Koudjezr), who has quarrelled with the other Agas
of the district, and is consequently in rebellion.

* Newton's Travels and Researches in Asia Minor.

3o6 ANATOLICA.

In the skirmishes that have taken place the
authorities have in most instances been worsted.
A boat sent from Rhodes to Phineka by a mer-
chant to pay for some corn, with ^400 on board,
was attacked by pirates near Myra, and the money
taken. The same band, seventeen in number, the
day before yesterday attacked and sunk a small boat
from the island of Syme, and murdered the crew.
There is great scarcity of food in the country. At
Daliani the people would not let a Sardinian mer-
chant load a cargo of corn, but threatened to kill
him if he persisted, &c."

Personally we met with no molestation ; * on the
contrary, we were everjrwhere treated with hospi-
tality and respect ; but on one occasion we might
well have met with a very unpleasant adventure.

We had intended returning to Aidin by way of
Makri and Moolla, but at Almalu we changed our
plan and returned by way of Lake Caralis and
Cibyra. Had we taken the route originally
intended we should have reached the neighbourhood
of Makri on the very day that a band of moun-
taineers had come down and pillaged all that
district. This band — said to be seventy or eighty
strong — regularly blockaded Makri and Leveesi,
captured and held to heavy ransom the captains of
some Greek coasting vessels — they even attacked

* Since writing the above the state of Anatolia has become very
disturbed ; the Constantinople journals arr full of accounts of brigandage
and robbery from every quarter.

ANATOLICA 307

the Government troops and douaniers at Kalamaki
and fought a regular battle with them. Nor was it
till after troops had been sent from MooUa that the
band was dispersed, some of their number being
slain, and Moustat Oglou, their leader, with others,
being taken prisoner.

Should the traveller unfortunately fall amongst
brigands it is useless attempting resistance. They
never attack in the open, nor except in over-
whelming numbers, but take up a position behind
trees or rocks in some forest or defile. The first
notice the traveller has of their presence is a
summons to surrender, which if not at once
obeyed will be inevitably enforced by a shot.

A few years ago the whole province of Bithynia
was infested by the band of Lefteri, a Greek
brigand. This band numbered some four hundred
members, and so confident did they become, that a
regular ofiice was opened at Broussa for the sale of
safe-conducts to travellers and merchants. The
rate of the charge was regulated according to the
social standing of the applicant.

Lefteri was rather a chivalrous thief, and he and
his men were welcome visitors in the villages,
where they spent money freely. The Turkish
troops on the contrary were dreaded and detested,
for their discipline was scandalous, and wherever
they came they plundered and ill-treated the
villagers. Lefteri, tired at last of his brigand life
and hard pressed, managed to have a petition

X 2

3o8 ANATOLICA.

conveyed to the Sultan while on his way to the
Friday's public prayers, in which he offered to
leave the Ottoman territory and retire to Greece
on condition that his life and ill-gotten gains were
guaranteed. But the Turkish authorities refused
his overtures, and soon afterwards he was killed.

Manouli, who was afterwards killed near Smyrna,
was one of his lieutenants, but Lefteri was obliged
to dismiss him on account of his atrocious cruelty.

Next as regards the feeling of the people towards
Europeans. The people generally are friendly, but
this is far from being the case with the Turks of
higher rank. Formerly their ruling sentiment was
contempt. As Muslemin they looked down upon
" Giaours," and even now, although they cannot
help perceiving the superiority of the Europeans
in art, science, war, in all material improvements,
they resolutely close their eyes to the fact, and
there is still a large amount of contempt remaining.
Europeans are mere buyers and sellers (" alish
verish " men)* — the European is but a " base
mechanical "—they are his superiors in religion, in
metaphysics, in all true knowledge. Trade is left
to the Frank, Greek, Armenian, Jew — agriculture
to the villager — the only or most worthy occupation
for a Turkish gentleman is Government employ in
the service of. the Padshah, who is the greatest
monarch upon earth.

* The common Arabic title of the European — " hawajah " —
means literally " a pedlar."

ANATOLICA. 309

But the events of the last twenty-five years have
much shaken this feeling, or rather have mingled
with it a large amount of jealousy, fear, and hatred
of the European. Since the Crimean war the state
of affairs in the Government and in the capital has
been influenced by Europe to an extent unknown
before. The Ottoman Empire,, for good or evil,
is now a part of the European family, and the old
condition of exclusiveness is every day disap-
pearing more and more under the force of
circumstances.

But this result is very much against the will of
the higher classes, although they cannot prevent it.

The resources of the empire are vast, and only
Europeans have the means and knowledge to
employ or to develop them ; but rather than allow
the " Giaours " to do this, they prefer to leave them
undeveloped and unused^

Does any one suppose,, for instance, that if the
Turks as a nation could prevent it they would
suffer railroads to pass through their country ? Far
from it. Every similar improvement brings them
more and more into contact and relation with
Christian Europe, and in the same degree tends to
shorten the time of their exclusive rule in the
empire.

Some of the more enlightened Osmanlis may
wish for them — may see their absolute necessity —
but I think the general wish of the Osmanlis is
simply to be left to themselves.

3IO ANATOLIC A.

I have heard an anecdote in point of the late
Abbas Pasha (Viceroy of Egypt about 1848-55).
The Egyptian Railway was projected, and a
deputation came out from England to urge upon
His Highness the necessity and advantages of the
railway, &c., &c. The deputation was introduced
to the Viceroy by the then British Consul, and in
the course of the interview one of its members
wished the Viceroy to be told that " unless the
means of transit were improved commerce would
take the route round the Cape of Good Hope,
and Egypt would be forsaken." When this was
explained to the Viceroy — for he spoke no Euro-
pean language — he remarked somewhat to this
effect, " Would to God the Europeans would all go
round the Cape of Grood Hope, and that we never
saw their faces here!" I do not know if the
remark was translated to the members of the
deputation, but if so they were doubtless a little
surprised. Abbas Pasha is said to have been
somewhat " farouche," and no great lover of Euro-
peans— unlike his successors. But this is still the
predominant feeling in Turkey, however much it
may have changed in Egypt, and, as it would
appear, in Persia also. The Osmanli only asks to
be let alone.

And, alas ! we must admit that this feeling of
distrust is in many instances only too well
grounded. The treatment of Orientals by Euro-
peans has not always been such as would bear

ANATOLICA. 311

examination ;* and no doubt the Turks have often
felt that their only safety lay in opposing a dogged
unreasoning resistance to all change and all
suggestions.

There are able, enlightened, and honourable
Europeans in the service of the Turkish Govern-
ment, but they can effect nothing. Jealousy of
race and religion, the supineness of the national
character, religious fatalism, hinder, if they cannot
quite prevent, them from benefiting the Govern-
ment which they serve. But one of the greatest
obstacles is the deep, incurable corruption of the
Turkish administrations. Disinterestedness in the
public service is a thing* almost unknown. It is
scarcely possible to transact business with any of
the Government departments without " smoothing
the way." The perfect truth of this will be
admitted by all who have lived in the Levant, and
the strangest stories are extant of the corruption
thence resulting. And should any one dare to
animadvert on this common evil, the whole power
of the authorities is exerted to stifle publicity.

Only a few months since (in 1872) one of the

* Witness the treatment of the Egyptian Government and people
by the late Imperial Government of France in the matter of the Suez
Canal. For an enterprise which entails absolute injury upon Egypt,
enormous sums of money, and all sorts of concessions, right to forced
labour, &c., &c., were wrung from an unwilling Government. Indeed
it is not too much ro say that without the enforced assistance of the
Egyptians the Canal of Suez would not have been made. More than
half its cost was defrayed by Egypt, and the sufferings it caused the
fellahs were extreme.

312 ANATOLIC A.

leading journals of Constantinople was suspended
for writing on this subject — it must be allowed in
somewhat indecorous terms. There is no public
opinion, or next to none. How, indeed, should
there be when the great mass of the population is
quite uneducated ? The instruction which most
Turks possess is limited to reading and writing,
and repeating portions of the Koran. An im-
mense percentage of the population cannot even
do thus much ; and this while the Greeks, Arme-
nians, and Slavonians in the empire are making
every effort to advance education amongst them-
selves, and in the large towns are founding and
supporting excellent schools for the purpose.

The Turk does not seem to possess what we call
patriotism.* If there is anything in him at all
resembling that feeling it is devotion to El Islam,
and above all to the Sultan as its outward repre-
sentative. And what interest can the Rayah feel
in an empire of which he is simply a tolerated
member, not a citizen ? And this peculiar con-
dition of the empire exposes it to the constant
danger of being unfairly influenced by foreign
Powers. The populations of the empire are so
many divided and discordant nationalities, and the
governing class has made no effort to conciliate
any of them till quite recently.

* At Nebha, a village in Caele Syria, I once heard a peasant openly
declare that they " could not be worse off under the Europeans" ; and
only a faint objection was made by the other villagers who were
present.

ANATOLIC A. 313

And yet not one of these nationalities would be
able to take the place of the Osmanlis supposing
the latter to be deprived of their supremacy ; their
number is insufftcient, they have not the governing
faculty, the imperial character. Taken as a whole
they are physically, even morally, inferior ; for
generally the one race has always ruled — the
others have been always subservient and op-
pressed, and their respective characters have been
modified in consequence.

Perhaps before long all this may be changed ;
and, indeed, the only salvation for the empire con-
sists in placing all the populations on a just and
equal level. If once this result — well nigh im-
possible, it is true — could be brought about, the
Ottoman Empire would have little to fear from
foreign enemies, for this would inevitably bring
about a reform in the Government.

The Christian populations are, it is true, slowly
and gradually obtaining a small share in the
government of the country — some of the provinces
even have Christian governors — and doubtless if
the Turks had confidence in them and felt that
they could trust them they would be admitted to a
wider share. But there is a deep gulf betw^een
them yet, and the Osmanlis dread the conse-
quences of giving way ; but sooner or later they
will be obliged to yield.

The Osmanli has many points of superiority
over the other populations of the empire ; and

314 ANATOLIC A.

I venture to say that if he he compared with
Europeans, it will not be altogether to the ad-
vantage of the latter. I am convinced, for
instance, that, as a rule, there is less crime in
a Turkish village than in most European vil-
lages of the same size. Crimes of violence are
extremely rare — of course, I reckon brigandage
as a thing apart ; there is no drunkenness, al-
most no prostitution, very little smuggling, no
robbery with violence ; the people in general
are honest and tranquil ; they trust one another
implicitly in business transactions. During our
whole journey I never heard a brawl or a
quarrel amongst the people ! The Arabs are
continually bickering and quarrelling ; but it is
not so with the Osmanli.

The old-fashioned Turk of the interior of Ana-
tolia is in short an estimable man — uneducated
and prejudiced certainly — yet, on the latter point,
not more so than many an ordinary Englishman ;
and formerly most fanatical, but brave, hospitable,
truthful, and religious.

I do not say that he is industrious ; but let
those who would call him idle first try the
effect of the climate upon themselves. Besides,
what inducement is there for a man to work
whose property is never secure, who is exposed
to extortion if he has the appearance of wealth,
and who is contented with a very moderate
amount of comfort ?

ANATOLIC A. 315

Let but the Turkish peasant have some pros-
pect held out to him, some inducement for exer-
tion, and we may well believe that the motives
which influence other men would not be without
effect on him.

But these remarks only apply to those Os-
manlis who have had little contact with Euro-
peans. When once a thin varnish of European
civilisation has been laid upon the Turk he
becomes a changed man. The estimable quali-
ties he once had are impaired : he gains the
vices far more easily than the virtues of the
European. There is much that is admirable in the
Osmanli pure and uncorrupted — but it is mostly
found only in the lower classes ! And the truth
must be told — there is a very dark side to the
national character — a hideous blot, which it suffi-
cies to indicate, and then pass by in silence.

roc yocp ytpu<P'ih 7ivo/u,sva v^' olvtuv acla'^pov sari xaii Xsysiv.

The condition of the people may be guessed
from our experience in the course of our journey.
That part of Anatolia which we visited is per-
haps one of the most fertile portions of the Otto-
man Empire, and yet the people are miserably
poor. Their land is productive, but they have
no market for its produce ; their taxation is
heavy, yet almost nothing is done by Govern-
ment to benefit them. Not only the ordinary
revenues, but most of the loans raised in
Europe, are squandered in extravagance, or

3i6 ANATOLIC A.

expended in keeping up a great military force,
which is unhappily rendered necessary by the
ambition of an unscrupulous neighbour. The
people have no accumulated capital ; on the
contrary, the villages to a great extent are
heavily indebted. In short, the provinces are
sacrificed to the capital, and while there is an
air of prosperity at Constantinople, the country
is in a state of miserable decay.

In good hands the exports of the country
would be enormously increased, both in amount
and in value. The plains and valleys of the
sea-coast, with a semi-tropical climate, afford
fruits, tobacco, silk, cotton, sugar, rice, wine,
and oil ; the interior produces wheat and all
kinds of grain, wool, timber, cheese, opium,
sheep, and cattle. Nature is bountiful as ever,
but labour and capital both alike fail ; and for
want of these, this rich region is in a manner
lost to the world.

And after all, the improvements which Euro-
pean civilisation could make in the country
would bring but slight advantage to the mass
of the people without a reform of the Govern-
ment. More wealth would be poured into the
country it is true, but it would be enjoyed
either by the governing classes or by the Euro-
peans. The cost of living would become much
higher, all sorts of restrictions would be im-
posed which do not now exist, the taxation

ANATOLIC A. 317

would be proportionally so much the heavier,
and the revenues would be employed in the
same unwise manner as at present ; the national
debt, crushing already, would be raised to an
amount absolutely intolerable. The process is
familiar to all those who have lived in the
Levant.

And with all the heavy expenditure on the
Ottoman army and navy, the capital appears
almost defenceless. The forts and arsenals of
Russia are within a few hours' sail, and more
than these, there will soon be the deadliest
weapon against Turkey — a strong Black Sea
fleet. But the Bosphorus is open ; there seems
to be no defence, except a few miserable forts
near the entrance of the Black Sea which could
not repel an iron-clad.* The seven or eight
iron-clads which compose the Ottoman fleet
never go to sea ; in winter they are laid up in
the Golden Horn, in summer they are anchored
in the Bosphorus, in front of the Sultan's palaces
of Tcheragan and Dolma Baghtche ; but that is
the extent of their cruising ! In all probability,

* But since the above lines were written, unusual energy has been
displayed by the Turkish Government in preparing for war; strong
fortifications are being constructed (1873) both on the Bosphorus and
on the Hellespont. The forts and entrenched camps along the Danube
are being reconstructed and heavily armed, formidable additions are
being made (1874) ^^ the defences of Erzeroum, Trebisond, and other
fortresses ; vast stores of war materiel, Krupp guns, breech -loading
rifles, torpedoes, &c., &c., are being provided. Evidently the Osmanlis
are thoroughly alarmed at the signs of the times.

3i8 ANATOLIC A.

if a sudden emergency arose,- they would prove
but of little service; and if an enemy should
occupy the heights above Scutari, the capital
would be at his mercy. A coup-de-niain seems
perfectly possible, and might be fatal before
Europe could interfere to prevent it.

It is not to the interest of any class in Turkey
now that Russia should take the place of the
Osmanlis : the corruption in Russia is quite as
deep as in Turkey ; personal liberty in Turkey is
as great, perhaps greater than in Russia ; the
Turkish peasant is superior in almost every respect
to the Russian peasant ; there are as many ele-
ments of trouble and disturbance in the social state
of Russia as in Turkey ; the Russians, as a nation,
are intensely fanatical, while the old religious
bigotry of the Muslim is diminishing, and gene-
rally religious toleration prevails throughout the
Ottoman Empire.

And if it is not to the advantage of any class in
Turkey that Russia should possess the immense
resources of that rich country, with its warlike and
hardy inhabitants, it is still less to the interest of
European liberty.

The desire of the Russian Government to be-
come master of Constantinople and the Bosphorus
is natural, for the position of the capital is abso-
lutely unrivalled ; there is no city in the world
which possesses so many natural advantages, and
in the hands of Europeans vast improvements in it

ANATOLIC A. 319

might be expected ; but those improvements must
come by the very force of circumstances ; the old
condition of things is fast passing away.

It is true the Osmanlis gained that country by
the sword, but long use has consecrated their pos-
session, and the Russians have, now at least, all
the advantages they can justly expect. They have
free navigation of the Bosphorus, they have the
same facilities of commerce as any other European
nation — what concession, indeed, is there that one
nation may fairly claim of another, which Turkey
has not now granted to Russia ?

But perhaps the greatest danger of all which
threaten the Osmanlis, worse than foreign arms,
worse than domestic treason, is the danger of a
financial collapse. Unless either the process of
accumulating debt upon debt be interrupted, or the
resources of the country be developed, this will
bring about the ruin of the empire. But to develop
the immense natural resources of Turkey, European
skill and capital are needed. It will never be
brought about by the Osmanlis themselves, and un-
fortunately foreigners have but little encourage-
ment to undertake industrial enterprises in Turkey.
Many mining or agricultural enterprises have been
commenced by Europeans, but almost invariably
the result has been failure and loss of money. All
sorts of facilities and concessions have been granted
at Constantinople, but either from covert oppo-
sition in the province, ignorance of management.

320 ANATOLIC A.

want of labour, or other causes, such schemes have
almost invariably failed.

In Turkey there is no such thing as a census,
so that the number of the population cannot be
known with any approach to accuracy, and it is
said that the Muslim population is diminishing.
Yet from the great number of children we saw
in most of the districts through which we passed,
it may be doubted if this be really so, at least in
that part of Anatolia. Polygamy is the exception
rather than the rule. Its expense prevents it from
being general. On the other hand, divorce is dis-
gracefully easy. But so far as we could learn, the
country people have only one wife, and the ties of
family life appear as strong there as anywhere
else.

The plague, of whose awful ravages old travel-
lers in the East once had so much to tell, has not
appeared for now nearly thirty-five years.

Cholera is but a temporary epidemic, and does
not penetrate far into the interior. If indeed the
Muslim population of Turkey be diminishing, the
causes are continuous, and under a better con-
dition of things may cease to act. The people
" perish for lack of knowledge." Ignorance how
to rear their children, want of medical assistance,
the conscription, heavy taxation, poverty, their
wretched way of life in consequence — such are
the causes which prevent increase of population.

I know not how it may be in Turkey, but in

ANATOLICA. 321

Egypt the loss of infant life is enormous, so much
so that it has attracted the serious attention of the
Khedive. But such unfortunate conditions are not
remedied in a day.

It is, I believe, quite true that in some parts of
the empire the Muslim population is fast diminish-
ing. I do not refer to European Turkey, but to
Asiatic. An English gentleman, long resident in
Cyprus, estimates that the Greeks now in the
island form two-thirds of the entire people. In
Crete it is the same, and indeed in the islands
generally the Christians vastly preponderate ; but
I think that on the mainland matters are different.
The Greeks in Cyprus cling to their land with
great tenacity. Rather than sell his land, the
Greek peasant will undergo the very extremity of
distress, whereas the Osmanli easily parts with
his property, and emigrates to the mainland. In-
stances of these were of common occurrence during
the famines in Cyprus caused by deficient harvests.

Yet whatever may be the real state of the case
the Turkish race in Anatolia has a noble " phy-
sique." I have seen few finer or handsomer men
than the people at Almalu, and indeed in Anatolia
generally. Perhaps the sickly and weakly die out,
and only the strong survive.

One of my friends, long resident in Turkey, once
took the trouble to compare the statistics of births
in a number of villages in his neighbourhood. He
told me that almost invariably the Turkish villagers

^2 2 ANATOLIC A.

had but one wife each, and that the amount of
births amongst them was slightly higher than
amongst the Christians (about i per cent.), and he
remarked especially the higher number of male
births amongst them than in the Christian families ;
nor were their children weakly, but quite up to the
average in any country.

His position gave him peculiar opportunities for
observation, but any general appreciation is impos-
sible, and even if a Government census could be
carried out — a thing extremely difficult — it is very
doubtful whether its reports would be reliable.
But from the disorganisation in the provinces it is
not probable that any attempt to number the people
will be made, nor if it were tried would the people
furnish the requisite information.

CHAPTER XVII.

Old System of Provincial Government — Its Abuses and Advantages —
The Vilayet System — Provincial Medjlis — Representation — Pro-
vincial Government good in Theory — Purchase of Offices — Reason
why Public Works are so Expensive in Turkey — Instance — De-
grees of Offices in Provinces — The Kadis — Their Authority
Declining — Taxation of the Empire — Taxes on Land — The Dime
— Farmers of this Tax — The Vergui — Mortgages on Land in
Turkey — The Kharaj — The Bedeliyeh — Conscription — Exemption
of Christians from Serving in the Army — Professional Money-
lenders— Their Dishonesty — Government Agricultural Banks —
Their Failure — Difficulties of Agriculture in Turkey — Impartiality
of the Government in Matters of Religion — Religious Bigotry
generally Diminishing — Syria and Ibrahim Pasha — Conversion of
Mohammedans not to be Lightly Expected — Difficulties in the
way of it — Different Religious Ideas of Muslim and Christian —
Simplicity of El Islam— Its Inferiority to Christianity — Supersti-
tions Engrafted on Mohammedanism — Muslim has generally come
in contact with a less pure form of Christianity — Morals of
Europeans — Growing Tolerance of Muslemin — Education of their
Children — American Schools in Egypt — Prospects of the Conver-
sion of Mohammedans to Christianity.

The old system of government in the Ottoman
Empire was by means of Pashas appointed to the
different provinces. They paid highly for their
posts, and had uncontrolled power in their
Pashaliks ; tempered, it is true, by fear of the
bowstring. But in many cases they were prac-
tically independent, and if strong, were in general
left unmolested, provided they regularly remitted
the tribute due from the province to the Porte, and

Y 2

324 ANATOLICA.

took care to maintain friends at Court by a judi-
cious application of " bucksheesh."

Naturally, under such a system much individual
oppression occurred. The Pasha had the power of
life and death, and there was small chance of
appeal or redress. And yet it is doubtful if the
provinces were not in a better material position
under the old condition of things, than under the
searching centralisation of more modern days. For
the connection between the Pasha and his province
was more intimate and lasting. It was far more to
the Governor's interest that his people should be
prosperous than it is now ; especially was this the
case under the rule of the Dere Beys, who in many
points resembled the great feudal nobles of Europe
in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries.

A vast change was made in the old system by
Sultan Mahmoud ; but the whole condition of
things was altered by the introduction a few years
ago of the Vilayet system. Its main object was to
obtain a sufficient representation of the people. To
this end the empire was divided into a certain
number of districts called Vilayets. The Governors
(Valis) of these are appointed by the central autho-
rity at Constantinople, and very considerable
powers are granted to them.

In matters of imperial taxation and questions of
life and death they are accountable to the Council
of State ; but in local matters, local expenditure,
public works, &c., they are left independent.

ANATOLIC A. 325

They are assisted by the Council (Medjlis) of the
Vilayet, the members of which are elected by the
Village Councils, the latter consisting of the
" ayans " or notables of the villages and small
towns.

Where the population is partly Muslim, partly
Christian, a separate Medjlis is sometimes ap-
pointed for either body, or a certain number of
Christians sit in the Medjlis.

All expenditure for local purposes, roads,
bridges, irrigation works, &c., is under the con-
trol of the Medjlis of the Vilayet, which signifies to
each village or township what proportion of the
money required has to be raised by it, leaving to
the village authorities the care of apportioning this
amongst the people, the principle of " solidarite "
being applied, so that in case of default by indi-
viduals the entire village is liable.

Every year two members of the great Medjlis
are sent as deputies to Constantinople to make
reports, complaints, suggestions — in short, to
bring the special interests of their Vilayet under
the notice of the Council of State at Constan-
tinople. Their expenses are paid by the
Vilayet. And there usually the matter ends. Their
reports are read — sometimes ; their suggestions
heard — patiently; their complaints eluded— politely;
and when they are tired of waiting on the great
men in Stamboul, and listening to the everlasting
"Bacaloum!" "Inshallah!" they return to their

326 ANATOLICA.

homes, until the season for renewing the farce
comes round again.

Theoretically, then, the provincial government
of the Ottoman Empire is very good ; and it
might become really so, were it not for the
fatalism and apathetic temper of the people,
their passive obedience, and want of education
and ambition.

The Valis, who have succeeded the Pashas
of former days, have no such arbitrary power
as the latter, so that cases of individual extor-
tion are not common. The amount of taxation
which will fall upon each man is tolerably well
known, and it is to the interest of the Vali to
be on good terms with the members of his
Medjlis ; so that the people are not so much afraid
as formerly to show their wealth, although much
of the old feeling on this point still remains.

But as in Turkey the nomination to any office
is costly, the expense has to be recovered, and
the local expenditure offers the most obvious
source for this. Hence, perhaps, the little suc-
cess in executing public works in Turkey. Often
after a large expenditure the result is inconsi-
derable. To take an instance. A carriage road
of about twenty-five miles in length was pro-
jected between the towns of Nicosia and Lar-
naka, in the Island of Cyprus. The Govern-
ment engineer estimated the expense at about
;^ 4,000. The work was commenced ; and

ANATOLIC A. 327

between cash and contributions the amount of
;^ 7,000 was expended upon it (much more, too,
was raised by extortions and vexations), but
only about a quarter of the road was completed.
After a time came a change of Governors, and
the new Vali proceeded to examine the road
accounts. They proved to be an utter and in-
comprehensible jumble ; but the result was not
made known, and the examination was aban-
doned in despair.

But while the authorities w^ere thus occupied
in examining accounts, dismissing employes,
&c., the road (which it need not be said was
very badly made) was washed away by the
winter rains !

Soon after occurred the terrible famine in the
island. Cyprus at that time happened to pos-
sess a good and intelligent Governor (Said
Pasha), who applied to Constantinople for a
grant of money to give work to the destitute
natives. His petition was granted ; and this
time the road to its full extent was remade
at a cost of ;^ 3,000. But still it was unskilfully
made ; in many parts merely the surface was
smoothed. It never could be used by carriages
or diligences, and the muleteers preferred to
drive their mules and camels along the old
tracks ; it was practically useless : and thus
the amount of ;^ 10,000 was expended on what
should have been well done for ;^4,ooo. " Ex

32 8 ANATOLIC A.

uno disce omnes!" A somewhat similar report
appeared the other day in the Levant Herald
about a road which is being made between
Mersina and Adana, in Cilicia. Not many years
ago the Turkish Government, alarmed at the in-
creasing diversion of trade from Trebisond to Poti
and other Russian ports, decided to make a car-
riageable road between Trebisond and Erzeroum,
a distance of about 150 miles (or fifty to sixty
hours). But, alas ! the work was entrusted to
a high official : about a mile of road on the
Trebisond side was constructed at a fabulous cost,
and the Government, frightened at the expense,
abandoned the continuation of this road, which was
really excellent as far as it went — only it went in
the wrong direction. Probity is a very rare virtue
in Turkey !

I have said that in Turkey it costs money to
obtain office. Of course the consideration is
in general indirectly given ; and I have heard
some very laughable anecdotes on this point —
" sed taedet hsec opprobria nostra referre !"

The frequent change of Governors is another
misfortune for the country. It is seldom that a
Vali is left in the same post more than one or
two years ; often his tenure of his post is only
for a few months, or even weeks !

Thus no sooner does a Governor begin to
become acquainted with his province, and en-
deavour to do something for its benefit, than he

ANATOLIC A. 329

is removed to a distant part of the empire ;
and then the heavy expense of removal, &c.,
has to be incurred, and is, of course, defrayed
in the end by the unfortunate provincials.

Above the Vali is the Mutesarrif — the Go-
vernor of a large division of the empire ; below
him the Kaimakam, and yet lower the Mudir.

Owing to the peculiar system of Mohammedan
law, the position of the Kadi is anomalous. He
has a seat at the Medjlis, and in former days
used to be judge* in all civil and criminal
cases.

As may be supposed, it was found that the
position and authority of the Kadi, as it existed
under the old system, was quite incompatible
with the new order of things contemplated by
the reformers of the Ottoman State.

But it was impossible to break summarily
through the old procedure ; and therefore a
gradual encroachment was commenced on the
authority of the Kadis by the establishment of
courts which should relieve them of much of the
judicial business they had hitherto transacted.
First police cases were removed from their con-
trol ; then commercial matters of contract and
sale. Now, scarcely anything is left to them
except the decision in cases of marriage, divorce,

* The Kadi judges from the Sheriyah, i.e., the law of the Koran,
illustrated and expounded by the innumerable works on jurisprudence
which exist in Turkish and Arabic. — See Appendix.

330 ANATOLICA.

and inheritance, and the registration and trans-
fer of real property.

The taxation of the Ottoman Empire is a very
difficult subject. There is no one general and uni-
form principle in force ; but the usage differs ac-
cording to the circumstances of the respective pro-
vinces.

Therefore, with the exception of a few general
taxes, it is almost impossible for a foreigner to
become acquainted with the taxation of the entire
empire ; all that can be known is the usage of par-
ticular provinces.

But great changes are contemplated by the
Porte, so that a few months may witness something
quite different from the system — or non-system —
which at present exists.

Independently of the import and export duties,
which are respectively 8 per cent, and i per cent.,
the chief revenues of the Ottoman Empire arise
from the taxes on land. Such a tax as the income
tax (strictly so called) is unknown, and would pro-
bably be impracticable to levy, Orientals being
utterly opposed to any examination into their pri-
vate affairs. Indeed they consider that to ascer-
tain accurately the amount of their income, or of
any kind of property they may possess, would
inevitably bring them ill-fortune, and they will
never do it even for their own satisfaction.

There are other less important taxes, such as the
sheep and cattle tax for right of pasturage, the

ANATOLIC A. 331

tobacco duty, now extended to the whole empire,
and so heavy that it greatly encourages smuggling,
and, where smuggling is difficult, will end by dis-
couraging or stopping the cultivation of tobacco ;*
the octroi duties, which seldom enter the imperial
treasury. The heavy and impolitic internal transit
due, amounting to 8 per cent, on everything except
grain, was abolished in October, 1873.

The great tax which bears on land is the " Ushr"
or "Ushoori" — the tithe of the crops — which is
usually levied in kind.

This is almost always let out to farmers of the
revenue, who collect it themselves or sublet it :
thus the loss of possible revenue to the Government
is very great. Sometimes the villagers farm this
tax themselves, and at times in the poorer pro-
vinces the Government is unable to find bidders,
and is obliged itself to levy the tax. But this pre-
sents many difficulties, and although the intention
at present is to make this a general rule, it is
doubtful whether the Government will be able to
carry it out.

Of all their taxes the " Ushr" is the least objec-
tionable to the Osmanlis. It is a common expres-
sion among them, " If only Allah gives us a good
harvest, we are quite willing to pay the Padshah
his tenth." But sometimes the " Ushr" amounts

* It has already had this effect in the district round Latakia in
North Syria, where some of the finest tobacco used to be grown.

332 ANATOLIC A.

to more than a tenth — 12^ per cent, and even 15
per cent, have occasionally been exacted.

Still, as a rule, the peasant bears this tax well,
and does not murmur at it as at the irregular taxes
— road levies, &c., &c.

There is, however, sometimes much hardship in-
flicted in the collection : an instalment is de-
manded before the crops are ripe, &c. This is, in
general, only for the sake of extorting " buck-
sheesh" from the cultivator, in order to obtain a
respite.

Then, again, the crop may not be removed from
the field or from the threshing floor until the farmer
of the revenue has inspected it, and either taken
his portion, or agreed as to its amount, and the
delay often causes great loss and inconvenience to
the cultivator.

It need not be said that unbounded rascality is
reciprocally practised. The tax farmer is obliged
to place watchmen round the peasant's crops when
the harvest approaches in order to prevent him
from removing any of the crop before the tithe has
been either paid or agreed upon, but often the
peasant is able to bribe them, and so to subtract a
part of his crop.

On the other hand, the tax farmer uses his own
weights and measures, and in every way tries to
defraud his man ; endless is the chicanery and
sharp practice mutually brought into play, and in
this the peasant is generally quite a match for

ANATOLICA. 333

the revenue farmer or Government ofificial, and
fully able to hold his own.

The " Vergui," or tax upon property, really has
some points of resemblance to an income tax, and
yet more to the English land tax as originally im-
posed in 1692-7. It is an impost levied on the esti-
mated property of the individual, whether moveable
or fixed. Perhaps it would be most accurately de-
fined as a percentage on the presumed annual
value of his property in general.

The Vali (Governor), assisted by the Medjlis
(Council) of the Vilayet, fixes the amount due by
each village ; the village authorities apportion it
amongst individuals. The Government register
furnishes the base on which is calculated what
amount each Vilayet has to pay on account of this
tax.

In some provinces the Vergui on land has be-
come a regular land tax of 3 per cent, on the esti-
mated annual value of the land. The estimate is
made by Government assessors, but in conjunction
with the owners, and is in general considerably
below the real value.

Of course there is some scope for unfairness in
this, and it is found in practice that the richer
landowners escape with lighter estimates than
their land ought to bear, while often the reverse is
the case with the poorer proprietors ; but, on the
whole, the tax is levied with much justice.

One very essential point contemplated by the

334 ANATOLICA.

Government was, that the Government valuation
should be accepted by the landowner, and that he
should give his written assent to it.

In cases of disputed valuation the Medjlis of the
Vilayet acts as umpire. As an instance of the
desire on the part of the Government to act justly,
I may mention that at the valuation of the lands in
Cyprus no such agreement had been arrived at
between the assessors and proprietors, and a
" Mazbata " (petition) was sent to Constantinople
complaining of this ; much time and money had
been expended, yet the Government ordered the
whole work to be recommenced. Thus the valua-
tion was made justly, and according to the law,
and it had always been so intended. When once
the amount payable is inserted on the Government
register, the proprietor knows what he will have to
pay, and it is not easy now, as it was in the old
days, to defraud him or force him to contribute
more than the just amount. To ensure pay-
ment of this tax no sale of land can take
place without an inscription on the back of the
title deed that all Government dues have been
liquidated.

I may mention en passant that title deeds have
by no means the high value under Ottoman law
which they possess in the jurisprudence of the
Western nations. The real title is inscription on
the register of the Mehkameh, or Tribunal of the
Kadi. So that a man may have the title deeds of

ANATOLICA. 335

a property quite in order, but unless its registry
at the Mehkameh be unimpeachable he cannot
effect a sale ; nor will the Government look upon
him as the rightful owner, being guided entirely
by their own registers, which are extremely exact
and particular. This renders it hazardous to lend
money on mortgage. In order to effect a secure
mortgage a very roundabout process is necessary.
A has borrowed money from B, and for security
offers his land — to which of course he must first
prove his title. Both parties go before the Kadi,
and A declares that he owes the sum and will pay
it at a given date, and that he gives such lands as
guarantee for the debt. The particulars of the
mortgage are then inscribed on the register, and a
third party agreed upon by A and B is appointed
as " vekyl " (agent) to sell the mortgaged land if
necessary and pay the debt. The verbal declara-
tion which the mortgagor makes before the Kadi
(and which is also indispensable for all transfer
of real property) is called "Takryr" — meaning "a
formal declaration," an "affidavit." The Kadi
thereupon gives the creditor a document called
" Vekyliyat devriyah," and if the money is not paid
the creditor produces this document and requests
that a sale be made. The Kadi calls upon the
" vekyl " to do this, and can imprison him upon
refusal. After a notice of sixty days the land is
sold to the highest bidder, and the creditor paid.
But as land is an unsaleable commodity in

336 ANATOLICA.

Anatolia, it very often happens that no bidder can
be found ; and thus the debtor often " buys in " his
own land at a price lower than the debt for which
it is on sale.

Before the Crimean War all the Rayahs (Chris-
tian subjects) in the empire paid the " kharaj " or
poll tax. Originally this was the institution of
Mohammed, that all who would not become
Muslim might still continue to profess their own
religion on payment of tribute. For wherever the
Muslim became master the conquered race had to
choose between El Islam — tribute — or the sword.
This practice was founded on the Sunneh or
" traditional law " of Mohammed. In the Koran
itself, though passages may be found which make
for the practice, yet there are others which seem to
approve of toleration.

Later the kharaj became rather a substitute for
military service, as the Osmanlis have always for
obvious reasons jealously avoided training their
Christian fellow subjects to arms, although their
liability to serve in the army is expressly stated in
Art. xxiv. of the " Khatti Humayoon."

After the Crimean War the Porte, yielding to
the representations of the Western Powers, gave
up in name the obnoxious tax, but in its stead
established the " Bedeliyeh " or " substitution
tax," which all native Christians now pay.

And they pay it very willingly, for a small sum
of money thus secures them from military service,

ANATOLICA. 337

which they abhor, and would avoid by every pos-
sible expedient.

The conscription is a heavy burden, and presses
most unfairly on the Muslim population of the
empire. The very flower of the population is
withdrawn from a country already underpeopled,
and of the recruits few in comparison return again
to their homes. For some time past the Divan
(Council of State) has deliberated upon the expe-
diency of extending the conscription to the Chris-
tian population also. Dread of the possible
consequences has hitherto prevented it ; but it
is a just measure, and must one day be carried
out. When once the army is thrown open to
Christians, their " status " cannot fail to be
raised. They dread and hate military service
now ; but when it is inevitable the feeling will
disappear.

The conscription is thus managed : — At the
appointed time a Government conscription officer
comes, accompanied by a doctor, to the prin-
cipal town of the Vilayet. Before his arrival
it has been arranged how many conscripts
are to be taken from that district. The names
of all eligible to be drawn [i.e.^ men be-
tween eighteen and twenty-five years of age)
are taken from the books of the Mudiriyeh,
and orders are issued to the village authorities
to send them in. The doctor examines them,
rejects the weakly, then a ticket is put into

338 ANATOLIC A.

the vessel for each of the remainder, and they
go up in turn and draw their lot. Of course,
the excitement is immense. A conscript can
buy himself off afterwards, but the price is
high ; it was formerly £80, and is much higher
now. The only support of a family is excused,
and it is advisable to make the doctor your
friend ; but in general the drawing is conducted
in a very fair and impartial manner.

I have spoken of the exactions of the pro-
fessional money-lender. The Armenians are the
great sinners on this point, and the misery caused
by this cancer of debt amongst the poor peasants
is extreme. The legal rate of interest is 12
per cent. ; but under the skilful manipulation of
the usurer it rises to an amount very far beyond
this. The strangest tales are told of their
roguery. Often the peasant is induced to affix
his seal to papers of which he comprehends
nothing. I heard of a debt of 1.400 piastres,
which was originally only 80 piastres, and was
not on account of money borrowed, but arose
from the debtor having burnt an olive tree
belonging to the creditor !

The Government perceives the mischief of all
this, and has made several abortive attempts to
remedy it. . Amongst other ideas was the plan
of forming agricultural banks, which should lend
money at a low rate of interest to the land-
owners, for strictly agricultural purposes.

ANATOLICA. 339

This was a part of the Vilayet system already
spoken of.

The capital of these banks was thus raised : —
One kylah* of wheat and two kylahs of barley
per annum were charged on each pair of bul-
locks used for agriculture, so as to form in
process of time a fund from which money
should be advanced to the agriculturists at the
rate of 8 per cent., on the security of their
land. This was far below even the legal
and recognised rate of interest ; and as a
matter of course every one, whether he had
need or not of borrowing money for his land,
yet rushed in to obtain as large a share as
possible of the capital thus kindly provided for
him by the Government bank, for he could lend
it out again at a very much higher rate of interest.
Thus the object in view, that of affording help
to a class who could not help themselves and
were every year going from bad to worse, was
not attained. The capital of the banks was
formed of money taken from men who most
needed it, for in general the cultivators were
obliged to borrow from others to pay their
share ; in effect, it was taking the money of the
poor to lend to the poor^ and at last the idea was
abandoned ; but of course the money that had
been amassed disappeared in most cases !

The kylah is equivalent to the English bushel.

340 ANATOLICA.

It may then be easily imagined that agriculture
in Turkey is far from being the sure and mode-
rately lucrative pursuit it is in other countries.
Although the land is in general fertile, the climate
and the seasons render the harvest most precarious.
A short delay of rain at the critical period entirely
ruins the crop ; and this is the chief danger. In
some parts of the empire the ravages of locusts do
incalculable damage. The peasants have very
small holdings — they are unskilled, have no accu-
mulated capital. A large proportion of the arable
land is obliged to be left in fallow ; there are no
good means of communication, so that the cost of
transport is enormous ; labour is scarce and bad ;
the burden of taxation presses unfairly on the
poorer class of peasants ; the conscription takes
away the very life blood of the people ; and usury
keeps them next door to starvation ! Little wonder
if the condition of the empire be so bad ! The
terrible famine which is now (1874) devastating the
interior of Anatolia supplies a melancholy com-
mentary on all this !

Upon the question of religion I must speak with
reserve. It is certain that, as a rule, religious
toleration now prevails throughout the empire ;
and of the equity with which the Government
bears itself between the various Christian
sects, its decisions in the case of the Bulgarian
Church and of the Catholic Armenian Church are
proofs.

ANATOLIC A. 341

Gradually the animosity against the Christian
religion as such and those who profess it is dis-
appearing. If political questions could be elimi-
nated it would disappear still more rapidly.
Certainly there are still fanatics to be found, in
high station rather than in low, to whom the idea
of a " jihad " (" a holy war against the Christians ")
is acceptable, and in Syria especially, so great is
the hatred between Christian and Muslim, Maronite
and Druse, that without a strong repressing power
civil war might break out at any moment ; but this
is entirely caused by the political weakness of the
Government. Never was the public tranquillity so
perfect as during the time of Ibrahim Pasha's
occupation of Damascus and all Syria. And
why ? Because justice, stern and equal, was
meted out to all, and the Egyptian Conqueror
was able to make his will obeyed by Muslim and
Christian alike.

It is not to be expected that any great number of
Mohammedans will be converted to Christianity —
indeed this result is quite hopeless in the case of a
Muslim of mature years. The social sacrifices a
convert would have to make are enormous. The
old law of the empire under which conversion to
Christianity, or a relapse to it after professing
Islam, was punished with death, is no longer in
force ; but the public mind has not yet been
educated to full toleration.

Instances of conversion doubtless have occurred,

342 ANATOLICA.

but they are few. Personally I know of none; on
the contrary, I have known instances of men who
have lived many years in England, who know our
language and customs perfectly, who have married
Englishwomen — nay, have even, in some instances,
attended Christian worship ; but who have re-
mained, if I may not say Mohammedans, yet Unit-
arians.

We must not forget that the Muslim already
acknowledges much of what we believe. But the
grand distinctive doctrine of Christianity — the
Incarnation of the Deity — is an " offence " to
him.

The Muslim idea of the Deity is so essentially
different from our idea that he must almost change
his nature before he can become Christian. To
him God is a Being to be feared — to be propitiated
by the most abject submission. He is merciful
and terrible — like one of their own Sultans, though
of course in a degree infinitely higher. But the
idea of the Almighty as a Father is to him incom-
prehensible ; and naturally so, because the grand
bond and link between God and man is to him
wanting.

Then, too, the Mohammedan religion asks so
little of its professor ; it is easier, less profound ;
the claim upon the faith of its followers is less ; it
is pre-eminently a religion easy for heathen to em-
brace. The only observances prescribed by its
founder are the stated prayers and ablutions and

ANATOLICA. 343

the Ramadan fast, for the rite of circumcision is
not peculiar to Mohammedanism, and has been
practised from the most remote antiquity. There
are no sacrifices, unless we consider as a sacrifice
the ceremonial slaying of a lamb at the Courban
Bairam, the second of the Muslim festivals. Every
place is pure and fit for the worship of the one
God, although, as is natural, the Prophet's birth-
place and his tomb have become objects of pil-
grimage. No order of priesthood is established ;
every man is his own priest, although the Ulema
have usurped an authority which is quite alien to
the original spirit of El Islam. Lastly the
dogmas of the Mohammedan faith are plain
and simple, yet with all their simplicity there is
something very sublime in them, and no religion
is so readily embraced by a barbarous, idolatrous
people.

But when we compare the morality of Moham-
medanism with that of our own religion, then the
immeasurable inferiority of the former is apparent ;
and, moreover, it has no explanation of those difii-
culties which the religion of the Saviour alone can
solve — nay, rather its founder and his followers
have no conception that those difiiculties even
exist.

As to many of the superstitions which over-
lie Mohammedanism, they are quite extraneous.
Whatever may be the opinions of the lower classes
as to their Prophet and his claims, the better

344 ANATOLICA.

educated are more enlightened : they are simply
Unitarians. The vulgar may still adjure the
Prophet, &c., but not the educated.

And many of the abuses of Mohammedanism
arise from compliance with the prejudices and
errors of the people to whom the religion has been
introduced.

Neither should it be forgotten that the Muslim
has come in contact, for the most part, with a less
pure form of Christianity.

To take a simple and obvious instance. What
effect can we suppose will be produced on the
Muslim when he enters a church full of pictures
and images which he can only look upon as
idols ?

In most of the Christian churches which are open
to their observation they see only what they abo-
minate.

Then, too, the morals of the Europeans are often
hateful to them ; above all they detest the cynicism
of the European character, that feeling of contempt
for them which is so prevalent, which plainly de-
clares, " I shall do what I choose, and I care not
about you. What you may say or think is all one
to me."

Time and changed conditions may do something
to bring the Osmanlis as a nation to the higher
religious development — Christianity; but at pre-
sent appearances are against such a result.

If it was possible to educate the children apart

ANATOLICA. 345

from home influence, something might be done,
but this is not possible ; and it is useless to close
our eyes to the fact that from the Muslim of mature
years nothing can be expected. It is a great
result obtained if you can make him even tolerant
of you, as he is now becoming. Neither must we
examine too closely into the motives for his tolera-
tion, for we should most likely find that only his
own weakness was the cause of it. In proportion
as he finds himself the weaker he becomes tolerant
and complaisant towards the unbeliever, but he
hates and dreads him none the less in his heart of
hearts !

The American missions in Egypt appear to take
the most effectual course. They do not expect
sudden or striking results ; they do not look for
converts ; they do not shock the prejudices of those
whom they are trying to conciliate. They open
their schools to all alike ; Jew, Christian, Muslim
meet on the same footing there. The Scriptures
are studied, but not controversially, and the few
Muslim, children who attend are insensibly accus-
tomed to hear of another religion, insensibly im-
bibe an acquaintance with another faith, grander,
nobler, purer than their own, learn to regard it
from a different point of view, and thus, even
though no other result be attained, they cannot
have the same envenomed prejudices as their fore-
fathers.

God in His own good time will one day, we are

346 ANATOLICA.

convinced, bring back these peoples — many of whom
are descended from Christian ancestors — into the
fold of Christ Jesus, the Great Redeemer.

As yet we see not how it will be brought about ;
but God's ways are not as ours. Time with us is
everything, but with God a thousand years are as
one day — one day as a thousand years.

APPENDIX.

In the year B.C. 88 Mithridates, King of Pontus, began
his famous war against the Romans. He occupied, almost
without resistance, all the dominions of Nicomedes, King of
Bithynia, as also Phrygia, Mysia, Lycia, Pamphylia — in
short, all Asia Minor up to the limits of Ionia.

Q. Oppius, one of the Roman generals, had retreated to
Laodicea, on the Lycus. The citizens would have resisted the
enemy, but the Roman general had only a few mercenaries
and a small force of cavalry, so that they were obliged to give
him up to Mithridates, under a promise that they should be
themselves spared, but they permitted his mercenaries to
escape. Oppius was sent to Mithridates, and, in mockery of
his helpless state, his lictors were sent in front of him.
Mithridates did him no harm, but carried him about to show
the populace an unusual spectacle — a Roman general as
prisoner of war.

But soon afterwards he captured Manius Aquilius, whose
extortion and corruption had been the principal causes of the
war, and him he carried about mounted upon an ass, and
forced him to tell the spectators that he was Manius. At last
he put him to death at Pergamus by pouring molten gold
down his throat, in ironical allusion to his avarice. Soon
after this, Ephesus, Magnesia on the Marauder, and Mitylene
revolted from the Romans, and the Ephesians threw down all
the Roman statues in their city. Mithridates, on his return
from Ionia, captured Stratonicsea, and heavily fined the city ;
and here he married a beautiful Greek girl, named Monima,
a native of that city. Finally, he gave orders that all Roman

348 APPENDIX.

and Italian foreigners, with their wives, children, and all
their free-born Italian servants, should be put to death and
be left unburied. He threatened to fine those who should
conceal the living or bury the dead, and he promised rewards
to all who should slay them or denounce them — to a slave his
liberty, to a debtor half the amount of the debt he owed.
These were his secret instructions. And on the appointed
day the slaughter began. The Ephesians tore the suppliants
from the very Temple of Diana, from the very statues of the
goddess, and killed them. The people of Pergamus slew with
arrows the Romans as they clung to the images in the Temple
of Esculapius. At Adramyttium the Romans tried to escape
by swimming to the ships off the port, but the people of the
city pursued and killed them, and afterwards drowned their
children. The Caunians, who after the conquest of Antiochus
had been assigned to Rhodes, but only a short time before
this had been restored to their independence by the authority
of the Roman Senate, took out the suppliants from the Temple
of Vesta, slew first the children in the sight of their parents,
then the wives and mothers, last of all the men.

The Trallians, not willing themselves to stain their hands with
the blood of foreign guests, hired a Paphlagonian named Theo-
philus for the purpose. This monster performed his horrid
task with such ferocity that he even cut off the hands of the
poor suppliants as they clung to the statues in the Temple of
Concord. All of Roman or Italian blood, men, women, chil-
dren, even freedmen and slaves, were thus destroyed through-
out Asia. This was done not less from fear of Mithridates
than from hatred of the Romans. But they suffered a double
punishment, for first they were treated with perfidy and oppres-
sion by Mithridates, and afterwards were punished by Sylla,

the Roman Dictator.

(Appian Bell. Mithrid., cap. xx., xxi.)

Of the history of Aphrodisias only a very few incidents are
known. Strabo reckons it amongst the towns of Phrygia.
Pliny more correctly assigns it to Caria, and says it was a free
city under the Roman government.

APPENDIX.

349

It seems to have received this privilege from the Dictator
JuHus Caesar. The Triumvirs, and afterwards Augustus, con-
firmed the right, and an inscription was discovered there bv
Sherard, which was a copy of a decree made by the Roman
Senate, ratifying all that had been before decreed, giving free-
dom to the Demos of Aphrodisias and of Plarasa, granting the
same rights to the "Temenos" (sacred precinct) of the
Temple of Aphrodite in those cities as were possessed by the
Temple of the Ephesian Artemis, and making the " Temenos"
an asylum.

The privilege of asylum in their temples was at length much
abused by the Greek cities of Asia. The worst of criminals,
debtors, and runaway slaves found shelter in them, and so
scandalous was the state of things that the Emperor Tiberius
ordered a public inquiry to be made before the Senate, in con-
sequence of which many cities lost this privilege, and it was
abridged in the case of others.

March of the Roman Consul Cn. Manlius, in the year
189 B.C., in the campaign against the Gauls of Asia Minor.

(From Livy, xxxviii., 12-15.)
At the commencement of the spring the Consul came to
Ephesus, and after a few days advanced with the army to
Magnesia ad Maeandrum. Here Attalus (brother of Eumenes,
King of Pergamus, the great ally of the Romans) joined him
with his troops. The united armies marched to the Maeander,
but not being able to ford the river, they encamped till boats
could be collected to carry the army across the stream. From
the Maeander they came to Hiera Come, and in another day's
march to the river Harpasus {i.e., its junction with the
Maeander). Their next station was Antiocheia, on the Maean-
der. From this place the army advanced to Gordion-teichos,
and thence in three marches to Taboe (Dawas). "The
city is situated on the borders of Pisidia, on the side towards
the Pamphylian Sea." (But Taboe is far away from the Pam-
phylian Sea, on the west limit of Pisidia.) As the strength of
that country was unimpaired, its inhabitants were very war-
like, and their cavalry attacked the Romans, and at the first

350 APPENDIX.

onset caused them considerable confusion, but being inferior
both in number and valour, they were driven into their city
and forced to surrender. A contribution of twenty- five talents
of silver (about ;^6,ioo) and 10,000 medimni of wheat (15,000
bushels) was exacted from them.

In three days from Tabce they came to the river Chaus (a
stream which flows from Mount Cadmus southwards into the
Calbis) ; leaving this, they captured at the first attack the
town of Eriza. Thence they came to Thabusion, a fort upon
the river Indus. They were now near Cibyra, and had received
no embassy from its " King Moagetes, who was a man utterly
faithless and subtle." The Consul sent forward C. Helvius
with a division of 4,000 men, to see what his intentions were.
When the Romans entered his territory an embassy from the
King met them, and declared that he would obey the orders of
the Consul ; they begged him to abstain from ravaging their
lands, and brought fifteen talents ** for a golden crown."
Helvius promised to spare their lands, and ordered the envoys
to go to the Consul. When they made him the same proposals,
he replied that the Romans " had no proof of the King^s good
disposition towards them, and general consent declared him
to be a man of such a character that they had rather to think
of punishing him than of making an alliance with him." The
envoys, troubled at this harsh reception, could only beg him to
receive their offering, and permit their King to have a confer-
ence with him in order to excuse himself. The Consul allowed
the King to come next day to the camp. He came in a dress
and with a retinue such as was scarcely suited to the station
of a person of moderate wealth. His address was submissive
and humble, disparaging his resources, and complaining of
the poverty of his dominions. Besides Cibyra, he was master
of Syleum and Alimne, and he said that even supposing he
despoiled himself and his subjects, he scarcely could under-
take to make up a contribution of twenty-five talents.

At this the Consul was indignant, and threatened to ravage
his lands and besiege his city unless he paid 500 talents in
three days. Moagetes, although terrified, persisted in his
pretences of poverty, and by making gradually paltry additions
to the sum he had at first offered, at one time with excuses, at
another with entreaties and feigned tears, he reached the sum

APPENDIX. 351

of 100 talents 0^24,375). The whole was paid within six
days.

From Cibyra the army marched through the lands of the
people of Sinda, and encamped on the eastern bank of the
river Caulares (the brook near Baindir). On the next day
they marched past the Lake Caralis (Souood Gol), and halted
at Mandropolis. As the troops advanced towards Lagon
(probably Yalinli), the nearest city, its people were terrified and
fled, and the town, which was thus deserted, and was an opu-
lent place, was plundered. From Lagon they came to the
sources of the river Lysis, and the next day to the river
Cobulatus. (These are the head-waters of the Duden Soo.)

At that time the people of Termessus were besieging the
citadel of Isionda. They had captured the city itself, and the
besieged in despair sent envoys to implore the help of the
Roman Consul ; they told him that they were blockaded in the
citadel with their wives and children, and expected death
every day either by the sword or starvation. The Consul
gladly embraced this opportunity of turning aside into Pam-
phylia. He relieved the Isiondians, and forced the Termes-
sians to pay fifty talents (^^12,187) He treated in like manner
the Aspendians, and the other people of Pamphylia. Return-
ing from Pamphylia, he encamped on the first day at the
river Taurus ; next day at Xyline Come. Thence marching
without interruption, he came to the town of Cormasa. Darsa
was the nearest town to this, and its inhabitants deserted it
in terror ; he found it full of all kinds of store. As the army
was marching past the marshes (Lake Kestel ?) envoys came
from Lysinoe to surrender their city. Then the army advanced
into the territory of Sagalassus, a fertile district, and rich in
every kind of grain. Its inhabitants are Pisidians, by far the
most warlike people in that region ; this and the fertility of
their soil, their number, and the position of their city, which
is most strongly fortified, encouraged them. As no embassy
had come to meet him on the border, the Consul sent troops
to ravage their lands. At length when they saw their property
being plundered, their obstinacy gave way ; they sent envoys,
and obtained peace on condition of paying fifty talents in
money, 20,000 medimni of wheat, and tne same quantity
of barley. Then the army advanced to the sources of the

352 APPENDIX.

Rhotrinus, and encamped at Acaridos Come. Seleucus came
there the next day from Apamea, and then the Consul sent
away to Apamea the sick, and such baggage as was not
needed, and taking some guides from Seleucus, marched on
the same day to the Campus Metropolitanus, and next day to
Diniae in Phrygia. From that place he came to Synnada. The
inhabitants of the towns along his line of march had deserted
their houses in terror, and the army was so encumbered
with the plunder of these places that they made in a whole
day a march of scarcely five miles to Beudos Vetus. Another
day's march brought them to Anabura, the next to the sources
of the Alandrus, the third to Abbassus. Here the army en-
camped several days, because they had reached the frontiers
of the Tolistoboii (one of the Gaulish tribes), upon whom they
were about to make war.

The coast of Lycia ** is difficult and mountainous, but with
very good harbours, and inhabited by men of prudence and
moderation. For the nature of the country is like that of the
Pamphylians and Cilicians of the mountain (Aspera Cilicia).
But those nations used to employ their places as bases of
operation for pirates, being either pirates themselves or pro-
viding the pirates with harbours and markets for their plunder.
For instance, in Side, a city of Pamphylia, dockyards were
constructed for the Cilicians, and there they used publicly to
sell their captives, although they admitted them to be free-
born.

" But the Lycians continued to live in such a moderate
and constitutional manner that, although those nations had
become masters of the sea, even as far as Italy, through
their successes, they (the Lycians) were never excited by
any dishonourable gain, but always continued under their
ancestral government of the Lycian Confederacy.

" There are twenty-three cities which take part in voting.
They choose a city, whichever they approve, and to it envoys
from each city come to the General Council. The largest cities
possess three votes each ; those of the second rank, two ;
the rest a single vote each ; and they contribute the taxes and
other public charges in proportion. Artemidorus said that the

APPENDIX. 353

six largest wereXanthus, Patara, Pinara, Olympus, Myra, and
Tlos, which lies towards Cibyra. In the General Council a
Lysiarch is first chosen, then the other officers of the Con-
federacy and courts of justice are appointed by common
consent. Formerly they used to consult about war and peace
and alliance. This is not now allowed, but of necessity it
must depend upon the Romans, unless these grant them per-
mission, or it be to their own interest. And in like manner
judges and magistrates are chosen from each city in propor-
tion to the votes. Observing this good constitution, they con-
tinued to be free under the Romans, maintaining their ances-
tral laws.

** But as for the pirates, they witnessed their utter destruc-
tion, first by Servilius Isauricus, when he reduced Isaura, and
afterwards by Pompey the Great, who burnt more than thirteen
hundred vessels, and cut up their settlements, and he estab-
lished some of the men who survived the battles, at Soli,
which he named Pompeiopolis, and others at Dyme, which at
that time was short of inhabitants, and which a Roman colony
now inhabits."

(Strabo XIV., cap. iii.)

" The first fortress of the Cilicians is Korakesion, situated
on a precipitous rock. Diodotus, surnamed Tryphon, used this
place as his base of operations when he caused Syria to revolt
against the kings {i.e., the Seleucidae), and carried on war
against them with varying success. Him, indeed, Antiochus,
the son of Demetrius, blockaded in a certain fort, and forced
to commit suicide. But the commencement of piracy among
the Cilicians was due to this Tryphon, and to the worthless-
ness of the kings who in succession ruled over Syria and
Cilicia. For others joined with him in his revolutionary
attempts, and brothers also {i.e., in the royal family), quarrel-
ling with each other, exposed the country to assailants. But,
above all things, the export of slaves, which was extremely
profitable, invited men to these evil doings, for they were both
easily captured, and there was a mart at no great distance,
extremely great and rich, viz., Delos (the island), which could

A A

354 APPENDIX.

receive and dispose of a vast number of slaves in a day, so
that on this account the proverb arose — ' O merchant, sail to
land, out cargo, and all has been sold ! ' But the cause was
this : the Romans, after the destruction of Carthage and
Corinth, having become wealthy, used to employ many house-
hold slaves. But the pirates, seeing this facility on their
part, broke out all at once into piracy and slave dealing. And
the Kings of Cyprus and of Egypt, who were enemies of the
Syrians, contributed to this result. Nor were the Rhodians
friendly to them, so that they gave them no aid. And at the
same time, the pirates, professing to be slave dealers, com-
mitted incessant villainy. Neither did the Romans as yet
give so much attention to matters beyond the Taurus ; they
sent, however, both Scipio ^milianus to make an inspec-
tion of the nations and cities, and again certain others ; and
they were aware that this happened by the fault of the
rulers, but yet they were reluctant to do away with the lineal
succession from Seleucus Nicator, as they had themselves
ratified it. But this occurrence rendered the Parthians, who
held the regions beyond the Euphrates, masters of the country,
and at last the Armenians, who had annexed the country
beyond the Taurus as far as Phoenicia, and these as far as* they
were able destroyed the kings and all their race, but handed
over the sea to the Cilicians. Then the Romans v.ere forced
to crush, by war and force of arms, these men after they
had become powerful, whose rise and increase they had not
prevented. It is hard to charge them (the Romans) with
negligence, but being occupied with other things nearer and
more at hand, they were unable to give attention to matters
more remote."

(Strabo XIV., cap. v.)

These few words of Strabo give an idea of the fearful state
of disorder mto which piracy had reduced the Mediterranean.
Even the Romans at last began to suffer ; all the coasts of the
empire were open to the ravages of these men. Many Roman
citizens and officials were taken prisoners, and were made to
pay heavy ransom, or imprisoned and put to death. Ostia, at
the mouth of the Tiber, was plundered, and the import of
provisions into Italy (already necessary) was checked.

APPENDIX. 355

Amongst other men of note whom the pirates captured was
C. JuUus Caesar (afterwards the Dictator). He was taken
near Rhodes, and forced to pay a ransom of fifty talents (more
than ;^i 2,000). He had afterwards the satisfaction of cap-
turing the pirates in their turn, and crucifying them.

Pubhus Clodius, the great enemy of Cicero, was captured,
and appHcation was made to Ptolemy (brother of the King of
Egypt, and King of Cyprus) to pay his ransom. But Ptolemy,
who was a very parsimonious man, could not make up his
mind to part with his money. He parleyed and haggled about
the terms, and finally sent such a miserable sum that the
pirates would not receive it, and dismissed Clodius without
ransom. Clodius afterwards, to revenge himself on the King
of Cyprus, procured an order from the Senate to Cato, to
deprive Ptolemy of his kingdom, and even of his treasures,
which were immense, being the accumulation of twenty-four
years' rigid economy. This arbitrary act was carried out
without even the formality of a declaration of war, and the
unfortunate king, in despair, poisoned himself.

The power of the pirates was checked by Servilius, and
afterwards by Cicero and the elder Antonius, father of the
Triumvir, but so intolerable did their ravages at length be-
come that the Romans were obliged to put forth all their
power, and Pompeius the Great received the supreme com-
mand for their destruction. He finished the war in about
five months. One hundred and twenty piratical harbours or
strongholds were destroyed, seventy-two war galleys were sunk,
302 taken, 10,000 pirates were slain in action, 20,000 taken
prisoners. Yet although piracy on the coast was thus put
down, the mountaineers of Isauria and Pisidia could never be
thoroughly tamed, and even to the latest days of the empire
were formidable pirates and bandits.

The Emperor Probus removed many of the inhabitants and
settled others in their place, but the new colonists soon became
as bad as the former possessors of the country.

The Emperor Heraclius (contemporary of Mahomet) is said
to have lost 200,000 men in his various campaigns against the
Isaurians. The estimate is probably exaggerated.

A A 2

356 APPENDIX.

The Ottoman Law is derived partly from sources common to
all the Muslim peoples, ist. The text of the Koran. 2nd.
The " Sunneh," or Traditions handed down by the Com-
panions of the Prophet, and by the first four Khaleefehs. 3rd.
The extremely numerous and voluminous treatises on juris-
prudence, and notably that by Abou Hanifah (a.d. 702-72).
4th. The " Fetvas," i.e., judicial opinions of the " Sheikhs ul
Islam," or chiefs of the " Ulema," on supposed cases laid
before them.

It is evident that the first two sources could not possibly
suffice for deciding the intricate questions of law which were
certain to arise as wealth and civilisation advanced amongst
the Arabs, and accordingly Muslim jurists borrowed largely
from the Old Roman Law, existing in those countries which
the Khaleefehs soon acquired by force of arms from the Byzan-
tine Empire.

From these various sources the system of Muslim law was
gradually formed. But it was never codified, and continued
to be the exclusive property of the " Ulema," or " Doctors of
Law and Theology." From this body are drawn the Kadis
or magistrates, whose office it is to administer the law.

But the great foundations of present Ottoman Law are the
"Khatti Sherif" ("The Illustrious Autograph") of Gulkhaneh,
proclaimed by Sultan Mahmoud on November 3rd, 1839 (and
which was followed by the publication of the laws called the
* * Tanzimat " or " Regulations ") ; and the ' ' Khatti Humayoun "
("The August Autograph"), proclaimed by Sultan Abd-el-
Medjid on February i8th, 1856, which solemnly ratified and
enlarged the provisions of the former imperial edict.

The " Khatti Sherif" maybe called the Magna Charta of
the Ottoman Empire, for it was this which first brought the
Osmanlis into some correspondence with European civilisa-
tion, which abolished the frightful abuses of the old system of
government, and, at least theoretically, placed Christian and
Muslim on an equal footing before the law.

The "Tanzimat" were followed by a Penal Code (1840), a
Code relating to the administration of the Empire (1846), a
Commercial Code (1850), a Code of Commercial Procedure

APPENDIX. 3.57

(i860), and, finally, in 1865, a Code of Maritime Commerce.
All these are founded upon the Code Napoleon. The rest of
the Muslim law has not yet been codified in Turkey.

In theory the whole Muslim law is comprised under the
Shenyah or "religious law," and the Sultans had no power
to alter or violate it ; but in their assumed position of
" Khaleefehs," or " Successors of the Prophet," they are
considered as the guardians and interpreters of it, and this
has in practice enabled them to change and modify it, provided
they did not shock the prejudices of the masses. The Sultans
exercised their supreme legislative and executive authority by
means of the Grand Vizier for civil and military affairs, and
the Sheikh ul Islam for religious and spiritual matters, and
especially for the interpretation of the law ; and if a change
in the law was expedient, the chief measure of precaution
necessary was to obtain a favourable " Fetva" from the
Sheikh ul Islam. This was necessary to render any change
valid. If, however, the " Fetva" was refused, the Sultan had
the power of dismissing the refractory " Sheikh ul Islam,"
and thus rendered resistance impossible.

It is a prerogative that has been unsparingly exercised by
the present Sultan, in pursuit of an object — desirable certainly
in theory — but which, if attained, will perhaps only tend to
the dissolution of the empire. I refer to the attempt so per-
sistently made to change the order of succession to the throne.
This, even should it succeed, which seems very doubtful, would
probably excite a civil war amongst the Osmanlis themselves;
and no more plausible excuse for revolt could be afforded to
the half independent Christian States, and the powerful tribu-
taries attached to the Ottoman Empire, than a disputed
succession to the throne.

It is true that before the destruction of the Janissaries
Sultan Mahmoud incurred extreme danger in introducing his
reforms, but since that event the power of the " Ulema" has
been steadily on the decline, and now (1873) even their pro-
perty, the "Vakouf" lands (lands in mortmain), have been
secularised and rendered subject to taxation, which will be of
considerable advantage to the empire and the revenue. So
far as can be seen, the Ottoman Government is now perfectly
unfettered in its progress, nor is it doubtful that a few years

35 S APPENDIX.

will witness a remarkable advance in the civil and legal posi-
tion of the Osmanlis.

The great difficulty will be to apply in practice the liberal
concessions of the Sultans Mahmoud and Abd-el Medjid.
At present this is far from being done. Theoretically, Muslim
and Christian are equal in the eye of the law ; practically,
they are on a very different level, especially in provinces
remote from European observation ! Formerly the oath of a
Christian was never received against a Muslim, and in the
provinces this is still the case wherever there are no Euro-
peans to press the Rayah's right.

Naturally, before the Kadi, who administers only the
Sheriyah (religious law), no Christian evidence is admissible.

" Yourouk" is the general title of the nomads of West and
South-West Asia Minor. What the Yourouks are in that dis-
trict, the Turkmans (who are probably the same race under a
different name) are in Northern and Central Asia Minor. The
great pastoral race of the East and South-East are the Kurds.
Sometimes in the Egyptian cities one may see groups of these
sturdy mountaineers on their way to Mecca, or returning from
their pilgrimage. They are stout, hardy-looking fellows, with
an air of bluff honest barbarism about them most strange to
behold.

They ramble about the streets of Cairo and Alexandria
curiously staring at the wonders of civilised life, clad in
dresses of coarse woollen or goats' hair, each man wearing
his "kepenek," a covering of thick felt, square across the
shoulders, and in shape like a sack, open in front, and with-
out sleeves or collar. It is a special manufacture of Kaisariyeh,
and is indispensable to the shepherds, who are exposed to
extreme variations of temperature, and must remain with
their flocks day and night, and during all weathers.

About the month of May the flocks are driven from the
plains and from the lowlands along the sea coast to the lower
slopes of the mountains, and in proportion as the heat increases
with the advance of summer they mount higher and higher,
till towards the end of August the highest yailas and

APPKXUIX. 359

ridges of the mountains have been reached. At the approach
of winter they gradually descend, finding fresh pasturage in
the districts already traversed in the spring and early summer.
The dry grass in the lowlands supplies sufficient winter forage.
Much of the interior of Caramania, Lycia, Phrygia, and
Lycaonia is only thus accessible in summer, and, indeed,
can never be available for anything else but sheep farming,
&c., as the extreme severity of the climate in winter pre-
vents any settled occupation of these districts. Many of
the tribes are not exclusively pastoral, but have villages
and cultivated lands in the lowlands or in the yailas ; many,
however, are entirely nomad.

Their life seems happy and healthy enough, and some are
in very good circumstances ; but the mischief done by these
wanderers is great. Every year immense tracts of forest are
burnt by them, and their flocks of goats, especially, are most
destructive, preventing the growth of brushwood and young
trees.

Indeed, except for the vast extent of these pastoral districts
and their scanty population, the southern mountains of Asia
Minor would long since have been reduced to the bare and
treeless condition of the Lebanon and its contiguous mountain
ranges.

It would be a great advantage could this nomad life be
checked, and limited to those districts of the empire which
are fitted for this only. Much land that could be cultivated is
occupied by it, and with all its poetical associations, the
pastoral life is but a lower form of civilisation, only half way
between the life of the hunter and the agriculturist.

The intention of the Ottoman Government to farm out the
forests will bring about the most disastrous consequences,
unless, at the same time, stringent regulations be made, and
enforced, as to management, replanting, &c.

The provinces of the Ottoman Empire which have suffered
most severely from the ravages of locusts are Syria and
Cyprus. In the latter, especially, they threatened the utter
desolation of the country, and it was not until they had almost

360 APPENDIX.

ruined the crops for several years in succession, and after im-
mense exertions, that they were destroyed.

The eggs of the locust are deposited in small balls of a
glutinous shining substance, each ball containing on an
average forty sound eggs.

For depositing these balls the insects choose the rough
ground on the tops of low hills, downs, &c., and a fresh
deposit of eggs may be detected by the glitter of the glutinous
envelope ; this, however, soon becomes coated with dust, and
then resembles a small ball of earth.

The eggs are laid about the month of May, and the period
at which the insect commits most ravages is while it is in the
wingless state, just after the eggs are hatched. Its voracity
is then astonishing ; it devours every vegetable thing before
it, even to the bark of the fruit trees, which require years to
recover, so poisonous does the bite of the insect appear to be.

When the locust has passed into the winged state, although
still destructive, it is not so mischievous, and the later crops
do not suifer so much damage from it.

The locusts move about the face of the country in immense
masses, often three miles wide, and half to three-quarters of a
mile deep, always advancing in a straight line, and never
diverging from it, unless they meet an obstacle which they are
unable to surmount. Even water does not stop them, and such
immense numbers spring into the streams that the brooks and
rivers are choked with their putrefying carcases, and drinking
water can only be preserved by carefully covering the wells
and cisterns.

The passage in the prophecy of Joel (ii. 3 — 9) is a most vivid
and exact description of them.

At first the efforts of the authorities in the island were some-
what desultory. Attempts were made to plough up the surface
of the ground where the eggs were laid, and so to destroy
them, but without much success.

Then a reward was offered for the eggs, and later, each pro-
prietor was obliged to deliver one oke of the eggs per annum,
representing one million of locusts. Some of the Governors
displayed much energy and perseverance, but the remissness
of others caused the headway thus painfully gained to be again
lost.

APPENDIX. 361

The most stringent orders came from Constantinople, for of
course the revenue from the island fell off very considerably.
Nothing-, however, was able to stop the plague, until at last a
simple but ingenious method for the destruction of the insects
was invented by Mr. Richard Mattei, and by a persevering
application of it the island was at last freed from this ter-
rible scourge.

It is the habit of the insects to go forward in a direct line,
and if they meet with any insuperable obstacle in their course
they will travel along it for miles, till they find means to go
beyond it.

Accordingly a great number of strips of cotton cloth were
ordered in Glasgow, each of very great length, about three
feet broad, and having a strip of smooth oilcloth, about three
inches in breadth, attached to their upper edge. These cloths
were pitched by means of stakes in the course the swarm of
locusts was about to follow.

The insects could easily mount the cotton cloth, but slipped
back continually from the oilcloth band at the top, and at
length were obliged to take a course either to right or left
along the cloth.

At the ends of the cloths pits were dug ; the cloths were
brought at either end close to the edge of the pit, and a small
screen of tin placed round the pit, so that none of the insects
should pass beyond the cloth. Unable to advance further,
they leaped in great numbers into the pits, which, when full,
were quickly filled in with earth, and the cloths moved forward
to another position prepared in advance.

By perseverance in this method, and by diligently collecting
the eggs, the insects were at length destroyed.

The eggs became at last so scarce that proprietors, in order
to make up the quota they had to furnish, were obliged to
pay men to collect them at the rate of 140 piastres (25s.)
per oke (2f lb.).

"The Mountain System of Lycia."

The interior of Lycia consists of a series of elevated plains
bounded by mountain ranges, which rise almost to Alpine
height, and contain within their folds a great number of

362 APPENDIX.

basin-like hollows of very varying extent-
yailas.

The northern boundary of the province is tl
of Taurus, stretching like the chord of an a
Makri on the west to near Adalia on the ea;
points are Almalu Dagh — above the town o
Kiziljah Dagh, each about 9,000 feet high. A
in the chain valleys occur, which communicate
central plateau of Anatolia ; its eastern ]
Kemer and Kestel Dagh, extends in a north
tion far into the interior, and is traversed by s
ravines forming so many difficult mountain pas

Nearly the whole coast line of Lycia is al
lofty mountains, which in many places rise s
sea beach, and the only breaks in this stony g
a river descends from the loftier ranges of t
forms in its course an alluvial plain, often of
and fertility. In the whole circuit of the L}
there are only four such breaks, viz., the valk
the Xanthus, the gorge of Dembra — near the
— and the plain of Phineka, into which desi
Arycandus, Limyrus, and Allagheer.

The western sea coast is bordered by the rai
and Anticragus — (the " viridis Cragus " of 1
to a height of about 6,000 feet. They are sep;
main mountain system of the province by th
river Xanthus, which flowing nearly north to
by perennial snows, descends in a very full anc
into the sea.

The east side of the Xanthian valley is boun
and wide-spreading mass of Ak Dagh (Ma
and its subordinate ranges. Opposite the towi
the south-west, its highest ridge reaches an ele
10,000 feet.

Fronting Ak Dagh, on the south-east, is

TxrViii^Vi r\e>cir}'\T e^nt^o^c Air T^QrrVi in VlP>10•l^^ o

APPENDIX.

smaller yailas, and one of the larger plains — 1\
Kassaba.

These upland districts form healthy retreats for the ir
ants of the sea coast villages from the stifling hea
malarious air of the coast valleys. During summer
every village has its yaila in the mountains, ar
season for emigration to these grassy basins is antic
with the utmost pleasure by the people.

Soosuz Dagh, on its north-east portion, is connecte
the chain of Bey Dagh, which extends northwards and
eastwards, and is the loftiest mountain on the east j
Lycia. It forms the transition to the mountain chc
Pisidia. Between Bey Dagh and the sea, and borderi
whole east coast, is another range — the " Solymi monte
antiquity — now called Baraket Dagh, Kara Dagh,
Dagh, &c. Its southern peak, Tahtalu Dagh (Olymp
nearly 8,000 feet high, while Bey Dagh exceeds even 1
more than 1,000 feet.

The appearance of these mountains from Adalia i
grand, and their forms and colouring are exquisitely be^

Between Ak Dagh on the west, Soosuz Dagh on the
and Bey Dagh on the east extend the elevated plains
form the yailas of northern Lycia. They are the ph
Almalu, Samary, Karditch, and Stenez; the plain of (
though within the limits of Lycia, does not belong to thi
group. Their northern boundary — to speak in a gener
— is the Lycian Taurus ; and through the plain of Stene
is communication with the great central plateau of An
These great plains are under cultivation, producing fine
of cereals ; most of them are inhabited all the year
Their climate during half the year is severe, though hi
but many of the yailas can only be visited in sumn
account of the snow, and the only communication b
the different districts is over high mountain passes,

364 APPENDIX.

of ancient cities in almost every valley, and even far up on
the terraces which project from the mountain sides.

The geological formation of Lycia is almost entirely of
mountain limestone, but igneous rocks occur in the districts
round Makri and Cibyra, and in a few spots on the south-east
coast. The climate is in general healthy, but during the hot
season the river valleys and sea coast plains are full
of deadly malaria. The population of the interior — exclu-
sively pastoral and agricultural — is either Osmanli or de-
scended from the original races of the land — the few Greek
traders and boatmen being for the most part only found on
the coast. The exports are insignificant, and consist chiefly
of timber and cereals.

" The Famine of 1874 in Asia Minor."

The awful famine now raging in part of the interior of
Anatolia and Caramania is a sad proof how precarious are
the conditions of existence under which the Turkish peasantry
lives.

The country in question may be defined by imaginary lines,
drawn from Angora to Koniah on the west, from Koniah to
Nigdeh on the south, from Nigdeh to Tokat on the east, and
from Tokat to Angora on the north, comprising an extent of
40,000 square miles, or about two-thirds the area of England
and Wales. It consists of fertile plains and valleys, alter-
nating with very extensive pasture grounds (the high mountain
ranges are few and far apart), which support vast numbers of
cattle, sheep, and goats. One great source of livelihood for
its inhabitants is the " teftik," or hair of the Angora goat.
These resources, with a very rich supply of fruit, used to yield
a suflBcient subsistence to a population sober, peaceful,
industrious, and relatively scanty — in spite of the hea\y taxa-
tion and many other burdens the Turkish peasant has to
bear.

But now all this district is under the pressure of a frightful
famine, and {Levant Herald, August 19th) the deaths from
actual starvation and the diseases resulting from it are stated

APPENDIX. 365

as being — up to the present time (August, 1874) — not less than
150,000 !

During the spring and summer of 1873 little or no rain fell
over the whole interior, and the crops almost entirely failed
from the drought. It was evident that before the harvest of
1874 t:ould be gathered in there would be great suffering,
therefore this appalling calamity did not come upon the
country without warning. Alas ! the reality has far surpassed
all anticipations. Yet almost nothing was done by the Otto-
man Government in view of the coming visitation : no stores
were formed ; no food imported ; no means of transport
organised ; no restriction laid upon the export of grain from
the doomed districts. Political economy may disapprove the
last measure, but the same rule will not apply to Turkey under
its present Government and India under British rule ! Of
course when the imminence of famine was plain it was too
late to think of road making ; but it is exactly in points like
this that these Oriental Governments sin. Had Persia been
provided with roads, the late famine there and its horrors
would have been greatly mitigated ; and it is not too much to
say that had there been a good railway traversing Anatolia
the present terrible suffering and loss of life might even have
been almost prevented, for there are provinces in the neigh-
bourhood of this suffering district where the harvest is far
beyond the needs of their people, only there are no means of
bringing the food to the starving multitudes. But so it is ; the
very plainest duties of a Government are neglected, and we
see the consequences ; and even now, though a few desultory
efforts are being made, nothing worthy of the emergency —
nothing statesmanlike — is being done by those in whose hands
are the destinies of the empire. I state this on the best
authority from Constantinople.

The calamity of a failure in the harvest was terrible enough,
but it was followed by a winter (1873-4) of such exceptional
severity that nothing like it has been known in the Levant for
over fifty years. The snow-fall over all southern Europe, over
the mountain ranges of northern Africa, throughout Asia
Minor, the Archipelago, and Syria was unprecedented ; snow
even lay upon some of the mountains on the upper portion of
the Red Sea.

366 APPENDIX.

Sad tales reached Egypt of the suffering of the mountain
villages in Syria, the Lebanon, and Crete ; communication
was utterly cut off by the snow, and whole families perished
of cold and hunger. But this was far exceeded by what was
going on amongst the poor Turkish peasants, and when the
tardy spring at last came the extent of their losses began to
appear. It is calculated that about a million and a half of sheep
and gouts and an enormous number of cattle had perished.
Thus their one great means of subsistence was cut off, Then
followed the rapid and utter destitution of the people. The
woodwork of their houses had been used up as fuel in the winter,
or sold to buy bread afterwards ; their poor household furni-
ture followed ; the price of food rose continually ; the deaths
from starvation became awfully numerous, and nothing was
left but wholesale emigration from the villages into the larger
towns, where there might still be a chance of life !

Such is the present state of matters. The country is
depopulated ; an eye-witness (one of whose letters is given
below) states that of six large villages he passed in one par-
ticular district — within a distance of twenty-one miles — five
were without an inhabitant ; the sixth had only three families
remaining ; and wherever he went he found matters as bad,
excepting in the large towns, where some little is being done
by the authorities to mitigate this awful national calamity.
This gentleman travelled over a large portion of the famine
area while engaged in distributing some of the relief fund
from British subscribers, and his report of the future prospects
of the people is most gloomy.

The last of his letters is subjoined ; one of its closing sen-
tences is very ominous, at a time when the plague is showing
itself once more in the Levant, after an abeyance of many
years !

From the Levant Herald, July 29, 1874.

Sir, — In previous letters I have spoken of the fearful famine that
has so suddenly blighted a large portion of Asia Minor, also of the
efforts that are being made to relieve the sufferers. The most interest-
ing and by far the most important question is — What aid must be
given, and for how long a time must that aid be continued, in order to

APPENDIX. 367

save these people and restore them again to their position as producers ?
Most naturally we think of them simply as destitute of bread. It is
true that they are so, and it is a terrible fact ; and yet this does not
nearly cover the case. Were their flocks and herds left they might
recover themselves, but these are almost totally destroyed. The mor-
tality has been much greater in the districts that I have passed through
than in the Angora and Koniah and other districts reported in your
columns. In the little village of Saru Hamzalu, out of more than 1,600
sheep and goats, just one sheep and one goat remain, as I was assured
wlien there, and of 100 cows two remain. In the village of Arslan
Hadjili, in the Salman district, from a flock of 1,200 sheep and goats,
there are reported 8, and from another flock, in the same village, num-
bering 800, of which 700 were mohair goats, the same number, 8, is
reported. These figures are more alarming than are those of the tax
list, but unfortunately they are true. The error of the tax list comes in
this way ; the new list was made early in March, long before the end of
the fearful winter. Many sheep and goals died after that list was
made.

But these people are not only destitute of food and of flocks : they
have no growing grain. When I started on my recent tour, June 6th,
I supposed that the great thing would be to tide over the next two
months. I still see that this is a difficult task, but I see very clearly
what is far worse, viz., that the trouble is not to end, scarcely to be
ameliorated, when the next harvest comes in. In ail the regions that I
have passed through, very little has been sown. The autumn was un-
favourable and the early snows prevented late sowing. Before the
fearful winter ended the seed was eaten and the oxen had died, so that
the spring found the people helpless and destitute. Hence the mass of
them saved nothing, and the harvest can bring them nothing.

But these three items, fearful as they are, do not show the fullness of
the destitution. Multitudes of these people have no houses to live in.
They have, in some cases, torn them down with their own hands. In
other cases they have sold them, and that for almost nothing. In many
instances they have been destroyed by others, since they were left, and
the winter must find them without any shelter.

It will be remembered that very many of these people — that is, nearly
all those who have left their homes — have sold the last copper-dish, the
last bed, the last blanket ; so that, were there to be an abundant harvest,
and were prices to fall to the lowest figures reached in many years,
still they would find it impossible to buy. The question may arise, Can
they not work and thus secure a living ? Yes, if anybody can be found
to employ them ; but who will or who can do that ? It was hoped
that the Government might employ some 15,000 or 20,000 on the great

368 APPENDIX.

railroad that was to be constructed through this region from Angora
to Cesarea. Such a number, employed at a reasonable remuneration,
would have furnished a living to 50,000 souls or even more ; but this
work is not begun, and not one in twenty of the starving men can hope
to find any employment by which they may secure a piece of bread in
the next twelve months.

I am sorry to present so dark a picture, but the whole is not yet told.
The prospect for the coming harvest is not good. We have said that
the people who have been driven from their homes have no growing
grain. Their brethren who have managed to keep a foothold in their
villages are scarcely better off. In very few of the villages now suffer-
ing from the famine has one-half of the usual amount been sown, and
the average of the whole region passed over in this journey, 384 miles,
must be less than one-fourth as much as is usually sown. But still
woxse, that which is sown will not give a good yield. In the Salman
district up to June 15th there had been no rains, and the crop must
be almost a perfect failure. In other regions the grain suffered much
from the severity of the winter. In the whole distance from Nigdeh to
Cesarea we saw scarcely a dozen fields that would be called ordmarily
good. In nearly all this region the grain is very thin. When seen at
a distance it looks well, but nearer inspection shows that a man must
thrust in his sickle several times to fill his hand. The weather is
favourable and it is confidently hoped that it will fill well, but, at best,
the yield in all this section of the country must be far below the imme-
diate demands of the population, and there is no old grain, as there was
last year, to supply the deficit.

In a very large proportion of this region fruit, and especially grapes,
forms an important element in the income of the people. This year,
though we do not say that there is "no fruit in the vine," we fear
there will be little. In some places the vines were greatly injured by
the severity of the winter. In others, the people, driven from their
homes by the severity of the famine, have left their vines unpruned and
entirely uncultivated, and the yield must be very imperfect. In other
cases, as at Everak, the grapes have been seriously injured by late frosts,
while in others, as at Nigdeh, the crop has been partially destroyed by
hail.

• It is evident that a famine so wide in extent and of such severity as
to be a great national calamity has visited this land. No one who has
not seen this region can fully appreciate the evil. Facts that are stated
in this and preceding letters demonstrate the truth that we are not near
the end, but rather that the very worst is "to be feared. Many thousands
have already perished. Thousands moie are suffering the extremes of
hunger, and the number of the sufferers, as would naturally be expected,

APPENDIX. 369

increases rapidly. Many arc destitute now who had a httlc flour or the
means of buying a little bread a week ago. The area covered by the
famine is increasing. We have said that, when compared with Yozgat,
Soongoorloo, and other places, Cesarea and the surrounding towns can
hardly be said to be touched by the famine. I am sorr}' to say that
since writing that, I have learned of very severe suffering in our very
midst. 1 learn that in one of our finest Greek villages a woman
(resident) has perished from hunger within a few days.

The extent of this calamity is so vast that all means which any
benevolent individuals may be able to command seem as nothing when
compared with the relief actually needed. Nothing but an efficient,
steady, and long-continued beneficence on the part of the Government
can preserve the lives of very many thousands, or prevent a large dis-
trict of the empire being nearly depopulated. Not only does humanity
protest against such a result, but political economy is alarmed at the
mere pecuniary evil. Keskin has furnished the national treasury- with
some j^T.26,000 annually. If the loss is so much from that little dis-
trict (it really ought to pay nothing this year), what must be the amount
in all the 40,cxx) square miles covered by the famine }

This population may be saved and all these districts may again
become productive, but nothing but a tremendous and well sustained
effort on the part of the Government can secure such results. The
work begun by one mutesarrif, viz., collecting the vagrants and send-
ing them to their homes, feeding them on the way, can secure the
speedy repeopling of the country. Once at their homes, they must be
fed till the harvest of 1875. Even this would avail little unless seed
corn and working oxen be furnished them so that they can sow in the
coming autumn. Besides all these, they must be helped to clothing,
beds, and other necessary things, or many will die from exposure.
They are now fit to become a prey to any epidemic.

While private beneficence stands appalled before so vast a necessity,
it still becomes all truly benevolent people to do what they can to
relieve this suffering. 1 gladly improve this opportunity to express my
most hearty thanks and the thanks of my associates to our English and
American friends in Constantinople and elsewhere, who have furnished
us with ;^T.I50 to aid these sufferers. This help has caused many a
starving soul to rejoice. — I am, &c.,

Cesarea, July 7. W. A. FARNSWORTH.

B B

370

APPENDIX.

ROUTE FROM ADALIA TO MAKRI.

t to us by the Kadi of Khonas — Direct Route— CameVs Pace. )

Adalia to Yenijah Khan

. . 6 hours.

Yenijah Khan to Keklijik

. . 2 „

Keklijik to Stenez

..4 ».

Stenez to Almalu

.. 8 „

Almalu to the Giuubeli Pass . .

..6 „

Giuubeli Pass to Seydeleer

..2 ,,

Seydeleer to Bulle Khana

.. 8 „

BuUe Khana to Kemer . .

..6 „

Kemer to Makri . .

..7 M

Karajuk to Kajadibi

. . 8 hours.

Kajadibi to Buldour

..6 „

Buldour to Isbarta

..5 ,.

Isbarta to Aghlasun

..4 »

Aghlasun to Boyama . ,

..8 „

Boyama to Adalia

..10 „

ROUTES GIVEN TO US AT ADALIA.

Adalia to Yenijah Khan . . . . . . . . i day.

Yenijah Khan to Stenez . .

Stenez to Almalu . .

Almalu to Armootli (or even farther) . .

Armootli to Arssa

Arssa to Teep

Teep to Makri

Adalia to Yenijah Khan . . . . . . . . i day.

Yenijah Khan to Almalu . . . , . . . . 2 ,,

Almalu to Makri {via Oorlujah and Orahn) . . 3 ,,

Adalia to Kemer, along seaside
Kemer to Tchiraghy

10 hours
4 ,.

APPENDIX.

371

TIME-TABLE ON OUR JOURNEY.
(Easy pacCy and allowing time for rest at intervals.)

1872.

P.M.

A.M.

April 24.-

— Aidin

330

April 28

— Denizli

9-25

Kavakli Caf6 . .

4.15

Laodicea . .

10.30

Imam Keui . .

4.26

P.M.

Sek-keui . .

450

Left it . . . .

1.50

Emir Dukhan . .

4-55

Crossed the Lycus

2.48

Oomourlu

5.10

Hierapolis

3.30

Kiouschk,.

6.15

(Night came on.)

Nazli

11.50

April 29

. — Hierapolis.

A.M.

April 25.-

— Nazli

8.15

April 30

. — Hierapolis

6.30

Mseander bridge
Ali Aga Tchift-

10.10

Fountain Karagu]
Ghirlani . .

6.56

7-3

lik . . . .

11.30

Eldenizli . .

7.18

Yenikeui . .

P.M.

4-15

Crossed the Lycus
Colossae . .

8.40
10.50

KaraSoo..

7.15

Left the Mill . .

P.M.

A.M.

1.23

April 26.

—Kara Soo . .
Geera

6.55
8.30

Khonas . .

2.15

P.M.

A.M.

Left Geera

12.20

May I.-

-Khonas

7.25

Tcham Beli Cafe

4-50

Foot of Kazik Pass

9.0

Top of the Pass

5-45

P.M.

Foot of Pass . .

6.35

Karajuk

4-5

Kara Hissar . .

8.30

A.M.

April 27.

—Kara Hissar . .

6.15

May 2.-

-Karajuk

7.26

Makuf

6.45

Auschar

7.47

Kizilja Bolouk

8.10

Geunahi

9-7

Sara Ova . .

9-45

Guard-house on

P.M.

Eschler Yailas

10. 15

Caf6 at foot of

P.M.

Seiteen Yailas

I.O

Kajadeveh . .

1.52

Left the Caf6 . .

Satilar

2-5

Denizli

7-30

Karaatlu

2.35

372

APPENDIX.

A.M.

May 3.— Karaatlu .. .. 6.5

Naulo 8-5

Yarishli .. •• 8.25

^ Left it 929

Yarakeui .. .. H-S^

P.M.

Left it 12.30

Cafe on Lake of

Buldour .. .. 3-12
Buldour .. .. 5-0

May 8.— Girmeh
Boujak.

May 4. — Buldour
Singur . .
Guschla
Eski Yerrah ,
Teh art chin ,
Yaila in the hills ,

Lawuz
Sparta

A.M.

8.25
8.55

9-35
9.40

9-54
11.9

P.M.
2.20

3-H

May 9.—

-Boujak

Kovajik

May 10

— Kovaj

Khan(

Bog

Aterai

Left it

Adali;

May 5.— Sparta.

May 6.— Sparta

Dere Maalleh
Cafe at top of Pass
over Aghlasun
Dagh .. ..

Aghlasun . .

A.M.

7-30
7.40

9-55

P.M.
12.10

A „V,1,

A.M.
6. 50

May II. — Adali

Kepe
Uzura
Yenij

May 12.— Yenij
ist ai
hoi
2nd c
1st ^^
Tern
Left
Yeni
Ca
Left

APPENDIX.

May 13. — Soosuz

Mill in the
Almalu

A.M.

. . . 8.0
P.M.

plain i.o
. . . 6.0

May 14.

-Almalu
Tchobansa

P.M.
6.0

May 15. — Tchobansa
Yaila .. .
Douroular .

Yalinli
Souood

A.M.

6.15

745
9-30

P.M.

2.0

5-30

May 16. — Souood

Top of Pass
Baindir

Tchandir . .
OsmanKalfeler.
Horzoom . .

A.M.

8.0

8.36

10.35
P.M.

3-30

4.48
6.12

May 17. — Horzoom ..
Yussuftcha

A.M.

11.30

P.M.
12.36

May 1 7 — Foot of Pass
Bedrebey . .

May 18. — Bedrebey . .

Top of D(

Pass
Koziltchaor!
Uzoumbounj

May 19. — Uzoumbounj
Halt at ]

Harpasus
Tchali Keui

Tcham Beli
Kara Soo . .

May 20. — Kara Soo
Nazli . .

May 21. — Nazli ..
Aidin . .

r>r\TTn-«T7 /-mvt r\TTrt t/^ttd MTTxr T70MA/T APPTT

374

APPENDIX.

Apri!

27.

>»

28.-

29.-

»>

30.-

May

I.-

>»

2.-

3.-

4--

5--

6.-

»>

7.-

8.-

9.-

10.-

II.-

12.-

>•

13.-

>»

14.-

15.-

16-

17.-

18.-

>»

19.

20.-

21.

»>

22.

-Kara Hissar to Denizli (on horseback).

-Denizli to Laodicea and Hierapolis

-Hierapolis

-Hierapolis to Khonas

-Khonas to Karajuk

-Karajuk to Karaatlu

-Karaatlu to Buldour

-Buldour to Sparta

-Sparta

-Sparta to Aghlasun

-Aghlasun to Girmeh

-Girmeh to Boujak

-Boujak to Kovajik

-Kovajik to Adalia

-Adalia to Yenijah Khan Caf6

-Yenijah Khan Cafe to Termessus and Soosuz

-Soosuz to Almalu

-Almalu to Tchobansa

-Tchobansa to Souood

-Souood to Horzoom

-Horzoora to Bedrebey

-Bedrebey to Uzoumbounar

-Uzoumbounar to Kara Soo

-Kara Soo to Nazli

-Nazli to Aidin

-Aidin to Smyrna (by railway).

THE END.

LONDON : GRANT AND CO., PRINTERS, TURNMILL STREET, B.C.

University of British Columbia Library

DUE DATE

ET-6

UNIVERSITY OF B C I IBRARY

3 9424 0

976 9667

APR Z ~ 1904.S
J/\rJ 7- 1930

><.

mi}' university of
- british
Columbia

•Wv,t'.7

'Hv:ii.^::i;j:"^;<^:

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